Ponferrada -Peñalba de Santiago- Montes

This was a tough but exhilarating day. 27 km and 1200 m up — I think that’s the most elevation I’ve done yet. Actually it was a couple of steep rocky descents that almost got me, but I did fine with my poles and going very slowly. One water crossing had a lot of very fast moving water, but luckily it was not that high at the space I had to cross.

The trail started out through vineyards and fields, and then switched to forests. The last part was mountainous and rocky. It was a great combination.

My first destination was the beautiful little pueblo of Peñalba de Santiago. It was one of the last places to get electricity and paved roads in all of Spain, I believe. The houses are stone, with slate roofs, sometimes lots of flowers, sometimes wooden balconies. And there in the middle sits a 10 century Mozarabic church. It has horseshoe arches just like Santo Tomás yesterday, and a recent restoration revealed some original frescoes. One side of one doorway has some beautiful calligraphy, written in what I am assuming is Latin.

I had a long stop in this town, meeting the man who runs a small Albergue here, and also getting my Kas de Limón fix in the small bar in town.

Then came the last 8 km or so, starting out with a very steep and rocky climb to a field with a maze laid out in tiny stones. But it was the descent that was the piece de resistance. Incredibly rocky and steep, with frequent water crossings, and signs that I was walking in Roman canals. Though it’s hard to believe, for me at least, the Romans transported water from here to 24 km away where they had a gold mine whose remains I will visit tomorrow.

My destination for tonight was the monastery of San Pedro in Montes De Valdueza. Though the monastery is pretty much in ruins, the local church authorities opened a small Albergue here, not so much for people walking to Santiago but more for the many people who walk in these mountains. The woman who is in charge lives in town, and she gave me the keys to the monastery! I can’t get into the church though, unfortunately. Because I am a Pilgrim, she will bring me my dinner and fixings for breakfast. It’s kind of weird being the only person in this big place, but tomorrow night there are going to be 70 mountaineers here, and I think I prefer being alone!

I dodged a bullet and had only a few sprinkles on the last couple of kilometers into town. It’s raining now, and the forecast is that it will continue. But maybe I’ll be lucky tomorrow like I was today.Read more