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Laurie Reynolds
Laurie Reynolds

Laurie Reynolds

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  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018Laurie Reynolds

    Osteria dei Sapori -- Salerno

    3 janvier 2019, Italie ⋅ 🌙 2 °C

    So if you dream of eating in a non-touristy, small, family-run osteria in Italy, this is the place for you. In a 7-table place, with food options written on a piece of paper, we were the only foreigners over the two hours we were there. The entire operation took place in one small room. Dad was the cook, mom his assistant, daughter did everything else (except wash the dishes—there was a woman over in the corner continuously washing and drying). The food was excellent, the family so hospitable, and even with the most expensive bottle of wine at 25 euros, our bill was 80 euros. And that was with two courses each, and one dessert.

    Very nice way to end our stay here.    En savoir plus

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  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018Laurie Reynolds

    Paestum!!! Wow!!!

    3 janvier 2019, Italie ⋅ ⛅ 4 °C

    One half hour, 2.90 euros each way, and the Regionale train takes you to Paestum, the ruins of a Greek city from about 5th century BC. Three large temples remain intact, with the residential area, forum, baths,theater in ruins. One of the temples is roped off, but you can walk throuh the other two. Amazing.

    We had bright sunny, cold weather (in fact, on the way back to the train, a few snowflakes started to fall). Crowds were very moderate —two big groups of American college students, one tour bus of Italians, and about 50 others like Joe and I, straggling along on our own.

    The museum had many artifacts from graves, and some of the painted grave slabs themselves, including one that appears to be quite famous, The Diver. Lots of urns, statues of gods and goddesses, with very nice information panels, in both Italian and English for a change.There was a short video about the Allies´ WWII invasion, Operation Avalanche, which took place near Paestum. The Brits brought their own archaeologist, and while constructing an airstrip, an ancient burial site was found (by ancient, I mean really ancient, like Iron Age). He documented it all, excavated and tagged all artifacts. Turned them over to the Napples Archaeological authorities at the end of the war. The film ended with a comment along the lines of — it is a treasure for humanity that the British realized that preserving ancient history was just as important as winning the war.

    This is the end of the planned trip. When I was buying the plane tickets, it seemed like a shame to get on a plane in Rome without spending some time there. So we have a hotel reservation for four nights, an old Michelin Rome guide from our 1995 trip with the kids, and a recent 36 Hours in Rome article. Just hoping to have good weather for walking and short lines in front of whatever we decide to visit.    En savoir plus

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  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018Laurie Reynolds

    Moving on to Salerno

    2 janvier 2019, Italie ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    Salerno is not exactly a highly renowned tourist stop, but it is the easternmost point of the Amalfi Coast and a convenient way to get up to Rome. And there are some very highly recommended Greek temples about an hour from here, so we decided to make Salerno a stop. It has a huge port and an ancient centro historico. The Allies invaded Italy here, but unfortunately the small museum documenting the event was closed.

    The bus ride from Amalfi to Salerno was another one of those 90 minute rides to go 25 kms. This time we had several points where two buses met head on and there was simply no way for them to maneuver. It involved backing up, stopping traffic, and eventually squeezing by with only inches to spare. The ride was beautiful, but there is no way in the world I would want to drive it — the bus was scary enough.

    In Salerno, we found our little B and B in the old town and were out and about in plenty of time for lunch. At Mamma Rosa’s, we found ourselves in with lots of regular diners. A very popular place, Mamma Rosa is still there, and her quote on the wall is “I love cooking more than anything except my children.” Watching her interact with what must have been her grandkids gave credence to that quote.

    Afternoon was spent at the amazing 11th century cathedral, where the apostle Matthew is buried (the apostle Andrew is in Amalfi, so this must be a popular area for apostles). The mosaics were gorgeous.

    Then to the archaeological museum, where the 2nd century BC bronze head of Apollo was the standout.

    We are in a weird little place, picked because it is about 4 minutes from Novella Fitness, where I was able to use the elliptical for a mere 7 euros! Dinner in another totally crammed and popular place, Irys, where they had just run out of red wine (in Italy?!) but the food was very good.    En savoir plus

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  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018Laurie Reynolds

    Architecture, Music, and a Hike

    1 janvier 2019, Italie ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    What a very nice way to start 2019– first, a visit to the cathedral (unfortunately the stunning romanesque facade was not matched with a similar interior — on orders of some king, the whole inside got a baroque make-over). St. Andrew is buried here, and his remains are reported to undergo a similar annual miracle as San Gennaro in Naples — instead of his blood liquifying, it is some substance that oozes out of the container of his remains. Rather grotesque, actually, but I get the role that faith plays in these things and in the lives of the congregants.

    Then a surprise — a chamber orchestra playing all sorts of music in a free concert inside the basilica. Our favorites were the various opera pieces — all very well known, from Carmen, Merry Widow, Granada, a few more. We enjoyed it a lot.

    From there, time to walk. Up, up, up again, just as high as yesterday, but to another town, Pontone, which looks across a gorge at Ravello. In Pontone, luckily, we found an unexceptional pizzeria open, so Joe could sit and eat while I went on to the Torre dello Ziro, and up to the ruined church of Sant Eustacio. Unfortunately, the site was closed —I would really have liked to see the apse up close.

    Back down just as the sun was setting — time to think about dinner options. Lots of restaurants seem to be closed, but there are crowds in the square outside our room again, enjoying more folklore. I am pretty sure there will not be late night concerts, at least I am hoping that’s the case!    En savoir plus

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  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018Laurie Reynolds

    Happy 2019!

    31 décembre 2018, Italie ⋅ 🌬 12 °C

    Very good dinner in the little enoteca, though we could have stopped eating after the antipasti. But I guess it is a night for wretched excess.

    It is a very good thing we squeezed in a few hours’ nap before the fireworks, because the concert in the square went on till 4 or 5. I didn’t even bother to look at my watch when it finally ended, I was just so relieved to hear the silence.

    At about 11:30, we awoke to the sound of traditional music, and followed a long procession of music-makers in traditional dress out to the beach. Then the fireworks (they were super!), with a return procession to the cathedral. At that point, the traditional music gave way to loud loud loud. First a live band (I was so happy to hear someone say what sounded like “last song” in Italian, only to realize that it was just the last live song and. a DJ had taken over). Though I wouldn’t say I reallly enjoyed the music, it was fun to see the square filled with so many others who were.

    I woke up around 8, to another day of brilliant sunshine, and was surprised to see that though the light and sound equipment was still up, the square was spotless. Amalfi takes its public places very seriously.    En savoir plus

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  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018Laurie Reynolds

    Up to Ravello

    31 décembre 2018, Italie ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    Ravello is about 4 km and 500 m up, a good aerobic walk! So I walked while Joe took the bus. We met up top and after the obligatory cappucino, we visited the Cathedral (some beautiful mosaics) and the Villa Rufolo (an old hodge podge of buildings from the XII century onward, bought by a rich guy and restored in the 19th century— the main attraction was the VIEWS!!!). Absolutely gorgeous views from up there.

    Trying to get good information on bus options down was nearly impossible, since it is New Year’s Eve. So a group of 8 piled into a cab and in a few minutes we were back in Amalfi.

    All of the restaurants are booked with gala dinners, so we have found a little enoteca that will feed us some dinner as long as we are out by 9:30. We hope to see the fireworks from the seaside promenade, but I fear that thousands of others will have the same idea!

    Wishing everyone a very Happy New Year!    En savoir plus

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  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018Laurie Reynolds
    3

    Moved over to Amalfi

    30 décembre 2018, Italie ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    A 20 mile trip from Sorrento to Amalfi takes 90 minutes on the bus — but don’t think you’d get there any faster driving it yoursef. The road twists and turns and twists again, along the coast. Since we already had visited Positano from Sorrento, we just stayed on the bus all the way to the charming, but VERY busy, town of Amalfi. If this is the off-season, I hate to think what it looks like in summer, but I am sure there is a burst of tourists between Christmas and New Years.

    We’re in an old hotel on the main square, with a view over the 12th century duomo (cathedral). That became a less attractive location when we learned there will be an all night party in the square tomorrow. (There’s another folkloric concert on the steps of the cathedral as I write, but it ends at 7 pm!). I knew about and was looking forward to the fireworks on the water, but had no idea that the concerts would begin after that. I should have brought my ear plugs from my Camino bag, I guess. Well, we hadn’t planned to do much on Jan. 1 anyway.

    This afternoon we visited an old paper-making factory, and by old, I mean 13th century old. Paper made of cotton fibers, not wood pulp. We saw the original pulp-making machine, as well as the 15th century newer version, as well as the 18th century one, all powered by water. They coated it in gelatin made from rabbit to make it less absorbent. And then hung it to dry for months!    En savoir plus

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  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018Laurie Reynolds

    Chill-axing in Sorrento

    29 décembre 2018, Italie ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    So while one of us went early to the fitness center, the other slept till about 9. Our lazy breakfast, with TWO cappuccinos, made us one of the last to leave the breakfast room. Then we walked and walked and enjoyed the port, the old town, the many Nativity scenes, and of course another coffee.

    At around 2:30, I deposited Joe in an old cafe with good panini and gelato, and I left him there while I went to the laundromat. Very efficient, and we are now set for the second half of the trip. Then more strolling along the water. There are some very fancy hotels with lovely verandas and views. Since no one seemed to mind our presence, we enjoyed seeing how the other half enjoys Sorrento.

    One last dinner here tonight. We have had three excellent meals, in Tasso, La Favorita, and Zi’Antonio, and are hoping for one more. Great fish and pasta in all three!    En savoir plus

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  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018Laurie Reynolds

    To Herculaneum

    28 décembre 2018, Italie ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    Back on the 9:37 commuter train, this time to Herculaneum. This is a much smaller place than Pompeii, it was basically a residential town for about 20,000 people. This city was covered in lava, not volcanic ash like Pompeii. Lots of small shops, not much grandiosity, lots of homes with their peristyles and frescoed chambers. The saddest thing was the old boat huts down by what used to the beach. Many people rushed to take cover there, and the skeletons are left just as they were found. We enjoyed it very much, and this time had thought to bring fruit and nuts, yoghurt, oranges, and some chocolate (which is what I always carry on the camino, coincidentally!). Of course, wouldn’t you know it, this time there was a little cafe right there, but no way was I going to lug the food back to the hotel.

    Since Herculaneum is so much smaller, we had seen about everything after about 3 1/2 hours and decided to get the 3:15 train back to Sorrento. Clever travelers that we are, we had no idea that more than one line ran on those tracks, and sure enough, we got on the wrong train. I noticed the mistake about three stops later, and learned that we would have to get off and go back. No big deal, except that for some reason, the next train was cancelled, but we finally rolled into Sorrento around 6 pm instead of our hoped-for 4 pm! But hey, it’s not every day that you can stand and wait in dusk with Vesuvius in the background! Luckily, I had my book, Americanah (loving it), to keep me occupied!

    Well, that will just make for a late dinner, and since tomorrow is a “rest day” (another familiar camino technique) we can sleep in and lollygag around Sorrento.    En savoir plus

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  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018Laurie Reynolds

    Day in Pompeii

    27 décembre 2018, Italie ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

    Today’s destination was about a half hour from Sorrento on the commuter train, the Circumvesuviana. We were inside the ruins by around10:30 and didn’t leave till the 4:17 return train home. So it was a long day, many miles of walking no doubt, from the foro to the Villa Misteri with its beautiful frescoes of a young girl being inducted into a forbidden cult, to the amphitheater, through temples, baths, bars, markets, we walked and walked and walked! Rick Steves got my admiration again, since we used his podcast walking tour and it was very good, chock full of information, and easy to follow. Only negative was that by the time we were hungry, we were a long way from the only open restaurant (having followed signs to another one that was locked up tight,grrrr.) So our lunch consisted of bananas, oranges, and some old American Airlines cookies I found in the bottom of my pack!

    We will reward outselves with a good dinner in about an hour. Great day, beautiful weather.    En savoir plus

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  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018Laurie Reynolds

    To Sorrento

    26 décembre 2018, Italie ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    We moved over to Sorrento for the next few days and will visit Pompeii and Herculaneum from here. Much easier and less hectic.

    So by 11, we were in our hotel. The room wouldn’t be ready for a few hours, and since it was a gorgeous day, we hopped on a bus to Positano. It’s the first major town on the Amalfi Coast. Wow wow wow. Just gorgeous. Nothing much to do except walk and eat, and luckily we enjoy both those things.

    Tomorrow Pompeii.    En savoir plus

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  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018Laurie Reynolds

    Christmas Day in Napoli

    25 décembre 2018, Italie ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    For the last four days, we have turned left when leaving our hotel, and have explored the Greek, Roman, and medieval part of Naples. Turns out that if your turn right,you will jump ahead a few centuries and find yourself on 19th century promenades along the sea with 12th century castles guarding the harbor. We visited the San Carlos opera house, the fascist looking Piaza dei Plebescito, and then the glorious promenade, with Vescuvius on one side and many happy Neapolitan families on the other, all enjoying the fabulous Christmas Day weather.

    We even took a quick detour to Piazza dei Martiri, the place where Lila’s shoe store is located in the Ferrante books. And guess what, there is a fancy shoe store named Ferrante near the square. I assume that is where the author got her nom de plume, very mysterious.

    We had a fancy Christmas meal in an old hotel along the ocean. Some forced formality, but all in all a delicious meal. Best lasagna I have ever eaten — with porcini mushrooms and truffles; and the desserts were pretty awesome too.

    Sorry to say that we are leaving Naples tomorrow, heading to Sorrento. From all accounts, it is sanitized and tourist-trap-py, but its location makes it a good spot for visiting Pompeii and Herculaneum.

    The receptionist in our hotel tells us that Rick Steves has told people not to go to Naples. I personally think that that one comment, if true, disqualifies him as an “Italy expert.”

    Merry Christmas one and all!    En savoir plus

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  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018Laurie Reynolds

    On the boat to Ischia

    24 décembre 2018, Italie ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    No churches and no museums today. We took about an hour ferry ride to the island of Ischia, Capri’s poor relation. But it figures prominently in Elena Ferrante’s books, so I wanted to visit. Anyway, we are probably more Ischia types than Capri types. We spent the day walking — on the sand, on a promenade, through the main town. We went a couple of kms to a huge “castle on a rock.” Called the Castelo Aragonés, it has a history going back to 500 BC, but the current buildings are from the 16th -17th century. Nothing much to walk through, but it is a pretty impressive complex from outside.

    One thing I was not prepared for was the mobs of young people out in their finest, drinking and smoking in the street next to the bars. We had to push our way through crowds of kids as we went down the row of restaurants along the port looking for something without blaring music. We finally found one — the restaurant at the very tip was relatively quiet and had space for us. But then we had to push our way back through to get to the dock for our boat home. Everyone was very jolly and celebratory, but I was surprised because I thought Christmas was more of a close family celebration in Italy.

    Home by 7, and happy to see that we had apparently missed a serious rainfall because of all the puddles. There are apparently a few restaurants open along the main drag a few minutes away, so we will cross our fingers and head out.

    Merry Christmas to everyone, it has been great to Facetime with grandkids and hope to do more of that tomorrow!    En savoir plus

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  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018Laurie Reynolds

    Churches and street food

    23 décembre 2018, Italie ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    So, somehow I deleted this post, but I will try again. Today was a day of churches, including the Duomo (16-18th century cathedral, with its far more interesting 4th century baptistry with its ancient mosaics)), the chapel of San Severo (where a sculptor figured out how to make veils over bodies with one piece of marble, and a visit to the Contemporary Art Museum and its exhibit of Maplethorpe photos (the rest of the installations were the kind of thing unitiatated people like me would say things like —my grandkids could do this!). We walked for miles and miles, eating a lot of street food, and having lunch at a recommended place where people shouted and gesticulated to get what they wanted. As you might imagine, it took us a long time.

    We are thoroughly enjoying Naples, and recommend it to people who are not looking for prettified places to go.    En savoir plus

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  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018Laurie Reynolds
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    Saturday before Christmas in Naples

    22 décembre 2018, Italie ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Before falling into the moving masses through the old quarter, we decided to get our culture in first. First stop, the Palace (now Art Museum) way up high in Capodimonte. I think I will be fine if I never go through another Bourbon palace (Though the grand piano playing in the ballroom was very pretty), but it was nice to see those familiar Carlos-es who were also king of Spain. Even a couple of Goyas. Carvaggio, Titian, El Greco, Breughel, lots of madonnas and saints. Titian’s portraits of the pope Paul III were probably my favorites, and then way up on the fourth floor hidden away — Andy Warhol’s Vesuvius erupting!

    From there we walked down to the Catacombs of San Gennaro, patron saint of Naples. Even though he was not from Naples, when he made Vesuvius stop erupting, he became their patron. His bones have moved around a bit, but we saw their original 4th century resting place. Graves were from 3rd century onward, till sometime in the middle ages, when a church edict required all bodies to be moved because they were too close to the growing city. San Gennaro’s blood miraculously liquifies three times a year at special masses, but the church has not allowed for scientific examination.

    All cultured out, we walked back down to the historic center, a mad crush of people shopping and eating. Street food is sold at least every ten feet in one stall or another. Joe had a very delicious pistacchio canolo. We visited a couple of elaborate nativity scenes, some mechanical, and all beautiful.

    Dinner tonight will be in a nearby osteria recommended by the hotel, well known for fish.    En savoir plus

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  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018Laurie Reynolds

    First pizza in Naples

    21 décembre 2018, Italie ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Well, I will just slip in a few pictures of the pizza and the Pizzeria Antillo. Great recommendation from our hotel. Totally delicious. Joe had one with squash and mushrooms, I had a special “8 star” pizza with fresh ricotta pockets in each star.

    Feeling totally sated, and totally safe, in Naples. But I did find a little irony in the “Merry Christmas” lights over the piles of garbage.    En savoir plus

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  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018Laurie Reynolds

    Archaeological Museum -- First stop!

    21 décembre 2018, Italie ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    We slept from about 9 till 10 (that’s pm till am) and now seem to be firmly set on Italian time. First stop, Archaeological Museum. If you thought all Roman statues were headless and armless, that’s just because the Italians kept all the good stuff for themselves. Three and a half hours there went fast — tiny figures and vessels, frescoes from Pompeii houses, statuary and mosaics from Herculaneum, it was awesome.

    Lunch in a tiny cafe - the array of vegetables on display attracted us. Then we walked through the oldest part of the city, went several stories down below to Greek and Roman ruins, and then came upon a pretty famous street selling Nativity creches and figures for sale (no longer made inside their 18th century storefronts, now from China, but still fun to walk around).

    This city is chaotic and crazy, run down and gritty. It is full of people gesticulating madly, risking their lives as the cross streets with a million motos, cars, buses, and the occasional ambulance or police car with sirens that gets no respect. I know some people don’t like Naples, but I think it is great.

    Off to the fitness center, while Joe rests. Pizza tonight! After all, Naples is where it all began.    En savoir plus

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  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018Laurie Reynolds
    Home Alone!!!!!
    Liberty Bell made of Legos

    Travel Day

    19 décembre 2018, États Unis ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C

    I decided to get up at 3 am and go to the gym before we left for the airport. (Silver Sneakers is the best part of Medicare — all sorts of gyms all over the country are free!). I had also considered going to the Hilton fitness center in O’Hare, since we were supposed to have such a long layover. But our flight to Chicago was delayed for an hour, which made our layover too short for a gym run. So I am glad I chose the nutty option. And I am hoping I will be better able to sleep tonight on the flight to Rome!

    In Chicago, we got to go to the fancy new American lounge since we are flying international. It is really nice, lots of food and drink, so we were able to eat a regular meal. Then a hop to Philadelphia, where we are in the regular old lounge because their fancy one has not yet opened. Really roughing it in PHL :-) (I don’t pay for this btw, I get in for free when I fly international because of my miles)

    So in an hour we will be on our way. Arriving in Roma around 9 am, and then hopping on a bus or train to Naples. All is well!    En savoir plus

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  • Laurie ReynoldsFamily wedding in NCLaurie Reynolds

    Heading home again

    4 novembre 2018, États Unis ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

    Our last wedding event was the brunch — since we had an early evening flight, though, that meant that we had a lot of time to enjoy the grandkids some more. First stop was Pullen Park in Raleigh. One of those great old parks with a chug chug train around the park, an old time carousel, and a few very tame kids rides. Lots of kids, lots of parents and grandparents taking pictures.

    Our last family stop was Beasley’s, a Raleigh restaurant that has a bit of buzz these days since it was written up in some food magazine. I don’t find these things, I just let Katy do the choosing and follow along. Who knew that chicken and waffles could really be something that tasted good?! I Mac n cheese, biscuits and honey, all those comfort foods that leave you wondering why you just couldn’t resist and had to keep on eating.

    Now back at the airport — we have two flights and about four hours of travel ahead of us while the Berkelely crew has a long 6 hour flight. It is always hard to say goodbye to grandkids, but it was a great family weekend. Only regret was that David and Shannon couldn’t make it with their three!    En savoir plus

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  • Laurie ReynoldsFamily wedding in NCLaurie Reynolds

    Wedding day, before the wedding

    3 novembre 2018, États Unis ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    After rain and clouds for two days, Saturday was gorgeous — sunny and cool, perfect for a wedding. Since the ceremony wasn’t till 3 pm, we had plenty of time to enjoy. Ben had heard a lot about a bakery/bread store, called Boulted Bread, which I can highly recommend. Hard for me to remember having eaten any better pastries. But we spent most of the morning and early afternoon at the North Carolina museum of Art. A former brownfield turned art museum and outdoor sculpture garden, it is a must-see if you come to Raleigh-Durham.En savoir plus

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  • Laurie ReynoldsFamily wedding in NCLaurie Reynolds

    Here in Raleigh Durham

    3 novembre 2018, États Unis ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    We have been in Raleigh-Durham, North Carolina for a family wedding. My niece, a Duke graduate, and her fiance, also a Duke graduate, wanted to get married in the Duke Chapel. Reserving the chapel for a wedding ceremony is not an easy thing, but involves tents and sleeping outside for about a month before the release date for the month in which you want to marry. Very complicated, kind of like getting Duke basketball tickets.

    We decided to make a long weekend of it, and got here on Thursday. Dinner at Luna in downtown Durham was a great way to start off. The American Tobacco campus, home to all the big brands of US cigarettes, has been turned into a non-smoking tourist attraction. Fun to walk around.

    Friday was spent with good coffee, nice long hike on a trail through a lovely forest, lunch at Rose’s, best dumplings I have ever had. After the rehearsal dinner, we almost made it to the after-party, but decided to call it quits and leave the event to the young folks.    En savoir plus

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  • Laurie ReynoldsFall trip to Utah parksLaurie Reynolds

    Last Day -- In Salt Lake City

    21 octobre 2018, États Unis ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    We got to Salt Lake in late morning and spent a few hours walking around town, to the Temple Visitor’s Center, and to the State Capitol. I was surprised that the capitol building was open on Sunday, and more surprisingly, that there was not one security guard in sight nor was there any security to get in. The other capitol buildings I’ve been in lately have metal detectors and agents going through bags. The building itself is a classic state capitol, but not nearly as ornate and gilded as the Illinois or Colorado buildings. There were several murals of westward expansion to Utah, including Brigham Young dressed in a white dress shirt and tie pointing the way ahead through the wilderness surrounded by others who looked much less spiffy and more realistic.

    Since our Greek dinner last night had been less than spectacular, we were planning to go to a standard known chain or something, but our daughter texted that we had to go to the Red Iguana. So with her recommendation, off we went, for what was an excellent mole meal. Poblano Mole and Mole Verde were the two choices. Turns out we were lucky to waltz right in, since the hostess told us the wait had been more than an hour just a while ago. And when we left, people were again lining up outside, so we must have found the Iguana sweet spot.

    Not much left here in Utah for me except an elliptical workout and dinner. I saw a notice that the two Florida gubernatorial candidates will be debating tonight on CNN. Since I have spent probably more than a hundred hours this year working on amicus briefs on different Florida state law issues, I am geeky enough to want to spend my last night on vacation watching Andrew Gillum debate Ron DeSantis!    En savoir plus

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  • Laurie ReynoldsFall trip to Utah parksLaurie Reynolds

    Hunting for petroglyphs

    20 octobre 2018, États Unis ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    I had messed up the day of our return home, thinking it was Sunday instead of Monday. So we suddenly had one more day to enjoy Utah. I found that right on the way to Salt Lake from Moab, there is a canyon with endless numbers of petroglyphs from the Fremont and pictographs from the Utes. The oldest are from around 1000 A.D. We got a little brochure in the gas station at the junction and headed into Nine Mile Canyon, which is actually about 50 miles long. I was a little creeped out because about five miles before the turnoff, up on a hill on the side of the road was a sign that looked like a painted sheet that said “White men kill.” Because we were below the sign, I couldn’t see if there was a direct object to that lovely sentence, nor could we decide whether it was a statement of fact or an exhortation, but in any event it was creepy.

    The road through the canyon was all dirt till a few years ago when mining companies volunteered to pave it as part of their mining concession. There are about 25 miles of rock faces and if you look closely, you will see tons and tons of drawings. It was really fun, kind of like where’s Waldo — lots of walking up and down hills looking at rock faces, trying to identify animals. Definitely saw some elk, some bison, bighorn sheep, something that looked like a turkey. We met a guy in an orange truck at the first site, who really knew all about these sites, and so we just got in the habit of stopping along the road wherever we saw his truck. He didn’t seem to mind.

    Joe has suggested a Greek restaurant in town, the number 3 rated restaurant in Price, Utah. But a Subway is number five, so I don’t think we should get our hopes up!    En savoir plus

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  • Laurie ReynoldsFall trip to Utah parksLaurie Reynolds
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    Two more days in Arches

    19 octobre 2018, États Unis ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    We have had two more days of hiking in Arches, yesterday cloudy but today a brilliant cobalt blue sky again. A couple of times, Joe read in the car while I added a more strenuous loop, and he says Christopher Browning’s “Dismantling Democracy 1933 vs. 2018” in the New York Review is a must-read. So he was not wasting time while sitting in a parking lot, even though once I could have sworn that I saw his eyes closed when I returned to the car.

    The park is crowded, lots of families, lots of retired couples, lots of international visitors. It is good to see how many people are up for taking a three hour walk with some elevation gain just to see a hole that erosion has made in a rock.

    Last night’s dinner has to set the record for the best customer service ever. We went to a very crowded and busy pizzaria with a real wood burning stove no less, and found that the two tables next to us had turned over twice and we still had not gotten our pizza. Joe had a big bowl of toscana soup which took some time, but even so, we were starting to wonder what was going on. The waitress came and apologized, saying that something had happened to our ticket. Then the head cook brought out the pizza and apologized again. We said we were fine, not a problem, we are on vacation. Then the manager came to apologize and we told him the same thing. About ten minutes later, the waitress told us that our pizzas were on the house because of the bad service, but that under Utah law we would have to pay for our glasses of wine. Fine, but really not necessary. Then ten minutes later, the owner of the restaurant came and told us he wanted to treat us to dessert. Never in all my days have I gotten such attention over a late pizza! Forma Antica is the name of the place, and in addition to the service, their pizza was excellent. And tasted good after our morning hike as well!

    Tomorrow, we’re out of Moab and on the way back!    En savoir plus

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  • Laurie ReynoldsFall trip to Utah parksLaurie Reynolds

    Day trip to Canyonlands National Park

    17 octobre 2018, États Unis ⋅ 🌙 4 °C

    We have been lucky with the weather. Today it is raining and snowing in Bryce Canyon! I would have been VERY sad to have that happen, Bryce is just so amazing. Well, we have three more days in Moab and the weather forecast was for showers today, thunderstorms tomorrow, sunny on Friday. So, we decided to spend today in Canyonlands, another national park about an hour away, the thunderstorm day dodging the storms in the car around Arches, and the sunny day hiking in Arches. Sounds like a plan, but you know what happens to those best laid plans. That is something I have learned many times on the Camino, and I think it’s good advice for vacations, too!

    We had cloudy and some partly sunny weather from the time we arrived until about 4:30, when the showers started. At that point, there was one well known arch I really wanted to see, Mesa Arch, about a half mile from the car park. So I went on out while Joe waited in the car.

    We took three short hikes in different parts of the park, between 1.5 and 2.5 miles long. Beautiful canyons everywhere. The last hike, up to a huge crater, shows what happens when a large meteorite lands on earth.

    Maybe Thai food tonight if we can find the place that has been recommended!    En savoir plus

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