A 20-day adventure by Laurie Read more
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  • Day 8

    Olive oil, pizza, and communists

    October 15, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Today was a grey, drizzly Sunday, not exactly perfect weather for exploring our neighborhood, but we did. Joe's phone shows he walked 5.3 miles, slow and steady, but he did it!

    An important part of my Portuguese ritual is to buy olive oil for the Berkeley crew. There are three grocery stores within 1.5 km of here, all in different directions. Joe went with me to two of them and rewarded himself with a chocolate bar. The olive oil crisis here and in Spain is extreme. "Quien tenga un olivo, tiene una mina" was something we heard on the news. Prices have really skyrocketed, but not enough to break my habit. I read that Spaniards are coming to Portugal to buy olive oil, since the prices are 28% higher in Spain, but that seems like a bit of false economy to me. Anyway, today's shopping resulted in about 12 L of oil and one chocolate bar.

    The only thing nearby open for dinner was a pizzaria, and it was fine. Sunday is still a day of rest for most restaurants.

    On the way back to the hotel we passed a multi-story building with an elaborate tile and painted mural extending across the front. The sign in front told us that we were standing in front of the national headquarters of the Portuguese Communist Party. That's quite a building they have! Right across the street from our temple of capitalism, the Sana Metropolitan Hotel.

    The news is so awful it's hard to digest. Every day seems to bring new horrors. But on we must go.

    Vacation is over, tomorrow I start to teach. We are busy setting up visits with our close friends here, which seems a bit more urgent this year as our possible last time, and we will stay in town this weekend to see as many as possible! Hoping to see our former Champaign buddy Peggy in Ericeira, then there’s Luis, Eugenia, Nuno, and of course my Camino buddies!!!
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  • Day 10

    Rainy days and classes

    October 17, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    It’s hard to dig very deep in a two week class, especially when the students for the most part have no idea about any aspect of the US legal system. But it is always a lot of fun and I always try to get them thinking. There are about 30 students in the class, half Portuguese, and half participating on the EU Erasmus exchange, from all over the EU. It’s a wonderful thing to see all the interaction. Hopefully it will lead to greater understanding.

    I have to admit that most of the fun these days has been in the classroom and not outside, since it’s been gray and rainy and drizzly and raining. But I have very much enjoyed walking around the neighborhood and looking at it through my amateurish urban planning eye.

    Bottom line — I would give the planning department of Lisbon an F minus in what they have done to this neighborhood, Rego. It’s an old area, but it is now blocked on all sides – one side by the railroad, two sides by elevated four lane roads, and one side with dead end streets leading to a hilltop. With no way out.

    In terms of buildings, there are three types— very old small houses, some maintained, some in ruins. Then there are the 60-70s three story blocky apartment buildings. And then there are the recent shiny glass buildings that tower over everything else. The neighborhood has some of the old-timey market stands and shops that fix everything. I talked to some residents who told me there is a very active neighborhood association fighting for some attention. But they say the owners of the glitzy fancy buildings get all the attention.
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  • Day 13

    Miradouros and Sardines

    October 20, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    We took an Uber to Conserveira de Lisboa, the traditional old store that has been selling canned sardines, mackerel, tuna, mussels, etc. for a long time. I bought some for my hometown buddies who like them. There is also a modern chain that has lots of glitz and colors. And is probably snapping up a lot of the business now that canned sardines seem to be in fashion. But I’ve been told the sardines are not as good and more than twice as much. I guess the price includes the merry-go-round too.

    We walked about 6 miles till we got an Uber around 4 pm — old squares, hills, up and down to our favorite lookout spots. And a quick detour to see if the socialist party headquarters was still where I remembered it. And, of course, we had some coffee and pasteis de nata thrown in. Occasional moments of nostalgia and a sense that this may be our last year coming to Lisbon.
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  • Day 14

    MAAT

    October 21, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    That stands for Museu de Arte, Arquitectura e Tecnología. We met an old friend from Champaign there. She has been living in the Lisbon area for 4 years but it was only last year that we reconnected. There was a special exhibition of work by Joana Vasconcelos.. She is a Portuguese artist who has won a lot of acclaim for her work. It’s hard to describe, so I’ll let the pictures do the job. Beautiful, whimsical, sparkly, it was a lot of fun. She does with fabric what Chihuly does with glass.

    The MAAT is actually two buildings. One is the old coal-powered original electric plant of Lisbon, with all of the machinery still completely in tact. Adjacent to it is a modern white concrete building with curvy lines, and great views from the top. We went through both buildings, and though the electric power plant had tons of explanatory panels, I could not even begin to comprehend how electricity was produced in that building. Some of the machinery was so beautifully ornate that it seemed to be a continuation of the art exhibit.

    The museum is right on the river, and there is a great walk/bike path that goes along for miles. It’s a wonderful amenity for city dwellers, and it was really getting a ton of use. After a very long lunch, we said goodbye and made plans for next year’s visit. Maybe.
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  • Day 15

    Rainy day at the palace

    October 22, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    About 8 Km outside of Lisbon, the Queluz Palace is “Portugal’s Versailles,” much as La Granja is Spain’s. None of the crowds and not as excessively ornate, with gorgeous gardens that we enjoyed when the rain dropped to a drizzle. There’s also a long tiled canal where the royal family used to go boating. The castle was built in the 18C and is full-on baroque/rococo, just a little shabbier than other similar palaces.

    There were several Brazilians visiting, and they were very interested to read about where the first Emperor of Brazil, Pedro of Braganca, had come from. In a surprise move, this king declared Brazil’s independence from Portugal, which seems a little counter-intuitive. He then abdicated, making his son the new emperor, and returned to Portugal, where he died in the same Queluz palace room where he was born. As you. might guess, he wasn’t too popular in the circles of those who were in favor of Portugal’s colonial empire.

    After a couple of hours there, we went across to the pousada where there is a small bar for those with a sweet tooth and a coffee craving. We stayed in the pousada many years ago, but I had forgotten that it was once a part of the palace complex, the place where the army and some high ranking palace staff lived. It is, like the palace itself, a little bit of a faded lady, but the building is historic and the decor is consistent with the style of Queluz. We had contemplated going on to Sintra, which is just a few more kms along the highway, but the weather refused to cooperate, so we headed back to the hotel, where fitness center and naptime await, one for each of us.
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  • Day 16

    My class

    October 23, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    A couple of my friends want to know more about the class I’m here to teach. I guess I shouldn’t be surprised, since they are educators themselves! So here goes— The class is part of the Universidade Católica’s undergraduate transnational law program. Students who complete a certain number of hours in the program get a little notation on their undergraduate law degree. The courses are wide ranging, and include a lot of slightly random snapshot classes, depending on the country and expertise of the professor. All classes are in English, which means that the Erasmus students (EU exchange) can participate. The main goal of this transnational curriculum is to open students’ eyes to the broader international context that has become so much a part of the Portuguese legal profession. Since the law degree is their undergraduate degree, most will take another year or two for a Masters, and the transnational program is a nudge to them to consider some of the Global LL.M programs that are offered.

    My topic is an introduction to US common law property rules. We read actual judicial decisions, just like US law students do. The goal is to both expose the students to some of the most important rules about the basic property rights to use, exclude, and to transfer, and also to show them the steps of common-law decision making. The traditional Portuguese law curriculum is heavily lecture-based, but I try to make it as interactive as possible. The quality of the students is really very high, but they are so young in comparison to the typical US law student!
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  • Day 17

    Friends

    October 24, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Still raining, but the sunshine comes from the friends. We’ve been lucky to see many of our good Lisbon friends this year. Eugenia, Peggy, Nick, Nuno, Maria João, Rui, Henrique, Maria Inês, Luis.

    I am so glad that we didn’t head off from Lisbon for what turned out to be a rainy weekend, but rather stayed here to enjoy our amigos. I look back on all these many years coming to teach in Lisbon with a lot of wonderful memories, and many of those memories come from our friends.

    One more class, one more rainy day in Lisbon tomorrow.
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