Moving into Work Mode

We had 300 kms to drive and all day to do it. So we had a big and very yummy breakfast in the hotel and then got confounded by Google maps, which must not have been up to date on all the horrendousRead more
We had 300 kms to drive and all day to do it. So we had a big and very yummy breakfast in the hotel and then got confounded by Google maps, which must not have been up to date on all the horrendous construction in Porto. We finally made it out of the city, only to be messed up again by intersecting super-highways and weirdly placed toll booths.
But finally we were on the right highway heading in the right direction. I gave Joe several choices of places to stop en route, and he chose Conimbriga, a Roman city founded in the 2nd C BC. Things were great there till the 3rd C AD, when a wall was built to stop the invading Germanic tribes. But the city fell in the 5th C. What remains are some really nice mosaics, ruined baths, a forum with a few columns standing, and a big part of the wall. What’s especially nice about this site is that it’s totally out in the countryside, so you can really get a sense of the layout and the expanse of the city.
Now here we are in Lisbon, in the same old same old hotel. Two of the doormen recognized us —not surprising since they have been working here for 18 years, which is as long as we’ve been coming!Read more
Two days of teaching, which I am enjoying immensely, and a lot of rain. Today at about 3 pm, the skies cleared, and we hopped in an Uber (there were no cabs outside the hotel, so we had no choice) and headed for the historic center. We walked and walked, feeling quite at home and happy to be here. Down Avenida da Liberdade, through Rossio, down to the river, and over to Casanova, our favorite pizzeria in Lisbon. It’s kind of hidden, across from the Santa Apolonia train station, right on the river.
We have been to several of our favorite places — Carvoeiro da Palma for grilled fish and fresh mango; Treco Lareco, a hole in the wall place with good home cooking but best of all for Joe, mango mousse; and tonight Casanova, the pizzeria with yummy pana cotta. If you are sensing a sweet tooth trail, you would be right, but it’s not mine!
The Christmas lights are all in place, and I’m hoping we will get a chance to see them lit up. I love Lisbon!Read more
Since I’m teaching from 10-1, mornings are out. But I try to get us out and about in the afternoons.
Today we went to the Tile Museum, where we hadn’t been for 15 years. It’s in a 17th C convent with an over the top baroque church (is that redundant?).
We enjoyed it very much, especially the 18th century tiles depicting Lisbon before the 1755 earthquake. And there are lots of beautiful tiles from the 14C forward.
We had taken an Uber to get to the museum. But getting back to the hotel was a challenge, because the museum had no wifi, and I have no telephone service. And it is in the middle of nowhere. Luckily, I had Peggy and Mike’s unused transit cards, so we hopped on a bus to the center. After walking for a few kms, we picked up a cab and got back to the hotel.
Tonight we went to one of our two favorite hole-in-the-wall places. Freshly caught fish, garlicky green beans, and for the sweets-lover, a leite creme.Read more
TravelerThat looks like a big juicy steak to me (not the fish kind)... Glad to read and see that Joe has a healthy appetite!
TravelerGorgeous pictures, Laurie. And all that walking means you two can eat whatever you want and not worry about gaining weight. I'm happy you are enjoying your teaching, after all these years.
My teaching week ended yesterday. In the past, we have always rented a car and headed out of town for three days. This year we decided to stay and enjoy the weekend in Lisboa.
Last night we met up with five Caminho friends. I go way back with Jose Luiz and Natercia, who are the founders and still the prime movers of the Via Lusitana, the Portuguese friends of the caminho association. The rest of us were just plain old Caminho addicts, except for Joe, who went along for the fun of it. A good time was had by all, and we were all given a pretty Portuguese credential as well as a nice Via Lusitana pin. It will go on my camino hat next to my little arrow pin.
Today we decided to revisit the Palace of the Marques da Fronteira, which is a bit off the beaten path. It’s a 17th century palace, founded by the first Marques, who got his title for his role in the war for independence from Spain. It is still inhabited by the noble family. It has amazing tiles, most made in Portugal but some from outside. Interesting tidbit—I learned why the grotto walls are covered with broken pieces of china. It turns out that King Pedro II attended the celebratory dinner when the palace was completed. According to tradition, any plates used by the king or used to serve the king could never be reused. So they were smashed and became part of the decor.
A long walk brought us within striking distance of our hotel, and we hopped on a bus for the last km or two.Read more
The Tram museum is not a 5* attraction but it’s really interesting. It’s housed in the actual huge Carris maintenance and garage facility. You can see some of the original cars (and actually get a ride on one of the very first electric trams from the early 1900s), but it also gives a very good history of the transformation of the company. From a few horse drawn wagon type trams (called “americanos,” perhaps because one of the two owners was from Brazil), and then the laying of rails throughout the city, lots of fascinating pictures. It was also really interesting to see how different the ethos of the company was back then. There was a barbershop on the premises and all employees were required to be well shaved and coiffed. All men in dress shirt and ties.
Our plan was to visit the Arte Antica museum next, but when we got there they told us that the Hieronymus Bosch painting (which is really the stand out of the European collection) was on loan, and that the entire floor of Portuguese painting (which has some medieval work that I like) was about to close for a two hours lunch break. So we went to Plan B, which involved walking around through the fancy embassy neighborhood and then having lunch in our favorite Lisbon park, Estrela. We were then able to get on the tram 28 for a ride across town to some of the great Miradouros over the Alfama and the Tagus river.
Joe lost his glasses, which is quite the bummer. But he is having some laser glaucoma treatment when we get home so he may need new glasses anyway. Nothing to be done about it for the time being.
Still waiting for some election results!Read more
TravelerBeautiful shots of Lisbon as usual. The tram museum sounds like something Nils would really enjoy; I'll make sure he reads your post and looks at the photos. RE Bosch: I love his paintings! Your story about going to an art museum and finding out that the "star" is missing happened to me in July 2000. I was in Madrid, already in El Prado, and what do you know? "The Garden of Earthly Delights" was being restored. Aaargh!
First, the persistence. Joe kept insisting he was sure where he left his glasses, so I decided the best option was to go take a look. It would have been a great story! No luck, though the woman in the park’s café told me she had a huge ring of keys, including two car keys, that someone lost yesterday. So I think we got off lucky, just losing glasses.
From there we decided to go to the Aljube, a former political prison during the Salazar dictatorship. It has been turned into the Museum of the Resistance. We had been there ten years ago when it first opened, and it was just as chilling as before. So many displays of inhumanity. The last rooms of the permanent exhibition end with an upbeat recounting of the Carnation Revolution — deposing a dictatorship without firing a shot. I thought the museum struck the right tone — not too pollyanish but clear in its message that there was a good side and a bad side.
I found a public elevator I had never seen before — takes you straight down into the middle of the Alfama, the old moorish neighborhood below the castle walls. We hadn’t been down there because there are just too many uneven surfaces, ups and downs, nooks and crannies. But Joe was game, so dowon we went. We did wind up doing a fair amount of up and down through tiny narrow passageways. It is becoming quite the trendy area — lots of Air BnBs, restaurants, souvenir shops, etc, but there are still real people living there, all of whom seem to do their wash on Sunday and hang it outside.
Our plan was to walk down to the center and catch a cab back to the hotel. But there was no traffic going through the streets. I thought surely there must be some huge political demonstration going on, but after walking a mile or so up from the center towards our hotel, we saw that it was an Antique Car Association gathering that had blocked off the main drag in town and essentially stopped traffic going into the historic core. The cops we asked about it were not big fans, but some of these cars were real gems.
Finally, about two hours later and three more miles walked than hoped for, we found a cab and made it back to the hotel. Teaching starts up tomorrow bright and early.Read more
TravelerThe Museum of the Resistance reminds me of the "Museo de la memoria" here in Córdoba. So many atrocities committed by the military, so much cruelty, so much impunity. It's important to be aware of these events from the recent past. Your description of old narrow passageways being turned into hip areas reminded me of tiny houses, some dating from the Middle Ages, carefully restored, that can be seen all over Germany. Love your pictures of Lisbon.
TravelerSo, the big question might be how they got rid of the dictatorship without violence. The main answer is likely the role of the army (not all of them? I think), but I think another element was widespread strikes. Some of these were still on
Laurie ReynoldsI am no historian, as you know, but the museum did not make a big deal about public or widespread citizen unrest before the revolution, though there were panels describing student movements, the underground resistance, etc. The focus seemed to be the freedom movements in the African colonies and how those had cascading effects on the military’s resolve to continue the colonial regime. But I defer to those who know what they are talking about.
Yesterday was travel day from hell, but we are home!
First, the fire alarm in the Marriott started going off at 2:30 in the morning and it kept on going off and on intermittently till our 4 am wake up call. By 4:30 we were out of the hotel and on the way to the airport, so I don’t know how long it kept on beeping.
The one real high point of the day was that I ran into an old UI student of mine (graduation class 2009), who has moved to Lisbon with her husband and settled there permanently. She practices law remotely with a Texas firm, and her husband does something tech related. We had a great catch-up and promised that if I make it back next year, we will get together.
That was the end of the fun. The flight from Lisbon to London was late, reducing our transfer time to 1 hour and 10 minutes. The very helpful BA flight attendant insisted Joe needed assistance, though I knew he was quite capable of walking it and am not sure why I went along with this. But it meant we had to wait till the plane emptied to deplane, only to find that the “buggy” he had ordered was not there. It arrived a few minutes later, and the driver then told us that the buggy could only take us to the spot where we had to go upstairs to go through security again. So we in essence waited 20 minutes for a 3 minute buggy ride, which would have taken Joe no more than 10, in my estimation. The line was snaking at security, but we jumped to the front. Joe and I go through different lines and for some reason his shoes had to come off while mine didn’t. And then he couldn’t find where his shoes had gone! Then rush down two levels, which are not connected by the same elevator, to get to the level for the shuttle which would take us close to our gate. As we were waiting for the shuttle, I saw that our flight was flashing “final boarding,” which made my heart sink. But I am glad we didn’t just call it quits. At that point, the shuttle arrived and emptied out, but they had to do the “security check”, a manual inspection of all five cars, which took another several minutes. We got to the gate as the agent was actually closing the first boarding door. BUT… the very nice woman called the people at the second door (a floor down from the main entrance) and told them to hold it for a few minutes. As we showed our boarding passes, mine triggered a random extra security search. But since they assured me that we were through and would make the flight, those few extra minutes just gave us time to catch our breath and look less frazzled when we actually boarded. We had not done a Heathrow transfer in many years, and you can be sure I will now avoid it at all costs.
Once we sat down, and the doors closed, nothing happened. About 15 minutes later, a very apologetic and polite British voice told us that the refrigeration system for the food wasn’t working, and they had to order some dry ice as a substitute. And then of course the mechanics had to fill out several maintenance forms, etc etc. So as a result, our flight was more than an hour late. I will say though, that the food we got was several orders of magnitude more edible than what we have had recently on American or Iberia. We even had an “afternoon tea” before touchdown, clotted cream included.
Note to self: Do not arrive in Chicago’s international arrivals on the weekend before Thanksgiving. The lines were horrendous, the luggage pick-up and drop-off area just chaotic, and the train back to the main terminal crushed worse than the sardines I brought back from Lisbon. Getting through security was another ordeal, slower than molasses, but finally we got through, only to learn that our Champaign flight would be delayed by about an hour. At that point, we just shrugged and figured the worse was over. And we are now home!Read more
TravelerHi Laurie, indeed an awful travel experience. Your Heathrow experience is par for that airport. That's my no 1 airport to avoid.I am glad you are home and Irene and I are looking forward to seeing you soon.Abrazos, Nils
Laurie ReynoldsTotally agree. But as I was navigating international arrivals in O’Hare yesterday, the Brit next to me said with amazement — “I never thought I’d find a worse airport than Heathrow, but I have!”
TravelerGood detailed account of your days as usual, Laurie. It's a warm feeling when people far away recognize you when they see you again, every year or once every few years. Nils and I have that happen to us with the staff of the Hotel Miraflores, in Lima. It makes you feel less "foreign."
TravelerFinally back on the Penguins! I filled in some responses below. I especially liked Laurie’s reactions to the revolutionary soldier/hero and added some memories of our 1975 visit to revolutionary Lisbon. Travel safely.
TravelerI’m in awe of the ruins that have been uncovered which date soooooo far back.