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- Day 1
- Thursday, October 27, 2022 at 5:07 PM
- ⛅ 25 °C
- Altitude: 400 m
PortugalPaço Ducal de Vila Viçosa38°46’54” N 7°25’17” W
Starting our castle town circle

We had a long day of travel yesterday, but I got a few hours sleep on the plane and by 10:30 in the morning we were in our rental car and had dropped off a suitcase at the Marriott for my teaching days. We’ve now got a little more than a week to travel. The first few days will be some castle towns, then the Douro Valley, and then three or four nights in Porto. Then head to Lisbon, and I will have to work. This is my 18th year teaching this two week class, and I have been hoping to make it to 20. But we’ll see, the important thing is to enjoy it while we can!
I was shocked and a little disappointed to get A car with automatic transmission. Our first stop was Estremoz, a big town or small city in the Alentejo region. It’s perched up on a hill and has a really nice castle as well as a well preserved old quarter. Lots of cobblestones make for slow walking. After lunch we headed to Vila Viçosa, which is where we are staying tonight. In a 16th century convent turned hotel.
After I plugged the hotel address into my phone, Google maps took us to a dead end in a huge marble quarry. This area has a lot of marble, and you can see it in every town in their benches, in their churches, and even in their castles. It was actually interesting to see the quarry and not too far out of the way.
While Joe napped I took a long walk around town, explored the castle and almost took a tour of the Duke of Braganza palace. But I remembered from about 15 years ago when we were here that the tour, which is obligatory, lasts an hour and goes through an endless number of rooms. I didn’t think my Portuguese or my interest level was up to it after a few hours sleep, so I just enjoyed the view from the outside.
The weather is great, low 70s Fahrenheit, with a mix of sun and clouds. The weather app shows rain every day for the next 10 days, but so far so good.Read more
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- Day 2
- Friday, October 28, 2022 at 1:34 PM
- ☁️ 18 °C
- Altitude: 816 m
PortugalMarvão39°23’39” N 7°22’33” W
For my historian friends

When we got to the castle in Castelo de Vide, the very nice man at the entrance told us that there was a new museum inside, dedicated to one of Castelo de Vide’s most illustrious sons — Fernando Salgueiro Maia. On April 25, 1974, a 29-year old Captain in the Portuguese army, he brought his batallion(?) from Santarém into Lisbon in a parade of tanks to form part of the Carnation Revolution. He was positioned in Lisbon in the area of Convento do Carmo, where there is also a military barracks. Turns out the president of the government (Caetano someone) had fled there for protection.
Salgueiro Maia went inside, demanded the resignation of the government, and it finally came. He spoke to the crowd outside with a bull horn to announce that the government had agreed to step down. The museum shows the evolution of his thought and ultimate decision to join with the other “capitaes”. He had fought in both Moçambique and Guinea, and footage showed some of the carnage he witnessed. Convinced that these colonial wars were going nowhere and were atrociously immoral, he decided, as he said that “Há alturas em que é preciso desobedecer.” (there are moments when it is necessary to disobey).
As you might imagine, he was praised and feted in the aftermath of the revolution. But the story ends sadly. He was offered many positions in the new government, but unlike the other military heroes, he refused to join the government, being firmly of the opinion that military leaders have no business being government leaders. For that he was shunned, ostracized, and his loyalty questioned. It wasn’t until after his death (at a very young age in the 90s, from cancer) that the government gave his widow Portugal’s highest medals of honor.
He was born in Castelo de Vide in a modest home (father worked for the RR, mother a maid), and is buried, as he wished, in Castelo de Vide. He has three children — two adopted with his wife, who live in Luxembourg and Lisbon, and an out of wedlock son from his early days, who apparently lives in the US.
I think Castelo de Vide is rightly and enormously proud of this man.Read more

TravelerLaurie and Joe, you may remember that Jenny and I arrived in Lisbon in the immediate wake of the revolution. The city was a wreck — everyone on strike but very happy, it seemed. We stayed in the fishermen’s neighborhood, whatever it’s called, where the Communist Party had banners all over the place. The soldiers had long hair and beards and gave us a whole batch of revolutionary posters, which I still have. Very nice memories of the place!
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- Day 2
- Friday, October 28, 2022 at 7:16 PM
- ☁️ 18 °C
- Altitude: 816 m
PortugalMarvão39°23’39” N 7°22’33” W
Roman Ruins and Castelo de Vide

We left Vila Viçosa after a big breakfast and had about a 75 minute drive through the Alentejo to get to the Roman Ruins of Ammaia. I LOVE the Alentejo — small rolling hills with cork, olive, and scrub oak trees all around. The week of rain they’ve had brought another advantage - all the grass was very green, it was so nice.
We got to ruins of Ammaia, at one time a city of 2,000, located right on the Roman Road to Mérida. Excavations are ongoing, only started in 1994, but they have excavated the main gateway (with the main entrance arch being spirited away in the late 1700s), the forum and its Jupiter temple, and the baths. Truth be told, we have seen a lot of more complete ruins, but it is, IMHO, always a treat to walk through and contemplate how long ago it was and how they lived. The museum has a lot of little pieces of things, lots of jewelry, and some headless statues of men with robes, of which you’ve probably seen millions. My favorite were the stones that explained to Jupiter someone’s gratitude for fulfilling a wish/desire/prayer. Lovesio was apparently born a slave and freed, and left his carved stone of thanks near what was the altar. I thought Joe should leave some carvings on behalf of the other Loves in our family. Joe did great, and only gave my arm two or three black and blue marks.
We spent almost all afternoon in Castelo de Vide. It was market day, so parking was tough, but we managed. After lunch of a good salad and sandwich, we walked up to the castle, which opened about 3 minutes after our arrival. Dumb luck. I don’t know what it is with me and castles, but I can’t resist climbing up every step to every tower or lookout point. Joe patiently sat in the keep’s courtyard and waved every time my head popped out.
Castelo de Vide had a very large Jewish population and their Judería is really very pretty and well preserved. Tough up and down walking for Joe, on cobblestone streets, but in addition to my arm, there was a railing down the center so he was supported on both sides. There is what is thought to have been a synagogue, but I think the experts are not all convinced.
By 5:00 Joe was taking a nap in our very nice “estalagem” and I embarked on a 90 minute trip through the castle. Marvao Castle has always been one of my very favorites and today was great. So much to climb, so many different vantage points, so many series of embedded walls and protected lookouts. The views are just amazing, and I was there till a few minutes before sunset.
Our estalagem also owns one of the best restaurants in town, Varanda do Alentejo, and it’s right across the street, so we will eat there. Now that I’ve checked out the castle thoroughly, I can bring Joe back tomorrow to the places that are most accessible for him, and he will not have to sit and watch me climb!Read more
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- Day 3
- Saturday, October 29, 2022 at 6:58 PM
- 🌧 15 °C
- Altitude: 579 m
PortugalBelmonte40°21’25” N 7°21’12” W
Romans, Castles, and Rain

Since Marvao Castle is one of my favorites, I got Joe up there early in the morning for a visit with minimal climbing. Then after breakfast, we drove to Spain, to see Trajan’s bridge (106 AD) over the Tajo/Tejo/Tagus River. I don’t know why I had never heard of it, and it was only thanks to my Camino pal Alan that I knew it was not to be missed. It is spectacular! From there, on to the little historical village of Idanha-a-Velha, where we were able to see some Roman walls and templar towers, and then the rain started.
Our main destination for the day, the stone village of Monsanto, has become extremely popular in the 8 year interval since we last visited. Parking was difficult (there was one handicapped space open right at the entrance, mocking me for having left Joe’s pass at home). We had about 15 minutes walking on the cobblestone streets through narrow streets and navigating huge boulders. Then the rain started. So I dropped Joe off in a little pastelaria, where he had several empanadas and a few sweets while I climbed up to the castle. Even in the rain, I will climb up to a castle. Thankfully, the rain stopped for a good 20 minutes while I was up there and I was able to climb and enjoy the views. Then a bit more rain while I had a snack in Joe’s place. We did get a good 45 minutes with no rain and enjoyed getting lost in the little narrow streets, it is really a beautiful place.
We are spending the night in the town of Belmonte. The pousada was full, unfortunately, so we are in town in a modern place that’s fine. I’ve climbed to the castle and explored the judería while Joe naps. That’s a good division of labor for us!Read more

TravelerI envy you your energy Laurie. It seems to me that taking a drive occasionally is quite a nice change - especially when you have a plan with places you want to explore.- as an aside question? is an special parking entitlement from usa still valid in Portugal?

Laurie ReynoldsHi, Annie, I don’t know that for sure, but since the symbol on our placard is identical to the symbol on the parking space, I would not hesitate to use it.
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- Day 4
- Sunday, October 30, 2022 at 2:09 PM
- ⛅ 14 °C
- Altitude: 1,035 m
PortugalCathedral of Guarda40°32’17” N 7°16’10” W
Repeat of yesterday, minus the rain!

Well not an exact repeat, because even though we visited Roman ruins and some stone villages with castles, just like yesterday, we added a squat gothic cathedral and a 5,000 year old necropolis to the itinerary.
First stop, Centum Cellas, a 1st C Roman tower with ruins surrounding it. The plaque describes it as a mystery structure—prison, fortress, religious site, villa? My camino friend Alan, whose footsteps we are following (though he is walking and we are driving) rightly pointed out that the Romans were too smart to build a prison or a fortress with so many windows.
Sortelha is less touristy than the “aldeia histórica” we visited yesterday (Monsanto), but it was much more accessible for Joe. More compact, beautifully preserved. Sortelha dates back to the 12C and used to be part of the kingdom of León, so it must have changed hands several times in the back and forth wars that ultimately resulted in two separate countries. Just beautiful.
From there, on to Sabugal, another castle town. I hadn’t originally thought we’d visit so many, but given the rain of yesterday, and the fact that I remembered this castle as having its entrance directly to a street in town, I thought it’d be a good one to end the castle circuit with. Joe didn’t climb up to the walls, but sat in the Plaza de Armas and waved when I hollered from above.
At this point, I though Joe should choose between another medieval town or a gothic cathedral, and he chose the latter. So we drove to Guarda, and surprisingly drove straight up to the cathedral entrance and slipped in an open parking place. After lunch in a decent place near the cathedral, we visited the cathedral (Joe said his prayers while I climbed to the roof) and then hit the road for our Casa Rural in the Douro.
On the way, we saw a sign pointing off road to a megalithic necropolis. Usually these signs give no indication of how far off road they are, but this one said 5 km. As we went through town, I stopped to ask a resident if the route was well marked, if it was really 5 km away, and if the road was paved (all of these questions were learned the hard way). She assured me it was, and off we went. There is something pretty awesome about standing out in the middle of nowhere and walking through a stone structure built 5,000 years ago to bury the dead of the people who built it.
Then back on the road. Coming from the south, we had to descend to the Douro, cross it, and ascend to our place on the other side. It is lovely, the Casa do Visconde de Chanceleiros. Dinner at 7:30 - no night driving on these roads for me!Read more

TravelerWhat a wonderfully detailed account of your daily visits, Laurie. All your pictures are lovely. I especially like the first one of today, with the parallel flower beds. In Spanish we call those "canteros." I wonder if Portuguese has a similar word?

Wonderful photos, Laurie. The picture of Joe at the castle at Sabugal really gives an excellent sense of perspective of how massive that structure is. Enjoying your travelogue so much :-) Interesting contrast of of the castle with the wind turbines in the distance. Keep the great pics coming!
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- Day 5
- Monday, October 31, 2022 at 6:36 PM
- ⛅ 14 °C
- Altitude: 235 m
PortugalQuinta do Infantado, Vinhas e Adega41°10’23” N 7°34’40” W
Nothing but Douro

The rain returned, so we decided that today was the day to take the chug chug train up the Douro to the end of the line, Pocinho. It goes through a part of the river where the train is the only access, and it is quite beautiful. We had a late breakfast and made our way to the train station for an 11:30 train. We were not the only tourists who were doing this, and it involved an hour ride, a half hour wait, and an hour return. Every inch of it along the river. Turns out we had very little rain and lots of nice views, even in the late fall. Some of the grape leaves are still green, others are red, others are yello, others are brown, and still others have fallen off. It makes for a pretty palate.
Getting back into Pinhao around 2 pm meant we had a late lunch. We ate just a few little empanadas of chicken and tuna, knowing that we were in for another big meal tonight back at the hotel.
By the time we were done with lunch, the rain had stopped totally and the sky was dotted with big clouds, little clouds, grey clouds, dark clouds, white clouds. We decided to take about an hour drive up into the vineyards and had some pretty amazing views along with a few walks through open vineyards (we figured the owners wouldn’t mind if we walked through the vineyards instead of along the very narrow highway).
So that was the sum total of our day — no Roman anything, no medieval cities, no megalithic necropolis! Relaxing and plenty of fresh air with beautiful views. The Douro Valley is really one of my favorite places.Read more
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- Day 6
- Tuesday, November 1, 2022 at 6:09 PM
- 🌙 12 °C
- Altitude: 114 m
PortugalQuinta das Gregoças41°11’26” N 7°47’26” W
Douro again!

The plan originally was to head to Porto today, but someone at breakfast raved about a place they had stayed, in a working vineyard no less. That was enough for me to change plans. I just love this part of Portugal. So we lolly-gagged around the valley, up and down from the river level to high lookout points, and had a picnic lunch at one of them. On the way, I saw several arrows, reminding me that I had walked through these parts a little more than a month ago.
By about 3:30, we were checked in to the Casal dos Capelinhos. Joe was starting his nap, and I was walking up and down, back and forth (some rows are parallel to the river, some are perpendicular) from one row of grapes to another. The sun dropped slowly behind the hill in front of us, and it was so peaceful. The time flew by.
We will eat here tonight, and tomorrow we will definitely go to Porto!Read more
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- Day 7
- Wednesday, November 2, 2022 at 7:28 PM
- ☁️ 14 °C
- Altitude: 65 m
PortugalMMIPO - Museu da Misericórdia do Porto41°8’38” N 8°36’52” W
Into Porto

I took an early walk through the vineyard and after a scrumptious breakfast (my favorite was a homemade chia mango yoghurt) we headed to Porto. It was an easy drive, at least till we got into the city. Since I’ll be driving the car back to Lisbon on Saturday,, I drove it to a parking garage close to our hotel, which is on a pedestrian street.
How Porto has changed since we were last here, which was probably almost 15 years ago. Oh so very trendy. Lots of beautiful hotels in old mansions. Ours is in a 16C palace, and has a fitness center with elliptical, so what more could we ask for?
While Joe napped, I went to the fitness center and then took a walk over the top level of the bridge to Gaia’s Jardim do Morro . Gorgeous views back over the Douro to Porto’s riverside.
Joe was up and ready to head out with almost two hours of daylight left. We walked down to the river and across to Gaia on the lower level of the bridge this time. Such incredibly beautiful scenes.
Our hotel is near a million restaurants so dinner will be easy. The last picture is of the biggest penny candy shop I’ve ever seen. They weigh your bag. At 4€ per 100 grams, it’s not cheap.Read more
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- Day 8
- Thursday, November 3, 2022 at 7:03 PM
- ⛅ 13 °C
- Altitude: 65 m
PortugalPalácio dos Maias41°8’38” N 8°36’52” W
Day in Porto

The huge hotel breakfast gave us lots of energy, so from 11-4, Joe snd I walked and visited and walked some more. About 7-8 miles for him today! The trick is frequent stops snd frequent snacks. I stopped counting how many pasteis de nata he has had since we arrived in Portugal.
We had not intended to stop in the bookstore that is supposedly J. K. Rowling’s inspiration for some of Hogwarts. But she herself has said she was never there! The line was huge and we were walking by. As we stopped to peek at the window, a nice attendant came up and said we could jump the line, no doubt because of our infirm condition. So we paid our €12 and went in. It was mobbed, but it really is a beautiful bookstore.
From there we got caught up in a huge construction project going on in the middle of the city. Porto is adding a new metro line, a project that will take at least a decade, and it has really made a mess of certain parts of the city. But after we navigated it, we made our way back over to Gaia,, this time on the top level of the bridge. From there, we went to the cathedral and to the Gothic São Francisco church, whose insides have been turned into a Baroque riot.
I was on my own for a few hours, and just enjoyed going up and down the hills, finding little lookouts, and then walking across the bridge one more time, this time to see the riverside lit up at night. We probably won’t go far for dinner, and hopefully it’ll be an early night to bed.Read more
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- Day 9
- Friday, November 4, 2022 at 9:29 AM
- ☁️ 11 °C
- Altitude: 62 m
PortugalPalácio dos Maias41°8’37” N 8°36’47” W
To Pinhais & Cia.

The New York Times had an article this summer describing the tour of the Pinhais canning factory, which has retained an entirely manual processing method. The original founding Pinhal family, was ready to close the conservaría (which has been the fate of nearly all of the many canning factories in this area), but a rich Austrian who very much loves these particular sardines bought the factory in 2020. His condition was that the original methods be preserved. And he opened the factory to tours. It was incredibly interesting.
We started in the original business office, with ornate staircases, beautiful tiles, all the old office equipment. There are a couple of movies (a little hokey) some reels showing old fishing scenes. Then we move to the actual factory, where the work is being done (a M-F visit is highly recommended though they give tours on weekends)
The line work is all done by women (some in the third or fourth generation). First step, chop off the head and pull out the guts in one swipe of the knife. Another woman cuts off the tail. There’s another line of women that put the special seasoning in each can —clove, Bayleaf, chili pepper, carrot, pickle, and black pepper. Then finally the perfectly cut sardines are placed in the cans. The cans themselves are closed mechanically. But the labels are put on by hand, at a pace of one every six seconds.
The women seemed to take enormous pride in their work. Many came to greet us on the floor and seemed genuinely happy. The NYT article reported that the women make 800€ a month, which is just minimum wage. I’m not equating job satisfaction with a high salary, but it did surprise me.
We took a bus out and back, from the Douro to the sea and up the coast a bit. After an hour walk along the water, we headed back. I then took one last walk across the bridge to enjoy the view in late afternoon sun and to watch all the people speaking so many different languages and all enjoying the same beautiful sights.Read more
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- Day 10
- Saturday, November 5, 2022 at 9:22 PM
- 🌙 13 °C
- Altitude: 116 m
PortugalSete Rios38°44’49” N 9°9’51” W
Moving into Work Mode

We had 300 kms to drive and all day to do it. So we had a big and very yummy breakfast in the hotel and then got confounded by Google maps, which must not have been up to date on all the horrendous construction in Porto. We finally made it out of the city, only to be messed up again by intersecting super-highways and weirdly placed toll booths.
But finally we were on the right highway heading in the right direction. I gave Joe several choices of places to stop en route, and he chose Conimbriga, a Roman city founded in the 2nd C BC. Things were great there till the 3rd C AD, when a wall was built to stop the invading Germanic tribes. But the city fell in the 5th C. What remains are some really nice mosaics, ruined baths, a forum with a few columns standing, and a big part of the wall. What’s especially nice about this site is that it’s totally out in the countryside, so you can really get a sense of the layout and the expanse of the city.
Now here we are in Lisbon, in the same old same old hotel. Two of the doormen recognized us —not surprising since they have been working here for 18 years, which is as long as we’ve been coming!Read more

TravelerGood detailed account of your days as usual, Laurie. It's a warm feeling when people far away recognize you when they see you again, every year or once every few years. Nils and I have that happen to us with the staff of the Hotel Miraflores, in Lima. It makes you feel less "foreign."
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- Day 13
- Tuesday, November 8, 2022 at 8:25 PM
- ⛅ 16 °C
- Altitude: 116 m
PortugalSete Rios38°44’49” N 9°9’51” W
Our favorite pizzeria

Two days of teaching, which I am enjoying immensely, and a lot of rain. Today at about 3 pm, the skies cleared, and we hopped in an Uber (there were no cabs outside the hotel, so we had no choice) and headed for the historic center. We walked and walked, feeling quite at home and happy to be here. Down Avenida da Liberdade, through Rossio, down to the river, and over to Casanova, our favorite pizzeria in Lisbon. It’s kind of hidden, across from the Santa Apolonia train station, right on the river.
We have been to several of our favorite places — Carvoeiro da Palma for grilled fish and fresh mango; Treco Lareco, a hole in the wall place with good home cooking but best of all for Joe, mango mousse; and tonight Casanova, the pizzeria with yummy pana cotta. If you are sensing a sweet tooth trail, you would be right, but it’s not mine!
The Christmas lights are all in place, and I’m hoping we will get a chance to see them lit up. I love Lisbon!Read more
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- Day 14
- Wednesday, November 9, 2022 at 9:00 PM
- 🌙 15 °C
- Altitude: 86 m
PortugalCampo Grande38°44’52” N 9°10’6” W
Tile Museum

Since I’m teaching from 10-1, mornings are out. But I try to get us out and about in the afternoons.
Today we went to the Tile Museum, where we hadn’t been for 15 years. It’s in a 17th C convent with an over the top baroque church (is that redundant?).
We enjoyed it very much, especially the 18th century tiles depicting Lisbon before the 1755 earthquake. And there are lots of beautiful tiles from the 14C forward.
We had taken an Uber to get to the museum. But getting back to the hotel was a challenge, because the museum had no wifi, and I have no telephone service. And it is in the middle of nowhere. Luckily, I had Peggy and Mike’s unused transit cards, so we hopped on a bus to the center. After walking for a few kms, we picked up a cab and got back to the hotel.
Tonight we went to one of our two favorite hole-in-the-wall places. Freshly caught fish, garlicky green beans, and for the sweets-lover, a leite creme.Read more

TravelerThat looks like a big juicy steak to me (not the fish kind)... Glad to read and see that Joe has a healthy appetite!

TravelerGorgeous pictures, Laurie. And all that walking means you two can eat whatever you want and not worry about gaining weight. I'm happy you are enjoying your teaching, after all these years.
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- Day 16
- Friday, November 11, 2022 at 1:47 PM
- ☀️ 20 °C
- Altitude: 74 m
PortugalSete Rios38°44’38” N 9°10’34” W
Caminho friends and more tiles

My teaching week ended yesterday. In the past, we have always rented a car and headed out of town for three days. This year we decided to stay and enjoy the weekend in Lisboa.
Last night we met up with five Caminho friends. I go way back with Jose Luiz and Natercia, who are the founders and still the prime movers of the Via Lusitana, the Portuguese friends of the caminho association. The rest of us were just plain old Caminho addicts, except for Joe, who went along for the fun of it. A good time was had by all, and we were all given a pretty Portuguese credential as well as a nice Via Lusitana pin. It will go on my camino hat next to my little arrow pin.
Today we decided to revisit the Palace of the Marques da Fronteira, which is a bit off the beaten path. It’s a 17th century palace, founded by the first Marques, who got his title for his role in the war for independence from Spain. It is still inhabited by the noble family. It has amazing tiles, most made in Portugal but some from outside. Interesting tidbit—I learned why the grotto walls are covered with broken pieces of china. It turns out that King Pedro II attended the celebratory dinner when the palace was completed. According to tradition, any plates used by the king or used to serve the king could never be reused. So they were smashed and became part of the decor.
A long walk brought us within striking distance of our hotel, and we hopped on a bus for the last km or two.Read more
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- Day 17
- Saturday, November 12, 2022 at 7:02 PM
- 🌙 16 °C
- Altitude: 113 m
PortugalSete Rios38°44’48” N 9°9’52” W
Tram museum and some wandering

The Tram museum is not a 5* attraction but it’s really interesting. It’s housed in the actual huge Carris maintenance and garage facility. You can see some of the original cars (and actually get a ride on one of the very first electric trams from the early 1900s), but it also gives a very good history of the transformation of the company. From a few horse drawn wagon type trams (called “americanos,” perhaps because one of the two owners was from Brazil), and then the laying of rails throughout the city, lots of fascinating pictures. It was also really interesting to see how different the ethos of the company was back then. There was a barbershop on the premises and all employees were required to be well shaved and coiffed. All men in dress shirt and ties.
Our plan was to visit the Arte Antica museum next, but when we got there they told us that the Hieronymus Bosch painting (which is really the stand out of the European collection) was on loan, and that the entire floor of Portuguese painting (which has some medieval work that I like) was about to close for a two hours lunch break. So we went to Plan B, which involved walking around through the fancy embassy neighborhood and then having lunch in our favorite Lisbon park, Estrela. We were then able to get on the tram 28 for a ride across town to some of the great Miradouros over the Alfama and the Tagus river.
Joe lost his glasses, which is quite the bummer. But he is having some laser glaucoma treatment when we get home so he may need new glasses anyway. Nothing to be done about it for the time being.
Still waiting for some election results!Read more

TravelerBeautiful shots of Lisbon as usual. The tram museum sounds like something Nils would really enjoy; I'll make sure he reads your post and looks at the photos. RE Bosch: I love his paintings! Your story about going to an art museum and finding out that the "star" is missing happened to me in July 2000. I was in Madrid, already in El Prado, and what do you know? "The Garden of Earthly Delights" was being restored. Aaargh!
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- Day 18
- Sunday, November 13, 2022 at 6:53 PM
- ⛅ 17 °C
- Altitude: 116 m
PortugalSete Rios38°44’49” N 9°9’51” W
Persistence and Resistance

First, the persistence. Joe kept insisting he was sure where he left his glasses, so I decided the best option was to go take a look. It would have been a great story! No luck, though the woman in the park’s café told me she had a huge ring of keys, including two car keys, that someone lost yesterday. So I think we got off lucky, just losing glasses.
From there we decided to go to the Aljube, a former political prison during the Salazar dictatorship. It has been turned into the Museum of the Resistance. We had been there ten years ago when it first opened, and it was just as chilling as before. So many displays of inhumanity. The last rooms of the permanent exhibition end with an upbeat recounting of the Carnation Revolution — deposing a dictatorship without firing a shot. I thought the museum struck the right tone — not too pollyanish but clear in its message that there was a good side and a bad side.
I found a public elevator I had never seen before — takes you straight down into the middle of the Alfama, the old moorish neighborhood below the castle walls. We hadn’t been down there because there are just too many uneven surfaces, ups and downs, nooks and crannies. But Joe was game, so dowon we went. We did wind up doing a fair amount of up and down through tiny narrow passageways. It is becoming quite the trendy area — lots of Air BnBs, restaurants, souvenir shops, etc, but there are still real people living there, all of whom seem to do their wash on Sunday and hang it outside.
Our plan was to walk down to the center and catch a cab back to the hotel. But there was no traffic going through the streets. I thought surely there must be some huge political demonstration going on, but after walking a mile or so up from the center towards our hotel, we saw that it was an Antique Car Association gathering that had blocked off the main drag in town and essentially stopped traffic going into the historic core. The cops we asked about it were not big fans, but some of these cars were real gems.
Finally, about two hours later and three more miles walked than hoped for, we found a cab and made it back to the hotel. Teaching starts up tomorrow bright and early.Read more

TravelerThe Museum of the Resistance reminds me of the "Museo de la memoria" here in Córdoba. So many atrocities committed by the military, so much cruelty, so much impunity. It's important to be aware of these events from the recent past. Your description of old narrow passageways being turned into hip areas reminded me of tiny houses, some dating from the Middle Ages, carefully restored, that can be seen all over Germany. Love your pictures of Lisbon.

TravelerSo, the big question might be how they got rid of the dictatorship without violence. The main answer is likely the role of the army (not all of them? I think), but I think another element was widespread strikes. Some of these were still on

Laurie ReynoldsI am no historian, as you know, but the museum did not make a big deal about public or widespread citizen unrest before the revolution, though there were panels describing student movements, the underground resistance, etc. The focus seemed to be the freedom movements in the African colonies and how those had cascading effects on the military’s resolve to continue the colonial regime. But I defer to those who know what they are talking about.
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- Day 24
- Saturday, November 19, 2022 at 6:47 AM
- 🌙 -7 °C
- Altitude: 244 m
United StatesChampaign40°6’60” N 88°15’29” W
Home again

Yesterday was travel day from hell, but we are home!
First, the fire alarm in the Marriott started going off at 2:30 in the morning and it kept on going off and on intermittently till our 4 am wake up call. By 4:30 we were out of the hotel and on the way to the airport, so I don’t know how long it kept on beeping.
The one real high point of the day was that I ran into an old UI student of mine (graduation class 2009), who has moved to Lisbon with her husband and settled there permanently. She practices law remotely with a Texas firm, and her husband does something tech related. We had a great catch-up and promised that if I make it back next year, we will get together.
That was the end of the fun. The flight from Lisbon to London was late, reducing our transfer time to 1 hour and 10 minutes. The very helpful BA flight attendant insisted Joe needed assistance, though I knew he was quite capable of walking it and am not sure why I went along with this. But it meant we had to wait till the plane emptied to deplane, only to find that the “buggy” he had ordered was not there. It arrived a few minutes later, and the driver then told us that the buggy could only take us to the spot where we had to go upstairs to go through security again. So we in essence waited 20 minutes for a 3 minute buggy ride, which would have taken Joe no more than 10, in my estimation. The line was snaking at security, but we jumped to the front. Joe and I go through different lines and for some reason his shoes had to come off while mine didn’t. And then he couldn’t find where his shoes had gone! Then rush down two levels, which are not connected by the same elevator, to get to the level for the shuttle which would take us close to our gate. As we were waiting for the shuttle, I saw that our flight was flashing “final boarding,” which made my heart sink. But I am glad we didn’t just call it quits. At that point, the shuttle arrived and emptied out, but they had to do the “security check”, a manual inspection of all five cars, which took another several minutes. We got to the gate as the agent was actually closing the first boarding door. BUT… the very nice woman called the people at the second door (a floor down from the main entrance) and told them to hold it for a few minutes. As we showed our boarding passes, mine triggered a random extra security search. But since they assured me that we were through and would make the flight, those few extra minutes just gave us time to catch our breath and look less frazzled when we actually boarded. We had not done a Heathrow transfer in many years, and you can be sure I will now avoid it at all costs.
Once we sat down, and the doors closed, nothing happened. About 15 minutes later, a very apologetic and polite British voice told us that the refrigeration system for the food wasn’t working, and they had to order some dry ice as a substitute. And then of course the mechanics had to fill out several maintenance forms, etc etc. So as a result, our flight was more than an hour late. I will say though, that the food we got was several orders of magnitude more edible than what we have had recently on American or Iberia. We even had an “afternoon tea” before touchdown, clotted cream included.
Note to self: Do not arrive in Chicago’s international arrivals on the weekend before Thanksgiving. The lines were horrendous, the luggage pick-up and drop-off area just chaotic, and the train back to the main terminal crushed worse than the sardines I brought back from Lisbon. Getting through security was another ordeal, slower than molasses, but finally we got through, only to learn that our Champaign flight would be delayed by about an hour. At that point, we just shrugged and figured the worse was over. And we are now home!Read more

TravelerHi Laurie, indeed an awful travel experience. Your Heathrow experience is par for that airport. That's my no 1 airport to avoid.I am glad you are home and Irene and I are looking forward to seeing you soon.Abrazos, Nils

Laurie ReynoldsTotally agree. But as I was navigating international arrivals in O’Hare yesterday, the Brit next to me said with amazement — “I never thought I’d find a worse airport than Heathrow, but I have!”
Nils JacobsenWhow, Laurie, a lot of sightseeing for the day on which you arrived. How many castles did the Dukes of Braganca have, apparently even befor they became kings? I thought they were from way north in Portugal?
Laurie ReynoldsWell, I did not take the tour so I don’t know the answer. They also had a palace in Guimaraes, which was on my camino this year, and I think I remember that that was the residence of the first Duque de Braganza. Then they moved here (Vila Vicosa) in the early 16C. I don’t know what the connection is between the city of Braganza and these duques. There is still one today and he claims to be Portugal’s king in waiting. Bad history lesson , sorry.
Laurie, you amaze me! After that long flight you're already out sightseeing and sharing your beautiful pictures with us. Wishing you and Joe a wonderful time and will look forward to seeing your posts.
Laurie ReynoldsWow, hi Joyce!!!!!