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camino 2017

Mei - Juli 2017
Petualangan 49-sehari oleh Laurie Baca selengkapnya

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  • Laurie Reynoldscamino 2017

    Heading back to the camino

    14 Juni 2017, Spanyol ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Almost there! I am in the Madrid airport and my flight back to Oviedo leaves in a few hours. I had a great meeting in NYC and am so glad I went, even though it was a pretty crazy thing to do.

    I didn't have much time to enjoy NYC but did have some good meals and saw some very close friends too. So all in all, it was a great little break.

    A good friend from Madrid will meet me in Oviedo tonight and we'll walk together for two days and then he heads back to work. Can't wait to be back on the camino.    Baca selengkapnya

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  • Laurie Reynoldscamino 2017

    ... in Avilés

    15 Juni 2017, Spanyol ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    My good friend Paco got to Oviedo a little before me yesterday, and we had time for a nice long walk around a beautiful park near David's old stomping grounds. Then for dinner, a plate of Asturian cheeses, YUM!

    This morning we hit the road around 7. We met a British guy walking, and after a while we realized that he thought he was on a different camino! We enjoyed walking with him to Avilés but he has now gone in search of the Camino Primitivo.

    Today's walk was quite nice. It was about 29 km with not much more than several hundred feet elevation gain. Nice countryside, very quiet roads. Even though the last 5 kms or so were along the side of a busy road, it was infinitely better than when Dana and I found ourselves on the side of a truck-filled route.

    Avilés has quite a nice historic core. I was actually surprised at all the nice squares and plazas. After another plate of Asturias cheeses, I'm now ready for bed. And very glad to be back on the camino.    Baca selengkapnya

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  • Laurie Reynoldscamino 2017
    1

    In Muros de Nalon

    16 Juni 2017, Spanyol ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    What a great day, even though too much of it was on asphalt. We have met some very nice people, Brit, Chinese, and Australian, and Paco was very sad to have to leave.

    25 km down to the beach and up to the headlands, down to the river and up into the hills, through a few towns, and there we were. A lovely Albergue, really nice.

    After washing up and changing into clean clothes (the Albergue washed our clothes for a few euros), we had a quick grilled sandwich and then hopped on the bus to go visit Cudillero, a little touristy village on the coast. So pretty, hidden in a cove, lots of climbing up and down.

    We had a great time, and then Paco had to head for the airport. He called a cab, we all piled in, and he dropped us off on his way to the airport. It was so great to see him, we had a really good time.

    So now here I sit in my Albergue in Muros de Nalon, enjoying the wonderful albergue. Tomorrow off on a short 16 km walk to Soto de Luiña maybe with a coastal detour.    Baca selengkapnya

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  • Laurie Reynoldscamino 2017

    In Soto de Luiña

    17 Juni 2017, Spanyol ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    We had a very short beautiful day today. Only 16 km, but we made it a little longer by taking a detour out to the beach where we had a long cafe con leche break in a gorgeous setting.

    The rest of the day was up and down through the countryside, green and peaceful. When the first two of us arrived at our destination we had to decide whether to look for a private place or go to the "very basic" albergue (usually code for "old and dirty"). So I scoped things out and found a very nice building of tourist apartments. Two bedrooms, bath, kitchen, balcony and living room. 70€, which turns out very reasonable for four of us. A little more than the 5€ charge for the albergue, but well worth it.

    After shower and washing clothes, three of us decided to walk the couple of kms out to the beach. Another gorgeous spot. Now we will cook dinner and have a lovely sleep. Tomorrow there's a mountain alternative that we have to rest up for!!!    Baca selengkapnya

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  • Laurie Reynoldscamino 2017

    Cadavedo

    18 Juni 2017, Spanyol ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    It just doesn't get any better than this. The four of us left the apt at about 7. After a km or two, the split came. Ann opted for the lower route, and the rest of us decided to try the mountain route. About 3000 ft total elevation gain, they told us, so not a trivial undertaking.

    It was so well worth it I can't even begin to explain. What an amazing walk. The hospitalero in Soto de Luina had been kind of discouraging about this alternative, but it is well marked, never extremely steep (except for one short rocky descent) and has unmatched views over the coast.

    We are once again in an apartment for four and all of us are quire happy. Tomorrow onward    Baca selengkapnya

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  • Laurie Reynoldscamino 2017

    Otur

    20 Juni 2017, Spanyol ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Good day, with a stop at 9 for coffee, and then a few hours to enjoy the former fishing village, current tourist town of Luarca.

    I am really impressed at how much of the camino has been moved off road. We had very little pavement and even though we didn't spend much time on the coast, there were lots of forest paths with occasional glimpses of ocean.

    A Brit, Chinese, Australian and American walk into a bar... surely there is a good joke here. I first met Alan as Paco and I were leaving Oviedo to return to the Norte. About an hour in, we kept catching glimpses of a guy a bit ahead of us and when we got close enough to talk, learned he thought he was on a different Camino. When we got to Avilés, we pointed him to the bus station and thought that was goodbye. Next day at our coffee break, who do we see but Alan!

    Percy is Chinese, a young guy studying Spanish in Barcelona. His English and Spanish are flawless. Though I've had many Chinese students, I've never felt comfortable asking them too many questions, but Percy welcomes them. We are all learning a lot about China. Ann, a retired school administrator, is about 7 years my senior. She is kind and calm. Her asthma keeps her a bit behind but she wants to walk alone anyway so we all just meet up at the end. There you have it, our little band of four.    Baca selengkapnya

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  • Laurie Reynoldscamino 2017
    1

    Very hot in La Caridad

    20 Juni 2017, Spanyol ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    This was a hot 25 km walk (32 C= high 80s F, I think). We left a little later than usual as well, 7:30, which took its toll later in the day. First a coffee stop at about 8:30, then a boots-off bench rest stop in the small city Navia, and then a sit in the shade and go buy 3 liters of Aquarius at a gas station shorter break as we geared up for the last little bit.

    This morning as we were leaving, Ann decided it would be prudent for her to take a bus rather than walk. That nagging feeling when you want to walk but know that you should not avoid the shooting pain. We thought we might not see her again. About an hour later we got a phone call from her, saying she had decided to jump ahead to our destination and had reserved us a place in the nice private albergue.

    She was there when we got here, having already made great progress on our dinner. Angel Ann! Hopefully tomorrow her foot will be better.    Baca selengkapnya

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  • Laurie Reynoldscamino 2017

    Have arrived in Galicia

    21 Juni 2017, Spanyol ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    We took a long detour today, and we walked to at least five or six amazingly beautiful beaches. This is just a gorgeous part of the country. We ran into several other pilgrims, a couple of young Americans who had just graduated from college, a Spaniard trying to find her way, and then a smattering of French and German couples.

    Each beach was more beautiful than the next, and we had a hard time picking out our favorite. At one of them, we met a very nice couple from the area. They insisted on sharing their food with us, and wanted to know all about the Camino. It was a really nice day. The entrance into town is not so nice, because it consists of walking over a bridge that is about a mile long. But here we are, and no surprise, the weather has changed. Rain is in the forecast, but we have had such a large number of beautiful walking days, that it would be really selfish to complain about a little rain now.    Baca selengkapnya

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  • Laurie Reynoldscamino 2017

    Afternoon trip to Playa Catedrales

    22 Juni 2017, Spanyol ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    One of Galicia' most visited beaches, this spot is about 18 km from Ribadeo. A coastal walking path is available, but a group of 8 of us opted for the cab option. At 15€ each way, and four in a cab, it's a very quick and affordable way to get there.

    We had found tide information on line and we're lucky that the next low tide was at 9 pm. It's very important to go at low tide. Since sunset is at 10:15, we had plenty of daylight. We got there around 8 and quickly understood why this place is so popular. In summer they limit access with a ticket system. We read that the limit on the beach at any one time in high season is 2,000. Before the tickets, the crowds reached an unimaginable 10,000! For our visit, there were people there, but nothing close to a crowd. It was a pretty great way to end the day.

    One of our little band of four is hoping that another day on the bus will be good for her feet and that she will be walking again soon. We are headed for a town about 28 km and one killer hill away.    Baca selengkapnya

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  • Laurie Reynoldscamino 2017

    In Lourenza

    22 Juni 2017, Spanyol ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    This was a 28 km walk with two fairly steep ascents. We have left the ocean behind and are now walking in Galician countryside--very green, lots of little hamlets with stone buildings, cows and pigs everywhere.

    We left at 7 from our pension. I had had a coffee with my electric coil but the two guys had not. About 9 km into the walk we ran into two guys with a donkey. They were going to put in bean poles for their bean crop. Here's an interesting tidbit--a high percentage of these famous Asturian beans,fabas, are actually grown in Galicia. The guys told us that they take care of the crops, and at harvest the Asturian bean buyers come over to Galicia to buy their beans. Under EU regulations, all that the label has to show is where the product was bagged, Not where they were grown. So most "Asturian beans" are actually from Galicia.

    After our bean chat, these two told us there was a bar 400m off the camino near where we were standing, but nothing on camino for the next 15 km. So we reluctantly took this detour for a coffee and a bocadillo.

    There were quite a few people on the camino today. A bus load of Austrians who were picked up by a luxury bus, in addition to the smattering of people we've seen this past week.

    All day it was misty and foggy but no rain. We are in the municipal albergue in a room with 10 beds. It's an ear plug night.    Baca selengkapnya

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