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Camino 2019, From IrúnCamino 2019, From Irún
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Camino 2019, From Irún

June - July 2019
June 2019 Read more

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From Irún

    First day on the Olvidado

    June 13, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C

    Yesterday I was able to walk to the priests’ house, get the keys to a 12C church in exchange for my passport, and walk up to Santa Cecilia, where there is a capital depicting the Slaughter of the Innocents that is just amazing. I am so glad I made the extra push to go see it, though it was a challenge trying to figure out how to open the door.

    Today’s 29 km seemed like s piece of cake. With total elevation gain at a very manageable 400 m, we sort of sailed through. The walk had three different parts. First up to the reservoir and around. Then through scrub brush and Holmes Oaks down to the river, and the last part along the river. Cool temps, sunny skies. We felt blessed

    Tomorrow is a long day, nearly 40 km, but we’ll leave early and take it slow.    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From Irún

    Very long day to Guardo

    June 14, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    But we made it. By 3:30 we were getting info about the albergue. Having left at 6:45, that makes for a long day. We knew it was about 38 kms (not quite 20 miles) so we were mentally prepared.

    The scenery, at least for the first 30 km, was quite nice. We went up to an old mine (where I got lost last time) and then down to what I would call a “rolling valley,” little hills surrounded by mountains. We went through five or six little towns, but not one with an open bar till about 1pm. That Kas de Limón really tasted great!!

    We made it into town only to learn it was a fiesta day here do nothing was open. Luckily the albergue owner will take care of us. We had a dinner of fried eggs, French fries, bacon and chorizo. And I ate almost every bit.

    Tomorrow is a 30 km mountain stage. Seems reasonable. We’ll see. Right now all I want to do is sleep!    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From Irún

    In Puente Almuhey.

    June 15, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    In a straight shot on the road, Guardo to Puente Almuhey is about 13 km. But on the alternative that Ender has marked it’s about 36. Having done them both now I can tell you in no uncertain terms that the long route wins hands down.

    First on road to a little town with famous Roman arches, then up through a forest to a ridge with beautiful views ( note to self—when you realize you are off your GPS tracks and in a forest on a mountain, don’t try to find creative ways to re-join the tracks. Just go back down and get back on the right track immediately.)

    About halfway is the little town of Caminayo, a beautiful little hamlet whose residents used to work in the nearby mines. It’s now a town of a couple dozen. We saw a man cutting grass and asked him if there was a bar in town. One phone call later, and Lourdes was opening up the Centro Social and making us coffee. We had a really lovely stop.

    Then about 23 km down and we are now in Puente Almuhey. The Albergue has been closed due to some bureaucratic irregularities so we are in the gorgeous apartamentos turísticos Carricuende. Hard to believe that for 20 euros you get a private room, sheets and towels, washing machine, and breakfast in the bar they own next door. We have a 22 km day tomorrow, so we didn’t even bother to ask if we could have breakfast before their normal opening time of 8 am!    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From Irún

    5 star day to Cistierna

    June 16, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    What are the odds—we got to the hotel around 2 pm and as I am checking in, the woman said to me —I remember you, you were here a few years ago and had a tick in your back. Yep, that was me.

    It was a perfect day. Coffee at 8 AM, a short 23 km to walk. Sunny, cool, lovely views of the mountains, a few ancient churches (One with a prominent carving of Santiago the moor slayer), great rest stops.

    My favorite bit of history from today is the story of the two mermaids engraved on the wall of a little church. Legend has it that two peregrinas walking to Santiago seduced some monks, And when the Abbot found out he was very angry. He turned the women into two mermaids and threw them into the river nearby. The guilty monks had to build a new church, putting the mermaid statues in the wall to remind them of their sins.    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From Irún

    28 km to Boñar

    June 17, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    We left right at 7, and have met two others walking the Olvidado. That’s good news for me because Alun is going to leave in a day or two. The beginning was lovely, the morning sun on the bridge over the Esla River so nice.

    Then it became more slog-like. Not one bar or cage open the entire stage. Then I took a hard fall on a rocky descent (nothing broken or too whacked up apparently). Then two huge menacing sheep dogs blocked our way till the flock was well out of range. So it was not exactly a five star day.

    But then little by little things picked up. First, we stopped to rest in the same little covered bench where I had been five years ago and remember getting a phone call from my buddy Lee out of the blue at that very spot. Then in a little village,, a woman working i her yard insisted we sit and have a cold drink and regaled us with questions about this Camino.

    And then to top things off, just as I went down to the checkin floor of our little hostal, my buddy Ender showed up to have lunch with us. Ender is his “screen name”, better known as the guy who single handedly revived the Salvador and now is trying to do the same with the Olvidado If anyone can do it, it will be him.

    So on balance I would say that my no good very bad day turned into another A+ good time.

    The only disappointing factoid is that the weather has changed, and a mix of clouds and rain is in the forecast.    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From Irún
    1

    From blah to wow

    June 18, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    We left a little after 7. Having a day with 28 km in the mountains is a lot, as we learned on the Vasco. At first we followed the valley to get us behind the foothills. Then up and up, gently at first and then steep and rocky. As we reached the top, the valley spread out behind us. And then, another couple hundred meters huffing and puffing up up up, and bam we were in the mountains. It was one of those wow, indescribable moments. Packs off, sit down and absorb the beauty. We spent a while up here.

    From there we had a very gradual descent followed by another ascent to a different set of peaks. The views were gorgeous in all directions. When we finally got down to a little village, we had about 7 more km on an untraveled road till we got to Vegacervera, where we are staying in an albergue. It’s an outdoor camp for kids, but it’s not full so there is one cabin for peregrinos and the rest for the school kids.

    Ender drove over to see us, and he took us to a great restaurant for a late lunch. Then a little trip up to a nearby river gorge. Maybe that’s where the word “gorgeous” comes from because that’s an apt description.    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From Irún

    Short stage, many hours

    June 19, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    It is only about 24 kms from Vegacervera to Pola de Gordon, but even though we left around 7:15, three hours later we were only about 10 km along, sitting in a bar in Ciñera, drinking an Aquarius.

    We had just completed the most difficult descent I have ever had the pleasure of walking on any Camino. In hindsight it was really a bit dangerous, but once you get going it’s hard to justify going back up, especially when you don’t know how to find your way back to the Camino. One pole each, ginger baby steps, and we made it.

    Once at the bottom we went through a narrow gorge and emerged in a magical beech forest. Continuing on we passed a closed mine shaft and, now on a cart track, easily made it into the town of Ciñera with a very welcome bar.

    This former mining town has fallen on very hard times, and in the square there is a sad reminder of the perils of mining.

    I had an Aquarius to celebrate what I thought would be the end of my walking troubles. Little did we now that after our next steep ascent we would be in a hilly undulating meadow with no discernible path. In cases like these the GPS can only help so much. The accuracy is a band of about 9 feet, so when you don’t see a path it’s very hard to pick your way ahead in the general direction you know you have to go.

    But once again, post shower it all blends into the camino glow and I am sure that whatever food we can find in this small town will be exceptional!    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From Irún
    1

    High point

    June 20, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Today was an amazing walk. I know, I’ve said that many times already. We went to 1900 m high (with only about a 700 m ascent and nothing too steep). The high point was spectacular.

    The descent was also quite gradual, and then we arrived at the Calderones, a geological wonder. It was like walking on the moon —very rocky, with lots of amazing formations. For the first couple of kms, we walked alongside a beautiful stream. Suddenly it disappeared and we were walking in the river bed. It was eerily silent. Then a few kms along, the stream burst out of the rocks and we followed it for several more kms.

    All in all a great walk. The last 6 km on asphalt didn’t even feel bad on my feet because of my cushy trail runners. I am in a Hostal in La Magdalena because the albergue doesn’t have any showers. Sorry if that makes me a pampered Peregrina.

    Alun has left on the bus to Leon. No other pilgrims here yet but I hope there will be some. Fingers crossed.    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From Irún
    2

    First day alone

    June 20, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    This was a great day to get back into solitary walking, which I love. But it does take some getting used to after two weeks walking with a great camino buddy. Coffee in the room, on the road at 7.

    The whole day was virtually all off road with no roads or towns visible. Good prolonged ascent, a couple of tiny towns, lots of wide open views, and a bar for an Aquarius at km 17 four hours later. It had rained hard last night but there was very little mud.

    The rest of the walking day went quickly. It was a few kms on asphalt but minimal. Lots of beautiful riverside paths, up through oak forests, far from cars and highways.

    I am in a town with no cell service, but it has an albergue taken care of by the local association. And a little bar where two old women (85 and 83 yo) serve great meals. All is good.    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From Irún

    Campo de Santiago

    June 22, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Today I passed through the battlefield where St. James the Moorslayer (the non-pc alter ego of StJames the pilgrim) came back to life during the Reconquest and killed tens of thousands of Moors . Despite that awful image, it’s a beautiful spot.

    I left Vegarienza very early because my plan was to combine two short days into one and to split it up with a visit to Rosi, the woman who runs the Albergue in the middle. I wound up spending two hours there catching up. Five years ago, things were touch and go when I walked through. Now, the family is doing great. It was a really nice visit.

    But it did make for a very long 38 km day. And the big ascent came right after my visit with Rosi. I should have been rested but it was hard. By 4:30, though, after a Kas Limón break in the town with the longest name in all of Spain, I was checking into the Albergue. It’s very nice —lots of hot water and real sheets. That’s albergue luxury.

    And the restaurant across the street is making me an ensalada mixta and some fried eggs so I will be happy and full in a few minutes.    Read more

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