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Christmas in Italy 2018

December 2018 - January 2019
A 27-day adventure by Laurie Read more
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  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018
    Day 10

    Chill-axing in Sorrento

    December 29, 2018 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    So while one of us went early to the fitness center, the other slept till about 9. Our lazy breakfast, with TWO cappuccinos, made us one of the last to leave the breakfast room. Then we walked and walked and enjoyed the port, the old town, the many Nativity scenes, and of course another coffee.

    At around 2:30, I deposited Joe in an old cafe with good panini and gelato, and I left him there while I went to the laundromat. Very efficient, and we are now set for the second half of the trip. Then more strolling along the water. There are some very fancy hotels with lovely verandas and views. Since no one seemed to mind our presence, we enjoyed seeing how the other half enjoys Sorrento.

    One last dinner here tonight. We have had three excellent meals, in Tasso, La Favorita, and Zi’Antonio, and are hoping for one more. Great fish and pasta in all three!    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018
    3
    Day 11

    Moved over to Amalfi

    December 30, 2018 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    A 20 mile trip from Sorrento to Amalfi takes 90 minutes on the bus — but don’t think you’d get there any faster driving it yoursef. The road twists and turns and twists again, along the coast. Since we already had visited Positano from Sorrento, we just stayed on the bus all the way to the charming, but VERY busy, town of Amalfi. If this is the off-season, I hate to think what it looks like in summer, but I am sure there is a burst of tourists between Christmas and New Years.

    We’re in an old hotel on the main square, with a view over the 12th century duomo (cathedral). That became a less attractive location when we learned there will be an all night party in the square tomorrow. (There’s another folkloric concert on the steps of the cathedral as I write, but it ends at 7 pm!). I knew about and was looking forward to the fireworks on the water, but had no idea that the concerts would begin after that. I should have brought my ear plugs from my Camino bag, I guess. Well, we hadn’t planned to do much on Jan. 1 anyway.

    This afternoon we visited an old paper-making factory, and by old, I mean 13th century old. Paper made of cotton fibers, not wood pulp. We saw the original pulp-making machine, as well as the 15th century newer version, as well as the 18th century one, all powered by water. They coated it in gelatin made from rabbit to make it less absorbent. And then hung it to dry for months!    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018
    Day 12

    Up to Ravello

    December 31, 2018 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    Ravello is about 4 km and 500 m up, a good aerobic walk! So I walked while Joe took the bus. We met up top and after the obligatory cappucino, we visited the Cathedral (some beautiful mosaics) and the Villa Rufolo (an old hodge podge of buildings from the XII century onward, bought by a rich guy and restored in the 19th century— the main attraction was the VIEWS!!!). Absolutely gorgeous views from up there.

    Trying to get good information on bus options down was nearly impossible, since it is New Year’s Eve. So a group of 8 piled into a cab and in a few minutes we were back in Amalfi.

    All of the restaurants are booked with gala dinners, so we have found a little enoteca that will feed us some dinner as long as we are out by 9:30. We hope to see the fireworks from the seaside promenade, but I fear that thousands of others will have the same idea!

    Wishing everyone a very Happy New Year!    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018
    Day 12

    Happy 2019!

    December 31, 2018 in Italy ⋅ 🌬 12 °C

    Very good dinner in the little enoteca, though we could have stopped eating after the antipasti. But I guess it is a night for wretched excess.

    It is a very good thing we squeezed in a few hours’ nap before the fireworks, because the concert in the square went on till 4 or 5. I didn’t even bother to look at my watch when it finally ended, I was just so relieved to hear the silence.

    At about 11:30, we awoke to the sound of traditional music, and followed a long procession of music-makers in traditional dress out to the beach. Then the fireworks (they were super!), with a return procession to the cathedral. At that point, the traditional music gave way to loud loud loud. First a live band (I was so happy to hear someone say what sounded like “last song” in Italian, only to realize that it was just the last live song and. a DJ had taken over). Though I wouldn’t say I reallly enjoyed the music, it was fun to see the square filled with so many others who were.

    I woke up around 8, to another day of brilliant sunshine, and was surprised to see that though the light and sound equipment was still up, the square was spotless. Amalfi takes its public places very seriously.    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018
    Day 13

    Architecture, Music, and a Hike

    January 1, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    What a very nice way to start 2019– first, a visit to the cathedral (unfortunately the stunning romanesque facade was not matched with a similar interior — on orders of some king, the whole inside got a baroque make-over). St. Andrew is buried here, and his remains are reported to undergo a similar annual miracle as San Gennaro in Naples — instead of his blood liquifying, it is some substance that oozes out of the container of his remains. Rather grotesque, actually, but I get the role that faith plays in these things and in the lives of the congregants.

    Then a surprise — a chamber orchestra playing all sorts of music in a free concert inside the basilica. Our favorites were the various opera pieces — all very well known, from Carmen, Merry Widow, Granada, a few more. We enjoyed it a lot.

    From there, time to walk. Up, up, up again, just as high as yesterday, but to another town, Pontone, which looks across a gorge at Ravello. In Pontone, luckily, we found an unexceptional pizzeria open, so Joe could sit and eat while I went on to the Torre dello Ziro, and up to the ruined church of Sant Eustacio. Unfortunately, the site was closed —I would really have liked to see the apse up close.

    Back down just as the sun was setting — time to think about dinner options. Lots of restaurants seem to be closed, but there are crowds in the square outside our room again, enjoying more folklore. I am pretty sure there will not be late night concerts, at least I am hoping that’s the case!    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018
    Day 14

    Moving on to Salerno

    January 2, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    Salerno is not exactly a highly renowned tourist stop, but it is the easternmost point of the Amalfi Coast and a convenient way to get up to Rome. And there are some very highly recommended Greek temples about an hour from here, so we decided to make Salerno a stop. It has a huge port and an ancient centro historico. The Allies invaded Italy here, but unfortunately the small museum documenting the event was closed.

    The bus ride from Amalfi to Salerno was another one of those 90 minute rides to go 25 kms. This time we had several points where two buses met head on and there was simply no way for them to maneuver. It involved backing up, stopping traffic, and eventually squeezing by with only inches to spare. The ride was beautiful, but there is no way in the world I would want to drive it — the bus was scary enough.

    In Salerno, we found our little B and B in the old town and were out and about in plenty of time for lunch. At Mamma Rosa’s, we found ourselves in with lots of regular diners. A very popular place, Mamma Rosa is still there, and her quote on the wall is “I love cooking more than anything except my children.” Watching her interact with what must have been her grandkids gave credence to that quote.

    Afternoon was spent at the amazing 11th century cathedral, where the apostle Matthew is buried (the apostle Andrew is in Amalfi, so this must be a popular area for apostles). The mosaics were gorgeous.

    Then to the archaeological museum, where the 2nd century BC bronze head of Apollo was the standout.

    We are in a weird little place, picked because it is about 4 minutes from Novella Fitness, where I was able to use the elliptical for a mere 7 euros! Dinner in another totally crammed and popular place, Irys, where they had just run out of red wine (in Italy?!) but the food was very good.    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018
    Day 15

    Paestum!!! Wow!!!

    January 3, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 4 °C

    One half hour, 2.90 euros each way, and the Regionale train takes you to Paestum, the ruins of a Greek city from about 5th century BC. Three large temples remain intact, with the residential area, forum, baths,theater in ruins. One of the temples is roped off, but you can walk throuh the other two. Amazing.

    We had bright sunny, cold weather (in fact, on the way back to the train, a few snowflakes started to fall). Crowds were very moderate —two big groups of American college students, one tour bus of Italians, and about 50 others like Joe and I, straggling along on our own.

    The museum had many artifacts from graves, and some of the painted grave slabs themselves, including one that appears to be quite famous, The Diver. Lots of urns, statues of gods and goddesses, with very nice information panels, in both Italian and English for a change.There was a short video about the Allies´ WWII invasion, Operation Avalanche, which took place near Paestum. The Brits brought their own archaeologist, and while constructing an airstrip, an ancient burial site was found (by ancient, I mean really ancient, like Iron Age). He documented it all, excavated and tagged all artifacts. Turned them over to the Napples Archaeological authorities at the end of the war. The film ended with a comment along the lines of — it is a treasure for humanity that the British realized that preserving ancient history was just as important as winning the war.

    This is the end of the planned trip. When I was buying the plane tickets, it seemed like a shame to get on a plane in Rome without spending some time there. So we have a hotel reservation for four nights, an old Michelin Rome guide from our 1995 trip with the kids, and a recent 36 Hours in Rome article. Just hoping to have good weather for walking and short lines in front of whatever we decide to visit.    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018
    Day 15

    Osteria dei Sapori -- Salerno

    January 3, 2019 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 2 °C

    So if you dream of eating in a non-touristy, small, family-run osteria in Italy, this is the place for you. In a 7-table place, with food options written on a piece of paper, we were the only foreigners over the two hours we were there. The entire operation took place in one small room. Dad was the cook, mom his assistant, daughter did everything else (except wash the dishes—there was a woman over in the corner continuously washing and drying). The food was excellent, the family so hospitable, and even with the most expensive bottle of wine at 25 euros, our bill was 80 euros. And that was with two courses each, and one dessert.

    Very nice way to end our stay here.    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018
    Day 16

    Still cold, but sunny in Rome

    January 4, 2019 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 2 °C

    Lesson to self: Buy fast train tickets a few days in advance. We could only get seats on the 10:40 “intercity” train, and to add insult to injury, we sat on the tracks somewhere between Palermo and Rome for 45 minutes. Luckily, I have a couple of good books. We didn’t get to our Rome hotel till about 2 in the afternoon, had a quick lunch, and walked around for a couple of hours to get our bearings. We are in a good location, not far from Trajan’s column. The Trevi Fountain was mobbed mobbed mobbed, much more crowded than my pictures showed from spring break 1995.

    Planning to get a good fish dinner and plan a walking route for tomorrow. Probably no museums tomorrow, but we will see. Three days in Rome is not much time, but we will do our best.    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018
    Day 17

    Walk till you drop

    January 5, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    Today was our walk walk walk day with no museums. But we did start with a church (Santa Maria in Trastevere) and end with a church (Santa Maria Maggiore), because both of them had amazing mosaics spanning the 5th - 12th centuries. In between we just walked and enjoyed the sunny day — along the river, to St. Peter’s (the crowds and the lines even to get into the basilica made us decide to skip an inside visit), to Hadrian´s mauseoulum, to Piazza Navona, the Pantheon, the Colosseum, many ruins of temples, forums, and theaters.

    Since last night’s dinner at Crispi 19 was very good but just too much pretense (many different waiters for different functions, including one whose only job seemed to be to use that bread-crumb-remover on the tablecloths), we’re looking for something above paper tablecloths, but not fine linen.

    Only two more days here, and I guess it’s only fair that tomorrow I go along to the National Museum, since Joe was such a good sport today.    Read more

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