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Christmas in Italy 2018
  • Laurie Reynolds

Christmas in Italy 2018

A 27-day adventure by Laurie Read more
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  • Trip start
    December 20, 2018
    Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018Laurie Reynolds
    Home Alone!!!!!
    Liberty Bell made of Legos

    Travel Day

    December 19, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C

    I decided to get up at 3 am and go to the gym before we left for the airport. (Silver Sneakers is the best part of Medicare — all sorts of gyms all over the country are free!). I had also considered going to the Hilton fitness center in O’Hare, since we were supposed to have such a long layover. But our flight to Chicago was delayed for an hour, which made our layover too short for a gym run. So I am glad I chose the nutty option. And I am hoping I will be better able to sleep tonight on the flight to Rome!

    In Chicago, we got to go to the fancy new American lounge since we are flying international. It is really nice, lots of food and drink, so we were able to eat a regular meal. Then a hop to Philadelphia, where we are in the regular old lounge because their fancy one has not yet opened. Really roughing it in PHL :-) (I don’t pay for this btw, I get in for free when I fly international because of my miles)

    So in an hour we will be on our way. Arriving in Roma around 9 am, and then hopping on a bus or train to Naples. All is well!    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018Laurie Reynolds

    Archaeological Museum -- First stop!

    December 21, 2018 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    We slept from about 9 till 10 (that’s pm till am) and now seem to be firmly set on Italian time. First stop, Archaeological Museum. If you thought all Roman statues were headless and armless, that’s just because the Italians kept all the good stuff for themselves. Three and a half hours there went fast — tiny figures and vessels, frescoes from Pompeii houses, statuary and mosaics from Herculaneum, it was awesome.

    Lunch in a tiny cafe - the array of vegetables on display attracted us. Then we walked through the oldest part of the city, went several stories down below to Greek and Roman ruins, and then came upon a pretty famous street selling Nativity creches and figures for sale (no longer made inside their 18th century storefronts, now from China, but still fun to walk around).

    This city is chaotic and crazy, run down and gritty. It is full of people gesticulating madly, risking their lives as the cross streets with a million motos, cars, buses, and the occasional ambulance or police car with sirens that gets no respect. I know some people don’t like Naples, but I think it is great.

    Off to the fitness center, while Joe rests. Pizza tonight! After all, Naples is where it all began.    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018Laurie Reynolds

    First pizza in Naples

    December 21, 2018 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Well, I will just slip in a few pictures of the pizza and the Pizzeria Antillo. Great recommendation from our hotel. Totally delicious. Joe had one with squash and mushrooms, I had a special “8 star” pizza with fresh ricotta pockets in each star.

    Feeling totally sated, and totally safe, in Naples. But I did find a little irony in the “Merry Christmas” lights over the piles of garbage.    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018Laurie Reynolds
    1

    Saturday before Christmas in Naples

    December 22, 2018 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Before falling into the moving masses through the old quarter, we decided to get our culture in first. First stop, the Palace (now Art Museum) way up high in Capodimonte. I think I will be fine if I never go through another Bourbon palace (Though the grand piano playing in the ballroom was very pretty), but it was nice to see those familiar Carlos-es who were also king of Spain. Even a couple of Goyas. Carvaggio, Titian, El Greco, Breughel, lots of madonnas and saints. Titian’s portraits of the pope Paul III were probably my favorites, and then way up on the fourth floor hidden away — Andy Warhol’s Vesuvius erupting!

    From there we walked down to the Catacombs of San Gennaro, patron saint of Naples. Even though he was not from Naples, when he made Vesuvius stop erupting, he became their patron. His bones have moved around a bit, but we saw their original 4th century resting place. Graves were from 3rd century onward, till sometime in the middle ages, when a church edict required all bodies to be moved because they were too close to the growing city. San Gennaro’s blood miraculously liquifies three times a year at special masses, but the church has not allowed for scientific examination.

    All cultured out, we walked back down to the historic center, a mad crush of people shopping and eating. Street food is sold at least every ten feet in one stall or another. Joe had a very delicious pistacchio canolo. We visited a couple of elaborate nativity scenes, some mechanical, and all beautiful.

    Dinner tonight will be in a nearby osteria recommended by the hotel, well known for fish.    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018Laurie Reynolds

    Churches and street food

    December 23, 2018 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    So, somehow I deleted this post, but I will try again. Today was a day of churches, including the Duomo (16-18th century cathedral, with its far more interesting 4th century baptistry with its ancient mosaics)), the chapel of San Severo (where a sculptor figured out how to make veils over bodies with one piece of marble, and a visit to the Contemporary Art Museum and its exhibit of Maplethorpe photos (the rest of the installations were the kind of thing unitiatated people like me would say things like —my grandkids could do this!). We walked for miles and miles, eating a lot of street food, and having lunch at a recommended place where people shouted and gesticulated to get what they wanted. As you might imagine, it took us a long time.

    We are thoroughly enjoying Naples, and recommend it to people who are not looking for prettified places to go.    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018Laurie Reynolds

    On the boat to Ischia

    December 24, 2018 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    No churches and no museums today. We took about an hour ferry ride to the island of Ischia, Capri’s poor relation. But it figures prominently in Elena Ferrante’s books, so I wanted to visit. Anyway, we are probably more Ischia types than Capri types. We spent the day walking — on the sand, on a promenade, through the main town. We went a couple of kms to a huge “castle on a rock.” Called the Castelo Aragonés, it has a history going back to 500 BC, but the current buildings are from the 16th -17th century. Nothing much to walk through, but it is a pretty impressive complex from outside.

    One thing I was not prepared for was the mobs of young people out in their finest, drinking and smoking in the street next to the bars. We had to push our way through crowds of kids as we went down the row of restaurants along the port looking for something without blaring music. We finally found one — the restaurant at the very tip was relatively quiet and had space for us. But then we had to push our way back through to get to the dock for our boat home. Everyone was very jolly and celebratory, but I was surprised because I thought Christmas was more of a close family celebration in Italy.

    Home by 7, and happy to see that we had apparently missed a serious rainfall because of all the puddles. There are apparently a few restaurants open along the main drag a few minutes away, so we will cross our fingers and head out.

    Merry Christmas to everyone, it has been great to Facetime with grandkids and hope to do more of that tomorrow!    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018Laurie Reynolds

    Christmas Day in Napoli

    December 25, 2018 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    For the last four days, we have turned left when leaving our hotel, and have explored the Greek, Roman, and medieval part of Naples. Turns out that if your turn right,you will jump ahead a few centuries and find yourself on 19th century promenades along the sea with 12th century castles guarding the harbor. We visited the San Carlos opera house, the fascist looking Piaza dei Plebescito, and then the glorious promenade, with Vescuvius on one side and many happy Neapolitan families on the other, all enjoying the fabulous Christmas Day weather.

    We even took a quick detour to Piazza dei Martiri, the place where Lila’s shoe store is located in the Ferrante books. And guess what, there is a fancy shoe store named Ferrante near the square. I assume that is where the author got her nom de plume, very mysterious.

    We had a fancy Christmas meal in an old hotel along the ocean. Some forced formality, but all in all a delicious meal. Best lasagna I have ever eaten — with porcini mushrooms and truffles; and the desserts were pretty awesome too.

    Sorry to say that we are leaving Naples tomorrow, heading to Sorrento. From all accounts, it is sanitized and tourist-trap-py, but its location makes it a good spot for visiting Pompeii and Herculaneum.

    The receptionist in our hotel tells us that Rick Steves has told people not to go to Naples. I personally think that that one comment, if true, disqualifies him as an “Italy expert.”

    Merry Christmas one and all!    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018Laurie Reynolds

    To Sorrento

    December 26, 2018 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    We moved over to Sorrento for the next few days and will visit Pompeii and Herculaneum from here. Much easier and less hectic.

    So by 11, we were in our hotel. The room wouldn’t be ready for a few hours, and since it was a gorgeous day, we hopped on a bus to Positano. It’s the first major town on the Amalfi Coast. Wow wow wow. Just gorgeous. Nothing much to do except walk and eat, and luckily we enjoy both those things.

    Tomorrow Pompeii.    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018Laurie Reynolds

    Day in Pompeii

    December 27, 2018 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

    Today’s destination was about a half hour from Sorrento on the commuter train, the Circumvesuviana. We were inside the ruins by around10:30 and didn’t leave till the 4:17 return train home. So it was a long day, many miles of walking no doubt, from the foro to the Villa Misteri with its beautiful frescoes of a young girl being inducted into a forbidden cult, to the amphitheater, through temples, baths, bars, markets, we walked and walked and walked! Rick Steves got my admiration again, since we used his podcast walking tour and it was very good, chock full of information, and easy to follow. Only negative was that by the time we were hungry, we were a long way from the only open restaurant (having followed signs to another one that was locked up tight,grrrr.) So our lunch consisted of bananas, oranges, and some old American Airlines cookies I found in the bottom of my pack!

    We will reward outselves with a good dinner in about an hour. Great day, beautiful weather.    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018Laurie Reynolds

    To Herculaneum

    December 28, 2018 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    Back on the 9:37 commuter train, this time to Herculaneum. This is a much smaller place than Pompeii, it was basically a residential town for about 20,000 people. This city was covered in lava, not volcanic ash like Pompeii. Lots of small shops, not much grandiosity, lots of homes with their peristyles and frescoed chambers. The saddest thing was the old boat huts down by what used to the beach. Many people rushed to take cover there, and the skeletons are left just as they were found. We enjoyed it very much, and this time had thought to bring fruit and nuts, yoghurt, oranges, and some chocolate (which is what I always carry on the camino, coincidentally!). Of course, wouldn’t you know it, this time there was a little cafe right there, but no way was I going to lug the food back to the hotel.

    Since Herculaneum is so much smaller, we had seen about everything after about 3 1/2 hours and decided to get the 3:15 train back to Sorrento. Clever travelers that we are, we had no idea that more than one line ran on those tracks, and sure enough, we got on the wrong train. I noticed the mistake about three stops later, and learned that we would have to get off and go back. No big deal, except that for some reason, the next train was cancelled, but we finally rolled into Sorrento around 6 pm instead of our hoped-for 4 pm! But hey, it’s not every day that you can stand and wait in dusk with Vesuvius in the background! Luckily, I had my book, Americanah (loving it), to keep me occupied!

    Well, that will just make for a late dinner, and since tomorrow is a “rest day” (another familiar camino technique) we can sleep in and lollygag around Sorrento.    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018Laurie Reynolds

    Chill-axing in Sorrento

    December 29, 2018 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    So while one of us went early to the fitness center, the other slept till about 9. Our lazy breakfast, with TWO cappuccinos, made us one of the last to leave the breakfast room. Then we walked and walked and enjoyed the port, the old town, the many Nativity scenes, and of course another coffee.

    At around 2:30, I deposited Joe in an old cafe with good panini and gelato, and I left him there while I went to the laundromat. Very efficient, and we are now set for the second half of the trip. Then more strolling along the water. There are some very fancy hotels with lovely verandas and views. Since no one seemed to mind our presence, we enjoyed seeing how the other half enjoys Sorrento.

    One last dinner here tonight. We have had three excellent meals, in Tasso, La Favorita, and Zi’Antonio, and are hoping for one more. Great fish and pasta in all three!    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018Laurie Reynolds
    3

    Moved over to Amalfi

    December 30, 2018 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    A 20 mile trip from Sorrento to Amalfi takes 90 minutes on the bus — but don’t think you’d get there any faster driving it yoursef. The road twists and turns and twists again, along the coast. Since we already had visited Positano from Sorrento, we just stayed on the bus all the way to the charming, but VERY busy, town of Amalfi. If this is the off-season, I hate to think what it looks like in summer, but I am sure there is a burst of tourists between Christmas and New Years.

    We’re in an old hotel on the main square, with a view over the 12th century duomo (cathedral). That became a less attractive location when we learned there will be an all night party in the square tomorrow. (There’s another folkloric concert on the steps of the cathedral as I write, but it ends at 7 pm!). I knew about and was looking forward to the fireworks on the water, but had no idea that the concerts would begin after that. I should have brought my ear plugs from my Camino bag, I guess. Well, we hadn’t planned to do much on Jan. 1 anyway.

    This afternoon we visited an old paper-making factory, and by old, I mean 13th century old. Paper made of cotton fibers, not wood pulp. We saw the original pulp-making machine, as well as the 15th century newer version, as well as the 18th century one, all powered by water. They coated it in gelatin made from rabbit to make it less absorbent. And then hung it to dry for months!    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018Laurie Reynolds

    Up to Ravello

    December 31, 2018 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    Ravello is about 4 km and 500 m up, a good aerobic walk! So I walked while Joe took the bus. We met up top and after the obligatory cappucino, we visited the Cathedral (some beautiful mosaics) and the Villa Rufolo (an old hodge podge of buildings from the XII century onward, bought by a rich guy and restored in the 19th century— the main attraction was the VIEWS!!!). Absolutely gorgeous views from up there.

    Trying to get good information on bus options down was nearly impossible, since it is New Year’s Eve. So a group of 8 piled into a cab and in a few minutes we were back in Amalfi.

    All of the restaurants are booked with gala dinners, so we have found a little enoteca that will feed us some dinner as long as we are out by 9:30. We hope to see the fireworks from the seaside promenade, but I fear that thousands of others will have the same idea!

    Wishing everyone a very Happy New Year!    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018Laurie Reynolds

    Happy 2019!

    December 31, 2018 in Italy ⋅ 🌬 12 °C

    Very good dinner in the little enoteca, though we could have stopped eating after the antipasti. But I guess it is a night for wretched excess.

    It is a very good thing we squeezed in a few hours’ nap before the fireworks, because the concert in the square went on till 4 or 5. I didn’t even bother to look at my watch when it finally ended, I was just so relieved to hear the silence.

    At about 11:30, we awoke to the sound of traditional music, and followed a long procession of music-makers in traditional dress out to the beach. Then the fireworks (they were super!), with a return procession to the cathedral. At that point, the traditional music gave way to loud loud loud. First a live band (I was so happy to hear someone say what sounded like “last song” in Italian, only to realize that it was just the last live song and. a DJ had taken over). Though I wouldn’t say I reallly enjoyed the music, it was fun to see the square filled with so many others who were.

    I woke up around 8, to another day of brilliant sunshine, and was surprised to see that though the light and sound equipment was still up, the square was spotless. Amalfi takes its public places very seriously.    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018Laurie Reynolds

    Architecture, Music, and a Hike

    January 1, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    What a very nice way to start 2019– first, a visit to the cathedral (unfortunately the stunning romanesque facade was not matched with a similar interior — on orders of some king, the whole inside got a baroque make-over). St. Andrew is buried here, and his remains are reported to undergo a similar annual miracle as San Gennaro in Naples — instead of his blood liquifying, it is some substance that oozes out of the container of his remains. Rather grotesque, actually, but I get the role that faith plays in these things and in the lives of the congregants.

    Then a surprise — a chamber orchestra playing all sorts of music in a free concert inside the basilica. Our favorites were the various opera pieces — all very well known, from Carmen, Merry Widow, Granada, a few more. We enjoyed it a lot.

    From there, time to walk. Up, up, up again, just as high as yesterday, but to another town, Pontone, which looks across a gorge at Ravello. In Pontone, luckily, we found an unexceptional pizzeria open, so Joe could sit and eat while I went on to the Torre dello Ziro, and up to the ruined church of Sant Eustacio. Unfortunately, the site was closed —I would really have liked to see the apse up close.

    Back down just as the sun was setting — time to think about dinner options. Lots of restaurants seem to be closed, but there are crowds in the square outside our room again, enjoying more folklore. I am pretty sure there will not be late night concerts, at least I am hoping that’s the case!    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018Laurie Reynolds

    Moving on to Salerno

    January 2, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    Salerno is not exactly a highly renowned tourist stop, but it is the easternmost point of the Amalfi Coast and a convenient way to get up to Rome. And there are some very highly recommended Greek temples about an hour from here, so we decided to make Salerno a stop. It has a huge port and an ancient centro historico. The Allies invaded Italy here, but unfortunately the small museum documenting the event was closed.

    The bus ride from Amalfi to Salerno was another one of those 90 minute rides to go 25 kms. This time we had several points where two buses met head on and there was simply no way for them to maneuver. It involved backing up, stopping traffic, and eventually squeezing by with only inches to spare. The ride was beautiful, but there is no way in the world I would want to drive it — the bus was scary enough.

    In Salerno, we found our little B and B in the old town and were out and about in plenty of time for lunch. At Mamma Rosa’s, we found ourselves in with lots of regular diners. A very popular place, Mamma Rosa is still there, and her quote on the wall is “I love cooking more than anything except my children.” Watching her interact with what must have been her grandkids gave credence to that quote.

    Afternoon was spent at the amazing 11th century cathedral, where the apostle Matthew is buried (the apostle Andrew is in Amalfi, so this must be a popular area for apostles). The mosaics were gorgeous.

    Then to the archaeological museum, where the 2nd century BC bronze head of Apollo was the standout.

    We are in a weird little place, picked because it is about 4 minutes from Novella Fitness, where I was able to use the elliptical for a mere 7 euros! Dinner in another totally crammed and popular place, Irys, where they had just run out of red wine (in Italy?!) but the food was very good.    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018Laurie Reynolds

    Paestum!!! Wow!!!

    January 3, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 4 °C

    One half hour, 2.90 euros each way, and the Regionale train takes you to Paestum, the ruins of a Greek city from about 5th century BC. Three large temples remain intact, with the residential area, forum, baths,theater in ruins. One of the temples is roped off, but you can walk throuh the other two. Amazing.

    We had bright sunny, cold weather (in fact, on the way back to the train, a few snowflakes started to fall). Crowds were very moderate —two big groups of American college students, one tour bus of Italians, and about 50 others like Joe and I, straggling along on our own.

    The museum had many artifacts from graves, and some of the painted grave slabs themselves, including one that appears to be quite famous, The Diver. Lots of urns, statues of gods and goddesses, with very nice information panels, in both Italian and English for a change.There was a short video about the Allies´ WWII invasion, Operation Avalanche, which took place near Paestum. The Brits brought their own archaeologist, and while constructing an airstrip, an ancient burial site was found (by ancient, I mean really ancient, like Iron Age). He documented it all, excavated and tagged all artifacts. Turned them over to the Napples Archaeological authorities at the end of the war. The film ended with a comment along the lines of — it is a treasure for humanity that the British realized that preserving ancient history was just as important as winning the war.

    This is the end of the planned trip. When I was buying the plane tickets, it seemed like a shame to get on a plane in Rome without spending some time there. So we have a hotel reservation for four nights, an old Michelin Rome guide from our 1995 trip with the kids, and a recent 36 Hours in Rome article. Just hoping to have good weather for walking and short lines in front of whatever we decide to visit.    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018Laurie Reynolds

    Osteria dei Sapori -- Salerno

    January 3, 2019 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 2 °C

    So if you dream of eating in a non-touristy, small, family-run osteria in Italy, this is the place for you. In a 7-table place, with food options written on a piece of paper, we were the only foreigners over the two hours we were there. The entire operation took place in one small room. Dad was the cook, mom his assistant, daughter did everything else (except wash the dishes—there was a woman over in the corner continuously washing and drying). The food was excellent, the family so hospitable, and even with the most expensive bottle of wine at 25 euros, our bill was 80 euros. And that was with two courses each, and one dessert.

    Very nice way to end our stay here.    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018Laurie Reynolds

    Still cold, but sunny in Rome

    January 4, 2019 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 2 °C

    Lesson to self: Buy fast train tickets a few days in advance. We could only get seats on the 10:40 “intercity” train, and to add insult to injury, we sat on the tracks somewhere between Palermo and Rome for 45 minutes. Luckily, I have a couple of good books. We didn’t get to our Rome hotel till about 2 in the afternoon, had a quick lunch, and walked around for a couple of hours to get our bearings. We are in a good location, not far from Trajan’s column. The Trevi Fountain was mobbed mobbed mobbed, much more crowded than my pictures showed from spring break 1995.

    Planning to get a good fish dinner and plan a walking route for tomorrow. Probably no museums tomorrow, but we will see. Three days in Rome is not much time, but we will do our best.    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018Laurie Reynolds

    Walk till you drop

    January 5, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    Today was our walk walk walk day with no museums. But we did start with a church (Santa Maria in Trastevere) and end with a church (Santa Maria Maggiore), because both of them had amazing mosaics spanning the 5th - 12th centuries. In between we just walked and enjoyed the sunny day — along the river, to St. Peter’s (the crowds and the lines even to get into the basilica made us decide to skip an inside visit), to Hadrian´s mauseoulum, to Piazza Navona, the Pantheon, the Colosseum, many ruins of temples, forums, and theaters.

    Since last night’s dinner at Crispi 19 was very good but just too much pretense (many different waiters for different functions, including one whose only job seemed to be to use that bread-crumb-remover on the tablecloths), we’re looking for something above paper tablecloths, but not fine linen.

    Only two more days here, and I guess it’s only fair that tomorrow I go along to the National Museum, since Joe was such a good sport today.    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018Laurie Reynolds

    Museum Day

    January 6, 2019 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 7 °C

    We slept in a bit, no need to rush, and since it is January 6 (Epiphany), it’s even more of a holiday than Sunday usually is. Our hotel had tons of special traditional sweets at breakfast, added to the overabundance of sweets they serve on normal days!

    I was skeptical about these museums (the National Museum of Rome has two locations about 5 minutes apart from each other, one on each side of the train station), but I have changed my tune. The first had the best statuary that’s been found in Rome, some Greek, some Roman, and mosaics and frescoes from two huge villas excavated in the 1900s, one of them under the Termini train station!

    After a couple of hours at the museum, we took a break in an old 19th century cafe where we got the Italian equivalent of sliders for lunch. Very tasty and a nice break from the pasta, pizza routine.

    Then to the second musum, which is located inside what were the largest public baths (capacity for 3000 bathers, with a huge outdoor pool as well). It was really interesting, and we also got to walk around a cloister designed by Michaelangelo at age 86, when the pope converted part of the baths into a church, to recognize the 40,000 Christian slaves who built the baths.

    With another hour or so of daylight, we hoofed it over to see the Colisseum in late afternoon, as opposed to early morning, light. Very nice both ways!!!    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018Laurie Reynolds

    Last Day in Rome

    January 7, 2019 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 5 °C

    So, this morning as I was mapping out a walk to some of the parts of the city we hadn’t visited, I decided to check Vatican tickets for the day. And tickets were available, so we decided to head back, visit St. Peter’s, and go to the Vatican Museums.

    There were no lines to get into the church so we sailed through security and were inside in no time. The basilica is overwhelming, the size of everything is so giant. Some of the statues of popes really made them look human, though, even at that size. I am glad we went. My favorite part was walking to the top of the cupola — Joe took the elevator but then had to walk the last couple hundred steps anyway. The views from the top were great, and it was another crystal clear sunny day.

    We were exhausted by the time we left the Vatican, about three hours after entering. I understand why they leave the Sistine Chapel till the end, but it was hard to feel bright eyed after hours of statuary, papal apartments, and Raphael rooms. The colors are just as brilliant as they look in pictures, and I particularly liked the Noah’s Ark panel. All in all, a good way to end the trip.

    Tomorrow we will be up at 4:30 for a 5:15 car to the airport. Yikes. Going through London, glad it’s before Brexit!    Read more

    Trip end
    January 15, 2019
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