A 13-day adventure by Laurie Read more
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  • Day 11

    Folklore and Presidents

    September 12, 2019 in Brazil ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    We had a really nice combination of things to do today. First to the folklore museum — nice artifacts, but for me the highlight was the cute groups of school kids. Then a short walk to the former Presidential Palace now a museum, and the place where the dictator Getúlio Vargas committed suicide. The gun he used and his bloody nightshirt are on display, kind of grotesque, I thought. All of our day’s locations were within a km or so of each other, so we walked around downtown a lot. That is one of my favorite activities when in a big city.

    Lunch in another restaurant Joe remembered — another white tablecloth place, I am getting the idea that he was usually living high on the hog down here. From there we went to the Institute where lots of research was done. And since Joe has never met an academic bookstore he didn’t love, he was in hog heaven. We got inside the institute and walked around his old haunts, even though the archives where he spent the most time have been moved.

    Dinner tonight in a Lebanese restaurant — after a week in Sao Paulo with its excellent Lebanese restaurants, this one has a pretty high standard to live up to, we will see!
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  • Day 12

    Feijoada Flop

    September 13, 2019 in Brazil ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Joe kept insisting he had to have a feijoada. It’s the “typical” Brazilian meal, a pot filled with all kinds of meats, surrounded by plates of mantioc flour, collard greens, orange slices, beans, rice, etc. The place he remembered, the restaurant in the modernist Copacabana Palace Hotel, no longer serves feijoada. But we persisted.

    After a visit to the Copacabana Fort, built by the Portuguese to fend off the French, British, and Dutch (and maybe a few more), we took a long walk on two other iconic Brazilian beaches — Arpoador (named after the Harpoon Stone, from which harpooners supposedly used to hunt whales) and Ipanema. Now that I can compare all the beaches, I would say for sure that Copacabana is the prettiest — longest stretches of sand, widest beaches. But all of them have side lanes of traffic whizzing by and endless high rise apartment buildings.

    And then, having worked up an appetite, came the feijoada. Let’s just say it’s one of those experiences that should have been left in the memory and not repeated. I am glad I chose a salad. Now Joe is sleeping it off, and I am feeling superior for having been able to hop on the elliptical without feeling like I had a rock in my stomach. And now I am on the hotel terrace looking out as dark clouds move ini. All very dramatic.

    Home tomorrow!!!
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  • Day 13

    Time to head home

    September 14, 2019 in Brazil ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    We had one last walk on Copacabana beach, time in the fitness center😄, a visit to the Museum of Modern Art, and a stroll around the WWII monument and the yacht club, with a cloud-covered Sugar Loaf in the background.

    Almost 300 Brazilians died in WWII, fighting alongside US troops in and around Naples. In 1960, their bodies were returned to Rio and the monument constructed. The military commander explained why he was pushing for the new monument— I was the one who took them over to their sacrifice, so it’s up to me to bring them home. So sad.

    At the airport getting ready for what will be a LONG travel day— home in about 24 hours from now! Joe is happy and has just checked his “to do” list to see that there is nothing left on it. A good nostalgic visit for him.

    P.s. only in Brazil would they name an airline GOL
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