Arrived? Maybe?
December 5 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C
We are off to a rocky start on our grand Chilean adventure… Delta flight from ATL to Santiago was 4 hours delayed causing us to miss our connection on LATAM to Puerto Montt, the airport for the regatta venue. The only flight we could get was 7 hours later and the last flight of the day. Fingers crossed it will go off OK! In the meantime, just sittin’ and chillin’ as Alex says. Getting good use out of sky lounges! Weird to have such a long flight but be basically on the same time zone! Also weird geography lesson that the west coat of South America is east of the US East Coast. Because of DST, the local time is 2 hours ahead of EST.
Hotel tonight in Puerto Montt tonight and head to venue tomorrow!Read more
Fantastic Frutillar
December 6 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C
Not without complications, we have arrived at the regatta venue, a large lake with a stunning volcano backdrop. It’s funny to me that both of our excellent sailing adventures have had iconic volcano backdrops (Fuji and now Osorno)!
Lessons learned for future travels: if the custom agent gives you something, even a tiny slip that looks like a credit card receipt, DO NOT THROW IT AWAY. Turns out that little slip is the Immigration Ticket and though the Customs guy failed to mention it, is required for rental cars, hotels, and departure. Luckily I found mine in a pocket after rifling thru my suitcase, but Alex is pretty sure his went into the trash along with the used bag tickets. He’s going to have to make an appointment with the local police to get a replacement. Grrr…
The venue itself is a small boat lot with a lovely rustic clubhouse with good food and drink available for Chilean Pisco Sours (similar, but not the same as the more common Peruvian Pisco Sour!), good local beers, empanadas and hot lunches. Launching will be an interesting game of Tetris with one small launch ramp and 55 boats to get in the water. The Practice Race is today, so we will get a test run!
The AirBnB is a super cute log cabin style chalet in the town of Frutillar Bajo (Lower Frutillar) which is a beach town on the lake. This part of Chile has strong German roots from the late 1800’s so our first meal included schnitzel and spaetzle, though I opted for a local specialty of Salmon on a bed of corn mash (like a slightly sweetened polenta) that was delicious!Read more
Day 1 Racing
December 8 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
Day 1 of racing complete! 54 boats from 11 countries are competing with skill levels from World Champions and former Yachtman of the Year to teams coming back to the Snipe after long hiatuses. For us, we are adhering to the Bermudian saying: We are not here for a long time, we are here for a good time!
Yesterday started super light from the north, but flipped around to the south for shifty, 5-12kt puffy conditions. With the first race starting around 2:30, we were still able to get in the 2 scheduled races and, thanks to being close to the summer solstice, had full sunlight getting back to the dock at 5. We had good moments and bad, but ended up 20th and 21st in the races putting us in 18th overall.
“Meat snacks” at the club and dinner with old friends at a lovely local seafood place Casa Videla topped off the day. Conger Eel stew and grilled octopus were the best dishes!
Three more days of racing and one lay day to go!Read more
Racing Wrap Up: Days 2, 3 and 4
December 9 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
To cut to the chase, racing day 1 (Monday) with the 20 and 21 was an omen for the rest of the regatta. I'll recap the rest of the racing part here and let Lisa opine on the social and food program every night.
In general, the 1 pm schedule start time was nice as there generally was not much breeze in the morning and (usually) a great southerly thermal develops in the afternoon, even to the point of being too much for a masters event. The launch process took more than an hour to get the 54 boats down the steep ramp. Thankfully they covered it with astroturf and hired a bunch of local kids to help get down, and more importantly up, the ramp and to stow and fetch the dollys. The sail out was generally much longer than it appeared taking a hour or so, but they typically got the course set up: “DEPLOY THE BOTS” as we joke about the marks when they all take their positions. They used robotic Mark Set Bots that are remote controlled and not anchored as the water, making it easy to set up the course especially in this lake as the water is 300’-600' deep and no one wants to haul that much anchor line!
In most races we had multiple general recalls with the really aggressive fleet pushing the line even with the U Flag out. These made starts really hard for those of us who are less aggressive and not used to such large fleets. And this is not sour grapes just a lesson learned, the willingness to let people go even if they are OCS (over the line early for the non sailors) because you don't see their number is pretty astounding in my opinion, which reinforces the need to be in that first row even if you know you are over. You just hope they don't see your number. As a side note, this is one of the parts of this game that really grinds my gears.
Anyway, on racing day 2 (Tuesday) we finally got a start off in fairly light breeze and without a great start, we got pushed out to a side that was sadly not the correct side. Despite making a number of boats back on the first run and second beat, we only clawed back to 31 and it's no fun sailing in the cheap seats for many reasons.
The second race also had a litany of restarts but the one that went was good for us and with the breeze up to the low to mid teens (what would be complained about that evening by some), we were hiking hard and making good choices as the saying goes. As we all know it’s much easier to sail in the front of the fleet especially in shifty conditions. Because the breeze was up to near (or over depending on your perspective) the “15 knots sustained for 3 minutes” limit, the RC chose to finish the race at mark 3 of 4 (second windward mark) and we had a great result at 16. On the way in it was definitely above that and really puffy but we had a fun fast reach back to the club and importantly doing well in the most important race to the ramp!
They had a photographer on the course but sadly, they must not have thought we were very photogenic or far enough up the score sheet, so no glam sailing shots.
The first two days of racing the sky was very clear and the sun was HOT at that low latitude (41°S). Even though, when the breeze was up and it was wet with full thermal hiking pants, a smock, tech hoodie of the cap and a life jacket, it was not hot. But the most amazing thing was the views of the Volcanos across the lake. Lisa kept saying - endlessly! - how distracting starboard tack was with that view.
Wednesday was a reserve day again with nice weather and Lisa will recap that soon.
Racing day 3 (Thursday) began with a cloudy, misty morning. They anticipated heavy breeze in the afternoon so the start was moved up an hour to try and get the racing done before that. But the best laid plans, as they say… no early breeze materialized and there was a postponement ashore for several hours. When some breeze looked promising, we launched and headed out to the course in the early afternoon. It took almost 3 hours on the water before the breeze settled down enough to get a race off, in a pretty light southerly. The breeze built towards the end of the race and we finished at 19 a good result. We didn’t hit the shore until almost 7pm but it really didn’t seem late as there was still three hours of daylight left!
Racing day 4 was also a cloudy, misty light air morning with cold rain forecast all day but we launched on time and headed out to the course. It was fairly cold on the water with on and off rain as we waited for the northerly/westerly breeze to settle. Once it did, we had several general recalls and they went right to the “black flag” (if you are over early you are out of the race even if there is a restart), the first time I have every seen this in a regatta. When a start finally stuck, sadly it was horrendous for us and we were back in the cheap seats, only able to claw back to 27. The breeze continued to be really shifty but they got the start of the second race (7) off in lightish breeze. It wasn’t a great start but we saw where the breeze was filling from and caught the strong shift to get to the weather mark in the top 10. At the leeward mark it was “breeze on” but sadly for us they abandoned the race - I’m not sure if it was that it was over the limit or violated class rules for being too shifty in the first lap but was probably the right thing to do - and since it was too late in the day for any more racing, we headed back to the dock with a total of 6 races and one drop to finish in 22nd. The consolation was we again finished high in the race to the ramp to get out of the water, unrigged and get the charter boat sorted for the returned. I had modified it a bit with parts I brought. Charter boats are a whole post in and of itself, but not so interesting for a general audience, so I'll let that go.
All in all, 22nd was a decent result. I think we had potential to be between 15-20, but we made too many mistakes, mostly around not getting off the starting line well, something that always gives us trouble since we don’t usually sail in 50+ boat fleets. And that is definitely compounded by so many top sailors from parts of the world that have different and much more aggressive starting line tactics, something we knew would be the case but were not fully prepared for. But that’s the fun and challenge of coming to a regatta like this. You learn by doing and experiencing even if the end result is below expectations. Lisa was the 2nd place Women's skipper and I got that same trophy.Read more

TravelerInteresting! I have never heard of bot marks. So, does the club not have enough ramp capacity because it never made sense to host a one-design regatta there before bot marks were developed? Regardless, nice job in unusual conditions. And Alex, I expect to see that trophy prominently displayed!
Lay Day Vulcan Osorno
December 10 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C
Wednesday offered a break in the regatta action to go to the top of that stunning volcano we have been ogling all week! Even with the “power assist” offered by the ski lifts, there was some steep vertical to get our heart rates up! It was a wild moonscape of lava seemingly in the sky. It took about an hour and a half from the venue, but was well worth it! We traveled with old friends Steve & Janet Callison, Maureen Mitchell, Doug Nugent and his daughter Amelia.
We then hustled back for an “Asado” (BBQ) of lamb, chicken and beef seasoned with the local spice blend called merken at a club down the lake a bit, hosted by the regatta. Well deserved tributes were given, but none so deserving as honoring Jerelyn Biehl on her retirement from SCIRA after 32 years!Read more
Frutillar- food and other thoughts
December 11 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
Frutillar Bajo was a wonderful “beach” town 600 miles south of Santiago. The temps are similar to Cape Cod in May or June - bright sunshine and crisp breeze, with some rain to be expected. The town provided Instagram-worthy views and tourist-friendly shops, lodging, cafes, restaurants in an easily walkable village. The birds were wild. The most notable (maybe just the most noisy!) were this weird looking Black-faced Ibis. Holy moly, did they make a racket! They were quite large with a Suessian look about them, particularly when perched in the Suessian trees.
I would rate the food a 7 out of 10. The Germanic influence (from the 1800’s) has eclipsed most indigenous influences. Lots of pastries, cakes, fried food, hamburgers, and carne … LOTS of carne! I haven’t eaten that much meat in the past 2 years combined. Beef, pork, lamb, and chicken were ubiquitous. Carne Asada fresh off the grill greeted us everyday as we came off the water! Salmon is also everywhere, as the lake apparently has a very large salmon farming operation. Seafood of all types were plentiful since in Chile, you are never far from a coastline. And while vegetables as we think of them were scarce, avocados were everywhere and on a surprising number of dishes- often in the form of these cute little rosette-shaped circles that I have no idea how they made. The Chilean salad is tomatoes, onion and spicy pepper slices in a vinaigrette. Quantities were ample and the prices were quite reasonable.
Empanadas were our daily lunch or post-sailing snack from the club’s kitchen. So many interesting flavors in a baked (vs fried) dough - beef stew, carmelized onion & cheese, shrimp & cheese, pollo, curry, margherita, pear & blue cheese. I didn’t try them all, but my fave was the curry.
The Chilean wines were delightful - the local Carmenere (red) as well as Sauvignon Blanc. Chile has hopped on the local beer train with a nice variety of local IPAs, Pale Ales, Parters, and Pilsners. Of course the Chilean Pisco sours were a popular choice, but I found them a bit too sweet. The Chilean varies from the Peruvian. Which is “best” was a hot topic! The Peruvian has an egg white froth and made from Peruvian Pisco. The Chilean is a bit “brighter in flavor- no froth and made from the Chilean Pisco which is slightly different.Read more
Arrived in Patagonia
December 13 in Chile ⋅ 🌬 9 °C
We took a 2 hour flight from Puerto Montt the day after the regatta ended with the usual leaving takes 1 (Lisa forgot her suitcase), 2 (Lisa had the AirBnB key on her bag) and 3rd time’s a charm. Shocker, I know! The drive from Frutillar to Puerto Montt and the flight logistics were easy.
Puerto Natalas is an old fishing village that has turned into a bit of a chi chi (as chi chi as Patagonia gets) gateway town to Patagonia with some excellent restaurants and bars and even a distillery that bills itself as the southern most distillery.
We got our rental car (a Nissa Versa standard), checked into the cool little hotel and went a few miles up the road to see the Milodón caves.
After that we drove back and had dinner at a local pizzeria. We tried to go to the distillery for a drink after dinner but after knocking on the door, they said they were full. Excuuuuuuse me!Read more
Mirador Las Torres
December 15 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C
The big hiking objective for me (Alex) was the 12 mile hike up to Mirador Las Torres. It was an all day affair and thankfully I had done a 12 mile hike a few weeks ago at home to test the gear and body. Good thing as it was a bit harder than that test. But no problems and the reward was the most amazing view of the signature 3 peaks in the Torres del Paine Massif. You can kind of get the view if you get close from the park road but the Torres are on the back side of a horseshoe with a little lake in the middle so you really do have to do the hike to get the full experience.
We - me and my two companions Kim Couranz and Laura Jeffers, this was a little much for Lisa but she did her own shorter hikes that day - left early for the hour and a half drive to the welcome center at the base. It took a little longer than expected because we stopped at every overlook for pictures. Every time you turned a corner there was a freakin post card shot!
The route is essentially up the valley made by the river that the lake at the top drains into, although it doesn’t really follow the grade of the river. It occasionally goes way up above the valley in places, then down across various foot bridges.
This is the route: Torres del Paine viewpoint via Las Torres - El Chileno Trail on All Trails
https://www.alltrails.com/trail/chile/magallane…
It was a very chilly morning but the cloud cover cleared by the hike start and the outer layer didn’t last long. We started a little on the late side at 9:15 (for the early shift anyway) and the reviews said it would be sort of a “conga line” affair which turned out to be pretty much true as this is the most popular hike in the park. It’s rated hard due to the length but is pretty accessible for a fit hiker, adding to the number of people that do it. That said, I was a bit surprised to see some really young kids and some adults that looked pretty out of shape. I’m a reasonably fit guy and it was hard for me. But then again, I do have to enroll in Medicare this year… It’s mostly just walking up with a number of steep spots, switchbacks, and rutted paths though wooded areas and much of the surface was loose granite rocks. Trekking poles really helped. The last 1.5k gets much steeper, just shy of “scrambling” but you had to pick your way through the boulders and seemed like it went on forever. Just when you think it was right around the corner there was another pitch. But eventually you could see Las Torres peak (pun intended) over the rock and the next turn was the “Ta Da” view.
Like climbing in cycling, you have to go at a pace that is comfortable for you regardless of what others are doing. I went out ahead of my companions as I am a pretty fast walker and took advantage of wider spots of trail to get around slower sections of the conga line. I didn’t stop at the refuge center half way and pressed on to the top not wanting to cool down, for a total time to the top of 3:15. I wasn’t sure where they were so found a good spot to eat my lunch and soak up the views. They are almost surreal in a way, the pictures really don’t do it justice.
After eating and relaxing for 45 min or so I decided to head back down and ran into Kim and Laura just getting to the top so we all hung out while they ate which made for about an hour and a half at the top.
The weather was SPECTACULAR with not much wind and bright sunshine. The forecast a week out had been for rain everyday so we got really lucky. We saw TWO proposals and a gazillion Instagram poses with las Torres as a backdrop.
The trip down was about the same, 3 and a half hours. While it was easier, I was being cautious not to slip and/or pound my knees too badly as I definitely was getting tired. That’s when you start making mistakes, so caution was key. Again I was doing a pretty good job of leap frogging the conga line and again distanced myself. I waited at the refuge center for a bit and we joined up after a brief rest and to shed the final layer of leggings.
Getting towards the bottom, I was definitely smelling the barn (and needing el baño) so I booked it on the last easy mile to the end and waited for Kim and Laura to finish. We finally got back to the lodge for dinner at about 8pm where Lisa and her hiking companion Carol Cronin and the Callisons, who arrived that day, were just sitting down to dinner. The two beers felt really good! I was a bit sore the next day but we did a shorter WINDY hike with another killer view.Read more
When things don’t go to plan-Los Cuernos
December 15 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C
What could have been a potential big bummer turned into the best day ever. The plan for the day was for Alex (and our similarly endurance-athlete friends Kim and Laura) to do the big 12-mile hike to Mirador Los Torres and for the less ambitious, our sailing buddy Carol Cronin and I, to do one or two of the moderate/easy hikes. Kim drove to our lodge early to pick up Alex and dropped Carol so I could drive us to our destinations. After a leisurely breakfast, I can’t find the car keys and assume Alex has accidentally taken them with him. Cell service is not good in the park, so my pleas were not received. After exploring all options (there were none), the staff asked a family staying at the lodge who agreed to take us to the hike we had planned to do, Mirador Los Cuernos. We now have a lovely couple and their toddler as our Uber drivers.
After parting with our new friends, Carol & I had the most amazing hike to the Mirador (scenic lookout) - every corner with an “OMG, this is stunning!” elicited. The color of the water, this Caribbean blue-teal, juxtaposed to soaring peaks was jaw-dropping. We also passed Salto Grande, a gorgeous waterfall between two Lagos (lakes).
After completing that 2-hour hike, our next dilemma is “now what?” How do we get back to the lodge, a 40 minute drive? Carol played the role of aggressive problem solver, and soon we are in the back of a car with a lovely 30-ish couple from Berlin who speak to each other in English, as Niko is native to Chile, but Anja is Russian/German and English is their best common language. Four hours, four Miradors, and another hike later, Niko & Anja drop us off at our lodge after we exchange contact info.
I am only bummed that I missed the “Torres” view and the boat trip to the Glacier Grey (our boat trip the next day was cancelled due to weather - post coming soon on that!), but so happy that we got to at least see the glacier from afar in a sunny day and had a wonderful adventure meeting new friends.
PS: Turns out the keys were in the cabin, I just have shit for brains and did not remember him telling me that SMH!Read more
Lunch and Mirador Condor
December 16 in Chile ⋅ 🌬 12 °C
The second day we were all a little tired and on point it was raining and cold. We had booked a catamaran tour to see the glacier at the top end of Lago Grey but when we got there, we were told it was cancelled due to the weather. The safe bet was to rebook the next day, so sadly we would miss it as we were headed back to Santiago. In retrospect we should have stayed one more day in Torres del Paine.
Anyway, after hanging around the Hotel Lago Grey and taking a quick walk around in the rain, we decided to find a lunch place followed by a hike as the forecast was for a couple hour weather window.
The (late) lunch stop was on a little island with a walkway to it and some guest houses. This seems to be one of the few places to eat actually in the park. No doubt was grandfathered in when the park was created. It was a nice stop and surprisingly not particularly crowded given it was the only thing around. We had driven by it on the way to Mirador Las Torres so was cool to stop there.
The food was good and the view amazing. And right on cue after lunch the sun came out so we went just down the road to a short hike up to a view of the area - Mirador Condor. While it stopped raining, the wind was howling and the higher we got, the stronger it got, maybe blowing 40 knots at the top. It was hard to stand against it and frankly was a little scary to get up. It was such an amazing 360° view of all the local “Lagos and Riós” as Lisa put it. The crazy puffs on the lakes were interesting. Well worth the effort.
We eventually scampered down as the rain started again and drove a bit further into the park to see a waterfall that connects two lakes and then headed back to the lodge. Even though the distances in the park are on the order of a few to 10km, it takes a while in the gravel at 20-30 km/hr. We had a nice dinner with Steve, Janet, Kim, Carol and Laura for our last night.Read more
Maipo Valley Wine tour
December 18 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
We headed back to Santiago on Wednesday and woke up early for a 10 hour wine tour of the Maipo Valley. I am not much of a day drinker, but this tour was really fabulous. We visited four vineyards from tiny to commercial production and our tour guide Benji did a great job of weaving in a history of the area, as well as a remarkable knowledge of wine-making given he was all of 20 years old. The Maipo Valley (just south of Santiago) is uniquely situated to have perfect micro areas for red vs whites and be isolated from many pesticides and fungus due to its narrow band bordered by the Andes on the east, the desert in the north, the Pacific on the west, and Antartica to the south. Chile maintains this with super strict border control wrt to ag products. Chile is known for very limited pesticides in their wines.
Carmenere is the hallmark Chilean red wine, although they also produce delicious Cabernets and other red blends. The Carmenere grape was thought for years to be extinct, having died out in Europe from a root fungus. In Chile, for many years, the Carmenere was mistaken to be a Chilean-grown Merlot grape until recent years when a viticulturalist visiting Chile questioned it and made the discovery that they were in fact the thought-to-be-lost Carmenere. Chile’s isolation had saved it from the European fungus. The taste is similar to a Bordeaux or Merlot. It is my new favorite wine :)
The tour went from 2 small vineyards who are building sustainable vineyards that include livestock (baby llamas!), complementary plants, and minimal irrigation. The 3rd winery was mainly a lunch stop at a farm that also made good olive oil. The final stop was a commercial producer, Undurraga.
There were about 10 others on the trip- all fun fellow travelers, a few on their way to Antartica! All in all a lovely day!Read more
Final stop: Santiago
December 19 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
Our final stop before heading home was Santiago, a city of 5 million souls. I have not been to any other South American cities, but compared to other large American and European cities, we found it disappointing (Alex more than me). It did have great potential- some beautiful historic buildings and quite a bit of green space- but the history of government unrest / riots has left the city with a fortress feel (barbed wire/security reinforcing at street level), graffiti, and just some dirt/dinginess.
The vibe was decent - just don’t try to go to a cafe for coffee before 10am! At 8:30 it was dead, but by 10:30 it was hopping! Even the Central Market was not open (except for a few fishmonger) at 8:30. By 10:30 though, lots of markets, young people and families were out & about, and of course tourists.
The city was safe and walkable. The highlight for us was the Pre-Columbian Museum recommended by our Maipo Valley guide. The level of sophistication of the indigenous tribes was amazing. The detailed textiles, pottery, and metalurgy was incredible. Fun fact is that the Mapuche people of southern Chile claim to be the only tribe to defeat the Inca and repel the Spaniards who, after unsuccessful encounters, decided to stay in Santiago.
We also spent some our last pesos at the Pueblito Los Dominicos, an artisan village at the end of the subway (which was super clean and efficient). It was cool to by an alpaca scarf and broach from the woman who made them. Alex also went out of his comfort zone with a fun leather sombrero.
In the final analysis, I was so impressed with Chile! I would definitely go back, as we both could have spent more time in Patagonia, and I would love to see the Atacama desert, penguins, and the coastline that we missed.Read more




















































































































































