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Faroe Islands
  • Nathaniel Stott
  • Anne Archambault
  • Nathaniel Stott
  • Anne Archambault

Faroe Islands

A trip to the rugged Faroe Islands. We're also taking some time in Copenhagen and around Denmark and Sweden. Leer más
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  • Faroe Islands
    This is a rune stone in front of the History Museum.

    Lund

    31 de marzo, Suecia ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    Lund was founded around 990 during the final years of the Viking Age. For seven hundred years it was a major Danish city and the religious capital of both Denmark and all of Scandinavia serving as the seat of the Archbishop. It was often called the Rome of the North because of its high concentration of medieval churches.

    The city only became part of Sweden in 1658 following the Treaty of Roskilde. This transition left a permanent mark on the local population and their mentality. The Scanian dialect still carries the soft consonants and guttural pronunciations of its Danish origins and many residents feel a dual identity that looks toward Copenhagen as much as Stockholm.

    This hybrid identity is most visible in the regional flag of Skåne. Unlike the blue and yellow national flag of Sweden the Scanian flag features a yellow cross on a red field. This design intentionally combines the colors of the Swedish cross with the red background of the Danish Dannebrog. It serves as a symbol of regional pride and a constant reminder of the historical era when the province was the heart of the Danish kingdom.

    This historical legacy is retained in the medieval street plan incorporating narrow, winding alleys that converge on the massive Romanesque cathedral. The Old Town is a living artifact of this era where cobblestone streets and half timbered houses are the norm.

    After walking the streets of the old town we ventured to the Lund University Library. Completed in 1907, the neo Gothic structure is famous for its facade which, until recently, was almost completely obscured by thick ivy. The library was established in 1666 specifically to help integrate the region into the Swedish kingdom after the Danish rule ended. Today it serves as a legal depository that preserves a copy of every piece of literature printed in Sweden while standing as a monument to the city's intellectual evolution.

    We finished with lunch at Buljong. Both of us had the salmon, wild garlic, and dill soup that was probably one of the best dishes of the entire trip. We had a great chat with the owner about Lund and the history of the region.

    A final note, the city of Lund has a tourist app with information and tours, even a scavenger hunt. So we used that to tour around downtown and find some interesting little spots.    Leer más

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  • Faroe Islands

    Helsingborg

    1 de abril, Suecia ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    We traveled by train from Malmö to Helsingborg for the next stage in our trip. Mostly, this was just to see some more of both Sweden and Denmark.

    Helsingborg occupies one of the most strategic geographical locations in Northern Europe. Situated at the narrowest point of the Øresund, the city is only 4 kilometers (2.5 miles) from the Danish coast. Like much of the Skåne region, Helsingborg was a vital part of the Danish kingdom for centuries and served as a fortified gateway controlling access to the Baltic Sea.

    The city was the site of numerous battles between Sweden and Denmark before permanently becoming Swedish in 1658. This long military history is still etched into the landscape through the massive fortifications that once dominated the heights above the harbor.

    We strolled astound the city, starting at the Terrasstrapporna, or the Terrace Steps. These grand stone stairs were completed in 1903 and lead from Stortorget up to the medieval plateau. At the summit stands Kärnan, a 35 meter (115 foot) tall brick tower that is the only remaining part of a much larger medieval fortress. Built in the early 14th century, the tower provided a defensive vantage point over the strait. From the top of the tower, visitors can see across the water to the spires of Helsingør in Denmark, illustrating exactly why this spot was so fiercely contested for nearly seven hundred years.

    We dropped back down from Kärnan, had fika at Bruket kaffebar, and then walked along the Promenade, a long stretch of waterfront that defines the modern character of Helsingborg. This area, particularly around Norra Hamnen and the Gröningen park, serves as the city’s primary social space where residents gather for swimming and dining.    Leer más

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    Öresundslinjen Ferry

    2 de abril, Suecia ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    The ferry route between Helsingborg and Helsingør is one of the busiest in Europe and serves as a vital link between Sweden and Denmark.

    The Öresundslinjen fleet has undergone a massive technological transformation to reduce its environmental footprint. Two of the primary vessels named Aurora and Tycho Brahe have been converted from traditional diesel engines to run entirely on electricity. These are among the largest battery powered ferries currently in operation and they demonstrate that high capacity maritime transport can function without fossil fuels.

    The success of the electric fleet depends on an incredibly efficient charging system located at the terminals in both cities. Since the ferries only spend about 20 minutes in port to load and unload passengers, the charging process must be rapid. Automated robot arms at the dock identify the ship as it arrives and connect a high voltage cable to the onboard battery packs. In just five to nine minutes the ships receive enough energy to complete the next twenty minute journey across the strait. This seamless integration allows the ferry line to maintain its frequent schedule of departures every fifteen to twenty minutes throughout the day.

    There's another fun thing about this ferry line, something called the "Tura" Experience. It's possible to buy a ticket that allows you to just cruise back and forth, "Tura-ing." Locals and tourists do this so they can enjoy eating "pölse" or shrimp sandwiches in the restaurant. A fun and scenic way to pass time and enjoy a meal.    Leer más

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    Kronborg Castle and Helsingør

    2 de abril, Dinamarca ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    One of the primary goals of our sightseeing loop was a visit to Kronborg Castle. A quick and easy ferry ride from our hotel dropped us off in downtown Helsingør on the waterfront on a gloriously sunny morning.

    Helsingør rose to international prominence in 1429 when King Eric of Pomerania established the Sound Dues. For over four hundred years every ship entering or leaving the Baltic Sea was required to stop and pay a toll at this narrow point. This mandatory stop turned the town into a cosmopolitan hub filled with foreign merchants and sailors which funded the construction of the grand buildings that still line the historic center today. The city’s prosperity remained tied to this maritime tax until it was abolished in 1857.

    A short walk along the waterfront took us to Kronborg Castle where it stands vigil over both the city and the narrow strait of water separating Denmark and Sweden. Kronborg Castle is famously known as Elsinore in William Shakespeare’s Hamlet, a fact that they play up by placing fake skulls around the castle. Rebuilt in the late 16th century it served as both a lavish royal residence and a formidable coastal fortress.

    The castle is surrounded by massive moats and star shaped ramparts that once housed the most powerful cannons in Northern Europe. In the dark casemates deep below the foundations the legendary figure Holger Danske sits in stone waiting to wake and defend the Danish kingdom in times of crisis.

    After touring the castle, we are lunch at Elsinor Street Food, a large and playful food hall serving up all sorts of food and drink. The urinals in the men's room were especially playful.

    Following lunch, a walk around town punctuated by a visit to the The Church of Saint Marie and the adjacent Carmelite Priory. These represent some of the finest medieval architecture in Scandinavia. Founded in 1430 the priory remains one of the best preserved monastic complexes in the region.    Leer más

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    Green George

    3 de abril, Dinamarca ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    Tucked away in the corners of Freetown Christiania is Green George. One of many troll sculptures by the famous Danish artist Thomas Dambo

    George is constructed entirely from reclaimed materials including discarded pallets and scrap wood found within the Christiania community. His relaxed pose and contemplative expression perfectly mirror the alternative and laid back atmosphere of the neighborhood.

    The history of Green George is rooted in Dambo’s "Forgotten Giants" project. The artist began placing these trolls in hidden locations around Copenhagen to draw people out of the city center and into the local parks and forests.

    George was one of the early creations in this series and was specifically designed to represent the environmental values of Christiania. He serves as a physical reminder that what one person considers trash can be transformed into something beautiful and meaningful.

    It's been fun to see these trolls all over the world, and I'm sad we didn't see the other two trips in Copenhagen, but that leaves stuff for our next visit 😉    Leer más

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    Easter Brunch Smorgasbord

    5 de abril, Dinamarca ⋅ 🌬 12 °C

    Easter is a big deal in Denmark so Anne planned ahead to make sure we had a classic Easter Brunch buffet lined up.

    A little research online pointed to Café & Ølhalle "1892" as a local classic with an all you can eat smørrebrødsbord and classic "snaps" (schnapps).

    It turns out, Påskefrokost (Danish Easter lunch) is a centuries old tradition in Denmark!
    While Easter has deep religious roots, the modern Copenhagen tradition of the Påskefrokost is a secular celebration of the coming spring. Historically the meal marked the first time families could enjoy eggs and meat after the long winter and the fasting period of Lent.

    A proper Easter lunch follows a strict traditional sequence that moves from the sea to the land. The meal begins with several varieties of herring such as curried or pickled which are often served with eggs and onions to symbolize spring.

    This is followed by seafood like prawns and plaice before moving on to warm dishes like liver pate with bacon or lamb. Each component is served on dense buttered rye bread which provides the structural foundation for the meal. The focus is on high quality seasonal ingredients and the visual presentation is often brightened with yellow accents and fresh herbs to mirror the blooming daffodils outside.

    No Danish Easter celebration is complete without the presence of snaps or Akvavit. This grain or potato based spirit is flavored with herbs like caraway or dill and is served ice cold in small stemmed glasses. The snaps is considered an essential digestive aid for the rich toppings of the smørrebrød and is traditionally sipped throughout the long lunch. During Easter many distilleries release special seasonal batches that are slightly more spiced or floral. The ritual of the Skål is central to the experience where diners make eye contact before and after drinking to reinforce the sense of community and shared celebration that defines the holiday.

    Long story short, it was great and we couldn't more highly recommend it!    Leer más

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    Christiansborg Slot

    5 de abril, Dinamarca ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    The history of Christiansborg Slot spans over 800 years of political transitions and architectural resilience. The current palace is the third iteration built on this site, succeeding two previous structures that were destroyed by devastating fires in 1794 and 1884. While it serves as the seat of the Danish Parliament and the Supreme Court, the palace also remains a royal residence used for official functions.

    Below the current cattle, it's still possible to see the ruins of Bishop Absalon’s original castle from 1167. That exhibit provides a physical timeline of the city’s defensive evolution.

    The Royal Reception Rooms are the centerpiece of the palace and are still used by the King for gala banquets and diplomatic audiences. The Great Hall is the most significant room in the wing and features the famous Queen’s Tapestries. These 17 modern tapestries were designed by artist Bjørn Nørgaard and depict 1000 years of Danish history from the Viking Age to the present. The vivid colors and intricate details of the weaving make it one of the most comprehensive artistic projects in modern Danish history.

    The Royal Stables date back to 1740 and survived the fires that claimed the main palace buildings. The stables are a living museum where the royal horses are still kept and trained for official duties. The stable complex includes an ornate riding arena and a museum of state coaches and harnesses. The most impressive item in the collection is the Golden State Coach which is covered in 24 carat gold leaf and has been used for royal processions and New Year levees since 1840.

    The Royal Kitchen exhibit offers a unique look into the logistics of feeding hundreds of guests during the reign of King Christian X. The space has been restored to reflect a single day in 1937 during a gala banquet preparation. It features one of the largest collections of copper kitchenware in Europe with hundreds of polished pots, pans, and molds. The exhibit uses sound and lighting to simulate the heat and activity of a working royal kitchen where master chefs and confectioners once prepared elaborate multi course meals for the European aristocracy.

    Interestingly, Christiansborg Slot is the only building in the world that houses a country’s executive, legislative, and judicial branches all in one building.    Leer más

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    Pølsevogn & Danish Hotdog Culture

    5 de abril, Dinamarca ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

    I never thought I'd be doing a post on hotdogs, but here we are. Hot dogs have been a staple of Copenhagen street culture since the 1920s through the iconic pølsevogn. We are several times at DØP, which was well recommended in reviews and made for good, uncomplicated eats.

    The hot dog became a central part of Copenhagen culture in 1921 when the first pølsevogn (sausage wagon) was authorized to sell on the streets. For over a century these mobile stands have served as a social equalizer where people from all walks of life gather for a quick and affordable meal. While the classic red sausage (rød pølse) was once the primary draw, the culture has evolved to include a wide variety of gourmet toppings and high quality ingredients. The popularity remains high because the stands offer a uniquely Danish form of fast food that is deeply rooted in local history and tradition.    Leer más

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    Heading home...

    6 de abril, Dinamarca ⋅ 🌬 5 °C

    We're eating our last cardamom bun before going on the train to the airport and heading back home to Seattle.

    This trip was a little different than our last several walking trips, more tiring in some ways but great in a bunch of other ways. Notably, we took a little slower approach to this trip to help account for weather that I believe allowed us relax a little more and better enjoy the places we were staying.

    The Faroe Islands had long been a destination we'd wanted to visit and they didn't disappoint. I think our only real regret was being a little too early in the season to do some of the hiking we really wanted to do and to see puffins.

    Denmark and Sweden were great to visit, with Copenhagen being unexpectedly delightful. It would be fun to live there for several months to enjoy all the city has to offer.

    But for now, home beckons!    Leer más

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    Fin del viaje
    6 de abril de 2026