• Nathaniel Stott
  • Anne Archambault
  • Nathaniel Stott
  • Anne Archambault

Italy

A walking adventure through the heart of Italy on the Via di San Francesco and the Via Ellenica Leggi altro
  • Città di Castello

    10 ottobre 2024, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    12.5 mile hike today from Citerna. We started the day at dawn to try and beat the weather, which was calling for thunderstorms in the early afternoon and rain as early as 9am. Somehow we managed to stay dry the whole way to our BnB when the skies opened up. We had a delightful lunch at Angolo 41, saw the cathedral, and grabbed groceries for a simple dinner and lunch the next day.Leggi altro

  • Pieve de Saddi

    11 ottobre 2024, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    A welcome stop for lunch!

    From http://www.ilsentierodifrancesco.it:

    A contraction of Pieve dei Santi, it is built in the place where, according to tradition, the martyrdom of San Crescentino takes place, a Roman soldier of the fourth century, beheaded under the emperor Diocletian for having embraced the Christian religion.
    Erected on the remains of a pre-existing pagan temple, the church has Romanesque forms and therefore dates back to the second half of the eleventh century. With a beautiful bell gable, it is divided into three naves and is closed at the back by a polygonal apse; On the walls, among the plasters, it is possible to glimpse traces of an ancient pictorial decoration. The crypt, below the building, housed the remains of San Crescentino, then transferred to Urbino. A limestone bas-relief on the left wall shows the Saint in the act of killing a dragon.
    A ninth-century tower without battlements, with a typically defensive structure, closes the building at the front.
    Leggi altro

  • Pietralunga

    11 ottobre 2024, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    A long day today from Città di Castello to Pietralunga. We got an early start again, heading out of town in the fog before sunrise. But the weather was good and we made good time.

    The annual truffle festival is happening in town tonight, so it’s a small town carnival atmosphere with games, vendor stands selling truffles and food, and a DJ. We met up with a couple Camino friends to enjoy the evening and have dinner. A great small town Italy night!Leggi altro

  • Gubbio

    12 ottobre 2024, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    A 17 mile day from Pietralunga to Gubbio through rolling hills, airy forests, and expensive views. We're feeling stronger now after a week of walking, but neck stiffness is starting to appear from the long days with moderately heavy packs.

    We walked most of the day with Andrea, who we've walked with in sections for the last several days. He's Italian and lives in the north. He works as a kitchen manager (he dislikes being called a chef) in a Michelin restaurant so the discussion about food had been incredible.

    Gubbio is another walled city built on a hillside. There's an ancient Roman amphitheater (the second largest in the world next to the colosseum in Rome) and countless beautiful streets and buildings. We enjoyed a full rest day in the city, allowing us to sleep in, eat well, and explore this beautiful city.
    Leggi altro

  • Aggrotourismo Il Beccafico

    14 ottobre 2024, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    A relatively short day today to get use back in the swing after a rest day. The weather was sunny and warm, with a few welcome breezes to cool us down.

    Tonight we're staying in an Aggrotourismo, in this case an alpaca farm. It was great to get in early and enjoy a glass of wine looking over the hills and valleys.Leggi altro

  • Valfabbrica

    15 ottobre 2024, Italia ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    Today's walk started with fog in the valley and an amazing blue sky. We visited the Eremo di San Pietro in Vigneto, and had generally great hiking in beautiful forests overlooking the hills of Umbria.

    There was a rough section of trail that was very muddy, but we stayed generally dry and clean by walking carefully. Asking the way we saw a truffle hunter and his dogs, and just enjoyed the serenity of nature.
    Leggi altro

  • Assisi

    16 ottobre 2024, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Day 10 finds us in Assisi. It was a relatively short walk today with modest elevation gain, so even with a slow start we arrived at noon.

    The walking was good, mostly on good trails and roads but with some muddy sections that could be carefully navigated. We're here for a couple days, which will allow us to rest and explore the town properly.Leggi altro

  • A rest day in Assisi

    17 ottobre 2024, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    We scheduled a rest day in Assisi, both because it marks day 10 of walking and because we knew we wanted more time to explore the town.

    Simply, Assisi is an amazing place. There are countless small streets and alleys to explore and a bunch of sights (mostly churches) to see. The town exudes the history of the middle ages.

    Slightly less awesome are the scores of tourists, which are a distinct departure from many of the small towns we've visited on the walk. Each day, dozens of tour buses offload tourists who walk through the city. Night time offers a rest, the streets calm down and old world charm comes alive.
    Leggi altro

  • Spello

    18 ottobre 2024, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Lunch in Spello on the way to Foligno. This town has the old world charm we've come to expect from hilltop towns, but Spello had a decidedly upscale feel with a long winding main street hosting fancy boutique shops and restaurants.Leggi altro

  • Foligno

    18 ottobre 2024, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Back on the trail after a rest day in Assisi. The walking was good with nice views over the valley and through many olive tree groves.

    The weather forecast called for rain all day, but we saw mostly blue sky. So far we've been extremely lucky with weather. The radar showed a massive wall of rain heading to Assisi in the morning, but it vanished just as it got to the valley.

    Foligno is a proper working city in the Spello valley. A stark change from the tourist mecca that is Assisi. But it felt authentic and it was nice to spend a night taking in a genuine Italian Friday night.
    Leggi altro

  • Trevi

    19 ottobre 2024, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    We stopped in Trevi for lunch. Originally we had planned to stay in Trevi, but as we looked at distances we decided that Poreta was a better choice.

    Trevi is (another) charming hilltop town with old world charm. We caught a bands playing in the main square and it was clear the town was setting up for some sort of festival.

    We were sad to leave without having more time to explore.
    Leggi altro

  • Lamborghini Trattori

    19 ottobre 2024, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Things I didn't know (because I didn't bother to look it up)....

    Lamborghini made tractors before making cars. As told to me, Ferruccio Lamborghini thought the clutch in Ferrari cars weren't as good as the ones he made and when he approached Enzo to offer his clutch for their car, here was rebuffed.

    Motor Tend had a good article on what's probably the truth (https://www.motortrend.com/features/lamborghini…), but it was cool to see this super tractor.
    Leggi altro

  • Poreta

    19 ottobre 2024, Italia ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    The longer days are starting to feel easier on the body, but the feet are still sore at the end of the day. While we managed to dodge rain most of the day, the last hour was spent walking in a moderate drizzle. But we both felt lucky since the forecast was for rain all day.

    The photo isn't actually Poreta, it's Castello di Campello Alto on the hillside above Poreta. That's because Poreta is a tiny town. There are no restaurants or bars here, and only very limited farmhouse accommodation. So tonight is a picnic dinner in the room.
    Leggi altro

  • Poreta to Spoleto

    20 ottobre 2024, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    The walk today started in the mist. The bulk of our elevation gain happened right away as we climbed to Bazzano Superiore. We also saw our first trail marker with a distance to Rome!

    During the climb up the road, we met a nice gentleman who was getting back from hunting boar. He struck up a conversation (with Anne in French) and was sorry we weren't staying longer so we could join him for olive oil pressing.

    More climbing through olive trees ready to harvest and then into Spoleto for a rest day.
    Leggi altro

  • A day in Spoleto

    21 ottobre 2024, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    A rest day walking around Spoleto. Like Assisi, everything here is hills. But they have three sets of escalators serving the town that make it easy to move around. The highlights are the cathedral, the views from the rocca, and the viaduct.Leggi altro

  • Sensati

    22 ottobre 2024, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    A stop along the walk today called Sensati. It's full of art and fun and is sustained via donations, hence the name "donativo."

    We enjoyed the art and sat on a wood bench for lunch.

  • Spoleto to Macenano

    22 ottobre 2024, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    A fine walk today in the mountains. The way out of Spoleto was detoured, which made for a fun highway crossing. But the climb up Monte Luco commenced with haste.

    We quickly moved into beautiful deciduous forests showing their fall colors and limestone cliffs. The downhills was steep and rocky, but the last 3 miles were along a river valley and babbling brook.Leggi altro

  • Marmore Falls

    23 ottobre 2024, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    From Wikipedia:

    "The Cascata delle Marmore or Marmore Falls is a tiered, man-made waterfall in Italy, created by the Romans in 271 BC. At 165m (541 feet) tall, it is the largest man-made waterfall in the world.

    In ancient times, the Velino River fed a wetland in the Rieti Valley. In 271 BC, in order to reclaim the land (and to possibly remove the supposed threat of malaria to the nearby city of Rieti), the Roman consul Manius Curius Dentatus ordered the construction of a canal (the Curiano Trench) to divert the stagnant waters over the cliff near Marmore, thus directing it into the Nera River below.

    Lack of maintenance in the canal resulted in a decrease of flow that eventually allowed the wetland to reappear. In 1422, Pope Gregory XII ordered the construction of a new canal to restore the original flow (the Gregorian Trench or Rieti Trench). In 1545, Pope Paul III ordered that a new canal be built (the Pauline Trench). The plan was to expand the Curiano Trench and to build a regulating valve to control the flow. Upon its completion in 1598, Pope Clement VIII inaugurated the new work and named it after himself: the Clementine Trench. Over the following two centuries, the canal and the Nera often created flooding issues for the valley below. In 1787, Pope Pius VI ordered architect Andrea Vici to modify the leaps below the falls, giving the falls their present look and finally resolving the majority of the problems.

    Lord Byron visited the waterfall and referenced it in the narrative poem Childe Harold's Pilgrimage, published between 1812 and 1818.

    In 1896, the newly formed steel mills in Terni began using the water flow in the Curiano Trench to power their operation. In the following years, engineers began using the water flow to generate electricity."
    Leggi altro

  • Piediluco

    23 ottobre 2024, Italia ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    An early start today to get to Marmore Falls during the water release. We started at dawn and while rain was forecast all day, we only had a couple times where the rain required extra protection.

    The walking was mostly flat so we made good time and as the days pass we're certainly feeling stronger.

    Tonight we're at a hotel with a nice view over the lake, though no pictures because of the rain 🤨
    Leggi altro

  • Poggio Bustone

    24 ottobre 2024, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    The forecast today was for rain all day. Which was daunting because today also had about 3000ft of elevation gain and was 13 miles. Luckily, again, we stayed dry all day!

    First stop off the day was Labro, where we had coffee and a quick break looking down at Piediluco before continuing up up up, finally reaching the Faggio di San Francesco (a beech tree where St. Francis sheltered, though at 250 years old, certainly not the same tree). We had lunch at the church, admiring fall colors and moody skies before descending (mostly) to Poggio Bustone.

    Finished the day with a fantastic dinner of tartar, pasta, and cocktails at L' Antico Arco Osteria Enoteca.
    Leggi altro