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Lofoten 2024
  • Erling Vågnes
7月 – 8月 2024

Lofoten 2024

Panned four weeks paddling in Lofoten with Stein Kynø and Karianne Vintervoll もっと詳しく
フォローする概要カレンダー共有共有死ぬまでにやっておきたいことリスト
最新のものから
  • 旅行の開始
    2024年7月13日
  • Erling VågnesLofoten 2024旅行者

    Scandic Meyergården Mo i Rana

    2024年7月11日, ノルウェー ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Kom oss i hus. 964 km. Stappfullt Hotel og parkering. Ramsund i morra

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  • Erling VågnesLofoten 2024旅行者
    Waiting on the ferry from Bognes to Lødingen
    Stein and Pål at Pål and family's farmPacking the kayaks (hidden in the weeds)

    Mo i Rana til Ramsund

    2024年7月12日, ノルウェー ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Another ca 500 km to Ramsund driven-1400 km all in all. Kayaks packed. Tomorrow we are off.
    En route we stopped at Stein’s friend Pål Brotkorb at Evenskjær. He kindly helped us out with accommodation for the night at Ramsund.
    He also offered us a local perspective on tourism. Suffice to say that when about 700 000 tourists visit Lofoten every year, that is about the population of Oslo. But Lofoten has a lot less developed utilities, like sewage system. The results can be a bit messy, like when campers empty their holding tanks by the wayside on Pål and family’s farm.
    At the same time there are massive (billions of dollars worth) of roads being built. Not to get more tourists in, but to get the salmon out.
    As they say in my neck of the woods: “No one is more in a hurry than a dead salmon”    もっと詳しく

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  • Erling VågnesLofoten 2024旅行者
    After some serious scissor work Karianne cut her maps down to size for loading into the kayakAlmost good to goWind and waves were not a problemKarianne caught a sizeable cod on the first attemptLunchErling had his lap full of fish when arriving at RitværCamp with a view

    Lofoten-Vesterålen 2024 Day 1/13 July

    2024年7月13日, ノルウェー ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Day 1/13 July. Ramsund to Rotvær. 32 km. Start 1120. Arrive 2000. Sun and no wind made for perfect paddling conditions.
    COD very willing to bite fed us, both for lunch and dinner. For dinner we had fried fish with boiled fish as the side dish.
    Tomorrow we paddle on to Lofoten. Starting with a 3 hour crossing.
    Weather forecast is excellent.    もっと詳しく

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  • Erling VågnesLofoten 2024旅行者
    Trip so far
    Nice place for lunchOne more photo of lunchStore Svellingen second campsiteDinner

    Rotvær to Store Svellingen

    2024年7月14日, ノルウェー ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Day 2/14 July. Rotvær til Store Svellingen. 28 km. Depart 1100 arrive 1930.
    Some long crossings, good weather and no incidents.
    Karianne catched today’s dinner. It is varied fare, today’s main course was mackerel, and again boiled saithe for a side dish. We found another nice beach, easy to get in on high tide AND will be easy to get out as well.
    Tomorrow we head for Lille Molla, where we will meet up with our friends Ann-Cathrin and Sigurd. They will paddle up from their place in Henningsvær (Lysholm brygga).
    Tomorrow will be mostly shielded paddling and weather forecast is good.    もっと詳しく

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  • Erling VågnesLofoten 2024旅行者

    Store Svellingen to Litlmolla

    2024年7月15日, ノルウェー ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Store Svellingen to Litlmolla. 29 km. Start 1015 arrive 1900.
    Still perfect conditions. Today we started a little earlier - but no compromise on morning swim and two cups of coffee & breakfast.
    First stop was Risvær where we could buy ice cream. Well. Risvær is a fully licensed resort conference location so we could have bought various items, but we settled for ice cream. One for Stein and Erling two for Karianne…
    We continued through Svellingflaket archipelago and then took a two hour stop south on Årsteinen. Erling and Karianne had job meetings, Stein supported by making pancakes👍
    Then straight to Litlmolla where we arrived about the same time as Ann-Cathrin and Sigurd. We stay at a very nice campsite at the mouth of a small creek.
    Tomorrow we head for Henningsvær. WP    もっと詳しく

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  • Erling VågnesLofoten 2024旅行者
    Litlmolla
    SkrovaLysvold Brygga

    Day 4 Litlmolla to Lysvold Brygga in Hen

    2024年7月16日, ノルウェー ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Day 4/16 July Litlmolla to Lysvold Brygga in Henningsvær. 31 km.
    We paddled via Skrova (according to the census it is richest community in the “worlds richest country” - fish farming billionaires)
    Then down to Ann-Cathrin and Sigurd’s Lysvold brygga B&B.
    Where we enjoyed a superb dinner with cod’s tongues, cod loin and champagne.
    Breakfast was similarly luxurious.
    And the weather remains spectacular: sunny without wind and people going swimming all over.    もっと詳しく

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  • Erling VågnesLofoten 2024旅行者

    Day 5 Lysvold Brygga til Mortsund

    2024年7月17日, ノルウェー ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Day 5/17th July Lysvold Brygga Henningsvær to Mortsund 30 km.
    A luxurious breakfast was a good start to an eventful day.
    We paddled all five the first couple of hours before Ann-Cathrin and Sigurd turned north to look for cloudberries and we turned south heading for Stamsund en route to Mortsund. It was perfect condition with a few m/s tailwinds.
    Arriving at Stamsund we went for ice cream in the local grocery shop without delay.
    Then some lunch, then on wards through a series of skerries to Mortsund.
    As we handled the boat up on the jetty, a nerve wrecking crushing sound came from Erling’s kayak…
    Upon closer inspection the hull was intact but the bulkhead behind the cockpit had come loose
    As fortune would have it, this was the day our friend Magnus Berg would come over to visit. He grew up here and is back on holiday.
    After the four of us had inspected and discussed and re inspected we concluded that a temporary fix with Tec7 was the answer.
    But where to get Tec7 at 7 pm in Mortsund??
    Answer was Magnus’ old friend Vebjørn.
    So after at 9 pm the boat was hopefully fixed
    We had dinner with Magnus and a good nights sleep in a rorbu.
    Thursday we head for Moskenes. WP    もっと詳しく

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  • Erling VågnesLofoten 2024旅行者
    Entering Nusfjord
    No ice cream!Entering Mosken

    Dag 6 Mortsund til Moskenes

    2024年7月18日, ノルウェー ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Dag 6/19 July. Mortsund to Moskenes. 37 km. Depart 1100 arrive 2100.
    We launched the kayaks veeeery carefully after yesterday’s events. No cracking sounds and off we were toward the world heritage site Nusfjord.
    Same sunny, windless weather, same type of skerries to paddle through. In short: Optimum paddle conditions.
    The entrance to Nusfjord was spectacular cliffs of coarse grained magmatic rock rising vertically out of the sea, with a couple of sea eagles circling high up.
    Nusfjord was very busy with tourists, and lots of young people working to serve us. Including one Argentinian “general guide” meaning fishing, walking, lawn mowing and - paddling! He was just about to leave with a group for a paddling trip.
    We made use of the kayak jetty.
    Nusfjord had three dining places! And excellent fish and chips, BUT they were all sold out for ice cream!!
    Eventually we paddled on.
    The next paddle became a bit of a long slog. For the next 22 km we found no places that tempted us to shore.
    Eventually we came to Moskenes, where we planned to stay te the camping.
    What google maps had not shown clearly was that the camping was perched on cliffs 20 min above sea level with the only plausible entry literally through the sewage…
    Time for plan B and C and D. Plan D problem was that all people along the harbour were only renting and had no authority to let us take the kayaks ashore.
    Finally a slightly elder fisherman appeared. That was Jan Oluf Jacobsen and he owned part of the shore line. So we were good to take the kayaks ashore.
    He also had a free room he considered too basic to rent. We could have it for 100 kr per pax.
    What is too basic for some is luxury for others. Roof was tight, running water and a water boiler. That is a significant upgrade from tenting in the weeds.
    So here we are.
    Tomorrow (Friday 20th) will be a short paddle to Ånstad where we will be joined by Ann-Cathrin and Sigurd again, for Saturday’s planned crossing to Mosjøen and Værøy. WP.    もっと詳しく

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  • Erling VågnesLofoten 2024旅行者

    Day 7 Moskenes to Ånstad

    2024年7月19日, ノルウェー ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Day 7/ Friday 19th July. Moskenes to Ånstad. 8 km. Start late arrive early (1930)
    We got even more entusiástico for the room we got to rent from Jan Jacobsen when we looked out the window and the rain was pouring down.
    No worries, we had a short 8 km paddle to Ånstad in front of us. And anyway, first stop of the day was with Karianne’s friends Lone and Arne. Lone is from here and they have built a spectacular second home over looking Lofoten and Vestfjorden.
    We could just walk over. Lone made waffles and the two of them explained us about both current and ancient affairs in the area.
    Somehow the discussion turned to geology and it turned out Erling had studied with Arne’s brother Tore - some few decades ago.
    Erling got a tip about a very persistent white pegmatite (?) vein. Maybe something to explore.
    Finally we got underway and paddled four km to Å. Another world heritage site. And very well visited on this sunny day.
    Sigurd and Ann-Cathrin was just around the corner so we decided to wait. That decision was supported by an observation of a bakery sign. BUT Å turned out to be another all sold out world heritage site…, well not completely: they still had a couple of ice-cream.
    And no bakery meant time to study the pegmatite vein. (For difficult to comprehend reasons Karianne and Stein skipped that part)
    Sigurd and Ann-Cathrin arrived and after some back and forth to find a place to leave the car for four to five days, we were ready to paddle off for Ånstad. Another four km leg.
    Since time was ample Karianne and Erling decided to fish.
    Lots of very small “små sei” filled up Erling’s hooks. Just to throw out and give them a second chance.
    For three of them that turned out to be a slim chance as a sea eagle swooped down and picked them up. The closest pick up was just 20 m from Erling’s kayak.
    One creature’s nuisance another creature’s dinner.
    After a while they catched enough sizable fish for dinner, and joined the other three at Ånstad. Once the largest fishing community for miles, now completely abandoned since 1946. Only the elaborate dry stone constructions built to improve the harbour and a few house foundations are left.
    Campsite were a bit on the sloping and stony side, but served the purpose. Tomorrow we aim for Værøy. Weather permitting. The one concern we have is the sea fog which has been flowing over from the outside of Lofoten all day. But on this side visibility is good. Fingers crossed.    もっと詳しく

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  • Erling VågnesLofoten 2024旅行者
    Nice straight path across Moskenes straumenBreakfast at ÅnstadLeaving ÅnstadAll good to crossMosken, this is where we are headingOld fishermen's cabin on the skerries north of Mosken. Used during "seifisket"Kayak parkingDinner at the "terrace" outside Ann-Cathrin and Sigurd's tent. Which was perched high up on a rockEm route to MåstadMåstad in the distanceAnn-Cathrin's picture of Sigurd at the topSun's up but it's bed time all the sameMidnight in the camp

    Day 8 Ånstad to Værøy

    2024年7月20日, ノルウェー ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Day 8/Saturday 20th of July. 26 km. Ånstad was a good site to land the kayaks, but medium minus to pitch the tents.
    Or maybe the medium sleep quality was not down to the rocky ground but more the anticipation of Moskenesstraumen today.
    Anyway, for once we were on time on the water at 1002 to have some time to adjust for currents before the turn of the current at 1130.
    In short we planned carefully and successfully to make the crossing of Moskenesstraumen uneventful.
    And we succeeded. Crossing over 45 minutes before the turn of the current meant flat water and no issues at all, and soon we were in between the skerries north of Mosken. Lots of birds and probably good fishing grounds, not a place to be on a windy day, but our weather was perfect.
    We padddled on to the white sandy beach at Nilslisanden and stopped for lunch looking back across Moskenes Straumen.
    No problem. The protagonists of Jules Verne’z novel “Twenty thousand leagues under the sea” surely got their timing badly wrong.
    We paddled on to Eidvik on the east side of Værøy. Another idyllic sandy beach, but not perfect for camping: A lot of rotting kelp made the beach a smelly option and elsewhere the grounds was rocky and uneven. An advantage to have small tents.
    Since we arrived early we had time for a walk to Måstad, once a rich fishing and hunting community famous for their catch of puffins which were salted and sold southward as meat.
    Now it is long abandoned but with a number of well kept houses used as cabins.
    The track was quite narrow and if anyone falls seaward, that will be fatal.
    Ann-Cathrin and Sigurd decided to continue up the the highest point, but the sandal clad rest of us decided against following.
    About midnight with the sun low on the horizon we went to sleep to be ready for tomorrow’s (Sunday’s) crossing over to Røst, about 25 km open sea.    もっと詳しく

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  • Erling VågnesLofoten 2024旅行者

    Day 9 Værøy to Røst

    2024年7月21日, ノルウェー ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Day 9/Sunday 21st July. Værøy to Røst. 33 km.
    Encouraged by our success the day before we did not do any particularly careful planning for the crossing from Værøy to Røst. We assumed the distance and the corresponding five hours in the kayaks would be the biggest challenge, but five hours is a long time and even if weather was excellent when we started at about 1000 most of us put on dry suits.
    As it turned out the sea state was quite variable, not much wind (5-6 m/s) but the currents created patches of quite confused and at times steep breaking waves high enough that we lost sight of each other form trough to trough.
    Later we learned that the local fishermen never put out nets here, the combination of currents and waves would just move them along. They had quite some respect for this stretch of sea.
    In the end the crossing was uneventful with the good weather more than compensating for the sea state.
    We arrived after about four and a half hours and found ourselves a sandy beach for a long break with pancakes.
    Afterwards we paddled the last few km to Røst where Karianne had arranged with Steinar Greger for us to park the kayaks on a jetty, pitch our tents in a garden and have dinner at Steinar’s pub “Skomvær kroa”.
    A very good day. Tomorrow we will paddle on to Somvær, weather permitting. The forecast says ca 10 m/s against in the morning, so we plan for a late start. Which means that we will miss the ferry. So we have decided to take a rest day here at Røst on Tuesday waiting out some bad weather.    もっと詳しく

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  • Erling VågnesLofoten 2024旅行者
    Lazy morning waiting on weather
    Our view of the incoming ferryView from the ferryOn route to TrenykenLanding at SkomværA shortish swim at SkomværWaffle timeFog coming in on the way backArriving with the same ferry that we met on the way outThe trip so far

    Day 10 Røst to Skomvær and back

    2024年7月23日, ノルウェー ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Day 10. Monday 22 July. Røst-Skomvær-Røst. 33 km.
    Given the winds overnight and in the morning we got off to a late 1240 start. Just in time to catch the incoming ferry from Moskenes.
    Weather was very good, and head winds below forecast so we decided to paddle on the outside down and inside back to see the most of the steep islands that is the world famous bird’s paradise outside Røst.
    The birds have left their nests now, but still we paddled past numerous flocks of puffin, alke and lomvi and lots of birds overhead as well.
    On Trenyken we counted eight eagles patrolling the side of the mountain probably looking for any laggard birds to have for dinner. Most of the eagles were youngsters without the characteristic white tail.
    We arrived at Skomvær after ca three hours at the Sam time as a small group of tourists.
    We took some time to find a good place to land the kayaks, but at a falling tide we just perched on a small ledge.
    In the summer Skomvær is inhabited by artists that get to use the island for their purposes. This year it was a group of three Swiss musicians. When tourist arrive they double as waffle and coffee servers.
    We had a very pleasant break in the company of the six tourists and their very knowledgeable guide.
    As we got in the boats shortly before 1800 wind had turned 180 degrees (as forecast) head winds out head winds home…
    Also the sea fog came in limiting visibility.
    We took the shorter inner route and managed to get back just in time (2045). to compete with the ferry from Bodø about who should go first into the harbour. We gave way.
    Jokes aside. With the limited visibility we were happy for the option to navigate on GPS allowing for precise navigation and staying out of the main ship lane at all times.
    For the late dinner we had halibut that we had bought from Steinar. 2 kilos. Not a trace left over.
    Tuesday will be a “Rest and Repair” day. And then we take the late ferry over to Moskenes and start from there on Wednesday.    もっと詳しく

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  • Erling VågnesLofoten 2024旅行者

    Day 11 Ferry back to Moskenes

    2024年7月23日, ノルウェー ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Day 11/Tuesday 24th of July. 0 km.
    Tuesday (day 11) was spent with rest, repair and resupply at Røst. A rainy and a bit windy day.
    The one problem we had was the 1.6 km distance from where the five kayaks lay to the ferry we were planning to take back to Moskenes.
    What we discovered was that if you have a problem at Røst, then the solution is our friend Steinar Greger.
    Steinar showed up with a truck and transported all the kayaks in one go.
    After a lazy day we were ready for the ferry in good time.
    Stein’s new friend the Gregersen couple very kindly took all our luggage in their car and drove it onto the ferry. Pick up in Moskenes.
    Carrying the half empty kayaks was no problem with ten hands to help.
    Actually twelve hands, because off the ferry came our good paddling mate Odd Johan Resser! He and his wife planned an overnight trip to Skomvær on Wednesday.
    On the ferry we found out that if you need a late dinner, the late ferry from Røst is not the answer. The “kitche” closes before the ferry leaves. Overpriced sandwiches. Next time we will ask Steinar to cook us a meal :-)
    Arriving in Moskenes shortly after midnight, offloading kayaks and luggage, carrying kayaks, bidding farewell to Ann-Cathrin and Sigurd who ran to Å to fetch their car and drive back to Henningsvær.
    All done light were out in Jan Jakobsen’s rir by room around 0130.
    Luckily the tides are such that we were in no hurry to get to Lofotodden and Moskenes straumen tomorrow (Wednesday)    もっと詳しく

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  • Erling VågnesLofoten 2024旅行者
    1

    Day 12 Moskenes to Horseidstranda

    2024年7月25日, ノルウェー ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Day 12 Wednesday 25th of July. Moskenes to Horseidstranda 47 km.
    After the late end of yesterday we were content with a 11 o’clock start. We had ample time, the controlling part of today is past Lofotodden and the Moskenes current. We have until six pm to get past and only one and a half hour to get down.
    It was a comfortable paddle in good conditions and with tail currents we swept past Lofotodden.
    In a matter of a few tens of meters we passed form the calmness of the inner side of Lofoten to the meter plus ocean swell of the outside.
    There is a lot is energy in that swell. Add wind or currents and it tends to get interesting.
    But today was a day of perfect conditions and we paddled through some narrow cracks in the skerries to get to “Hell beach” in Hellvika.
    After a leisurely lunch we paddled on toward Bunesstranda. One of the more famous of the sandy beaches of Lofoten.
    We arrived at 2000 and found a lot of sand. So must sand that we would have to carry quite a lot to get the kayaks safe. We are paddlers not “sherpas”. Also campsites were not optimal.
    After scouting out conditions we decided to paddle on to Horseidstranda.
    That made for another late arrival, but also for a much better solution for the kayaks and camping.
    There were tens of other people of various nationalities camping there, but no problem to pitch the tent if you weren’t particular about a view to the midnight sun.
    We were more particular about a pre midnight dinner, but we just failed…
    The longest paddle this trip, but conditions were such that it wasn’t too hard. Tomorrow, Thursday we head toward Ramberg. WP.    もっと詳しく

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  • Erling VågnesLofoten 2024旅行者
    1

    Day 13 Horseidstranda to Ramberg

    2024年7月25日, ノルウェー ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Day 13/25th of July. Horseidstranda to Ramberg. 21 km. Start 1240 to arrive 2100.
    Maybe it was because it was day 13? Anyway the day was a bit of a long slog with strong headwinds (7+ m/s) hampering our progress.
    We sat an all time record for this team in slow paddling.
    After four hours we made the first landing of the day on some boulders. A bit wettish but otherwise ok for a much needed break.
    After the break we changed direction and made good progress the last 8 km.
    First stop at Ramberg was “Bunnpris”, local franchise of a Norwegian grocery chain.
    Quite busy. We half joked that it might be the busiest Bunnpris in Norway. Turned out that was no joke: in the midst of the tourist season the store was regularly on the top three in terms of turnover!
    After resupply we just paddled back a short distance to a small islet just outside Ramberg where we found a nice small beach with some grass behind for the tents.
    A short but hard day ended with (almost) midnight sun for dinner    もっと詳しく

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  • Erling VågnesLofoten 2024旅行者
    Picture taken by Stein's friend Helge Mikal as we paddled out of RambergReady to cross to UtakleivPan cakes in the making at UtakleivGetting ready for the midnight paddleAlmost midnight in camp

    Day 14 Ramberg to Mjåstad

    2024年7月26日, ノルウェー ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Day 14/Friday 26th of July. Ramberg to Mjåstad. 37 km/392 km total. Start 1230 arrive 2200
    A late dinner makes for a late start but conditions were perfect with sun and light tailwinds so we were hoping to make good progress anyways and at least get to Unstad.
    After having paddled for 15 minutes we saw a man waving at us from shore: “Anyone there named Stein?” He shouted.
    It turned out to be a friend of a neighbor or the neighbor of a friend. It is not not possible to keep track of the provenance of all Stein’s friends and acquaintances…, they keep showing up in unlikely places.
    After a short chat we paddled on.
    We lunched at Utakleiv, a place Stein also visited with Per Wilhelm Johnsen in 1998. Then a dominated by agriculture, it’s still is well run fields, but now also with a twenty or so campervans and a few tents. And a set of simple camping facilities built by the community.
    Onward we paddled past Unstad beach hoping to find a nice landing near Eggum.
    No luck, we only found a very bead landing.
    Paddling on we came to Mjåstad, A very nice sandy beach, with a very clear sign: No camping.
    We got a tip that it might be possible to camp closer to the new harbour. It turned out the nice “no camping” beach was the old harbour, which was buried in sand after a new break water was built…
    In the end we found a very good spot to camp near the new harbour.
    We also met another Argentinian paddling guide taking twenty or so paddlers out for a midnight paddle.
    That reminded us it was about time to make dinner.
    Tomorrow (Saturday) we aim for Laukvik.    もっと詳しく

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  • Erling VågnesLofoten 2024旅行者
    Borgvær
    Argentinian (?) fish soupLunch at HovA bit of rainDinner in Laukvik

    Day 15 Mjåsund to Laukvik

    2024年7月28日, ノルウェー ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Day 15/Saturday 27 July. Mjåsund to Laukvik. 33 km/425 total. Start ca 1100 arrive ca 2000.
    We had a leisurly morning, but not too leisurely; rain was coming.
    So around 1100 we paddled off through Borgvær, a now abandoned community turned into a nature reserve.
    Then we continued on toward Hov. And the rain came.
    Fortunately, Hov has a big horse riding center. Replete with a restaurant. So we had an excellent lunch in a dry and warm restaurant where we were taken well care of by the Argentinian that was in charge of the kitchen.
    There seems to be quite an Argentinian presence around Lofoten.
    Next we started crossing toward Laukvik. Now it was really pouring down. But in a kayak we are clad to be dry in a wet environment, so it is a good place to be in the rain.
    And by the time we arrived at Laukvik Camper camping, it was raining a bit less, but still very wet.
    We had a bit of hassle to get the kayaks ashore and the tents pitched, but then it was time for the local cafe and the one course on the menu; a superb lamb stew.
    Then it was time to get in the sleeping bags and listen to the torrential rains, but we took comfort in the fact that the camping had a nice service building with a solid and waterproof roof. So we will have a dry and warm place to eat breakfast before we paddle on toward Sortland where we plan to be on Monday/Tuesday.    もっと詳しく

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  • Erling VågnesLofoten 2024旅行者
    Taking advantage of a large dry space
    LunchDinnerCamp at "Playa Slåttholmen"

    Day 16 Laukvik to Slåttholmen

    2024年7月28日, ノルウェー ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Day 16/Sunday 28th July. Laukvik to Slåttholmen. 26 km/451 km total.
    We had a lateish start as we waited out the rain and took advantage of the service room to charge stuff and for Karianne to get some work done.
    We paddled off around 1200 as the sky started to clear, and by lunch break it was the normal sunny weather.
    Then a short leg to a beach on Slåttholmen, a nice spot that we however shared with approximately half a thousand noisy sea birds.
    Tomorrow (Monday) we plan to paddle the 35 km to Sortland    もっと詳しく

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  • Erling VågnesLofoten 2024旅行者
    Morning at Slåttholmen
    BreakfastPerfect conditions across HadselfjordenEirik Bentsen a friend from OKK and Stein's former colleague at "Milslukeren" came out to meet usNothing wrong with dinner on a camp stove, but what you can do with a bit of proper kitchen

    Day 17 Slåttholmen to Sortland

    2024年7月29日, ノルウェー ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Day 17/Monday 29th of July. Slåttholmen to Sortland 34 km/485 km total
    A very good morning to the same sea bird music that had lulled us to sleep (?) during the night.
    We got off to a 1000 start since we had a plan to get to Sortland not too late.
    Conditions were on our side. Mirror blank sea as we crossed Hadselfjorden.
    The northwest side of Hadselfjorden is quite densely populated so it took some time to find a good lunch spot which was not on someone’s “innmark”. On the plus side we were well beyond half way when we stopped for lunch.
    As we paddled on we were met by Eirik Bentsen. A friend from OKK that grew up here at Sortland. He accompanied us in to the jetty at Scandic hotel. Our “camp site” for the night.
    En route Eirik and Stein -old colleagues from “Milsluker’n” got to update each other on letest events.
    Sortland is a place with about 10 000 inhabitants, about the same as Erling’s home village Sula.
    But Sortland is completely different; they have succeeded in becoming the shopping destination of the whole of Vesterålen.
    So if any “Sulalendinger” reads this, it is a bit like if the Moa shopping center was at Devold fabrikken.
    Anyway, it is peak season and even Sortland did not have restaurants enough for all guests, we had to wait till 2100 to get seated.
    But the food was definitely worth waiting for.
    Eirik and a couple of friends came by for a chat and a beer, and only one; time to rest for tomorrow when the plan is first to shop supplies and then paddle on to Andøya, where Stein spent three years some 45 years ago. Therefore Andenes is a prime destination for this expedition. 80 km to go from Sortland.    もっと詳しく

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  • Erling VågnesLofoten 2024旅行者
    Good to go
    Lunch beach at BremnesøyaLandkjenning on Andøya1Looks messy (?) but loooks better than it smells..Lofoten fish soup with Karianne's catch of the day

    Day 18 Sortland to Sørmela

    2024年7月30日, ノルウェー ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Day 18/Tuesday 30 July. Sortland to Sørmela 33 km 518 km total
    We took our time to have a long breakfast at the hotel and then resupply a bit of food before we were ready to paddle off at 1200.
    A bit late relative to the current and also the forecasted headwinds, but we have ample time to get to Andenes where we have booked accompanying from Thursday to Saturday. 80 km in three days should be no problem.
    We chose the west side of the Sortland sound and had a three and a half hour paddle until we reached Bremnesøya. A nice stop for lunch and a last stop before we crossed Gavlfjorden over to Andøya.
    We took our time at lunch, yr.no forecasted 6 m/s + head winds across Gavlfjorden, not a very attractive prospect.
    But even yr.no gets it wrong sometimes, and this time all for the best. Conditions was very favorable. And we continued to make good progress.
    We kept on till we reached the lighthouse at Åknes before we started to look for a camp site.
    It wasn’t easy to find something away from “innmark”, in the end we went in to a couple of boathouses and took a look around.
    We had landed a stone’s throw away from the local graveyard.
    Maybe not the best place to pitch the tents ?
    We walked up to see if we could find anyone to ask.
    We found a local guy at the porch of his cabin, he was from here and knew the area well.
    No problem to camp, where we had landed was the usual place to camp around there.
    A very quiet neighborhood, even the seagulls kept quiet.
    Tomorrow we paddle on toward Andenes, we plan for ca 35 km, to make the last leg a short one. WP.    もっと詳しく

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  • Erling VågnesLofoten 2024旅行者
    Quiet breakfast in quiet surroundings
    Lunch shielded from the northerliesWhile we had lunch the water left, we had to carry a bit to get the kayaks floatingLooks like a dead end, but we found a meter wide opening to sneak thorughCamp in at sunsetKayaks at sunset

    Day 19 Sørmela til Bleik

    2024年7月31日, ノルウェー ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Day 19/Wednesday 31 July. Sørmela to Bleik, 40 km/558 km total.
    We had a leisurely breakfast in quiet surroundings before we paddled off. Navigation is easy in principle; just keep land to the right. But these are very shallow waters and it was often breaking white right left and center.
    The small skerries that have a breaker on every wave is not a problem, but then there are others that break only every five minutes or so. And you don’t want to be there exactly then.
    This made for attentive paddling, and just as well; it makes time go faster than on long flat crossings.
    It took some time to find a place for lunch, a tiny islet just south of Nordmela turned out to be a good solution. Sort of place one finds in kayak, but not in a larger boat.
    Then onwards between skerries and breakers for another four hours.
    We had planned for Otervika, but as we arrived there we decided it was “another Bunes beach” I.e. too much carry and not as nice to pitch the tents as we had hoped. So we paddled on to Bleik Beach, and found a nice spot there.
    Altogether 40 km. Makes for a short day to Andenes tomorrow.    もっと詳しく

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  • Erling VågnesLofoten 2024旅行者
    The lawn mowers moved in even before we had taken down the camp
    Entering AndenesKarianne found a washing machineThe break water at Andenes a 19th century construction marvelSome real force at play here during winter stormsThe usual spectacle, but now with clean clothesA Jurassic Ichtyosaur or "fish lizard" found on the east coast. The geologist is getting enthusiasti

    Day 20 Bleik to Andenes

    2024年8月1日, ノルウェー ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Day 20/Thursday August 1st. Bleik to Andenes. 12 km 570 km total.
    We were in no hurry, but eager to get to Andenes we got off shortly after 1000.
    6 m/s tail winds made the paddle to Andenes a swift one. Same seascape, lots of skerries and breakers, but no problem with good visibility.
    We arrived at the rorbu where we will stay, all very well, but no washing machine!
    Turned out there was one for rental in the basement beneath the local Polar Museum/Geo museum/Souvenir shop/Waffle House…
    Currently Andenes is known foremost for two things: Space center/satellite launch site and whale safaris.
    Space tourism is not on our itinerary, but a whale safari might be of interest. Turned out all was booked for Friday. This is high season and even if Veaterålen is not as famous as Lofoten, the scenery and attractions draw a lot tourists here as well.
    Having arrived at this key destination of the trip we all felt a bit discharged, but not worse than we managed to visit the local restaurant “Lysthuset Sørvesten”. Local fare like whale steak on the menu.
    Tomorrow we will do sightseeing in Andenes and otherwise have a “rest and repair day”.
    No paddling.    もっと詳しく

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  • Erling VågnesLofoten 2024旅行者
    Kayaks were high and dry
    The clothes were not so dryWe hired a car, it was OK, but it was form Notodden...Stein in his old officeTaking a rest outside a medium kept building in the old Skarstein Salem campLunch at Coop Prix in BleikLocal wildlife en route across the bogsIt takes a geologist to get exited by this piece of rusty pipe!

    Rest and excursion day at Andenes

    2024年8月2日, ノルウェー ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Day 21/Friday 2nd August. 0 km. Today’s plan was hire car and have Stein guide us around his old territory in and around Andenes.
    When Stein was here 46 years ago as platoon leader, Andenes was a military hub with ca 1500 military personnel out of 8000 inhabitants in the municipality.
    Today there are maybe 150 left. So a lot has changed.
    Many former military buildings have become private accommodation often well kept and upgraded.
    Others are perhaps still military with minimum maintenance to keep dilapidation at bay.
    And other buildings are just left to disappear. The latter was very successful in the case of Stein’s old office which was completely rewilded!
    While we were driving around in the car Karianne read aloud from the local history wiki.
    Short summary: Andenes has been a very important community in Vesterålen for hundreds of years, particularly due to the rich fishing on both sides of the island.
    Adding that (at least some geologists) think that Andøya was ice free during the last ice age, it may have been an important toe hold for flora and fauna for more than 100 thousand years.
    Jokes aside the depth and complexity of the history of places like this, gives pause for thought for “capital city” dwellers like ourselves.
    And Andøya does not go backwards into the future. We drove past installations of the current “cornerstone” activity: Space exploration and satellite launches, and. We also drove past a big plant where they prepare to do onshore salmon farming, maybe the next step forward.
    In short Andøya has seen massive changes in its economy over the last decades, but has managed well and is still thriving.
    The one constant is fisheries, the harbor is still full of fishing vessels of all sizes, and there is a lot of foshing gear in the water as we paddle past.
    We lunched at Bleik, in the CoopPrix shop that has an attached cafe lite.
    When a community gets down to a certain size and cars make services centralized, the local shop becomes a key hub for the community. This we have seen all along the coasts we have paddled.
    Since this was a day of special interests, we also took the time needed for Erling to localize an old well head from the early seventies, when the company Norminol drilled four exploration wells for oil.
    Part of the team that did that exploration was Erling’s former colleague and mentor the late Terje Enoksen.
    And the one person that knows most about the geology and history is Erling’s now retired colleague and friend Peter Midbøe.
    The two has been in constant communication about the geology at Ramså, where a geology excursion is planned for lunch on Saturday.
    The rest of the team has requested that the scribe maybe make the geology a separate entry, for the especially specially interested.
    Will do.
    Tomorrow we paddled on south along the east coast of Andøya.    もっと詳しく

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  • Erling VågnesLofoten 2024旅行者
    Peter Midbøe's map of the geology of the Mezosoic strata at Ramså
    Erling alongside the casing of the old Norminol well at SkarsteinLake in the lower left is the old coal mine, outlet of the river is where the basal conglomerate isOurs tino of the day: Granodiorite or basal conglomerate??A small rounded clast settles the question: Basal conglomerate.Soon the geologist charged ahead up river: where is Dragneset formation??Some fine grained sediments puzzles the geologist as we were about to leave

    Geological stop at Ramså, Andøya

    2024年8月3日, ノルウェー ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Day 22/Saturday 3rd of August. Geological stop at the Mesozoic sedimentary strata at Ramså on Andøya.
    For geologist Ramså is a special place. It contains the youngest sedimentary rocks exposed in Norway, the upper Jurassic to Cretaceous Ramså to Skarstein formations.
    In between is the uppermost Jurassic Dragneset formation, in which a huge and well preserved specimen of a fish lizard were found. Also in this formation is the only onshore coal mine in Norway. Not very successful, and last exploited by the Germans during the Second World War occupation of Norway. Now drowned in a small pond.
    Later the firm Norminol explored for oil here, from 1971 to 1974, hot on the heals of the Ekofisk discovery. And old casing pipe can still be found on tbe shore south of Skarstein.
    More on this geology follow this and associated links https://geo365.no/norminol-boret-tort/ describing the work and insights of Erling’s retired colleague and friend Peter
    Midbøe and co workers.
    More in Norminol here https://no.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Norminol.
    Geology is mostly easier on a well drawn map, and without a hammer distinguishing algal grown rocks may be a challenge. And even a hammer would have been small compared to the tool Arne Dalland, the first geologist to map these starta in detail,
    used: An hydraulic excavator!
    Anyway, having found some conglomeration clasts Erling convinced himself that the basal conglomerate was localized and charged up river along the upward fining starta to look for the Dragneset formation and the coal mine.
    A good location for Dragneset is difficult to come by. The river banks have become overgrown. Time for a new round with an hydraulic excavator?
    The pond that has drowned the old coal mine was easier to find, and that ended the day’s geological excursion.
    Or almost ended: As we were preparing to leave Erling discovered some finer grained sediment within the basal conglomerate (?). This was a puzzle, maybe unwise to leave without further exploration for an explanation?
    Fearing for the progress of the whole trip, Karianne and Stein gently pointed out that the tide was what was leaving and unless we wanted to carry the boats a hundred meters it was time to get going…., maybe Erling could come back another time with Peter? Surely he could explain all if this.
    So in the end this scientific conundrum was left behind for later studies..

    .    もっと詳しく

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