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Lofoten 2024

July - August 2024
  • Erling Vågnes
Panned four weeks paddling in Lofoten with Stein Kynø and Karianne Vintervoll Read more
  • Erling Vågnes

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  • Erling VågnesTravelerLofoten 2024
    Waiting on the ferry from Bognes to Lødingen
    Stein and Pål at Pål and family's farmPacking the kayaks (hidden in the weeds)

    Mo i Rana til Ramsund

    July 12, 2024 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Another ca 500 km to Ramsund driven-1400 km all in all. Kayaks packed. Tomorrow we are off.
    En route we stopped at Stein’s friend Pål Brotkorb at Evenskjær. He kindly helped us out with accommodation for the night at Ramsund.
    He also offered us a local perspective on tourism. Suffice to say that when about 700 000 tourists visit Lofoten every year, that is about the population of Oslo. But Lofoten has a lot less developed utilities, like sewage system. The results can be a bit messy, like when campers empty their holding tanks by the wayside on Pål and family’s farm.
    At the same time there are massive (billions of dollars worth) of roads being built. Not to get more tourists in, but to get the salmon out.
    As they say in my neck of the woods: “No one is more in a hurry than a dead salmon”    Read more

  • Erling VågnesTravelerLofoten 2024
    After some serious scissor work Karianne cut her maps down to size for loading into the kayakAlmost good to goWind and waves were not a problemKarianne caught a sizeable cod on the first attemptLunchErling had his lap full of fish when arriving at RitværCamp with a view

    Lofoten-Vesterålen 2024 Day 1/13 July

    July 13, 2024 in Norway ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Day 1/13 July. Ramsund to Rotvær. 32 km. Start 1120. Arrive 2000. Sun and no wind made for perfect paddling conditions.
    COD very willing to bite fed us, both for lunch and dinner. For dinner we had fried fish with boiled fish as the side dish.
    Tomorrow we paddle on to Lofoten. Starting with a 3 hour crossing.
    Weather forecast is excellent.    Read more

  • Erling VågnesTravelerLofoten 2024
    Trip so far
    Nice place for lunchOne more photo of lunchStore Svellingen second campsiteDinner

    Rotvær to Store Svellingen

    July 14, 2024 in Norway ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Day 2/14 July. Rotvær til Store Svellingen. 28 km. Depart 1100 arrive 1930.
    Some long crossings, good weather and no incidents.
    Karianne catched today’s dinner. It is varied fare, today’s main course was mackerel, and again boiled saithe for a side dish. We found another nice beach, easy to get in on high tide AND will be easy to get out as well.
    Tomorrow we head for Lille Molla, where we will meet up with our friends Ann-Cathrin and Sigurd. They will paddle up from their place in Henningsvær (Lysholm brygga).
    Tomorrow will be mostly shielded paddling and weather forecast is good.    Read more

  • Erling VågnesTravelerLofoten 2024

    Store Svellingen to Litlmolla

    July 15, 2024 in Norway ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Store Svellingen to Litlmolla. 29 km. Start 1015 arrive 1900.
    Still perfect conditions. Today we started a little earlier - but no compromise on morning swim and two cups of coffee & breakfast.
    First stop was Risvær where we could buy ice cream. Well. Risvær is a fully licensed resort conference location so we could have bought various items, but we settled for ice cream. One for Stein and Erling two for Karianne…
    We continued through Svellingflaket archipelago and then took a two hour stop south on Årsteinen. Erling and Karianne had job meetings, Stein supported by making pancakes👍
    Then straight to Litlmolla where we arrived about the same time as Ann-Cathrin and Sigurd. We stay at a very nice campsite at the mouth of a small creek.
    Tomorrow we head for Henningsvær. WP    Read more

  • Erling VågnesTravelerLofoten 2024
    Litlmolla
    SkrovaLysvold Brygga

    Day 4 Litlmolla to Lysvold Brygga in Hen

    July 16, 2024 in Norway ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Day 4/16 July Litlmolla to Lysvold Brygga in Henningsvær. 31 km.
    We paddled via Skrova (according to the census it is richest community in the “worlds richest country” - fish farming billionaires)
    Then down to Ann-Cathrin and Sigurd’s Lysvold brygga B&B.
    Where we enjoyed a superb dinner with cod’s tongues, cod loin and champagne.
    Breakfast was similarly luxurious.
    And the weather remains spectacular: sunny without wind and people going swimming all over.    Read more

  • Erling VågnesTravelerLofoten 2024

    Day 5 Lysvold Brygga til Mortsund

    July 17, 2024 in Norway ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Day 5/17th July Lysvold Brygga Henningsvær to Mortsund 30 km.
    A luxurious breakfast was a good start to an eventful day.
    We paddled all five the first couple of hours before Ann-Cathrin and Sigurd turned north to look for cloudberries and we turned south heading for Stamsund en route to Mortsund. It was perfect condition with a few m/s tailwinds.
    Arriving at Stamsund we went for ice cream in the local grocery shop without delay.
    Then some lunch, then on wards through a series of skerries to Mortsund.
    As we handled the boat up on the jetty, a nerve wrecking crushing sound came from Erling’s kayak…
    Upon closer inspection the hull was intact but the bulkhead behind the cockpit had come loose
    As fortune would have it, this was the day our friend Magnus Berg would come over to visit. He grew up here and is back on holiday.
    After the four of us had inspected and discussed and re inspected we concluded that a temporary fix with Tec7 was the answer.
    But where to get Tec7 at 7 pm in Mortsund??
    Answer was Magnus’ old friend Vebjørn.
    So after at 9 pm the boat was hopefully fixed
    We had dinner with Magnus and a good nights sleep in a rorbu.
    Thursday we head for Moskenes. WP    Read more

  • Erling VågnesTravelerLofoten 2024
    Entering Nusfjord
    No ice cream!Entering Mosken

    Dag 6 Mortsund til Moskenes

    July 18, 2024 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Dag 6/19 July. Mortsund to Moskenes. 37 km. Depart 1100 arrive 2100.
    We launched the kayaks veeeery carefully after yesterday’s events. No cracking sounds and off we were toward the world heritage site Nusfjord.
    Same sunny, windless weather, same type of skerries to paddle through. In short: Optimum paddle conditions.
    The entrance to Nusfjord was spectacular cliffs of coarse grained magmatic rock rising vertically out of the sea, with a couple of sea eagles circling high up.
    Nusfjord was very busy with tourists, and lots of young people working to serve us. Including one Argentinian “general guide” meaning fishing, walking, lawn mowing and - paddling! He was just about to leave with a group for a paddling trip.
    We made use of the kayak jetty.
    Nusfjord had three dining places! And excellent fish and chips, BUT they were all sold out for ice cream!!
    Eventually we paddled on.
    The next paddle became a bit of a long slog. For the next 22 km we found no places that tempted us to shore.
    Eventually we came to Moskenes, where we planned to stay te the camping.
    What google maps had not shown clearly was that the camping was perched on cliffs 20 min above sea level with the only plausible entry literally through the sewage…
    Time for plan B and C and D. Plan D problem was that all people along the harbour were only renting and had no authority to let us take the kayaks ashore.
    Finally a slightly elder fisherman appeared. That was Jan Oluf Jacobsen and he owned part of the shore line. So we were good to take the kayaks ashore.
    He also had a free room he considered too basic to rent. We could have it for 100 kr per pax.
    What is too basic for some is luxury for others. Roof was tight, running water and a water boiler. That is a significant upgrade from tenting in the weeds.
    So here we are.
    Tomorrow (Friday 20th) will be a short paddle to Ånstad where we will be joined by Ann-Cathrin and Sigurd again, for Saturday’s planned crossing to Mosjøen and Værøy. WP.    Read more

  • Erling VågnesTravelerLofoten 2024

    Day 7 Moskenes to Ånstad

    July 19, 2024 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Day 7/ Friday 19th July. Moskenes to Ånstad. 8 km. Start late arrive early (1930)
    We got even more entusiástico for the room we got to rent from Jan Jacobsen when we looked out the window and the rain was pouring down.
    No worries, we had a short 8 km paddle to Ånstad in front of us. And anyway, first stop of the day was with Karianne’s friends Lone and Arne. Lone is from here and they have built a spectacular second home over looking Lofoten and Vestfjorden.
    We could just walk over. Lone made waffles and the two of them explained us about both current and ancient affairs in the area.
    Somehow the discussion turned to geology and it turned out Erling had studied with Arne’s brother Tore - some few decades ago.
    Erling got a tip about a very persistent white pegmatite (?) vein. Maybe something to explore.
    Finally we got underway and paddled four km to Å. Another world heritage site. And very well visited on this sunny day.
    Sigurd and Ann-Cathrin was just around the corner so we decided to wait. That decision was supported by an observation of a bakery sign. BUT Å turned out to be another all sold out world heritage site…, well not completely: they still had a couple of ice-cream.
    And no bakery meant time to study the pegmatite vein. (For difficult to comprehend reasons Karianne and Stein skipped that part)
    Sigurd and Ann-Cathrin arrived and after some back and forth to find a place to leave the car for four to five days, we were ready to paddle off for Ånstad. Another four km leg.
    Since time was ample Karianne and Erling decided to fish.
    Lots of very small “små sei” filled up Erling’s hooks. Just to throw out and give them a second chance.
    For three of them that turned out to be a slim chance as a sea eagle swooped down and picked them up. The closest pick up was just 20 m from Erling’s kayak.
    One creature’s nuisance another creature’s dinner.
    After a while they catched enough sizable fish for dinner, and joined the other three at Ånstad. Once the largest fishing community for miles, now completely abandoned since 1946. Only the elaborate dry stone constructions built to improve the harbour and a few house foundations are left.
    Campsite were a bit on the sloping and stony side, but served the purpose. Tomorrow we aim for Værøy. Weather permitting. The one concern we have is the sea fog which has been flowing over from the outside of Lofoten all day. But on this side visibility is good. Fingers crossed.    Read more

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