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Lofoten 2024

julho - agosto 2024
  • Erling Vågnes
Panned four weeks paddling in Lofoten with Stein Kynø and Karianne Vintervoll Leia mais
  • Erling Vågnes

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  • Erling VågnesViajanteLofoten 2024
    Nice straight path across Moskenes straumenBreakfast at ÅnstadLeaving ÅnstadAll good to crossMosken, this is where we are headingOld fishermen's cabin on the skerries north of Mosken. Used during "seifisket"Kayak parkingDinner at the "terrace" outside Ann-Cathrin and Sigurd's tent. Which was perched high up on a rockEm route to MåstadMåstad in the distanceAnn-Cathrin's picture of Sigurd at the topSun's up but it's bed time all the sameMidnight in the camp

    Day 8 Ånstad to Værøy

    20 de julho de 2024, Noruega ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Day 8/Saturday 20th of July. 26 km. Ånstad was a good site to land the kayaks, but medium minus to pitch the tents.
    Or maybe the medium sleep quality was not down to the rocky ground but more the anticipation of Moskenesstraumen today.
    Anyway, for once we were on time on the water at 1002 to have some time to adjust for currents before the turn of the current at 1130.
    In short we planned carefully and successfully to make the crossing of Moskenesstraumen uneventful.
    And we succeeded. Crossing over 45 minutes before the turn of the current meant flat water and no issues at all, and soon we were in between the skerries north of Mosken. Lots of birds and probably good fishing grounds, not a place to be on a windy day, but our weather was perfect.
    We padddled on to the white sandy beach at Nilslisanden and stopped for lunch looking back across Moskenes Straumen.
    No problem. The protagonists of Jules Verne’z novel “Twenty thousand leagues under the sea” surely got their timing badly wrong.
    We paddled on to Eidvik on the east side of Værøy. Another idyllic sandy beach, but not perfect for camping: A lot of rotting kelp made the beach a smelly option and elsewhere the grounds was rocky and uneven. An advantage to have small tents.
    Since we arrived early we had time for a walk to Måstad, once a rich fishing and hunting community famous for their catch of puffins which were salted and sold southward as meat.
    Now it is long abandoned but with a number of well kept houses used as cabins.
    The track was quite narrow and if anyone falls seaward, that will be fatal.
    Ann-Cathrin and Sigurd decided to continue up the the highest point, but the sandal clad rest of us decided against following.
    About midnight with the sun low on the horizon we went to sleep to be ready for tomorrow’s (Sunday’s) crossing over to Røst, about 25 km open sea.    Leia mais

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  • Erling VågnesViajanteLofoten 2024

    Day 9 Værøy to Røst

    21 de julho de 2024, Noruega ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Day 9/Sunday 21st July. Værøy to Røst. 33 km.
    Encouraged by our success the day before we did not do any particularly careful planning for the crossing from Værøy to Røst. We assumed the distance and the corresponding five hours in the kayaks would be the biggest challenge, but five hours is a long time and even if weather was excellent when we started at about 1000 most of us put on dry suits.
    As it turned out the sea state was quite variable, not much wind (5-6 m/s) but the currents created patches of quite confused and at times steep breaking waves high enough that we lost sight of each other form trough to trough.
    Later we learned that the local fishermen never put out nets here, the combination of currents and waves would just move them along. They had quite some respect for this stretch of sea.
    In the end the crossing was uneventful with the good weather more than compensating for the sea state.
    We arrived after about four and a half hours and found ourselves a sandy beach for a long break with pancakes.
    Afterwards we paddled the last few km to Røst where Karianne had arranged with Steinar Greger for us to park the kayaks on a jetty, pitch our tents in a garden and have dinner at Steinar’s pub “Skomvær kroa”.
    A very good day. Tomorrow we will paddle on to Somvær, weather permitting. The forecast says ca 10 m/s against in the morning, so we plan for a late start. Which means that we will miss the ferry. So we have decided to take a rest day here at Røst on Tuesday waiting out some bad weather.    Leia mais

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  • Erling VågnesViajanteLofoten 2024
    Lazy morning waiting on weather
    Our view of the incoming ferryView from the ferryOn route to TrenykenLanding at SkomværA shortish swim at SkomværWaffle timeFog coming in on the way backArriving with the same ferry that we met on the way outThe trip so far

    Day 10 Røst to Skomvær and back

    23 de julho de 2024, Noruega ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Day 10. Monday 22 July. Røst-Skomvær-Røst. 33 km.
    Given the winds overnight and in the morning we got off to a late 1240 start. Just in time to catch the incoming ferry from Moskenes.
    Weather was very good, and head winds below forecast so we decided to paddle on the outside down and inside back to see the most of the steep islands that is the world famous bird’s paradise outside Røst.
    The birds have left their nests now, but still we paddled past numerous flocks of puffin, alke and lomvi and lots of birds overhead as well.
    On Trenyken we counted eight eagles patrolling the side of the mountain probably looking for any laggard birds to have for dinner. Most of the eagles were youngsters without the characteristic white tail.
    We arrived at Skomvær after ca three hours at the Sam time as a small group of tourists.
    We took some time to find a good place to land the kayaks, but at a falling tide we just perched on a small ledge.
    In the summer Skomvær is inhabited by artists that get to use the island for their purposes. This year it was a group of three Swiss musicians. When tourist arrive they double as waffle and coffee servers.
    We had a very pleasant break in the company of the six tourists and their very knowledgeable guide.
    As we got in the boats shortly before 1800 wind had turned 180 degrees (as forecast) head winds out head winds home…
    Also the sea fog came in limiting visibility.
    We took the shorter inner route and managed to get back just in time (2045). to compete with the ferry from Bodø about who should go first into the harbour. We gave way.
    Jokes aside. With the limited visibility we were happy for the option to navigate on GPS allowing for precise navigation and staying out of the main ship lane at all times.
    For the late dinner we had halibut that we had bought from Steinar. 2 kilos. Not a trace left over.
    Tuesday will be a “Rest and Repair” day. And then we take the late ferry over to Moskenes and start from there on Wednesday.    Leia mais

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  • Erling VågnesViajanteLofoten 2024

    Day 11 Ferry back to Moskenes

    23 de julho de 2024, Noruega ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Day 11/Tuesday 24th of July. 0 km.
    Tuesday (day 11) was spent with rest, repair and resupply at Røst. A rainy and a bit windy day.
    The one problem we had was the 1.6 km distance from where the five kayaks lay to the ferry we were planning to take back to Moskenes.
    What we discovered was that if you have a problem at Røst, then the solution is our friend Steinar Greger.
    Steinar showed up with a truck and transported all the kayaks in one go.
    After a lazy day we were ready for the ferry in good time.
    Stein’s new friend the Gregersen couple very kindly took all our luggage in their car and drove it onto the ferry. Pick up in Moskenes.
    Carrying the half empty kayaks was no problem with ten hands to help.
    Actually twelve hands, because off the ferry came our good paddling mate Odd Johan Resser! He and his wife planned an overnight trip to Skomvær on Wednesday.
    On the ferry we found out that if you need a late dinner, the late ferry from Røst is not the answer. The “kitche” closes before the ferry leaves. Overpriced sandwiches. Next time we will ask Steinar to cook us a meal :-)
    Arriving in Moskenes shortly after midnight, offloading kayaks and luggage, carrying kayaks, bidding farewell to Ann-Cathrin and Sigurd who ran to Å to fetch their car and drive back to Henningsvær.
    All done light were out in Jan Jakobsen’s rir by room around 0130.
    Luckily the tides are such that we were in no hurry to get to Lofotodden and Moskenes straumen tomorrow (Wednesday)    Leia mais

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  • Erling VågnesViajanteLofoten 2024
    1

    Day 12 Moskenes to Horseidstranda

    25 de julho de 2024, Noruega ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Day 12 Wednesday 25th of July. Moskenes to Horseidstranda 47 km.
    After the late end of yesterday we were content with a 11 o’clock start. We had ample time, the controlling part of today is past Lofotodden and the Moskenes current. We have until six pm to get past and only one and a half hour to get down.
    It was a comfortable paddle in good conditions and with tail currents we swept past Lofotodden.
    In a matter of a few tens of meters we passed form the calmness of the inner side of Lofoten to the meter plus ocean swell of the outside.
    There is a lot is energy in that swell. Add wind or currents and it tends to get interesting.
    But today was a day of perfect conditions and we paddled through some narrow cracks in the skerries to get to “Hell beach” in Hellvika.
    After a leisurely lunch we paddled on toward Bunesstranda. One of the more famous of the sandy beaches of Lofoten.
    We arrived at 2000 and found a lot of sand. So must sand that we would have to carry quite a lot to get the kayaks safe. We are paddlers not “sherpas”. Also campsites were not optimal.
    After scouting out conditions we decided to paddle on to Horseidstranda.
    That made for another late arrival, but also for a much better solution for the kayaks and camping.
    There were tens of other people of various nationalities camping there, but no problem to pitch the tent if you weren’t particular about a view to the midnight sun.
    We were more particular about a pre midnight dinner, but we just failed…
    The longest paddle this trip, but conditions were such that it wasn’t too hard. Tomorrow, Thursday we head toward Ramberg. WP.    Leia mais

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  • Erling VågnesViajanteLofoten 2024
    1

    Day 13 Horseidstranda to Ramberg

    25 de julho de 2024, Noruega ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Day 13/25th of July. Horseidstranda to Ramberg. 21 km. Start 1240 to arrive 2100.
    Maybe it was because it was day 13? Anyway the day was a bit of a long slog with strong headwinds (7+ m/s) hampering our progress.
    We sat an all time record for this team in slow paddling.
    After four hours we made the first landing of the day on some boulders. A bit wettish but otherwise ok for a much needed break.
    After the break we changed direction and made good progress the last 8 km.
    First stop at Ramberg was “Bunnpris”, local franchise of a Norwegian grocery chain.
    Quite busy. We half joked that it might be the busiest Bunnpris in Norway. Turned out that was no joke: in the midst of the tourist season the store was regularly on the top three in terms of turnover!
    After resupply we just paddled back a short distance to a small islet just outside Ramberg where we found a nice small beach with some grass behind for the tents.
    A short but hard day ended with (almost) midnight sun for dinner    Leia mais

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  • Erling VågnesViajanteLofoten 2024
    Picture taken by Stein's friend Helge Mikal as we paddled out of RambergReady to cross to UtakleivPan cakes in the making at UtakleivGetting ready for the midnight paddleAlmost midnight in camp

    Day 14 Ramberg to Mjåstad

    26 de julho de 2024, Noruega ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Day 14/Friday 26th of July. Ramberg to Mjåstad. 37 km/392 km total. Start 1230 arrive 2200
    A late dinner makes for a late start but conditions were perfect with sun and light tailwinds so we were hoping to make good progress anyways and at least get to Unstad.
    After having paddled for 15 minutes we saw a man waving at us from shore: “Anyone there named Stein?” He shouted.
    It turned out to be a friend of a neighbor or the neighbor of a friend. It is not not possible to keep track of the provenance of all Stein’s friends and acquaintances…, they keep showing up in unlikely places.
    After a short chat we paddled on.
    We lunched at Utakleiv, a place Stein also visited with Per Wilhelm Johnsen in 1998. Then a dominated by agriculture, it’s still is well run fields, but now also with a twenty or so campervans and a few tents. And a set of simple camping facilities built by the community.
    Onward we paddled past Unstad beach hoping to find a nice landing near Eggum.
    No luck, we only found a very bead landing.
    Paddling on we came to Mjåstad, A very nice sandy beach, with a very clear sign: No camping.
    We got a tip that it might be possible to camp closer to the new harbour. It turned out the nice “no camping” beach was the old harbour, which was buried in sand after a new break water was built…
    In the end we found a very good spot to camp near the new harbour.
    We also met another Argentinian paddling guide taking twenty or so paddlers out for a midnight paddle.
    That reminded us it was about time to make dinner.
    Tomorrow (Saturday) we aim for Laukvik.    Leia mais

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  • Erling VågnesViajanteLofoten 2024
    Borgvær
    Argentinian (?) fish soupLunch at HovA bit of rainDinner in Laukvik

    Day 15 Mjåsund to Laukvik

    28 de julho de 2024, Noruega ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Day 15/Saturday 27 July. Mjåsund to Laukvik. 33 km/425 total. Start ca 1100 arrive ca 2000.
    We had a leisurly morning, but not too leisurely; rain was coming.
    So around 1100 we paddled off through Borgvær, a now abandoned community turned into a nature reserve.
    Then we continued on toward Hov. And the rain came.
    Fortunately, Hov has a big horse riding center. Replete with a restaurant. So we had an excellent lunch in a dry and warm restaurant where we were taken well care of by the Argentinian that was in charge of the kitchen.
    There seems to be quite an Argentinian presence around Lofoten.
    Next we started crossing toward Laukvik. Now it was really pouring down. But in a kayak we are clad to be dry in a wet environment, so it is a good place to be in the rain.
    And by the time we arrived at Laukvik Camper camping, it was raining a bit less, but still very wet.
    We had a bit of hassle to get the kayaks ashore and the tents pitched, but then it was time for the local cafe and the one course on the menu; a superb lamb stew.
    Then it was time to get in the sleeping bags and listen to the torrential rains, but we took comfort in the fact that the camping had a nice service building with a solid and waterproof roof. So we will have a dry and warm place to eat breakfast before we paddle on toward Sortland where we plan to be on Monday/Tuesday.    Leia mais

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  • Erling VågnesViajanteLofoten 2024
    Taking advantage of a large dry space
    LunchDinnerCamp at "Playa Slåttholmen"

    Day 16 Laukvik to Slåttholmen

    28 de julho de 2024, Noruega ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Day 16/Sunday 28th July. Laukvik to Slåttholmen. 26 km/451 km total.
    We had a lateish start as we waited out the rain and took advantage of the service room to charge stuff and for Karianne to get some work done.
    We paddled off around 1200 as the sky started to clear, and by lunch break it was the normal sunny weather.
    Then a short leg to a beach on Slåttholmen, a nice spot that we however shared with approximately half a thousand noisy sea birds.
    Tomorrow (Monday) we plan to paddle the 35 km to Sortland    Leia mais

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  • Erling VågnesViajanteLofoten 2024
    Morning at Slåttholmen
    BreakfastPerfect conditions across HadselfjordenEirik Bentsen a friend from OKK and Stein's former colleague at "Milslukeren" came out to meet usNothing wrong with dinner on a camp stove, but what you can do with a bit of proper kitchen

    Day 17 Slåttholmen to Sortland

    29 de julho de 2024, Noruega ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Day 17/Monday 29th of July. Slåttholmen to Sortland 34 km/485 km total
    A very good morning to the same sea bird music that had lulled us to sleep (?) during the night.
    We got off to a 1000 start since we had a plan to get to Sortland not too late.
    Conditions were on our side. Mirror blank sea as we crossed Hadselfjorden.
    The northwest side of Hadselfjorden is quite densely populated so it took some time to find a good lunch spot which was not on someone’s “innmark”. On the plus side we were well beyond half way when we stopped for lunch.
    As we paddled on we were met by Eirik Bentsen. A friend from OKK that grew up here at Sortland. He accompanied us in to the jetty at Scandic hotel. Our “camp site” for the night.
    En route Eirik and Stein -old colleagues from “Milsluker’n” got to update each other on letest events.
    Sortland is a place with about 10 000 inhabitants, about the same as Erling’s home village Sula.
    But Sortland is completely different; they have succeeded in becoming the shopping destination of the whole of Vesterålen.
    So if any “Sulalendinger” reads this, it is a bit like if the Moa shopping center was at Devold fabrikken.
    Anyway, it is peak season and even Sortland did not have restaurants enough for all guests, we had to wait till 2100 to get seated.
    But the food was definitely worth waiting for.
    Eirik and a couple of friends came by for a chat and a beer, and only one; time to rest for tomorrow when the plan is first to shop supplies and then paddle on to Andøya, where Stein spent three years some 45 years ago. Therefore Andenes is a prime destination for this expedition. 80 km to go from Sortland.    Leia mais

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