Jordan

September 2019
September 2019 Read more
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  • Day 1

    Jordan and beyond

    September 7, 2019 in Jordan ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Day 1 - And we’re off to Jordan - first stop Amman and its sites .

    We start at the top ! The remains of the Temple of Hercules on the Citadel . Constructed between 162-166 CE during Marcus Aurelius’ Roman occupation of Amman’s Citadel, the great temple is larger than any in Rome . Its portico faces east and is surrounded by six, 33-foot tall columns. Measuring 100 feet long by 85 feet wide, with an outer sanctum of 400 by 236 feet!
    From just three gigantic fingers, one elbow once belonged to a massive statue of Hercules .
    Likely toppled during one of the area’s catastrophic earthquakes, the statue fell to bits, but unlike the temple, all except the hand and elbow disappeared. - “The rest of Hercules became Amman’s countertops.” Best guess is that, in its original state, the statue would have measured upwards of 40 feet high, which would have placed it among the largest known marble statues to have ever existed.

    Below after a walk down the hill is a 2nd century Roman amphitheater with 6,000 seats- impressive , great acoustics !

    There’s not much of the forum but there’s s great column lined road and we head out to the markets - all activity : fruit vegetables pots pans medicines and gold and silver !

    It’s getting hot - time for a beer !
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  • Day 3

    Day 2 Wadi Rum

    September 9, 2019 in Jordan ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    So now we are journeying down Desert Highway to amazing Wadi Rum - a landscape of rugged sandstone mountains among an ochre desert floor .

    We meet our Bedouin hosts before getting onto the area. It’s old jeeps for transport which is ok Pippa tells me !

    In the midst of nowhere there’s an old steam engine ! T.E. Lawrence “of Arabia”—the Arabs fought interrupting train passages during 1916 . The origins of the modern Middle East thus trace their way back to the attacks on the trains of the Hejaz Railway desert stop and the refurbished locomotive

    This place is called “Valley of the Moon” and it used to be seabed but the water went and now all that’s left is a huge aquifer beneath which they take water from).
    The scenery: high sand dunes, rocky mountains with incredible shapes, narrow canyons of many colours , impressive rock arches, 4,000-year-old rock engravings,

    It’s a real piece of Mars on Earth as it was used Mars in “The Martian” and possibly Star Wars I think

    We climb the dunes (Pippa sort of happy ) and ascend to a small rock bridge at Al-Hasany Dunes. - Pippa not happy ! The dunes
    occupy a relatively small area, as they rise for many feet accumulating against the slopes of Jebel Umm Ulaydiyya mountain.

    Then we travel onto the Burdah rock bridge, a spectacular 260-foot-high natural bridge - not climbed (Pippa happy) as it needs to be preserved.

    Then we camp but actually tents are above ground and with some electricity and a comfortable double bed !

    Before retiring it’s the stars - however moon is pretty bright but look amazing at 3am !
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  • Day 4

    Day 3 Wadi Rum to Aqaba

    September 10, 2019 in Jordan ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    So we are up and it’s camel ride time back to the entry gate ! Again weird scenery all around and camels taking their time ! We are heading to Aqaba on the Red Sea and maybe a swim !
    Aqaba meaning “difficult place to reach”- as it was surrounded by mountains and difficult to access until the roads . It’s an old strategic port that had been enlarged as in 1968 Saudi Arabia gave them some land !! It’s the right hand part of the V of the gulf and faces Israel / Eiliat and Egypt / Taba .
    It’s hot 32C at noon and rising to 38 at 5pm ! It’s only 30 after the sun goes down . Fortunately we got to the beach and the swimming pool! The resort is blessed with a sandy beach with many colourful fish and some attractively coloured coral via snorkelling !
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  • Day 5

    Day 4- Little Petra and Petra

    September 11, 2019 in Jordan ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    We drive up the valley on the King’s highway and then a stop at “the third best view in the world” (? Odd) we head to Petra .
    A few miles away from Petra is Little Petra , the head of the Nabatean complex — water channels, stone stairways, huge cisterns, and caves.
    Also known as Siq al-Barid, built by the Nabateans, and is believed to be a suburb of the ancient city, acting as a post on the silk road.(Been there!! )
    Within Little Petra is a room dug into the mountainside referred to as The Painted House. It contains a 2,000 year old Nabatean fresco- grapes and small male children .This ancient painting has nothing similar in Petra .
    It’s a good taster for tomorrow and Big Petra!
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  • Day 6

    Day 5 - Petra

    September 12, 2019 in Jordan ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Up early as it’s going to be a long day !
    Built sometime between 1550 and 1292 BC as a capital city for the Nabataeans,Petra is a wonder of the ancient world .It lay undiscovered to the modern western world until 1812.
    Pictures you have seen and even ‘Raiders of the Lost Ark” aside , the images of the Treasury, the Monastery, and the water channels in the Siq (the approach canyon) don’t really capture it ! The awe-inspiring arrival, Petra’s overpowering geology (endless towering, tangled and twisted multi red coloured rocks), its enormous size with hundreds of tombs, going on for miles !
    The approach into Petra takes about an hour on foot. Before you enter the Siq (translates to “shaft” and is the narrow gorge entrance to the city of Petra), there are a few scattered rock tombs — huge cube like forms cut out of sandstone, cliff faces sculpted smooth and vertical, with raised motifs of five steps and Greek style column forms, and dense black tomb openings.
    Thus you enter the Siq : narrow, high, huge . You enter from the top, walking onto a gentle, down slope. On each side of the Siq’s narrow, flood sculpted passageway (sometimes 3ft wide, 200ft deep) are waist high water channels, carved along the cliff curves. One channel was used for agriculture, the other for people and animals.
    Petra’s architecture : carved niches almost worn away, bench forms, watering troughs and the feet and legs of a sculpted man leading two camels down the Siq.
    And then the famous first view of the Treasury framed at the end of the Siq. Even after Little Petra the scale is not what you are expecting .
    The Treasury or Al Khazana (which isn’t actually a treasury but probably another necropolis as there is a funeral urn on the top ) is well preserved, and sandy pink and it towers way, way up 40metres ! We arrived mid morning and it’s all in sunshine ! Inside, the large entrance is a vast, perfect cube of space inside the mountain but no one is allowed in these days .The ceiling is not arched but absolutely horizontal, 50 ft square. Decorated with Corinthian capitals and friezes and probably from 1BC .The Treasury is amazing! Great views from above after a shortish climb !

    Once into Petra the city begins. First a lengthy necropolis of tombs in the
    canyon, then signs of the main city area and the living space metropolitan area of 30,000 people. The tombs are for massive, reaching far up the mountains on each side, crowding and the overlapping accumulating necropolis.
    The rock landscape is extensively carved, and much of the carving has eroded to look natural.
    We meet the son of a NZ lady who married into the Petra Bedouin at their bookshop - jewellery shop.
    Up above are grand Royal
    Tombs which multi red black ceilings and ornate frontages.
    Past a huge natural theatre that accommodated 4000 people , grander tombs, a Roman colonnade, a Byzantine church , a huge free-standing Great temple with massive pillars and the remains (due to clever earthquake resistant design) of Qasr al-Bint
    Then it’s up the mountain via a thousand steps to another huge Treasury type building the Ad Deir or the Monastery!

    Another 600 steps on the return will take us to the view from the High Altar of Sacrifice !
    It’s mid afternoon and it’s almost 39C or 100F !
    We head home , sheltered at first but then on the very bright hot Sun! We have walked over 10 miles !
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  • Day 6

    Day 5 - Petra by night

    September 12, 2019 in Jordan ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Well after a long long days walking we are tempted back to see the Petra by night show . We wouldn’t recommend it but here are some snaps ! It’s basically some flute playing, some singing and an odd story and only then do they turn the lights on ...but they’re coloured !!!! And you get to sit on the aromatic sand- 2000yrs of smell !Read more

  • Day 7

    Day 6 - Dana, Karak Castle , Madaba

    September 13, 2019 in Jordan ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Perched on the edge of a cliff we witness the Wadi Dana, a giant canyon part of the Jordan River Valley, The Dana Biosphere Reserve close- by includes four bio-geographical zones: Mediterranean, Irano-Turanian, Saharo-Arabian, and Sudanian—made Dana ideal for human habitation. Paleolithic people first called it home, but throughout history, it has been ruled by numerous great civilizations: Egyptian, Nabatean, Roman, Byzantine/Ghassanid, and Ottoman.

    Karak castle
    Constructed high on an hilltop in the mid-12th century, Karak Castle was designed to oversee the traders and travellers crossing the lands between the Dead Sea, Damascus, Egypt, and Mecca.
    Karak’s strategic location made it the target of many sieges. The castle stood to see both Christian and Muslim rule, including Saladin. In films Kerak Castle is in Kingdom of Heaven .
    The structure is an example of a fortified Frankish Crusader Castle, using elements of European, Byzantine, and Arab designs. Over the centuries, the castle grew - the Crusader architecture exists mostly on the upper level of the castle and is identified by its dark, rough volcanic rock.
    The town of Karak was once known as the Kingdom of Moab, as mentioned in the Bible. Over two millennia old, Karak was home to the Nabateans, Romans, and the Byzantines before the Crusaders took it over.
    We have a little domestic with a blowhard local threatening one of the girls - the guide sorts him out with the police !
    We snack on shawarma as opposed to falafel...and glass of pomegranate juice

    Madaba
    The world's oldest map of the holy land- this tile map is the oldest known geographic floor mosaic in existence, depicting the Middle East during the height of the Byzantine period. Installed sometime during the late 6th.C AD
    Many of the map’s tiles have been chipped away or destroyed but a large piece of the map still exists illustrating locations and names .The mosaic covers lands from Egypt to Lebanon, including Bethlehem and Gethsemane, and a detailed snapshot of Jerusalem .

    Mount Nebo
    Moses is said to have seen the Promised Land but forbidden to enter . The church has a great view of the Dead Sea , Israel and Palestine . It has become a pilgrimage site .....with 5thC mosaics in the church.

    We overnight back in Amman
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  • Day 8

    Day 7 - Jerash and The Dead Sea

    September 14, 2019 in Jordan ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    It’s Hot !

    Hidden for hundreds of years under the sands of Jordan, Jerash ruins are all that remains of the great ancient city that saw Alexander the Great, the emperors Trajan and Hadrian, and the mathematician Nichomachas.
    Most of the ancient city of “Gerasa”was destroyed in an earthquake in 749 AD.
    The ruins were re-discovered in 1806 and are one of the best preserved Roman cities in the Middle East for Roman architecture, preserved mosaics and carvings.

     Jerash was the trading centre for the Romans, with goods coming in and out of their empire in Europe to the northwest. Petra operated as the trading centre for goods coming from Arabia, Asia and Africa.
    I had no idea of the scale before I arrived and was stunned.
    You come in through a large Hadrian arch and then the site stretches out in front of you , it’s temples and other buildings on hills in the distance.
    Next to the entrance is a massive hippodrome .
    Then there’s another grand entrance before the grand Plaza.
    There are two theatres, one at the southern end and one at the northern end of the city -as it was so large it needed more than one theatre!!!!
    There’s a very impressive Oval Plaza with the colonnades, that’s 90 metres by 80 metres and dominates one side of the city.
    The colonnades continue past even grander temples and the round Agora - it’s unique ! When you circle back you get a great view of theatres and the grand Plaza. So many buildings, huge fallen pillars and so many awaiting renovation !


    Then we take a drive to the lowest place on Earth - The Dead Sea , whIch is actually a lake, or has been since its outlet to the Sea of Galilee evaporated around 18,000 years ago. The pool sits nearly at 1400 feet below sea level . Its famously salty water - 10 times saltier than the Atlantic Ocean - is due to the huge quantities of minerals that have been deposited and trapped in the lake bed over millennia.
    Demand for water from the Jordan River, the main tributary of the Dead Sea, has increased in the last few decades, with water being siphoned off for drinking, irrigation, and industrial activity. This diversion has caused the Dead Sea to shrink rapidly, losing around three feet a year.
    So we take the plunge or rather the Float!! The water is so warm I cannot really tell I am in it ! We float taking care to avoid getting and salty water in the eyes etc ! It’s a pretty weird experience .
    Some of the party take to the medicinal ? mud ! Very black and ? good for the skin !
    We relax in the swimming pool before a drive back to Amman and a last night out on the town with the gang ! It’s been fun !
    Tomorrow is our last day and we are solo !
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  • Day 9

    Day 8 - Amman solo

    September 15, 2019 in Jordan ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    So a rest day and we hit an impressive Jordan museum including Dead Sea Scrolls plus lots of other interesting artefacts !
    And some odd coloured chicks seen on the street !
    A quiet drink in Rainbow street and then the Hotel pool ! And breathe !
    Last night meal at famous Hashem restaurant - falafels, hummus and beans !
    Early start and home tomorrow !
    It’s been fun
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