Days 8 & 9: San Andres Tuxtla

Once again the bus service on the ground exceeds that predicted on line and I am on a single stage service to San Andres Tuxtla. This is another place little known outside Mexico. The town itself is not particularly remarkable but its chief interest is its lying in a tobacco growing region. So if Cuba is inaccessible, SA Tuxtla is a substitute. The Santa Clara factory offers free tours, showing a fascinating display of how the cigars are hand-rolled. Founded in 1830, Santa Clara strangely shares a name with a cake shop chain (founded 1924) which also serves fantastic chocolate milk shakes. You can either get a smoking habit or boost your waist inches---take your choice!

SA Tuxtla is as good place as any to observe traditional Mexican practices. If you hear a high pitched whistle in the street, it may herald the approach of a knife sharpener (see below). A harsher whoosh sound may denote the presence of the man selling sort of roast chestnuts, the noise emerging from the chimney.

A team of musicians is tuning up in the plaza. They are delighted to pose for me although I realise later that they're heading a funeral procession. But in Mexico the lines between the living and the departed are more blurred than they are here and it's not the mournful occasion that one might expect. And to finish on a happy note, the 14th February is approaching and gifts, toys etc. marking the big day are everywhere!Read more