Days 10 to 12: Catemaco

The short journey to the lakeside town of Catemaco leads me to the Posada Bugambilias. It's not very conveniently located, outside the town centre and away from the lake but Chepina the owner gives me a warm welcome. She knows a lot of local people and sets me up with a trip to a nature reserve, the Benito Juarez, named after the 19th century Mexican president. We stand by the roadside and presently the transport she has ordered rolls up. It's a "rural mixto", a small truck so-named for carrying goods---on the roof---and people. There are two rows of seats in the cab but I sit on one of two inward-facing benches in the trailer. I haven't much clue where this is heading but after following the lake for a dozen miles, the road leaves the shore and rises to a small village where they let me get off. There a man walks me to a house where my guide (on the right in the picture) takes me to the reserve. She leads me through some fields and then the foliage closes in until we're in the last swathe of jungle in these parts. The atmosphere becomes sticky and oppressive but is easily compensated by the beautiful waterfalls. I'm pleased not only that despite the dry season the water is running, and I can hand hold the camera for 1/8 of a second.

Catemaco is quite popular with visitors at weekends so it's no trouble to join a boat party on the lake. It's not short of wildlife and swimmers must take care because of crocodiles. Their usual prey however are birds, other reptiles and mammals like the spider monkey if they fall in!

In the continuing weekend euphoria, a threesome (two pictured here) serenade the tables where I'm having dinner. Music while you eat!Read more