2021 and all that

Even though no visible trace remains of William the Conqueror's landing 955 years ago, it's nice to be in an area loaded with history. A ride on the no. 101 bus takes me to Pett Level, which looks like Pevensey Bay where William's forces made landfall. After the soaring cliffs around Fairlight, Pett Level is a quiet reach of shingle with the rhythm of groynes stretching to the horizon. The now decaying stakes parallel to the shore try to defend not against invasions but the endless tides.

Invaders were still considered a threat in Napoleonic times and the Royal Military Canal, which begins near here, was started in 1804 to harbour warships in the event of an attack. It never had to be used and fell into quiet neglect but is still swan-friendly. A few miles on is the village of Winchelsea (with the accent on the Win so it doesn't sound like the west London football club). Founded in the late 13th century, it's one of the few towns laid out on a grid pattern. The magnificent church (once an abbey) dates from that time and although the houses are later, the village preserves a quiet exclusivity.

Having walked a lot today, I leave Camber Sands for another day. These are decidedly more inclusive than Winchelsea, with horse riders, dog walkers and tea drinkers enjoying the sandy expanses stretching another half-dozen miles towards Dungeness. The pancake-flat landscape has a world's end feel and walking back to Rye along the dyke, I wonder how the big fish (pike?) met its fate.Read more