• Mike Walters

Euro Beer & Magnet Tour

A bit of a jaunt around Europe, to see some interesting spots and share beers with a few pals….plus collect a few fridge magnets along the way 💪 Läs mer
  • A relaxing day at the baths!

    24 april 2023, Ungern ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    Time to move on….so we checked out & left luggage at the station, then hopped on a tram to Dandár Thermal Baths, a proper local experience in a smaller baths. Very cheap to get in, with three indoor pools and two outdoor.
    Of course, one of the indoor ones was the cold plunge pool….one old fella gave Christine the thumbs up at my efforts when I got right under the freezing water 💪

    A nice lunch round the corner with a cute begging dog was followed by a short hunt for the elusive magnet…

    ….then a discovery (thanks to Seat61 😉) that our First Class ticket gave us Lounge access at Keleti: a chance to chill, relax and enjoy some complimentary snacks and drinks, before finally boarding our overnight train.
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  • Brašov, via the steam train 🥵

    25 april 2023, Rumänien ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    After Budapest, we realised we had luxury access to the Business Lounge, so enjoyed an hour of free snacks and drink in a calm room before boarding our train.

    First, there was the excitement of our 2-berth compartment, a sandwich and a beer.

    Next we had passport checks done by stern Hungarian and then Romanian Police.

    Our clocks duly leapt forward another hour.
    Then we found we had drawn the very short straw: our the carriage with no way of turning off the heating 🥵

    The steward shrugged her little shoulders and pointed at the buttons and lights on an ancient board….a local fella explained this happened more often than not 🙄

    Ultimately we arrived in Brašov super tired after way too little sleep in our sauna.
    We did, however, enjoy a light breakfast on our way to our stop👍

    We looked across the road to our Soviet accommodation in Bloc 6: what a beautiful monstrosity 👀

    I remembered the Airbnb photos, and our host, Raluca, was waiting for us: this was a very early checkin, at 09:45hrs!

    Up to the 10th floor, with relief: the room itself was great, & she made full use of google translate speech to text to explain all we needed to know 👍

    We were pleased to catch up on lost sleep, and after a snacky lunch, we headed off into town.

    The walk in was not the most beautiful, but the old town made up for it: old, quaint, some work needed in parts but very adorable!

    After walking down Rope Street (“Strada Sforii”) - the third narrowest street in the world - we found ourselves outside the only tea shop in Brašov, and duly went in for refreshment).
    Much banter was enjoyed with the chirpy lady there, who had returned to her homeland after some years in Colchester!
    We asked her for a recommendation in where to dine.
    Normally people will hedge their bets and offer a few options: not this ball of energy: straight in to suggest Sergiana. Deal done!

    We took a slow amble up the hill to the White Tower before heading to eat.

    What a cracking underground restaurant: staff in local costume, a massive low-domed set of interconnecting rooms, and tasty yet refreshingly cheap local fare. The waitress even discouraged us from ordering sides: “too much!”
    Plus some fine local beer from the Ursus Brewery 😎👍

    Finally, a good decision to take a Bolt cab home at the princely cost of £2.33, giving us time to catch up on some snooker!

    Oh, & as we were waiting 4 minutes for George in his Prius, we bumped into another “Interrailing for the Older Crowd” couple we had briefly met when we arrived in Budapest: small world! Sounds like they are at Castle Bran tomorrow, maybe we will meet again!
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  • A Bus to Bran

    26 april 2023, Rumänien ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    A lazy start on a grey morning. Summoned a bargain Bolt to the classy bus station to hop on the bus to Castle Bran, inspiration to Bram Stoker for Dracula.

    Some banter with a couple of young German legal eagles passed the journey nicely.

    The castle loomed majestically over the town below. The path below was full of souvenir tents, and there were far too many people - bus trips and lots of school children….but that didn’t detract from the Castle being a good day out.

    The torture rooms were well worth the extra money, and two young children were shrieking with delight at all the gruesome ways a human could be defiled in the name of extracting confessions! Their mum was squealing in horror as they chose their favourite punishment….

    The final part was dropping down a long lift, fitted inside the original well, on to the moderately daft ‘time tunnel’. At least it saved a long walk downhill!

    With temperatures remaining cool, we tried out Queen Marie’s Tea Room for soup, a drink, and a warm up.

    A grand day out!

    Return bus was due at 4pm, but we already knew that timetables in Romania were more of an aspiration than a fact….we passed the time chatting with an Aussie lady from Melbourne, travelling with her son.
    And of course indulged in a naughty but nice ‘chimney cake’ - a Transylvanian speciality 😍

    Back home, we had seen there was a small mural to visit near the station, but first dined well at FRACT - the ‘friendly restaurant and cozy terrace’. Felt like quite a swanky place, although since we were early, we had the sole attention of the proprietor and the maître d' 💪

    A stroll home admiring the fine old architecture (!) to close off our time in Brašov
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  • Bucharest….Trains & Spies…

    27 april 2023, Rumänien ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    We packed up after a nice stay in Brasov
    With a bit of time spare, we approached the international window at the station to book some seats for future journeys. Lovely lady sorted it all out, with some bargain tickets!

    On the platform, it was clear there were some big school trips on the move 😱
    We muscled our way on to the train and grabbed seats: a man was helping settle his elderly mum into a seat and welcomed us to sit with her.
    Another fella in a smart long coat joined us.

    Then TheKids™ boarded.

    It was soon apparent that they had booked the entire carriage. Granny was frostily telling them where to go (we assume), & smart fella urged us to remain seated.
    With two kids pluckily trying for their seats (the ones we were sat in), we happily stood up.

    Then their teacher told them off, and moved them away.
    Granny looked satisfied.
    Greatcoat grinned.
    We sat back down 💪

    I used Google translate to tell Granny “all the fun of travel”, which made her laugh 🤣
    I showed her our “find my iPhone” which illustrated how far apart we were from our offspring. She showed us her grandson on hers. She gave us boiled sweets: we knew we had been adopted 💪

    We got chatting to the man.
    Christine instantly guessed he was Spanish, which impressed him. He claimed to work for NATO, but after a while I saw through his game & told him I was writing my travel book about how we met the Spanish James Bond on the train. He laughed, but I could tell deep down he was concerned his cover was blown 🕵️‍♂️

    He was thrilled to discover we played volleyball, & showed us a video he had of his daughter winning her first game, with him (in uniform!) saying some words. Even more thrilled to hear about how we also enjoyed snooker - he discovered the game whilst being posted in England!

    The kids left after a few stops, & we continued alongside the Carpathian Mountains: Granny proudly writing the names of the peaks on her puzzle book to share. Turns out you could get the Busteni-Babele cable car to the top. Maybe one day 🏔️

    Eventually, we parted at Bucharsti, with sturdy Granny refusing help with her baggage and heading off to muscle her way through the busy and somewhat tired old station.

    Our apartment block was another solid and imposing edifice outside. Anyone would think I was deliberately trying to enjoy a Communist Holiday. We got the key from the safe, and discovered we had another slightly dodgy lift to get us to the 4th floor.
    Luckily the inside was again nicely fitted out.
    After some noodles and plotting and planning, we set out for a little explore.

    Bucharest is another grand old place in need of some cleaning and investment….but with a beautiful Romanian Athenaeum concert hall and some grand statues.
    A Lebanese place inside the fancy looking Park Hotel provided some fine dining, before the walk home.
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  • Barkarest….Walkies!

    28 april 2023, Rumänien ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    Today was time to explore this grand city, starting with a Bolt to our meeting point: a Civitatis walk with Edward.

    Naturally the first Bolt failed to appear, but when we summoned another, we found him parked literally next to where we were standing 🤣. He finished his orange, and off we went.

    Edward was a very entertaining guide: so much history and architectural knowledge shared, explaining the ‘why’, as well as truth v myth…. culminating in the fall of Ceauşescu….& indeed the reasons he was declare guilty after just one hour of hearing (the Soviets, removing him before he could spill the beans on them, since you asked!)

    We met another fella, Ivan, plus another couple from the Older Interrailers…and a very enthusiastic lady from Dallas, Heddy!
    The tour ran for almost 3 hours, and he certainly earned his tips 👍

    We decided to go for lunch at a local place he recommended, Bodega "La Mahala". There, we felt surrounded by locals - a great decision….& a most disgraceful doughnut/cherry/cream dessert for an extra sugar boost. We only ordered one, but clearly something got lost in translation 👀

    A long and hot walk around the immense Palace of Parliament & the very quaint "Saint John Chrysostom" church was followed by a much needed cuppa at the beautiful galleried Carusel Café.

    That revitalised us for the final walk home….only broken by a dog leaping out and trying to bite me at the Revolution Square 😱

    Didn’t get through my walking trousers, & the owner was in tears….she explained he was a rescue dog, fully vaccinated. Despite my swearing profusely at the time, I suspect he was just surprised by my appearance and perhaps felt I was attacking her 🤷‍♂️
    We relaxed and continued home, shattered after another 20k step day.
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  • Constanta: Casino & the Black Sea

    29 april 2023, Rumänien ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Up early for a day trip to the coast, & the furthest point east of our crazy adventure!

    Well….very early: the birds were inexplicably tweeting at 02:39hrs. That was NOT the crack of dawn 😱 I’ll need to book a rest after Bucharest 🤪

    A full train en route to the resort, & the sun shone all day. A lady with tiny dog kept us all amused, chasing him up and down the train for two hours….I think I was his favourite spot to stop for a pat 🤪

    A long walk took us down to the sea, only to find the classic Casino building in the middle of a long overdue and much needed renovation, surrounded in scaffolding and cladding….. library before picture 👀

    We continued along past the marina, had a relaxing cuppa, and headed to the beach.
    At that point, as we watched absolutely nobody in the sea, I realised that even a paddle would be out of the question….we had to satisfy the need to touch the Black Sea by fingertip alone 🥶

    A climb back up the cliff took us to a nice lunch at the Buddha Bar Lebanese 👍

    Another hot walk back for the fast train home, with a cheeky local Ursus beer on board. Nice to make use of our first class tickets - travel in luxury 🤣
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  • Bulgaria or bust!

    30 april 2023, Bulgarien ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    A lazy start to get a late morning slow train to Ruse.
    Only reason for coming was to add Bulgaria to the list of countries visited 🤣💪
    Aboard, it felt like 90% of our carriage was Interrailers, including a pair we saw on the guided walk and a Dutch couple travelling for a fortnight 🤪
    Some passport passing as we left Romania and entered Bulgaria, then we left the station.

    We found our Airbnb a short walk away, with the most adorable ‘guard dog’ insisting we rub his tummy 🤣
    The apartment was by far the quirkiest we had used, whilst also being what turned out to be the cheapest of our entire trip: technically a 1-poster bed🤪; very spacious, with nicely deployed wall coverings - lovely!

    After a rest, we took a stroll to town, & down to the Danube. Ruse has a nice feel to it: lots of families out enjoying the very warm sunshine 🌞

    We hunted dinner, but the selected local place closed just as we arrived….so instead, we hopped into a quirky smart looking Parisienne style restaurant, Hacienda. Almost empty when we arrived, it filled up as the night went on.
    Probably the “poshest” meal we have eaten, but with the benefit of Bulgarian prices: perfect 😎

    A bit too much of a walk afterwards to see a few more buildings and monuments. Let’s be honest, this was a rest day, & still we covered over 17k steps 👀
    Finally headed back for a spot of the snooker finals before bed!
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  • Overnight on the Dacia Express

    3 maj 2023, österrike ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Our overnight train didn’t leave until almost 3pm, so we enjoyed the rare cooked breakfast then left our bags at the Hello Hotel and took a Bolt to the Primaverii Palace (House of Ceauşescu).

    Wasn’t too sure what to expect from the home of a proper Dictator.
    The building was smaller than I expected, after the immense scale of the Palace of Parliament, but clearly in a well-to-do neighbourhood.
    A faint lack of taste pervaded throughout, but it certainly had some sense of style, & the young lady providing our tour did a great job explaining the rooms and some family history with them.
    Their later spa and pool add-ones were smarter, although it was mildly satisfying to hear they were tried and shot before they could make full use of that part of the home 👀

    Where Pablo Escobar had hippos, Nicolae Ceaușescu had peacocks.
    The current incumbents are 6th-7th generation, but a dozen roam the grounds nonetheless, & we spotted a couple loitering about.

    Worth the visit!
    After that, we walked to the Triumphal Arch via King Mihai I Park. Surprised to find a William Shakespeare head, but even more taken aback by the Michael Jackson Memorial Monument.

    Another cab to the station, and we boarded our Dacia special: 17hrs to Vienna.

    Much more pleasant than the Sauna Special we had before: this had nice a/c, and once we had passed the early stations, we headed off to find the restaurant car.
    Okay….more a tiny drinks bar with snacks…but with a big personality behind the counter!
    Tiron Gabi uses his spare time to carve things….working on a giant water melon, very entertaining!

    Finally to bed…to be woken at 2am for the Passport game with Romanian guards, then again with Hungarian…the clock dropped back an hour, and on we traveled….
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  • Haunting notes, pizzicato strings…Vienna

    3 maj 2023, österrike ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    The train arrived quite early, and we walked 10 minutes to our hotel. A very modern part of the city, with countless hotels and apartment blocks: very smart.

    Sadly, we were too early for our room, so we ditched the big bags and headed out to explore.
    On our way to the city centre we passed through the gardens of the Belvedere Palace: quite spectacular!
    A much needed coffee break turned into a tasty early brunch at Kleines Café…cash only, a theme that occurred more than once in Vienna!

    Refreshed, we reached the central St. Stephen's Cathedral. Against our better judgement, we took the 343 steps up the taller South Tower…narrowing as we climbed, a tough job when we found it was also the only way down, a tight space to pass others.

    It was a fair day, and the views made it worthwhile 😎

    Back outside, we loosely following a route Google Bard AI has suggested. Decided against a horse and carriage ride, and grinned at the many old vehicles also available for tours: we went on through the Sisi Museum, past the Hofburg. Down to an impressive 1800s copy of a Roman Temple, which currently housed what can only be described as a gigantic Dr Who Sonic Screwdriver 🤪

    We turned around at the Parliament Building, and were treated to the rapid and noisy arrival of half a dozen small Police vans….like a scene from the Austrian Sweeney. Two coppers ran past us to join them, & it felt very much like they were surrounding one young man. Who knows….👀

    We noticed some quirky road crossing lights with different styles - an older looking couple with a heart on: bizarre!
    On to the Naschmarkt…an interesting and large market, & a great spot to pause for a refreshing beer 🍻

    From there, we strolled back to our hotel, passing the largest and first Diplomatic School along the way.

    With the bags in the room, we finally headed out for a very tasty schnitzel and Tirol grostl (a local take on bubble’n’squeak!) at a locals place nearby, the Caktus Cafe 👍
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  • And the big wheel keep on turnin’

    4 maj 2023, österrike ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Shocked to find the day before was a record 25k steps, we had a lazy start, and took the U1 to the Prater Park 🎡

    I had a work visit to Vienna around 2001, including lunch on the famous wheel, but I had no idea how large the funfair was!

    The sun was out, and we waltzed past the waltzers….an impressive park, some big rides…..plus we found a delicious Tree Cake maker! Known as Chimney Cakes in Romania: very naughty, but rather nice 🤣

    We finally took our place aboard the “Wiener Riesenrad” - the beautiful big wheel, built 1897, & the tallest ferris wheel from1920 until 1985. Famous for appearing in the classic films including The Third Man (1949 with Orson Wells) & James Bond in The Living Daylights, 1985.
    Having spent a summer working a travelling funfair back in 1984, I felt I had come home 🤣

    As we left the park, we saw a literal Piggy Bank….then strolled down to the Danube, pausing for a cuppa at the fancy Little Britain cafe en route 🫖. Shock news: the owner loved the Queen, but is not so keen on Charles 😱

    Love how many apartment blocks had writing in the walls declaring the year of building….some from the 1920s, others 1980s!

    Along the banks of the beautiful river, we noted it looked almost identical to the view across the Danube in Ruse, Bulgaria, days before….

    We briefly considered dinner aboard one of the cruising vessels, but watching people arriving dressed up, realised I wouldn’t get past the bouncer in my shorts….so we satisfied ourselves with a cheeseboard, apple strudel and drinks at the Cafe With A View 🍻👍

    A final wander homewards before taking the U1 to save our legs…
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  • A First Class trip to Prague

    5 maj 2023, Tjeckien ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Buoyed by reading information about ÖBB trains and lounges, we set off early to find the singing train.
    The lounge at Wein was very relaxing, so I went on a hunt: on platform 8 I found my prize - the famous Siemens Taurus - what a cool musical start for any train 🚂

    Christine became the Woman in Seat61, & our journey was improved further by a very cheap beer and the complimentary film, “Vienna Blood: Deadly Communion” 😎

    It appeared that the Armenian PM arrived in Prague the same time as us: https://en.armradio.am/2023/05/04/armenian-pm-a…. A noisy but fast motorcade, & he stopped near our hotel to leave flowers on a memorial.

    We had visited Prague some years before, so just spent the afternoon wandering about, checking out the Kafka statue and later, his spinning head - quite the sight 🤪
    Dinner was a delicious vegetarian at Lehká hlava - a lovely little place, complete with a fish-less fish tank 🤪

    Final stroll before confirming details for Saturday with our pal in Mladá Boleslav 👍
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  • Seems like only Ještěd-day we saw Ondra

    6 maj 2023, Tjeckien ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    This back end of our trip includes more meeting up with old friends, & today we woke early to enjoy our breakfast and leave the bustle of the City to head to Mladá Boleslav.

    Ondra was our PVC volleyball number 12 for around 5 years when he studied in Leicester, but then returned to his homeland. A big man with a big heart, it was great to be able to get across for a bear hug during our adventure 😎

    On our way, we booked some more trains, & were slightly shocked that there were only two second class seats left on all three trains heading to Berlin tomorrrow…so we grabbed them: didn’t fancy almost 5 hours standing only 😱
    Met a nice lady with her youngsters on board the old train: she recommended the bar, so we all had a drink on the sound basis that whilst it might have only been 9:30am, it was 5:30pm *somewhere*.

    Ondra was waiting for us, & after warm hugs, drove us off to find the space age Ještěd Tower. I had seen photos: it looked AWESOME!
    The weather had other ideas….by the time we parked, perhaps a mile from the summit, there was faint drizzle and the murky mist meant nothing could be seen. We climbed up and up, and eventually a shadow of the tower base was faintly visible.
    The restaurant sign proudly told us it was “ABOVE THE CLOUDS”. Bloody liar: it was very firmly IN the clouds!

    We took some photos, spotted the sad little lost Martian, but soon headed inside: we had a table booked for lunch, & the view…well, Ondra pointed the direction of places, but all we could see was thick fog 🤣

    Inside was fabulous!
    The place was designed and built in the mid-60s, but to a beautiful spec.
    We discovered wifi, & were able to prop the iPad up to have The Kings Coronation on in the background, much to Christine’s delight 💪

    Dinner was delicious! I had avoided the disturbing-sounding “tripe soup”, but decided to give it a try: unexpectedly tasty!

    As we ate, the clouds suddenly started to lift. I ran downstairs to get some snaps, lest it change it’s mind, but the rest of the day saw the weather continue to improve 👍

    It was great to catch up on life, work, family and the challenges of neighbouring countries, & finally we drank the last of our drinks and wandered outside to the sunshine.
    A few more photos and a rather nice zero alcohol pint were enjoyed outside, before taking the steep scramble back down.
    En route, we discovered the useful phrase “I need to jump into the forest….” 🤣

    Ondra drove us back via a brilliant “service area” for ice creams, with a beautifully painted Ilyushin Il-18 serving as a restaurant space. Most unusual!

    Finally, a tour of his hometown, where Škoda employ over 22k people to build cars, but also a look around the old town.

    Farewells at the station, and off we went.

    Back in Prague, we hopped on a tram to seek out the “Dancing House” he recommended….the tram appeared to cost 4p, & the house was very funky.

    A top day of spectacular sights and friendship 😎
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  • Rest day….tickets in Berlin

    7 maj 2023, Tyskland ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    Early start to take breakfast (& maybe some for lunch 👀) before getting our busy train to Berlin.
    Enjoyed an interesting chat on the train with a Prague Uni Chemistry Professor….although the train was very full, our compartment was quiet enough to discuss Prague, the return of stolen historical artifacts (it isn’t just Britain that stole items!), & more.
    A pleasant way to while away the time!

    Berlin hbf was by far the biggest and busiest station we had reached. With seat reservations to book, we took a ticket for the 40 minute queue and blagged our way into the DB Lounge for a cheeky cuppa (they aren’t keen on Interrailers 👀)

    Then onto the very funky Social Hub hotel we had chosen. A huge 7th floor room, with balcony: nice!
    Of course, it is big because the bathroom suggests we have a room for a disabled person….probably took one look at how we shambled in and made the choice!!
    Odd to spot the WWII escape film, Von Ryan’s Express, dubbed in German on the TV, but who am I to judge 🤷‍♂️

    We headed out along the River Spree to seek out a small traditional spot for food & ale, nicely supplied by Zur Gerichtslaube 🍻
    A short walk back to base to abuse my phone by streaming the Coronation Concert to the iPad…..
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  • What a Pain in the Neck!

    8 maj 2023, Tyskland ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Turns out our decision to take a hop on, hop off bus day in Berlin was positively prescient.
    Christine rolled over and cricked her neck first thing….walking all day would be out of the question, but some powerful Ibuprofen got us to the Big Bus stop.

    Berlin Cathedral, Museum Island, Brandenburg Gate, Reichstag on the outbound, & we stepped off past the Zoo to visit the Kaiser Wilhelm Church.
    Damaged beyond repair in WWII, it was retained as a memorial, with a very modern replacement immediately next door.
    I had seen it a few times on work trips, staying in hotels nearby….but there was a new poignant piece about the terrorist truck incident from 2016, killing 13 people at the Christmas market I had strolled through only days before….

    Checkpoint Charlie was the main stop for the return leg. Plenty to see at the point where the Soviet and US tanks faced off during one tense point of the Cold War, & a lot of sad stories of the oppression and the infamous Berlin Wall….evidence of which we found many times around the formerly blockaded City 👀

    Back at Alexanderplatz, we hopped on to the Blue tour route. Interesting to head through the former East Germany, some different architectural styled flats and plenty of art on the East Side Gallery: conserved graffiti on the remaining parts of the Wall.

    A trip back to hop off at the Reichstag and wander past the memorial of the murder of the European Sinti and Roma persecuted as “gypsies”. More sad, and brave, tales.
    Pictures at the Brandenburg Gate, & a look at the stark columns forming the memorial to the Holocaust. Moving stuff 😔

    We also learned the pink pipes all across the city were not art, or carrying gas, but are to take ground water from the many building projects to the River Spree 🤪

    The last bus back, then some dinner from the Vegan Pirates before taking a final S-Bahn home, & a beer in the bar back at the Social Hub 👍
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  • You trying saying it!

    9 maj 2023, Polen ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    We headed out from our lovely room, bade farewell to the funny little red and green street crossing men, and took a quick S-Bahn to Lichtenberg for a breakfast bun and cuppa.

    Our luxury First Class seats actually had too much leg room, almost couldn’t reach the table 🤣

    Once again, onwards: to a new country for Christine: Wrocław in Poland.

    A city with a difficult name to pronounce. The IPA (International Phonetic Alphabet) suggests ˈvrɔːtslɑːf.
    Vrawts-lahf it is then 🤪

    Our large Airbnb was a short walk from the station, and we could set to work on the washing: specifically chosen to allow us this luxury during our two nights here - simple pleasures, & a top-loader for a change 👍

    We set out for a late afternoon wander, & were soon discovering the Gnomes of Wrocław!
    The little people are everywhere in the old town….had to stop photographing them after a while.
    A very grand main square with a beautiful Town Hall: parts date back to the 1300s, & it fortunately only suffered minor roof damage during WWII 💪

    I took on my roll of Chief Flâneur as we strolled about aimlessly, to the River Oder and across Museum Island.
    Eventually there was the need for sustenance, & by fortune the 4Hops bar appeared to allow us to have a drink and think about where to dine.
    A tasting platter was purchased - 6 of their finest ales. I then realised what I first thought was the cocktail board was, in fact, food, so we decided not to move on, and order some veggie delights 👍
    It turned out Monday was Quiz night: we all know I love a good quiz, but given our lack of Polish, we settled for watching!

    A final walk home found yet more of the little people….
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  • Dancing Fountains & Lamplighters

    10 maj 2023, Polen ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Today, we had a lazy start: clothes were washed, then we took a Bolt to the far side of the town: cabbie probably wondered why we chose to be dropped off there!
    Found a cool little church in the woods, then a polite young local cycled up and shared his archaeologist knowledge about the sixteenth century “reconciliation stone” nearby. Also strongly recommended a very cheap Polish cafe in town to eat at, Bar mleczny Miś 😎

    Next up came an Australian-Polish fella, wheeling a severely disabled ex-lecturer…& proceeded to explain how Polish is very misunderstood and how the world was being taken over by Jews. Might just be an ex-Nazi….he spoke of how Norman Davies and some minor Polish Aristocrat were the only ones who really understood the history….when he mentioned Trump’s Warsaw speech as being perfect, we bade him farewell. Very odd 🤷‍♂️
    That said: we read the speech later, & it was fairly on point (for Trump!)….

    A nice walk past the Japanese Garden took us towards the very grand Centennial Hall.
    A beautiful spot, lovely to wander, & we arrived to the hourly fountain show: quite spectacular!

    A few photos of the hall, then a stop for caffeine and very naughty looking cake at the Przełam Lody Cafe, then on to find the very short cable car over the river. Built for the University staff and students, it has become a little attraction in it’s own right 🚠

    Passing a man in a bright green morph suit, we made our way to the Bar in town. A big queue outside, but I went to check the menu….which was vast. & mildly incomprehensible. We decided to pop it in the box marked “too difficult”, & retreated to the extraordinary looking Kalambur, resplendent with giant insect on the wall.
    A Tyskie beer later, we were ready for some more adventure, & found it with two look-alikes for Zelensky and Putin on the main square.
    Finally, some traditional food was taken at Restauracja Wrocławska. Might have overdone it with too many Pierogi’s to start with though 👀

    Fed and watered, we set off to hunt The Lamplighter. One of only two lamplighters still employed in the EU: Zagreb, and here on Cathedral Island.
    A beautiful evening for it, and he duly obliged after turning up with his gas van!

    Our journey home took us past “Tablica Upamietniajaca Powodz Lipiec 1997” - another memorial to displaced people….quite moving, even being either side of a busy intersection.
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  • Katowice or bust…

    11 maj 2023, Polen ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Another beautiful day dawned with the departure from Wrocław.
    We were determined to not succumb to the massive doughnuts we had seen, but crumbled when there was one last chance in the main station….

    It soon became apparent there was a 2+ hour delay to our train 😳

    We got speaking with a lovely Ukrainian scientist, Oksana, making her way back to Kiev.
    One of life’s high achievers, she worked in science, specifically nano technologies in Lviv, but dabbled in a little optical and dental implant work, holding a number of patents in various areas! She also liked painting. The sort of person whom I know would learn to ride a unicycle in 30 minutes if she put her mind to it 🤪

    We looked after her bags while she went to see how she could make her connection another way, & we ended up doing the same, albeit a simple swap to the next train for us.
    Altogether a delightful conversation. We wished her (& her countrymen) well in these troubling times.

    Our hastily rebooked seats were in the middle of the compartment, but were comfortable enough for 2½ hours 👍

    Onwards to the grand sounding Hornigold w Zielonej Kamienicy Hotel for our one night in Katowice. The room matched the name: lots of dark wood, quite grand - very nice!

    We unpacked and headed out - with an early start the next morning, we only had the afternoon and evening to explore.

    First off to the largest Cathedral in Poland, Cathedral of Christ the King. A big modern slab, it had a clean style inside.

    Back in to town to checkout dining possibilities. Not a quaint old town feel, but with a lot of bars and restaurants, it felt pleasant enough.

    I fancied seeing the Silesian Museum, housed mostly underground in a former coal mining site. Katowice was a very industrial area, hence the plentiful flats we spied on our walk….some huge star-shaped ones looking in good shape.

    The museum was a proper treat!
    Under £5 to enter, with reductions for over-60s, it took you to an underground melange of art and history.
    The airline check-in of our personal items was nicely balanced by the young guard asking where we were from. When we said “England”, he asked if it was Nottingham: not the first guess I have heard before, & he was aware of the mighty football town of Leicester….we had to confess it was quite the opposite of mighty this season 😳

    The desk lady was also interested to hear where we were from. I got the impression they have relatively few foreign visitors.

    A shame: the museum was beautifully presented, with a LOT of information.

    Contemporary art, a specific COVID art section, a small but well presented area of old religious pieces, then on to a “people’s museum” area. This outlined the struggles since the industrial age from the 1700s onwards: Habsburg, Prussians, then of course the World Wars and the brutal Soviet Occupation, all laid out in very informative and entertaining exhibits. We were there over two hours, and really could have spent longer.
    Thought we had missed out on one exhibit. Bambini, by Magdalena Abakanowicz. Elsewhere described as “Mad as a monkey with a spanner”, the huge room housing the 83 humanoid sculptures was a delight.

    We left very refreshed after this enjoyable visit. A chunk of the history was about the repression and murderous occupation, yet it didn’t leave us feeling down: a good mixture of things.

    The car park outside had gone from empty to full whilst we were underground. Some well dressed folk heading to the nearby National Polish Radio Symphony Orchestra hall, and we realised the Flying Saucer was next to that. The Spodek Arena is a spectacular venue, completed in 1971. We took many photos before heading over the road to yet another monument to Soviet Aggressions of 1919-1921.

    A return to have our emergency noodles and a beer or three, to the background of Eurovision: exciting show, especially when the Polish entry qualified!
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  • A weekend with MD FD 😎

    12 maj 2023, Slovakien ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    It’s a funny thing, travel.

    With nothing planned, one can invariably sleep until noon….but when there is an early train to catch, sleep comes in fits and bursts 🙄

    So it was, rather tired, we set out very early in beautiful sunshine to catch the 08:14 train to Slovakia.

    We had 4 trains to line up for the day: always something of a risk there 👀

    The first hop to Bohumin was fine, & a 20 minute gap to the next was more than enough.
    However…..that train was running 10 minutes late….& the change at Zilina had only an 8 minute window, which sounded…decidedly suboptimal 👀
    We checked for later options…..but luckily for us, the onward train to Kosice was itself running 20 minutes late. Serendipity, eh!

    A comfortable First Class carriage, the views as we passed below the High Tatras National Park were just spectacular.
    The English announcements were voiced by an affable Aussie, which felt slightly incongruous but fun.

    From Kosice, there was time to grab some flowers for our lovely hosts, then the very slow train to Prešov completed our collection of trains for the day. The lady opposite was amused at my practice efforts with google translate🤣

    Mel and Frank were waiting for us, with big smiles: it was lovely to see them looking so well 👍
    It turned out it had been 4 years since they left Leicester: the volleyball club had missed them!

    We hopped in Frank’s Volvo and went to their flat, up on the 7th floor.
    The small lift had a limit of 3 people or 250kg, so it was clear Frank & I could not both be aboard. He kindly set off up the stairs, arriving in need of oxygen some time after us 🥵

    They showed us our room: bright, with some great family pictures, including Frank officiating at the 2012 Olympic qualifiers, their daughter Stephanie & their son Juraj, who played for the Slovakia National volleyball team 💪
    We dropped our bags, then the weekend started with a cheeky 12% beer, a dangerous pear shot of some sort and a good catch up, with hefty use of google translate - what a great app that is 🤣🍻

    We watched a little ice hockey before freshening up and walking to the rather nice Pilsner Urquell pub nearby for some food and another drink, before heading back for sleep: a busy day ahead🍻👍
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  • The High Tatras

    13 maj 2023, Slovakien ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Next morning we were treated to a fine breakfast before checking we had enough warm clothes: we were heading two hours west to the High Tatras 🏔️

    A smooth drive later and we were at Štrbské Pleso - a small ski resort in winter with a very fine lake to walk around 💪

    Plenty of interesting information on our circuit, & quite a few people out enjoying the crisp fresh day.
    When groups are trying to take their own photo, I usually offer to take one of all of them. Strangely pleasing to discover the family I snapped by the lake were from Ukraine.

    The clouds, however, kept the peaks hidden from us….

    We went up past some snowy ground to take a look at the very scary looking ski jump: so high we could see the concrete from across the lake. It was used in the 1970 World Championships, but is no longer in use: not meeting current standards. They have left it as a “memorial” of those heady days. A smaller jump sat next to it.

    The Tatras Tower was tempting, especially since it had a slide down the middle, but after our long walk, we gave it a miss.

    Lunch was in the traditional Restauracia Koliba: the garlic, sheep cheese and ham soup was to die for, & the main courses were equally tasty: great decision 👍

    Frank drove us on to Stary Smokovek so we could step aboard the funicular train to reach Hrebienok, 1,285m high.

    The summits continued to be covered in thick cloud, but we did get nice views of the waterfall and across the valley to the Low Tatras…..& enjoy another cuppa in a lovely old restaurant 🫖☕️

    Finally, it was time to head back down and for Frank to stay awake driving home….the rest of us were decidedly dozy 😴

    Back at the flat, I took one for the team and jogged up the stairs 💪
    Some soup and rest before the Eurovision Song Contest later.

    When it came to it, there was no English commentary, so we watched in Czech, with Mel explaining some points: most notably that the Czech entry was sung in the Ukrainian language 💪
    We bantered with family and friends on WhatsApp and in our Older Crowd Facebook group. For the results, now past midnight, we retired to bed….Frank had wisely given up much earlier 🤣

    A great day 😎👍
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  • Going Underground…

    14 maj 2023, Slovakien ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Our hectic schedule with Frank and Mel showed no sign of letting up 🤣

    A lighter breakfast was followed by a shorter drive out to the Josef Opal Mine.

    Slovakia had the first Opal Mine in the world, and we were able to spend an hour underground on a low, very cold and damp walking tour.
    They no longer actively mine it: Australian does, but it was interesting to learn a bit about these workings. We could see tunnels going down many levels, and had an English audio guide to explain some of the history.
    The helmets did the job for Frank and me, when we hit the low roof on occasion🤣

    Stepping out into the warm sunshine was a pleasure, and we set off to seek lunch the other side of Prešov, at Šariš Park restaurant.
    It was a short drive from there to see the enormous Šariš brewery, on our way back.

    Frank took us up a narrow road to see the Calvary Complex, a small church high in a hillside above Prešov.
    The views over the city were stunning, & we were able to take a quick look inside at the incredibly ornate interior.

    Back down, old Prešov was looking gorgeous in the warm sunshine.
    We played the Sunday tourist, wandering about, enjoying an ice cream.
    The Co-Cathedral of Saint Nicholas was the place our friends were married as well as their daughter. The inside was very ornate, & we snuck upstairs for a close up of the larger electric organ.
    After this, we took the 195 steps up the Tower for more fabulous views over the city. The final stairs were fairly precarious, and the return taken very cautiously 👀

    We hunted down the marker that showed Prešov to lie on the 49th parallel. My OS Locate map suggested it might be a good few metres out, but let’s not quibble…

    A final beer was enjoyed in the square, before a cheeky food shop and an exhausted return to the flat for a rest!

    All in all, a fantastic weekend: many thanks 😎👍
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  • Moving on…& underground again!

    15 maj 2023, Slovakien ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    It was finally time to head back west, on to Bratislava. Frank and Mel kindly drove us through the rain to Kysak station, where we enjoyed one last cuppa along with the tune of the announcements….& a hoard of children off on a trip to the wilderness 🤪

    Our train was very comfortable, but the rain and low cloud continued: hopes of seeing the Tatras appeared low, but finally the weather lifted and sunshine appeared for the 5 hour journey. Music, ebook, snacks and a cuppa kept us going, & the carriage was very quiet.

    Almost failed to get off: they made up the delayed start and arrived on time 💪

    We walked 10 minutes towards town to find a temporary uninspiring door hiding the way to a beautiful spacious apartment in an old building, opposite the Presidential Palace 👍

    A quick wash-load and we set off for the short walk to St Michael’s gate, an iconic entrance to the old town.

    We continued to the main square, pausing there to take some pictures, including one for a Saudi man and his wife.

    Onwards to the unpronounceable old town square, Hviezdoslavovo námestie. Clearly the cultural quarter, with the National Theatre and Opera at one end.

    Past a chunky, massive, brutalist monument to Ludovit Štur, the leader of Slovak national revival.
    Interestingly enough, I read that on the same place there used to be a statue of Maria Theresa which was demolished by the anti-Habsburg people and this one was installed as a sign of rebellion on its place…..& that Štur died at 40 after accidentally shooting himself 😳

    Once more, we reached the ubiquitous Danube, the beautiful river that we had seen in Budapest, Ruse and Vienna. We would see it again later in the week, but here it was wide yet fast flowing in the late evening sunshine.
    We walked along and then crossed on the modern Most SNP - Bridge of the Slovak National Uprising. Also known as the UFO bridge, it was built between 1993-2012, and is the world's longest bridge to have one pylon and one cable-stayed plane 💪
    At the far end, there is the impressive UFO restaurant & viewing platform, but we were too tired to be bothered to take the rather over-priced lift for a view 🤣

    Back across on the sunny side, we headed up to the very cool Underground Tea Room for a light dinner and cuppa. One of several hundred such places that were built as bunkers during the Cold War, I was surprised to read that this little one could house up to 45 people for up to 75 hours 😳.
    Fortunately they were never needed, & we were also lucky to find the last seats in the cool little ‘rooms’. We found the Macha milkshake and Nepalese white tea certainly hit the spot, & the young lady serving was very good at her job 👍
    Amusing to witness the intense young man across from us trying to impress the young lady he was apparently trying to woo 😘

    Darkness has fallen during our time underground, so a final wander through atmospheric old streets home.
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  • Wet Wet Wet!

    16 maj 2023, Slovakien ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    It had to happen.
    50 days with barely any rain….& today that ended ☔️
    We had a slow start, but wrapped up against the cold rain & set off to visit the quirky Galéria Multium. A tiny gallery with a handful of small rooms with quite stunning optical illusions. Great to see it was not created by a physicist or artist, but by an IT bloke!
    On up to a very wet Bratislava Castle. An impressive slab, evidence dates back to hundreds of years BC, but from 1811 until 1953 it became a ruin. It was finally rebuilt and houses some exhibitions of the Slovak National Museum.

    With it being so wet, you’d think we dropped inside for a look.
    Well, the ticket office was like the Marie Celeste. We were forced to amble around the grounds, getting steadily more drenched.
    After some moist photos, we headed back down the hill to the old town.

    On our way down, a chance for Google Translate to shine: two people coming up jabbered at us in Slovak…..I said “sorry”, then held the phone up and got the young man to repeat it into that….they were asking if it was the route to the castle…..I spoke into it and it told them (in Slovak!) “yes it is, but it looked closed”. I am now a local tour guide, anywhere in the world 💪

    We briefly ducked into St. Martin's Cathedral, but there were roaming gangs of clergymen, so we headed back outside. On a nicer day, we might have walked the walls, but today we needed to get inside.

    After a walk through the old town, we discovered Funki Punki: great value for a delicious soup and pancakes….but maybe choosing the Elvis was a tiny mistake…who knew that peanut butter, blueberry jam and plum tomatoes might be a weird combo 🤪

    With postcards written, we headed to the Post Office for some stamps. What a fabulous building inside! Beautiful ceiling and ornate wooden teller windows.

    Back at the apartment, we could finally warm up and dry off. Some admin and highlighting our adventures in the map, then the last of Frank’s beer and a few episodes of Queen Charlotte to round off our evening 👍
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  • Rain & Regensberg, Lederhosen & Lace

    17 maj 2023, Tyskland ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    The rain looked to have abated as we packed up in our lovely Bratislava Airbnb, but as we headed downstairs, we found it starting up again.
    A quick check on Bolt/Uber suggested a car was only 4 mins away, so we gave in and booked it.
    Naturally, at that point, all nearby drivers decide to shun our advances and we found one 6km away, crawling towards us. Sod that: we cancelled and set off in the drizzle ☔️

    Arrived at the station rather bedraggled, but our train was on time, so we loitered, dripping, in the main hall until the platform popped up on the board.

    We had a short yet smooth change in Vienna, & found our booked seats right at the front of the train…but naturally the drivers cabin is opaque, so views were no better than normal 🤷‍♂️
    We dozed, read and snacked, & I watched a Jason Stathern film titled “Bank Job”, which went as predictably as you would expect.

    Luckily, the clouds disappeared, and we arrived in Regensburg in faint sunshine.

    Here we had a super clean Holiday Inn Express, with the bonus of free breakfast: always helps with the budget 🤣

    After discovering BBC World was the only English TV choice, wittering endlessly on about Harry and Meghan’s fake near miss “Diana-drive” through NYC, we set out to explore.

    Regensburg is a surprising delight!

    Christine had found it just looking for somewhere en route to Nuremberg, but what a fabulous find 😎
    Our fourth spot of the Danube, after Budapest, Ruse and Vienna….very fast moving around the bridge, with a couple of paddlers enjoying it.

    Inhabited since the Stone Age, it became a northern settlement for Romans. For over 700 years it was the capital of Bavaria.
    The stone bridge in town we were to cross later dates back 900 years.
    We found notes about the Diet of Regensburg: not a health or even starving thing, but from 1663 to 1806, the city was the permanent seat of the Imperial Diet of the Holy Roman Empire.

    In short; the City was Important.
    And wealthy: a German noble family with the Prince of Thurn and Taxis resided there (still does!), and made money from postal services from the 1500s, expanding to breweries and building many castles too.

    Because of that, the place is slightly unique: the impressive houses were built of brick and stone, and therefore never had major fires, like so many of their era. WWII also failed to touch the older buildings.
    As a result, the “old town” is incredibly grand, and very original. It feels exceedingly “well to do”, and is a delight to wander through.

    On our way from the hotel, we soon noticed a young man in leather shorts…..felt a little odd, but this is Baveria.
    After a short time, we realised we were the odd looking ones: many men of all generations wore them, and one or two females too. Several classy looking stores sold them, along with very fancy “Alice in Wonderland” dresses with lacy aprons.
    Over the evening, we found that many locals dressed up that way, which was really nice to see.

    We crossed the Stone Bridge and sought sustenance, finding the lively Musikkneipe Klappe - literally “music bar shut up”.
    The staff were very friendly, the beer rather nice, and we enjoyed the house special curry wurst and a plate of house spetzl: delicious!

    The walk back took us past the Goliath House, a huge building dating from around 1260, with a vast 1573 painting.
    We then went past St Peter’s Cathedral, where robed clergyman were clearly heading for an event.

    Regensburg: quite a revelation, & we looked forward to seeing more of it 👍
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  • On The Danube

    18 maj 2023, Tyskland ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Today dawned with sunshine and a promising full breakfast.
    We enjoyed a stroll into town and sought out more sights.

    Because of the city´s unique status as "the only authentically preserved large medieval city in Germany", the Old Town Regensburg (with Stadtamhof) was announced as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2006.

    Just before the Stone Bridge is an interesting free ‘museum’ explaining a lot about the history of the town.
    Outside, we declined the option to join a huge queue for the Wurst Kuche: the oldest sausage stand/ restaurant in the whole WORLD, but once you’ve had one sausage..,,

    Instead, we decided that after seeing the Danube in Budapest, Ruse and Vienna, & passing over it on trains on countless occasions, it was high time we went on a boat for a cheeky trip.
    On the way, a nice ice cream from Aamu, & a short browse in the Bavarian Museum.

    On board our HMS Titanic (MS Strudelfahrt or similar 👀), we cruised around the island….well, up to the point where we met the lock, turned round, & went back 🤷‍♂️
    A pleasant way to spend an hour.

    From there we went hunting the Golden Church - Kollegiatstift unserer Lieben Frau zur alten Kapelle. A relatively plain exterior opens up to reveal incredibly ornate gold leaf on all interior fittings.
    It is said that Regensburg has a church for every day of the year. The Gold one and The Cathedral are the most impressive to see!

    Beer was sought in the beautiful courtyard of the classic Bischofshof am Dom. Originally the home of, yes, the Bishop, it now serves patrons food and ale. Friendly staff, nice beers, and great entertainment when a drunk older German fella next to us suddenly fell backwards on his chair….yet kept his ¾ full tankard of ale from spilling a drop: Bravo Sir🍻

    Checked out Europe’s only Master Hat Maker round the corner: sadly, the Johnny Depp hat they had previously on show was gone, but a fine display nonetheless…. Thankfully it was closed on this Ascension Day, otherwise I might have been tempted: a snip at €280 😱

    The Blue Moon Boys were setting up in a Theatre courtyard, along with the stylish “Holiday” motor 💪

    By now, after a exploring a few more alleyways, we felt we had done the place. We headed back via a grand brewing ale house, Brauhaus am Schloss. Fairly quiet when we arrived, and beautifully appointed inside, but by the time our food came out, it felt like two coaches of elderly Germans had arrived to sample the beers: nice!

    Finally, the walk home for an early night: busy day tomorrow 👍
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  • Munchen Excursion

    19 maj 2023, Tyskland ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Our adventures felt like they were drawing gently to a close.
    We headed down for a very early Holiday Inn breakfast…& were surprised to see an old couple who had come in with the coach party at the beer hall the night before. Enjoyed a bit of jolly banter (with no shared words…) before heading out for the station.

    We were heading for a longer stop in Nuremberg….but I had spotted our travels were just shy of 10,000km, so we decided to take a little diversion south to Munich for a few hours (& a few kms) 🤣

    We dumped the bags in a €6 locker, and headed into town passed Karlsplatz.

    A busy place, we were in time to see the 11am Rathaus-Glockenspiel perform its little animation, with hundreds of others in the square.

    Munich was chock full of churches, but St Peter’s lays claim to being the oldest, dating from before the first documented evidence of the city’s existence in 1158. It has the distinctive skeletal Saint Munditia in the second alcove on the left: the patron saint of spinsters, clutching a container of dried blood. What a beauty!

    We headed to the Munich Hofbräuhaus, perhaps the worlds most famous beer hall. Christine had some miniature tankards from her father with the HB crown logo on….still not sure where they came from: to her knowledge, he never visited the city.
    Sadly, or perhaps luckily for our livers, it was rammed full, so we continued our walk.

    An American tour guide seemed unwilling to relinquish his speakers spot next to the polished brass breast of a lady’s statue, so we pressed onward for a cuppa & at the pleasant Schmalznudel - Cafe Frischhut.

    A final check in at the vaulted and restored Gothic church, Frauenkirche: two mighty towers at the front, and the legendary Devil’s footprint inside….strangely, my shoe matched perfectly 👀

    Back out to the main station, under massive construction and not terribly grand today, we headed back up to our next destination: Nuremberg.

    An old work friend, Tony, had got in touch just before we left, back in March. He and his wife Laura were in Germany later in May.
    He mentioned some detail, but the only part I heard was that they were planning a day’s hiking in Bavaria with a guide, involving stops at 5 breweries.
    Would we care to join them?

    Is the Pope a Catholic?

    It gave us the impetus to plan the tail end of our trip early, to dovetail in with them…& we added an extra night to allow for a decent hangover!

    Here we were staying close to the station in the pleasant Hotel Garni Probst.

    After a final little laundry, we headed out to meet up with them. Nuremberg seemed a very pleasant city, and we met in the main square. After greetings and introductions, we went down some incredibly steep steps to Der Nassauer Keller zu Nürnberg, where beers, food and travellers tales were shared, before heading home to prepare for The Big Day!
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