Torres Del Paine

Day 466.

Sliding open the van door to blue skies, absolute silence and these views after a cosy first night's sleep was exactly how I want to start every morning. Enjoyed breakfast and coffee in bed (courtesy of me) before hitting the road.

Today it was the big one - Torres Del Paine. The most famous patagonia national park, epic mountain range and our next destination! Quickly realised that yesterday's driving views were nothing in contrast - in fact they were just the start. Driving towards TDP was incredible, admittedly I've gotten slightly carried away with roadside photo stops, but the views seem to get better with every turn.

Speed is slow and therefore our pre researched Google map driving times are right out of the window already. On gravel roads 40kmph is our max - but better than a flat tyre early on! Stopped for fuel at the last gas station for a while, after entering the park the closest one would be just 200km away!

Great lunch spot at viewpoint on route to TDP, admittedly it wasn't the spot we were aiming for and maybe the steep gravel cliff should have been a good indicator of that but nonetheless we had it all to ourselves and I'm sure our map reading will improve with time..

Once in the huge park we wasted no time in heading to glacier grey. Quick to be blown away by the huge icebergs floating in the lake, long broken away from the tip of the melting glacier. Swam in (it was too tempting not too) in an attempt to naughtily break off some ice of our own, retrieved a pathetically small amount and left with some very cold legs.

Definitely lost one of our nine lives here after handbrake incident, only can laugh for now and be more careful in future. The camper clearly likes us and is ploughing on like a trooper. Even limbster took it for a spin so I could clamber out of the window for some drive by shots. Admittedly it was a little scary - limbster driving that is not me hanging out of the window! Can't wipe the smiles off our faces, driving around the park with the freedom of the camper is our perfect combination.

Park is full of viewpoints at every turn, couldn't resist stopping at each turquoise lake we passed, eventually settling on one for our first dinner in the park. Whipped up a Chorizo and chickpea feast, would need thr energy for the next day - our first 20km trek to the Peak of TDP, it was going to be a challenge for sure so we took it easy on the vino tinto.

Up at dawn and mesmerised by the colour of the sun on the peaks of torres del paine. Headed up early to beat the arrival of any tours (a big bonus of the van). Limbster decided she didn't need her new wind jacket, or in fact her trekking pole which she wasted no time in getting rid of. A poorly fastened pole, a bridge and a fast flowing river is a terrible combination - and all in the first 5 minutes as well!

It was a big trek and tested our fitness but we reached the top in 4 hours, traversing forests, rivers and a steep rocky ascent. Cheese and peanut sarnies to celebrate along with an epic photo or two of the torres. It's hard to beleive we'd been admiring these so far away in the distance and now we were up right inside. We quickly collapsed into the camper once we reached the bottom, and just about mustled up the energy to whip up a much needed hot chocolate before resting those sore feet.

We headed off to find a new spot for night two in the park. Experienced a small snippet of that patagonian wind this evening too as were left quickly chasing after tea towels and our printed travel plans. Thank god the winds aren't their usual level or I fear we'd have no chance.

Woke early to blue skies, not a cloud in sight and headed out on a morning stroll right from camp. First one's on the trail and the best views we've had yet. The glacier rivers here are crystal clear and the rainbow filled waterfalls nothing short of incredible. Saw our first ice avalanche and it was hard to tear limbster away from the mirador at the end, but our final stop in the park was calling.

Designed our own DIY gopro extending pole, a genious patagonia special with some string and a bit of old wood, perfect for shooting us in the van whilst moving albeit risky. Passed huge herds of guanacos on route to laguna Azul, can't get enough of these friendly camera loving animals.

This mornings waterfall was quickly out shone when we stopped at a huge collection of cascades a few hours later, getting splashed from 50 foot up was exactly what we needed in the roaring sun. Too good not to stop here for lunch and a cheeky Flor de Cana...

Final night stop was just what we needed, watching sunset over the mountains in our pj's (and Xmas socks) was a perfect way to round off three days here. That plus there were hot showers - an absulte luxury and limbster was in her element. Slight misunderstanding in spanish meant we didn't get to cook in the local kitchen but the boot of the van would do us just fine.

Concerned by tomorrow's inspection at the Argentinian border we tried to finish off all perishables, including the box of red wine and the peanut butter. Limbsters taken to the Chilean wine like a fish and wasted no time finishing off the first box, leaving me to tackle the peanut butter and the rum - and happily so.

Tomorrow we cross into Argentina - a cool 300km drive. Here's hoping its not all gravel!En savoir plus