La Vida Colorida

November 2018 - Maret 2020
  • Craig and Limbster
From fire spewing volcanoes, festivals & tacos in Central America to the wilderness, wine and adventure of Patagonia.
504 days, 12,096 hours & 725,760 minutes together.
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  • Craig and Limbster

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  • Sevilla Nevada II (Wild Camping N5)

    1 Juni 2019, Spanyol ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Day 212.

    Now well into our routine limbster was feeling confident to break the mould. Poached eggs with just a spork - skills. 

    With no sea water in sight and the foot on the mend we decided to trek into the mountains to both work off all that Tapas and find a spring shower. Finally the freshwater dream we had been after, and oh where we going to bathe in it ice cold or not.

    This wasn’t quite enough for limbster however after leaving behind her shampoo, so an additional roadside bikini shower was still required, much to the amusement of the locals. What a trooper.

    Best afternoon yet and by far the best 17 euro we’ve ever spent, constantly flowing vino blanco, cerveca and never ending Tapas, we might not leave here, ever.

    After a little heat in town, and talk of a few too many horses we moved to a slightly higher camping spot tonight, putting the tent up at dusk to avoid attracting too much attention. 

    Hive in the tent is becoming rather heated, after an earlier whitewash Limbster has taken to the game, think it’s going to become rather competitive
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  • Cabo de Gata

    3 Juni 2019, Spanyol ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Day 213 & 214.

    Limbster doing exercise is quite a sight at the best of times, but on the mountainside, with her roll mat, wearing yesterdays dress & my running top whilst knocking out her sit up routine is quite something to behold.

    After the standard Nescafe 3in1 to get us going it was time to get through the 200km drive to Cabo De Gata, a national park on the coast. With views in literally every direction it was breakfast granola on the roadside this morning.

    Beginning to get concerned with the maths behind our poorly calculated route today. The 120km per day maximum issued by the rental car co doesn’t line up well for our planned trip. To be continued..

    After yesterdays spending splurge, in relative terms anyway, it was jamon & queso on the beach today to keep costs down. Who knew Spanish beaches had water like this, up there with the Philippines just a tad colder.

    Off to stay with Miguel tonight, a local couch surfing host. 5 Nights camping on a rock hard surface we think we’ve earned a bed for one night, or two...

    Refreshing experiencing couch surfing outside of India where everyone wants to be your best mate / pen pal for life, not sure Miguel knew we were even there, top guy.

    Hit a rough patch with Michelle Thomas lessons today, not cause for concern just yet but need to knuckle down asap.
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  • Xorret De Gati

    5 Juni 2019, Spanyol ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    Day 215 & 216.

    Refreshed and rested it was time to get back out into the sticks, for a few days in the mountains we headed to Xorret De Gati national park.

    In no time we were back in the wilderness, picking out a great mountain view spot for camp. Not a soul in sight. Tonight was a highlight for both of us out of our camping spots to date. Sunset, views, games, laughs and huge marshmallowey smores over the fire was a hard one to beat.

    Slightly more alert tonight as its the only real time we have truly been in the middle of nowhere and away from the car. That being said the sound of footsteps outside the tent at 3.30am didn't bode well for a comfortable nights sleep. Assuring Limbster it could only be the wind, a large footed deer or combination of both I was able to coerce her back to sleep fairly quickly.

    Myself on the other hand, well aware as to the size of a deers foot had a rather uncomfortable nights sleep there on out, knife in one hand, rubber hammer in the other...

    In the morning we put the nights sleep well behind us, heading out for a nice sweaty walk up the nearby cliff face, nearly turned into a climb until limbster spotted the rope, maybe next time Craigo.

    Not fancying a repeat of last night, (for some reason being penned in a nylon tent has an inherent sense of vunerabilty about it!) we packed up and headed north. Our decision only reinforced by the creepy guy lingering around the nearby deserted car park day and night, to the beach it is!
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  • Valencia

    6 Juni 2019, Spanyol ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Day 217 - 222

    It was time to say goodbye to camping, (at least for one of us) and hello to the luxury of an apartment in central valencia. I'd like to think limbster arranging said apartment was in some way a thank you for the 950km drive, or to make up for the lonely 3 nights that are sure to follow, but deep down I think it's so she can get a shower and a good night's sleep, all ready for the upcoming hen do of course.

    Nonetheless it was luxury, beers on the balcony taking in the vibes of town. Obligatory walking tour complete, this time with a twist - central market, H&M check, cathedral check, another H&M and so it went..

    After an emotional departure, 3 nights apart being the longest time away from each other in a full 216 days, I made my way out of town, strictly prohibited to 're enter to prevent risk of clashing with the hen do.

    I set up camp at what can only be described as the spanish SAGA campervan park, squeezing my tent among the homes on wheels I quickly settled establishing myself as the lone camper of the site, glancing nods and polite hellos being as far as the conversation stretched.

    Befriended, surprisingly by a teenage German couple on night 2. With limited English it was an interesting if strained conversation over a bottle of Spain's finest but the company it must be said was refreshing, Ellie who?

    Come the final day it was an exciting reunion over cafe and tostada back in central valencia. We would be sad to leave, but it won't be the last time valencia.

    Ciao.
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  • Granada Week 1 - La casa!

    12 Juni 2019, Spanyol ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Week 1 - La casa, teething issues and a few too many Tapas!

    After navigating the torturously narrow streets of the Albaicin in the trusty rental we were able to locate our future landlord & amigo Pablo.

    Debating and subsequently agreeing on a flat contract in a language you don't yet speak certainly isn't advised but we gave it our best shot, Pablo at times certainly testing Limbsters patience, myself as ever, taking up the role of the moderator (with Google translate in one hand) did my best to assist.

    It turned out to all be worthwhile and a great find, the house is incredible, has the best views of the city, countless terraces to escape & some great housemates from all over Europe, just thank god they also speak English.

    The Albaicin has already lived up to expectations, traditional cobbled lanes, buzzing plazas, colour everywhere & zero cars allowed in - the dream. The most traffic in fact is the thrice daily walking tour that takes in the city's sights - of which our new house actually features!

    Tapas here is amazing if not a tad overwhelming, not for your average person that is, just Ellie, so far most of her energy has been exerted on locating her 'must visit' tapas bars for the summer. I think we're nearing 100 in the new spreadsheet which leaves no room for error. If she hasn't reviewed it prior, then we're not eating there, full stop. Can't slate it too much mind, few absolute gems to date.

    Having to adjust our routine again here, days are extremely long, everything closes between 2 and 6, and we're often left exhausted by 4pm from the days activities, only to realise there's still a full 6 hours of scorching sunlight left. It's starting at least to become clear why the Spanish siesta, and it's certainly a tradition we are willing to embrace, early mornings and late nights from now on.

    The teething issues noted all stem from the setting up of our only planned income stream - online English tutoring . "It will be a breeze" "all my friends do it" "we'll virtually be rolling in cash craig" "the Chromebook is totally sufficient" are just a few of limbsters ever optimistic quotes I should have known to treat with some scepticism, I can only blame myself. Many hours, an adapter, colouring books, a 20m cable, a very late night and one enourmous poster later and we appear to have made progress. Update to follow next week as to whether were "rolling in it" just yet.

    Went to our first language exchange this week, still niavely enthusiastic we have got this Spanish lark down. However it didn't take long to quickly be put in our place when we found ourselves nodding along with two Spanish speakers, barely grasping a word, only to find when we did get that word it was about 3 sentences too late to join in. Total mind blank session and never have I had such a feeling of incompetence before, it can only get better though right..?

    It has certainly been an eventful week & watching the sun come down on the Alhambra from the roof terrace was the perfect way to top it off, I think we're going to like it here.

    Some small goals for next week.

    - Visit all local markets to decide best for weekly shop
    - Find somewhere to swim - it's 36° next week and me occasionly splashing myself with water won't cut it for long.
    - Meet with at least 3 locals for language exchange, god help us.
    - Join a gym asap, or theres a danger I'll be 20 stone in 3 months time.
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  • Adios Granada, Hasta La proxima vez

    4 September 2019, Spanyol ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Day 307.

    Hola Todas, Que Tal, Bien Bien, Y tu (one insence por favor)

    Describing our 3 months in Granada whilst giving it the full credit it deserves would truly be a mammoth task and likely require a second book all to itself which quite frankly we just can't afford now we’re back on that backpacker budget.

    A summary of the highlights therefore will have to do, for now at least. One thing that cannot be omitted is Tapas, Tapas hunting was our number one activity, by a long way in fact. Learning Spanish, making friends, or just about anything else was rapidly pushed aside to make way for Tapas time. In order to recall only the greats I’ve challenged Ellie to come up with her ’Tapas last meal’, if only 5 Tapas from Granada could be your last meal before you die, what would it be… and this was her answer:

    Tapas

    Casa Julio - Cod Fish

    Chanterella - Pork

    Avilla - Roasted Ham

    La Esquinta - Mussels

    Central Mercado - Jamon & Queso

    One day we hope to return and revisit all of these on this list, just maybe not in July next time.

    When not eating, sipping on cerveza or vino  or just enjoying a siesta we would try our best to learn Spanish, as we had promised ourself many times over that this was something we would achieve! This formed a key part of our daily routine, starting with light speed Spanish videos over breakfast in bed each and every morning. As a result we will always recall Spanish with Cynthia & Gordon with very happy memories! It was also the few hours of the day that it was cool, and therefore one of the only times we could study without sweating through our clothes, which was nice.

    Meeting the locals to practise Spanish was also memorable, I use memorable rather than useful because honestly it wasn’t really. Spending 20 minutes jumbling up your Spanish without being corrected followed by typically 3 times as long teaching English was never going to be that beneficial, but hey we did meet some great people, and some odd ones (cough, cough) Moses…

    When not out on the cobbled streets of Granada babbling spanglish and enjoying coffee with the locals we would most likely be on the terrace. We will never forget the evenings (and nights) spent on that terrace, especially during the magical time of golden hour. Learning to paint the mightly Alhambra, countless games of crib, sharing smores with friends and even learning Salsa. The views of Granada and times spent here together will not be forgotten in any hurry!

    Last but certainly not least was doing what we enjoy most, hosting. Times here with friends and family were amazing, albeit exhausting, as playing tour guide typically is. It also tended to be when our eating and drinking habits increased most drastically, whether it was the litres of beers sunk at Nikki & James’s rooftop pool or the 2kg Tortilla we worked our way through with Diane and Paul..

    Spending our final night watching the sun come down over the albazin from the Church was the perfect way to end a great three months here. We still haven’t learnt Spanish, certainly didn’t lose any weight & might now be verging on semi alcoholics but I think we can most definitely say that we haven’t regretted a second.

    Adios Granada.

    Spanish Language Top Tips:

    If you’re ever stuck for a response, por ejemplo in a shop try the phrase ‘practicar’ it’s sure to get you by, certainly did for Ellie.

    Not sure on the price of a teapot - ‘Que es eso’ is always worth a short, get it over the net Craig, just get it over (special shout out to Michelle, RIP).
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  • Antigua

    12 September 2019, Guatemala ⋅ 🌧 22 °C

    Day 315

    Door to door, that being Holbury to the door of the hostel in Antigua via Colombia was a coooool 32 hours travelling. The journey was smooth right up until touching down in Guatemala city where it seemed (from the view of the bus window at least) that tragedy had struck in every direction. In one 45 minute bus ride we saw 1 dead body in the street, one overturned car plus a 3 car pile up - all seperate incidents mind, promising start..

    On a brighter note its worth mentioning that Ellie avoided any incidents on route, arriving uninjured in Guatemala, a massive triumph vs her previous record sheet.

    Putting aside the the fatal traffic collisions the city was abuzz, children running through the streets flame torches in hand, cars and parks lined with flags and music coming from speakers tied to the back of each and every ford pick up truck in town. It turns out we had arrived just in time for the biggest festival of the year, a 3 day independence celebration! This meant lots of horns, parades, partying and local festival food - we couldn't have planned it better if we tried. Something tells us we're going to like it here.

    If I had free reign from Ellie to design my own town, Antigua would be darn close to it. A multi coloured colonial town, plastered with flags, surronded by picturesque (but very much active volcanoes) all serviced by brightly painted chicken buses. This would be enough in itself let alone the seemingly unlimted supply of fresh ceviche, tacos, limes and avacados.

    Parades were the real highlight here and the Guatemalans went all out, we'd never seen anything like it, kicking off with the big drums at 6.30am for some reason was not frowned upon by locals which meant bright and early starts for us.

    Not only early starts in fact, no booze and 2 days of 20km walks - early signs that we might be able to kick those bad habits we picked up in Espana after all.

    Tomorrow we ride our first chicken buses (aka rollercoasters of doom) across country, travelling the 5 hours to Xela. Apparently travellers are torn with these due to the number of robberies & kidnappings on board as well as the inherent danger of racing giant buses over volcanoes and so typically opt for private shuttles. But at a tenth of the price we certainly know how we'll be getting there, thats 7 extra tacos saved!

    Ellie also looks pretty tough in her new decathlon fleece so I think we'll be safe.

    Chicken Bus Trivia...

    https://greenglobaltravel.com/chicken-bus-guate…

    P.s its worth noting that Guatemalans are the nicest people we've met so far!
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  • Xela Week 1

    20 September 2019, Guatemala ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    Day 323.

    Although there had been some initial doubt we made it to Xela via Chicken bus alive and in one piece! We had just one rule, try to keep our bags on the bus, it became quickly apparent as we watched our very unwaterproof luggage launched onto the roof that we in fact did not make the rules here, good start. The ride itself was great fun, as long as you weren’t Ellie who was holding onto the bars in front of her for dear life as we flew around the mountainous countryside, overtaking literally everything in our way. But if the lady juggling one hand full of fried chicken and another with change can do so whilst walking up and down the bus then we can’t complain...

    It’s lucky we slimmed our bags down as upon arriving in Xela our bus handily decided to terminate early due to the independence celebrations, which left us with a tasty 5km walk in the midday heat, it was one way to see the city at least. We didn’t hold back in diving into our first street market, tucking into some Pusperias and sipping on tequila (of course).

    Xela is a million miles away from Antigua. This is a working city and one with a lot of charm. It didn’t take long to sign ourselves up with the Miguel Cervantes school of Spanish, now the real work would begin with 4 hours of private lessons per day...! We were quickly introduced to Connie and Danny, the Guatemalan family we would be living with across town for the next month, in their super cosy house. Granted there was a slight language barrier at first, me incorrectly assuming we would be hosted by a 3 year old dog just one of many misunderstandings to come I fear..

    It's now 3 meals a day in Spanish with our family and although tough we are certainly improving (with Danny at least). Home comforts are more than we expected here and Connie makes incredible fresh food, we’re continually amazed by the number of uses found for frijoles, avocados and most importantly tortillas, 7 days and counting - Top it, fry it, stuff it, chop it, blend it, wrap it.
    Being Rainy season we’ve also seen our share of storms this week, the particular highlight being dinner by candlelight when the storm knocked out power for half the town, every cloud. (It's a veggie meal as long as there’s just a little chicken in it right.. ) 

    Determined not to let Spanish take over our lives, and out of concern that we still won’t have anything to show for it in one months time we have dived into local activities available. The highlight this week being Salsa with Sassy rosa. Teaming up and swirling limbster around on the dance floor it turns out is incredibly fun, and I don’t think we’re all that bad either even if a little sweaty (me), the fact locals can watch in from the street just adds to the fun.

    I’ll try to avoid touching on how the Spanish lessons have gone for limbster, I think breakdown, sob story and a replacement teacher says it all. Aim for next week is for the update to be in Spanish, so some serious progress is required.

    Adios.
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  • Xela - Week 2

    28 September 2019, Guatemala ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    Day 331.

    Hola Amigos,

    Después de mucha consideración, he decidido continuar con esta publicación en inglés, en parte debido al tiempo que me llevaría completar en español. Asi que, aqui vamos…

    It was time to enjoy our first weekend in Xela after a fairly gruelling WK1 of Spanish lessons. Although making sure we completed all the required homework we managed to dodge the rain and get out an explore. Checking out the famously colourful cemetery and munching on some incredible deep fried Platano being just a few of the highlights. Note to Ellie, always try the local snacks, especially when there’s a queue of locals too.

    Spanish school has significantly improved for limbster with Unknown teacher 2.0. Breakdowns stand at nil this week and can safely say Spanish is improving. Another week of school means another week of Salsa lessons. Quickly questioned why it took us a whole week to return once we got moving on the Dance floor, although rusty at first it’s safe to say inspired by Rosa we will now be regulars!

    Another week in Guatemala obviously meant another festival.. This week it was a religious one but regardless the parades and fireworks were out in full force for 4 full days of events. When I say fireworks I don’t mean the colourful kind that go off at night, these resemble more a small bomb going off just a few feet behind you at all hours of the day, wherever you are, even mid Spanish lesson - the amount of times I’ve seen Miriam leap out of that chair. Deciding to check of the big days festivities ourselves we set out on a mini teacher student excursion, observing full force the firework bon fires (pile them up and watch them fly) and the brightly coloured parades! It was worth the cough I had the remainder of the day from the sheer amount of smoke travelling through my lungs.

    Inspired by that 3 man Platano frying trio Ellie stepped up to learn the skills herself with Connie midweek with the intention of feeding 15 come Fridays pot luck lunch. The lesson went well, less can be said for the conversation.. in one ear out the other is the best way to describe it I think.

    Attended our first quiz night in Espanol this week with new friends, granted it was repeated in English but every little bit helps. Regardless of the English we placed fairly poorly, avoiding all chances to win free booze. If we thought the performance during quiz night was bad it soon got worse during our first attempt at Basta (Ride the bus Guat style) with our Guatemalan family, playing a game which wholly depends on your knowledge of Spanish vocabulary is a challenge to say the least, all those animals we know beginning with X and all…

    Ended the week with a chicken bus ride out of town to check out Sarjaca, a small market town with (rumoured) to have Central Americas oldest church, not only that but a fresh load of home produced fruit wine out of the local lawyers office - it goes without saying we obliged, as did the teachers come Friday lunch..
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  • Xela - Week 3

    6 Oktober 2019, Guatemala ⋅ 🌧 20 °C

    Day 339.

    And just like that the third week of Spanish school has flown by. And although we’re not skipping between places at the moment the sights continue to deliver on a daily basis. Whether its the locals getting their cowboy boots polished on our way to school or the never ending festivals, yes there’s another 3 days celebration this week - it really doesn’t end, not quite sure when anybody works here..

    In an attempt to break our English habits Spanish immersion began on Monday, which meant on top of our 5 hours of lessons and 3 meals a day in Spanish we have decided to only now speak to one another in Spanish too. This went fantastically well on Monday might I add whether it was jibberish or not we will never know, and it’s only down to our sheer laziness that this well and truly did not last the full week. There’s always next week right…

    This week Ellie faced her first real hurdle come dinner time, Tomale’s aren’t her favourite at the best of times, but I have to admit this blended plate of rice corn well and truly tasted, and looked pretty god dam awful. Luckily the tienda at the end of the road is always stocked full when you need a late night Wotsit run!

    Our joint knowledge of Latin America is clearly significantly improving given that our weekly quiz team only went and came joint first, next week the cash (and tequila will be ours I’m sure). As always Friday flew around and the Pot luck lunch certainly delivered - the food was incredible, with us whipping up some pretty darn good Quesidillas based on the compliments we received from the locals! 

    This week everyone most definitely had that Friday feeling after a gruelling week of school. Several rounds of Perudo, a lot of time on the jukebox and three or four too many bottles of Quetzalteca and before you know it it’s 1am and you’re up showing of your salsa moves (or not) with the locals. Really dived into the local delicacies tonight too (not that I can recall it) but Ellie said the hot dogs were great.

    We took the plunge and opted for private salsa lessons this week, still slightly confused by the pay disparity given we’re paying our salsa teacher 5x the rate of our Spanish language teachers, given Rosa (the salsa queen) is never less than half intoxicated during the lesson this seems slightly unbalanced, but hey.

    Determined not to let Saturday sink away with a headache from the night before we were up and straight into a trek to one of the best view points in Xela, turns out when you haven't done exercise in God knows how many months and definitely over eaten, even this trek required a break or two on route! Something we will remedy once back in the road!

    Getting a taste for the walking again saturdaywe set out the challenge our fitness come Sunday with a volcano trek to check out Santiguito, the local active volcano, given it erupts 3-5 times a day we were in with a good shot of seeing some action. We jumped in an Uber first thing and headed to the hills, after a fairly gruelling 2 hour climb, one or two slips in some less than pleasant horse leftovers we arrived at the Mirarador on the other side of the Santa Maria Volcano, sadly we weren’t the only ones and those pesky clouds appeared right on top of us like magic. There would be no views for us today given we couldn’t see further than 30 feet, let alone the Volcano 3km in the distance..

    Regardless the trek was worth it and great practise for next week, 30000 steps later and it was a well deserved relaxing Sunday night.
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