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Balls go Baltic
  • Andrea Ball

Balls go Baltic

Time to explore new waters in our trimaran Whisper as we head off this summer. Read more
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  • Andrea BallBalls go BalticTraveler
    11

    Kiel (day trip by ferry)

    June 30, 2024 in Germany ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    As forecast we woke to the sound of rain on the hatch. The cockpit tent gave us some extra dry space. Today we took the hour long ferry ride from Laboe to Kiel. It's a great service and the ferry is fast, clean and on time going via 4 ferry stops along the Forde.
    Kiel is a large shipping &boating destination with not a dissimilar feel to Plymouth. As it was Sunday ALL the shops were closed. (oh, those were the days). We enjoyed a Bratwurst hot dog from one of the many street food stands before heading to the Schifffahrts museum in the lovely old Fischhalle building. We headed back late afternoon on the ferry to Laboe to a much calmer wind and later a beautiful sunset and a mackerel sky. We could just make out the firework display marking the end of Kiel Week.    Read more

  • Andrea BallBalls go BalticTraveler
    Our approach into Marstal, Denmark4

    Aero

    July 1, 2024 in Denmark ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    After a quick stop to fuel up all available tanks we set off down wind - next stop Denmark! Main sail was hoisted but with light winds to start and signs of rain surrounding we weren't expecting a fast crossing on our first day on the Baltic Sea. However, the winds soon picked up & with the Code 0 out, we were soon reaching 8- 12 knots with the sun shining. Lovely. 🌞
    As we passed into Danish waters I hoisted the courtesy flag🇩🇰.
    We arrived on Aero Island just 30miles off the German coast to the warmest of welcomes from all the Danes at Marstal as we moored up at about 4.15pm.
    An early evening explore and a lovely meal to celebrate reaching Denmark. We stopped at the quayside for a coffee and admired the classic tall ships that had arrived throughout the evening . They have been an everyday feature for us wherever we go, so we're starting to take them for granted. They really do look so impressive both under sail and feel you've stepped back in time in the harbours.

    Marstal is steeped in maritime history. The town has an international reputation for shipbuilding & is still the nerve of the town with its dockyards, its shipping companies and its maritime school of wooden ship building.

    The quaint streets with cute half timbered colourful houses. Low level with steep roofs that flair out at the base give them a distinctive look.
    Now back in to island life there's a laid back feel and everyone is so friendly. We both immediately relaxed to the point we didn't do much other than soak up the atmosphere but we felt we had to visit the maritime museum which is described as extraordinary. Well it didn't disappoint and was amazing. Not only does it house several hundred models it has some wonderful marine paintings by the local famous artist Jens Erik Carl Rasmussen plus so many ships artefacts and memorabilia collected from travelling sailors across the Seven Seas. The fully operational engine collection and workshops with the ship building skills being carried out was fascinating.

    So, with 7300km of coastline in Denmark with all the islands and wonderful areas to visit - time to get the map out. I think a Danish spandauer or two might muster some energy and snap us out of the lazy vibe.    Read more

  • Andrea BallBalls go BalticTraveler
    Svendborgsun bridge (Svendborg sound)
    Brunch for 2Anne Hvides Gaard (c. 1560) oldest residential building - now Svendborg museumGlad to be of use!Whilst there - a spot of cleaning (before)Milton cleaned - (after)

    Svendborg

    Jul 3–5, 2024 in Denmark ⋅ 🌩️ 17 °C

    We felt the need to make a move to a good sheltered spot from the strong westerly winds & heavy rain due to hit us over the next few days, so set sail heading for Fyn the third largest Danish island.
    The strong winds forecast did not materialise at first & we managed a reasonable sail & avoided the showers arriving at the large harbour at Svendborg around 4.30pm. The lack of picturesque setting (next to some new building works) was nearly compensated by the extremely friendly staff and the very slick facilities which we needed as we had some essential boat work to do.
    The blondness (& I mean only hair colour) is notably dominant now, in fact it is hard to spot a brunette. We noticeably stand out as the English 'boat people' ( with our grey & gingery brown 😏). and to the Danish at least , are more obviously foreign? In fact we've only met one other English boat since the Netherlands and only one other Trimaran & the Danes particularly are quite intrigued by Whisper.
    We've felt very much abroad - in a positive way. The Danes have been so very helpful and always so smiley & chatty, speaking incredibly good English, but I do miss the German weather!
    We made the best of the day and in between showers, we explored the town on foot.

    Thanks to its seafarers, in the late Middle Ages Svendborg became one of the most important trading centres in Scandinavia. Nowadays....Svendborg is a mix of old and new, with it's shipping traditions and new influences in commerce . Svendborg’s old town – with its narrow, winding streets, courtyards, and market squares – has been preserved. The town also serves as a hub for trips to the archipelago islands, either aboard one of the old wooden ships or ferries.

    Day 2 - with the weather still bad we visited the local chandler for a new gear shift cable and in a dry spell set to work on repairs. I was sent to undo the bolts in the ' tunnel' under the cockpit to avoid any chance of Ron's 'back trouble' 😏 & a bowl of water & sterilisation liquid to do a spot of cleaning..... you know - whilst you're there! Such a lucky girl. 😄
    Mission accomplished. 👍    Read more

  • Andrea BallBalls go BalticTraveler

    Nyborg

    July 5, 2024 in Denmark ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

    Although the winds were still strong and a thunderstorm had just passed through Svendborg we set off in the hope of a good downwind sail (for the most part), heading up between Fyn island's east coast & Langeland Island in the 'Great Belt'. About 20nm later, following the all too familiar heavy squall, surfing waves and at times some strong gusts, we arrived in Nyborg in sunshine and strong winds with some tricky conditions for mooring up. As we entered the harbour it looked liked our best option was to raft up on a largish boat just as the Swedish owner popped up to help direct us to a new empty pontoon on the other side and very helpfully came over to assist😏.
    It was about 5.30pm and we both were ready for an explore ashore. We discovered the town had just begun a historical medieval festival for the weekend 'Danehof 2024'.
    Danes in period dress parading around. 'Knights' on horse back giving a display in the stunning setting around the Nyborg castle and city Hall & Stolmollen (castle Mill) . We felt like we'd just been transported back in time although Ron's lavender crocs were one step too far to be able to blend in!

    The city was founded in the 1200s, built up geographically, historically and culturally around Nyborg Castle. In the middle ages, Nyborg was the site of the Danehof (Danish Parliament) and therefore to help remember this important period in Danish history they celebrate with the Danehof festival.

    Although the new harbour pontoon is set in amongst the built up apartments that must have once been the old docks it is smart and well done. A short walk leads you into the beautiful old town. There are some lovely cycling routes but maybe best saved for another day.
    In spite of very long downpours at the beginning and end of the day we enjoyed the last few hours of today's Danehof experience.    Read more

  • Andrea BallBalls go BalticTraveler

    Danehof 2024

    July 6, 2024 in Denmark ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Ron couldn't help chuckling at the obvious die hard Danehof campers but we soaked up the atmosphere and checked out the weekend programme. Jousting, Italian flag throwers, medieval parades, horse events and handicrafts, food & drink stalls along with the beautiful setting. A mix of Black Adder, Robin Hood & a touch of Viking outfits had Ron bemused. He agreed he was probably starting to fit in with his lack of washing 🤣 but we had a fun day considering the weather had us under its control.

    Shout out to the wonderful restaurant and first rate service at Roeds restaurant to end the evening. - 😋
    https://roeds-restaurant.dk/    Read more

  • Andrea BallBalls go BalticTraveler
    Hans Christian Anderson home
    Odense palaceWater poloNyborg watch towerNot one but two

    Odense day trip

    July 7, 2024 in Denmark ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

    Odense is 3rd largest city in Denmark and largest on Funen island. Home to the famous fairy tale writer Hans Christian Anderson who was born in the city in 1805 and spent his childhood years there. We followed the trail around the city dodging the showers which hi-lights key sites. The Cathedral with its red brick Gothic architecture is named after the Danish king Canute IV the Saint. The open caskets with remains of Canute and his brother Benedict are on display in the crypt 😳. They were both murdered at the site in 1086. It has an unusual altar & impressive carved pulpit.
    We had to check out the harbour options obviously and the area has a lovely outside pool in the sheltered spot between the residential buildings along with water sport space set up for water polo but limited space for Whisper. I wish I had taken my swimming costume as the sun had decided to come out.
    When we arrived back at Nyborg we had time to make the most of the evening sun on the bikes to continue our exploration of the cycle paths locally. Whisper had been joined by a Dragonfly tri. The crew were Swedish and travelling back home. It was good to get some info on options for winter boat storage.    Read more

  • Andrea BallBalls go BalticTraveler

    Bike trail, Nyborg

    July 8, 2024 in Denmark ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Today we stayed in Nyborg to prep the boat as we prepare to leave.😢 We stole a few hours to finish the last of the cycle routes in-between waiting for sails, dinghy & ropes to dry. As we cycled along I spotted the road warning sign- could do with this on Whisper 🤣
    The weather was kind..... so now the summer starts 😔!    Read more

  • Andrea BallBalls go BalticTraveler
    The little Mermaid

    Copenhagen 1

    Jul 9–11, 2024 in Denmark ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    After the final boat packing & last of the checks for the boat, we left to take the train to Copenhagen - just an hour and 20 mins away. The sun was shining so we enjoyed walking about the picturesque harbour fronts today and around the sights - so many churches with their fancy spires and monuments.
    Nyhavn, Christianshavn, there is so much. A wonderful atmosphere, hardly any cars, with bike only bridges. It's quietly buzzing. Scandi cool architecture.
    .....
    The metro is fantastic for getting about and so clean. Buy a 24hr city pass for 90Kk and you can hop on bus, water bus, metro any time. The metro runs 24/7.
    Find out more about :
    https://www.wonderfulcopenhagen.com/wonderful-c…    Read more

  • Andrea BallBalls go BalticTraveler

    Copenhagen day2

    July 10, 2024 in Denmark ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Day 2.... We opted to visit Christiansborg Palace just one of the many palaces in this wonderful. city The royal palace has beautiful reception rooms & stables, plus 12th-century castle remains. Once home to kings and queens, Christiansborg Palace now houses the Danish Parliament, the Supreme Court, and the Ministry of State.

    Considered one of the most sustainable cities in the world, Copenhagen has in total 546 km of bicycle paths, a fleet of electric harbour ferries .

    The harbour basins can hold 260,000 m3 of wastewater, which is equivalent to 111 Olympic-sized swimming pools (50m)making the water in the port so clean that it is suitable for swimming. Bathing takes place in the three wooden port pools called harbour baths with buoys marking “swimming zones”, and at an urban beach. Copenhagen was declared the best bathing city in the world by CNN in 2019.

    Copenhagen I'll be back to try this I hope.

    Sweden was beckoning as we caught a glimpse across the water on our stroll along Ameger Strand. The closest I got to a dip in the Baltic.. The water so clear and the lovely wood bathing pool with the views across to Saltholm nearly had me in .. all very tempting but with no swimsuit on me! Note to self for next time.
    So much left to discover....
    I look forward to the onward travel on our return. But for now farewell.. it's been wonderful!    Read more

  • Andrea BallBalls go BalticTraveler

    Linköping

    June 22 in Sweden ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Our 2 stop flight from Exeter via Schiphol meant we arrived late seeing the summer solstice aboard our 2nd flight in as we came in to land in Linköping( pronounced Linsherrrping here).
    Lovely hotel stop , incredible breakfast choice -such a shame I was not starving !Our whistlestop scooter tour was fun and with the hot day saved time and we didn't break a sweat in the scorching sun...
    Kinda Kanel with an impressive set of locks it spans 80km with 15 manually operated locks.
    We picked up our luggage and scooted to the station -& off to find a Whisper.    Read more

  • Andrea BallBalls go BalticTraveler

    Västervik

    Jun 22–24 in Sweden ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Off the train and a short walk to board Whisper at Slotsholmmen Marina , the sun shining - all looking good. Our first night on board and a local explore and provisioning. An early night after a delicious meal and the obligatory Swedish meatballs for Ronney 😋 . Our plans were to move on but weather and the need to purchase a few essential bits led to another night in this lovely city. The bromptons came out for the 4km ride to the larger boat supplies where we purchased a further 'yellow pages' sized guide of the 376 harbours oh and some rope of course. The sudden change in weather with impressive lightening & thunderstorm kept us local with a light supper and an evening stroll along the beautiful rose lined pavements and coloured wooden clad houses. The 'concrete seals' that block cars from open walk ways are much friendlier than barriers with their cute smiles.
    After much studying of the maps & charts we set plans for the next day.    Read more

  • Andrea BallBalls go BalticTraveler

    Långö

    June 24 in Sweden ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

    Despite both of us waking up at just after 3am with daylight pouring in through the companionway we still managed a slow start . The necessary bakery run ticked, water topped up we were all set , with a quick stop for fuel on the way out, the appeal to leave was somewhat clouded by the hefty 24+knots of wind blowing around the marina which unfortunately never eased all day.
    The route plotted and all devices mapped up we worked along the way points motor sailing with just the gib to steady Whisper in the gusts and confused waters. Careful to follow the track of buoys in the conditions it was definitely a 2 person navigation as we headed amongst the rocks and islands, with Ronney checking the guide and charts for opportunities to drop anchor or hook up to a SXK buoy (aka Sexy buoy) having had enough of the battering of the wind we decided to call it a day. The endless channels and possibilities to drop anchor are almost too much to take in. As we looked for the best option in our desire to rest up , we opted for the first available SKX buoy! Such an easy hook up and just what we needed, both feeling cold and weary. Congratulating ourselves on a successful mooring, we enviously admired the nearby Swedish yacht tied up to a tree adjacent to the island and stern anchor - one to look forward to for another day but not for us today. A long, relaxed evening, and finally, the wind died down at about 10pm. A touch of pink in the sky gives promise to better conditions tomorrow.    Read more

  • Andrea BallBalls go BalticTraveler

    Stora Ålö

    Jun 25–26 in Sweden ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    It was a good time to take the hint to get up as we slumbered in the early morning sway. The stillness and sunshine were calling so we got going back on our track from yesterday leaving the peaceful sheltered mooring behind. Once underway the wind was back to form and blowing but nothing like yesterday. Winding through the rocks
    was straight forward and we arrived at Stora Ålö where we picked up the tallest of SXK buoys (see photo). A dream of a pick up even at monohull height. So civilised these Swedes.

    We made the repair to the dinghy we think successfully - fingers crossed - and headed ashore to explore.

    Stora Ålö is a beautiful spot. Walking trails will take you around the 6.54 square km with connection these days to Boko through land uplift. Free amenities - bbq with all wood and tools , kayaks and sailing dinghies all just left for people to help themselves. Unfortunately the walk was brief as the island extended into large forestation , muddy trails and the sudden downpour as we landed ashore.
    Our mooring was so peaceful with just a few other boats , some fishing and a couple of Germans swimming. By the time evening drew in the magic of sunset with still, clear waters created a fantastic picture and stunning reflections hard to capture on my camera.
    People have lived on the island for a very long time .The island is mentioned as King Valdemars sailing route that passed through the strait between Bokö and Stora Ålö. Only 4 people lived here in 1615. It peaked with 56 people in 1871 but since then has continually decreased. Now just a few & holiday homes starting to emerge.    Read more

  • Andrea BallBalls go BalticTraveler
    2

    Harstena

    June 26 in Sweden ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    I discovered this interesting island from a random bit of reading I did the night before & it was definitely ticking lots of boxes on paper, so as we made the approach through the narrow channel - touching the marker buoys as we went through, it became obvious this was going to be something special. Topped off by the beautiful weather, this spectacular setting had a wonderful small community providing some all important added 'icing' making it such a memorable stop. Fortunately our early arrival meant we had a really full day still ahead -
    The dinghy engine was making an appearance since last year but was unfortunately a bit slow in coming out of hibernation. With the 'Bageri' calling it was a row in from our beautiful anchorage for now. Landing ashore the waft of the rustic smokery was enticing.
    I checked the restaurant times.... and no need to book ' just show up from 6pm & we'll be open as long as you want' . So first stop coffee and cinnamon bun for breakfast. The chance to pick up some fresh bread always a bonus.
    We enjoyed a leisurely walk around the island with such beautiful scenery at every inlet . The gneiss & granite rocks are impressive and the clusters of 'falu red' ( originating from the Falun copper mines) wood clad buildings built around them to form perfect natural patios. Wild meadows and wooded pathways leading back to the quayside where the smoked salmon,still warm, was just ready to serve. That was lunch sorted back on board!

    Later, after the captain proudly worked his magic on the engine, we enjoyed a further explore around the area by dinghy before supper. The local sheep came across the neighbouring island to watch the sunset .
    Our evening meal spent with a lovely couple of Swedes mostly sharing thoughts on the attitudes and differences of us and their European neighbours - a fun night and good recommendations for the onward journey.    Read more

  • Andrea BallBalls go BalticTraveler

    Soviken ( Torö)

    June 27 in Sweden ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

    An early start and stroll to bakery before departure from Harstena. The weather grey and light winds.
    The dinghy is slowly deflating!The repair job was successful on the hole we did but not a large enough patch it would seem, as the tiniest of holes now found just outside the patch .
    Our route today was to head towards Nynäsham .... it was a long day downwind thank goodness- with little help from the sails. The light squalls kept the temperature down . By the time we headed into the narrows for shelter, the wind picked up, and in true Whisper style, we were reaching 10knots . The light was still good as we found the buoys, but both were taken so in a very windy spot ( although substantially sheltered in comparison to the open sea) we anchored firmly.
    After a long day. We settled in and let the sway commence. The wind refused to die down till the early hours, so the remoteness could not be fully appreciated on board as we kept warm below.    Read more

  • Andrea BallBalls go BalticTraveler

    Nynäshamn

    Jun 28–30 in Sweden ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    The wind was still fairly calm as we lifted the anchor. Sticky mud that had kept us nice and secure all night meant for a messy lift.
    So today, we took the short hop here to set up for a couple of nights in Nynäshamn. Quite a contrast to our recent remoteness.
    This island is a connection hub just 50km from Stockholm with trains, ferries,cruise boats & yachts . That, in turn, brings people. Despite all this, it still seemed relatively quiet to us except for our initial provisioning explore where, seemingly, every family had come out for the local childrens fair. The great facilities and incredible value at the large marina meant a chance to do the laundry . A great way to while away the time in the wash facilities which had a very smart sauna!
    We walked along to the old water tower, which is now an observation tower & overlooks the town and the Stockholm Archipelago.
    We picked up some lovely fresh cherries and, of course, the choice of bakery provisions from the van. The ubiquitous Swedish favourite is here - Nynas Rökeri - a fish and shrimp smokehouse - is one of the most famous smokehouses in Sweden situated along the front.
    The nearby 'bathing rooms' have an amazing setting, which we passed on the approach into the marina . We popped in and were allowed to stay for a coffee. The place is full of sauna options with white robed guests , pools outside, and plenty of people having drinks in the pools and then throwing buckets of cold water over each other. It's a Swedish thing 😆
    With very strong winds building, we made a plan to take the train to Stockholm tomorrow.
    Monday - a work morning in the office 😆
    Tonight, it will be a luxury to have hot running water and a shower.    Read more

  • Andrea BallBalls go BalticTraveler

    Stockholm

    June 29 in Sweden ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

    The hour long direct train journey from Nynäsham was relaxing even with the 20 or so stops on the way arriving at just after 9am .
    The sun & wind were waiting for us when we emerged from the depths of central station. We took in the scenery, noting the bouncing boats caused by the huge number of ferries & leisure trips, along with the vey windy day & we felt we'd made a good decision to take the train rather than bring Whisper in to the city- well this time anyway. See photo of the wooden logs used as fenders, an unusual use for all that forest wood.

    So first stop just had to be the Vasa museum - the incredible preservation of the King's ship that sunk on its maiden voyage in 1628 after just 20 minutes /1300 metres. Lifted in 1959 and is one of the oldest preserved ships in the world.
    Both of us were really excited to see this and it didn't disappoint. The museum exhibition spans 6/7floors, and the Vasa is easily viewed at every angle and height with so much interesting information on every aspect - from the build through to the voyage, salvage and preservation. Beautiful extravagant carvings and 95% original ship. I could go on and on about our visit - the nearly 4hours we spent there probably says it all!
    So after a lunch stop, we were ready for some lighthearted fun, so I managed to persuade Ron that a little bit of ABBA is what he needed!
    So Benny and Frida Ball took to the museum. It was great and we came out singing and laughing. .. I joined the avatars for a dancing queen moment, obviously !
    Walking around the city through the old town Gamla Stan, the Royal Palace , through the archways passing the government buildings and window shopping.
    The great thing about the Swedish days is that they are long, and we've been making the most of them. So much so that we were pretty weary by the time we'd eaten and began the journey back on the train at about 9pm. But still, we will be back - there is so much more to see, including some very chic shops I hadn't even got close to stepping inside.    Read more

  • Andrea BallBalls go BalticTraveler
    1

    UTÖ

    June 30 in Sweden ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Left Nynäshamn in the afternoon and a lovely short sunny sail of 12 miles & we arrived at this lovely island meaning 'outer island' and is one of the south western islands of the Stockholm archipelago known for its nature.

    The drop in wind was a welcome change & whilst Ron took the dinghy off for an explore I got the paints out to capture the view from Whisper.
    Our walk later took us through the woods and to the islands' restaurant after first checking the moorings and a fairly new Dragonfly 32.. lovely boat which was just our 2nd trimaran on this year's trip. The staff at the restaurant were great. Our walk back was late but still the light remained . The stillness and warmth meant the light over the water at nearly midnight created a picture perfect setting. The only downside was the mosquitoes insisted on joining in the action. Protection required tonight!

    As we sat in the stillness with our morning cuppa at 7am the nearby small island rock was a clucking . It sounded like a distant engine in idle but was in fact the flock of ducks inhabiting it.
    Perhaps they were having something to say about the neighbouring Germans skinny dipping - a little bit of villy and cheek just for Ronney.! The day was hot and sunny , it seemed the perfect opportunity to take my most northerly swim. The temperature a refreshing 13.5°C but bearable for a circumnavigation of Whisper .
    Such a special island, but it was time to move on after lunch so we lifted the hook from the shallow waters and got underway.    Read more

  • Andrea BallBalls go BalticTraveler
    1

    Kymmendö

    July 1 in Sweden

    A fairly easy hop heading north east from Utö along the islands coast and channels we arrived in strong winds & sunshine at this peaceful island. A beautiful anchorage for tonight in calm sheltered waters.

    Kymmendö was the first island we have found with an active agricultural farm. Sheep & horses in the meadows and lake gave this island quite a different feel. The island's sea gas station was a bit like a motorway sevices with nearby shop and restaurant.
    We sat there in the sun with a drink, watching the motorboats attempt to tie up in the stong winds and bouncing pontoon..

    August Strindberg (poet /writer -) spent many summers here on Kymmendö and was inspired by the island’s inhabitants and its beautiful environment ( book The People of Hemso .) His writing cottage as it's described is infact a hut . We decided the (not intentional) long walk to the hut must have been what inspired him to write because the hut itself was not particularly exciting or inspiring. After his book, the People of Hemso, was published, he was forbidden to ever come back, having offended the locals so badly.

     The natural beauty of this and all the islands have all seemed to run in their own special way, giving them their charm. This island seemed a bit tired after Utö but certainly, some building was imminent for boat sheds and repairs.
    The season here takes a really slow start and we are only just seeing the beginnings of more people arriving in the islands.
    Once again we were spoilt with the beautiful long day topped off with a beautiful sunset that kept on giving.    Read more

  • Andrea BallBalls go BalticTraveler
    1

    On our way to Sandhamn via Namdo

    July 2 in Sweden ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    The joy of no tides to think or plan around. Out on the nets to soak in some sun 😎 ... lovely passage to Sandhamn. Exploring through the narrow channels and taking in the outer island life.

    The Bay of Jungfru reminded us of the med and corfu - glassy waters, blue skies and hot sun. The distant islands and the rich green coverage had the look of olive trees.

    Small channels with tiny islands - & their clusters of little houses - many with launching trailer type rolling slipways and jetties - boats and sun decks interspersed amongst the trees and waterside . We were merely catching a glimpse of the Swedish summer life & even if you had years of exploring this vast archipelago, you'd probably still not see it all.    Read more

  • Andrea BallBalls go BalticTraveler

    Sandhamn & Lökholmen day 1

    Jul 2–4 in Sweden ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    There was a real buzz arriving at Sandhamn . The last of the racing boats were coming in from the Gotland Runt, so all visiting yachts were pushed to the small island Lökholmen which neighbours it with a 5 min ferry to the main town at Sandhamn but this was perfect as we slowly made our way through the narrow granite entrance to emerge into the mini fjord like inlet. Our early arrival secured an easy mooring in a sheltered shallow spot . We immediately wanted to explore the island with its more rustic feel. The boardwalk all the way around the inlet worked in harmony with the natural rockface. The occasional large ledge made perfect bbq platforms, and by the evening, the gathering of boats with all age groups had the bbq's lined up.
    We decided to take the handy free ferry to Sandhamn just in time to check out the fancy yachts that had arrived in from the Gotland Rund. A buzz of excitement all around for winners' presentation evening . Happy Ronney checking out the big boats set up. This historic sailing race first began in 1937 and as we made our ferry trip across we chatted to a Swedish sailor who had taken part in it 5 times and was here with his son to celebrate with his friends taking part this year .

    This top spot is just fantastic, and we were so lucky to enjoy all the action and find space in this very special place at Lökholmen.    Read more

  • Andrea BallBalls go BalticTraveler
    Now it's an office! And yes , Ronney was actually on the phone..
    Office view.Swedish fika

    Sandhamn & Lökholmen day 2

    Jul 3–4 in Sweden ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    Plans today were to further explore Sandhamn - the island of sand - regarded as one of the oldest Swedish seaside resorts since its first regular boat service arrived in 1865 along with the
    steamboat enticing summer visitors.

     So after a semi warm shower and a morning working in our office setup on Whisper - we were ready for a bit of Swedish 'fika' ( coffee and snack [cake] so a trip to the bakery was called for . We'd also been given a tip to try the Sandhamn Limpa bread . ( a lighter more bread like malty loaf - it is good). The trails around Lökholmen up to the observatory with the fluffy carpets of lichen are stunning.
    I can see why it is a paradise for sailors. We fell in love with its rustic charm and natural beauty.
    We enjoyed time at the cute museum & a picnic on the sandy beach ( a rare find in the Swedish archipelagos) .
    After a stroll around, we headed back to Whisper on Lökholmen where the large Oceanis 48(Vilma) that had arrived behind us initially but moved over later as the reports of extremely strong winds due overnight had created a flurry of mild panic in the inlet . Even though we were extremely sheltered from the west, the northwesterlies forecast 45 -50 knots, which had everyone checking lines and fenders. It would seem more of 'everything' was the order of the day. Our new friends on Vilma were very entertaining. Lots of stories shared. Many people asking us about our travels and 'had we really come all the way from England on this boat?'. Just outside the inlet the white crests were getting bigger and to windward over the rocks there were 3 boats bouncing & clanking around up to 1.5metres, and it looked like they were going to have an uncomfortable if not scary night .
    Already, our sheltered mooring was reading 33knots, but the night came and went uneventfully for us, but sadly reports from the Swedes were there'd been a sinking out to sea just off the island. Fortunately, the crew had been safely rescued.    Read more

  • Andrea BallBalls go BalticTraveler
    Floating sauna - Lökholmen

    Blidö - Stämmarsund

    Jul 4–5 in Sweden ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    A last farewell to Lökholmen before setting North to Bildö. Sun out ,wind good - sail on!
    Racing Ron took on any boat and "see ya'd " the day along.
    We both were so excited to see a fellow Corsair F32. Big whoops and waving from both boats as we passed each other cameras in hand, taking photos of each other in mutual admiration.
    Blidö was completely empty of other yachts. We wondered why? The shared facilities with the guest hostel ( mostly occupied by a group of middle-aged bikers)behind the restaurant had lovely hot showers, and no communal bathing required - so far, so good.
    A wander around with lots of new development - a town having a makeover and new development planned for the waterside. The St Tropez cafe/deli was an incongruous surprise with many upmarket French and Italian foods . We obviously made a plan to pop back for a look in the morning to top up with some treaty provisions.
    The large restaurant later that evening had very friendly staff & delicious herring! Vanessa, our waitress was doing her best to explain the menu from Swedish, and any word she spoke in Swedish instead of English was followed by 'shit' . Hence, she became known as 'shit Vanessa' .She was full of character, very gorgeous and so friendly. I asked about a post box to send some mail. She didn't know and went off to ask someone. Apparently, they were all too young to know what I was talking about 🤣 . How old did I feel !🤔
    So, after a few drinks, we strolled down the hill to the boat . It was about midnight and a decent bedtime for grandparents!
    The night was not over ... a young group arrived by small motor boat . Engine on and music going loudly . I think we got peace at about 3am . Was this perhaps the reason why no others stopped here overnight?
    It was still a great spot and set us up well for our onward journey to the Åland archipelago, Finland .    Read more

  • Andrea BallBalls go BalticTraveler

    Rodhamn -Långö - Åland island

    July 5 in Finland ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    5 hours- 43 miles in light winds -2 soggy sailors arrived in Finland at this very welcoming island.
    Hospitality 10 , weather 0.

    Åland is an autonomous region of Finland, comprising 6,700 islands in the archipelago.

    This small island, with its distinctive smooth rolling rocks and stunning views, had us hooked instantly despite the terrible weather on arrival . Maybe it had something to do with the warmest of welcomes from Annette.
    Annette Gustafsson, who lives /works here, is also an artist, and she captures the archipelago beauty in her stunning watercolours . ( See her Instagram page: annette_gustafsson_art to see what I mean).
    Our all round dampness was lifted with homemade cake and cream. The sauna soon had me warmed up. Bliss! I opted for the shower rather than the plunge in the cold water. There were no Swedes around to frown on me ! I made the most of my new found warmth and got to bed after a tiring day. Ron managed to capture the ethereal magic of our midnight first in Finland.
    The following morning, the delivery of our pre ordered homemade fresh bread rolls whilst we explored the island came with handy weather forcast drawn on the bag- such a lovely detail. We went up to the radio beacon - in service from 1937 to 1970. It is the only radio beacon in Finland preserved in its original state. A fascinating museum .
    Långö also had a pilot station from 1818 to the end of the 1920s. The newly built replica of the old pilot cottage stands proudly on the highest part of the island. Annette's husband raised the Finnish flag as we stopped to take in the view- all part of his daily routine, as well as 'long drop' toilet cleaner and bread delivery by wheelbarrow.

    We realised later that the visiting foreign yachts have the Åland flag flying . For now the Finnish flag would have to do. We found ourselves in a bit of a delayed reaction to the fact that we were in a new country. Seemingly, at first glance, not unlike Sweden with Swedish as their spoken language too , but with lots more to be explored, we set off for Mariehamn    Read more

  • Andrea BallBalls go BalticTraveler

    Mariehamn

    July 6 in Finland ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    The short sail north to the capital of Åland was bracing . By the time we moored up, I was getting very cold. The captain had options as to which harbour to choose & the info was not that helpful so with a 15 mile sail situation between the 2 ( west and east creating a type of island feel ) we opted for Österhamn & obviously had to check out the other one upon landing by foot to stretch the legs and oh look ... check out the museum ship Pommern - a magnificent merchant ship of 1903.
    I was feeling a little cold , tired, and historied out. The coffee pick-me-up and obvious 'kanel bun ' for fika time got me ready for the history lesson. I am so glad I didn't bunk off! The boardwalk - now so familiar everywhere on the island harbours across and around rocks was not to be left out here. A lovely feature used to navigate us fully around the ships hull at just above water level. A great starting point and viewing platform in which to take in the ships' size.

    This impressive ship built in Scotland is the only four-masted barque in the world still in its original state. Bought by the Åland shipowner Gustaf Erikson in 1923, Pommern has carried timber from Scandinavia, saltpetre from Chile, and grain from Australia. Her last commercial voyage was done in 1939 and since 1952 Pommern has been a museum ship. The ship is now owned by the Town of Mariehamn but is managed by the Åland Maritime Museum Trust. The “Pommern – 100 Days under Sail" experience gives a guided tour based on crew stories and real events. I practised a splice and enjoyed the film with some of the crew's accounts of their voyage to Australia.
    Spotted on board watching with us was British sailor and yachting journalist, Tom Cunliffe, who later, we discovered on his youtube blog, was also finding the weather bloody cold to go sailing and had stoked his solid fuel stove fire on board his yacht Constance, a Mason 44. Lucky Tom!
    The newly purchased Åland flag was hoisted. We opted for the boat restaurant in the harbour for a treat ashore. By the time we returned we were both glowing as we warmed up from the north westerly wind bashing today.

    In the morning, we enjoyed a stroll around the pedestrianised centre in the morning and topped up the provisions for further exploring over the next few days.    Read more

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