• Tom Hixson
  • Kevin Sarmento

Faroes,Channel Islands, London

A 15-day adventure by Tom & Kevin Read more
  • Trip start
    June 17, 2025

    Island Hopping

    June 17 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    We're leaving now, en route to Edinburgh through DC with an overnight in Edinburgh before starting our journey to the Faroe Islands. After that, we will hit Guernsey and Jersey in the Channel Islands before heading to London for an opera performance at Glyndebourne, followed by a visit to friends Chris and Kate Cowls in Surrey before heading home.Read more

  • Edinburgh and the Big Show

    Jun 18–24 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    Long flight to Edinburgh, so we will get a good night's sleep at the Dalmahoy Hotel tonight before flying to the Faroes tomorrow. Hotels around Edinburgh are full (and expensive!) due to the Royal Highland Show which starts tomorrow and goes through June 22nd. This is an annual event, apparently Scotland's largest annual gathering, which focuses on livestock judging, tractors,food, and all things farming, Who knew? We didn't.Read more

  • Waterfalls, Sheep, Tunnels & Turf

    June 19 in Faroe Islands ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    We just got to the Faroe Islands and rented a car for the 40 minute drive to the main town, Torshavn. Scenery is spectacular with excellent roads, no traffic, and an elaborate under-ocean tunnel network which connects the islands. We haven't seen a single tree, but lush grass covers the islands, as well as long-haired sheep. Unbelievable waterfalls abound, and many homes and businesses sport vibrant green turf roofs.

    We're looking forward to a drive tomorrow to another series of islands and a ferry ride which will take us to a trail head for a spectacular hike to a remote lighthouse.

    Our base is Torshavn which is reportedly the smallest world capital with only 14,000 inhabitants.

    We just got here so there is more to come over the next 4 days
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  • It's All About the Scenery

    June 20 in Faroe Islands ⋅ ⛅ 52 °F

    We started the day by driving out of Torshavn intending to catch the ferry to another island so we could hike to the amazing lighthouse in Kallur but we got so distracted by the awesome scenery along the way that we missed the boat by 11 minutes. Drat! But we'll try again on Sunday, and stay more focused the next time.
    From Klaksvik, we drove to an overlook (Klakkur) with awesome views of this fishing town (see photos). Then, we stopped at the remarkable village of Nordragota with its turf roofs and fascinating art and architecture. Back in Torshavn, we visited their national museum and learned a lot about Faroese history starting with first settlements around the year 650. Tonight we're headed to one of their acclaimed restaurants with locally sourced ingredients. We're skipping the fermented and dried sheep meat. Tomorrow involves a boat trip to see a puffin colony.

    After 24 hours in the Faroes, a few quick observations surfaced:
    *Despite the challenges of living in this remote windswept country, its beauty is staggering everywhere one turns.
    *The tunnels connecting the islands are engineering marvels. The longest one today was over 6 miles long with roundabouts connecting various exit opportunities.
    *Fish and sheep and tourism drive the economy so expect to see lots of fishing boats, grazing herds, and well-heeled Danish tourists.
    *Almost everything needs to be imported so a vacation here gets expensive--- you won't see 20 something backpackers on a budget.
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  • Farms and Puffins

    June 21 in Faroe Islands ⋅ 🌬 50 °F

    This morning we visited a traditional farmhouse dating back to the 1830s which has been preserved as a museum. It showcased the main farmhouse with its two kitchens and a number of outer buildings such as barns, storage sheds, and workshops, providing a realistic and fascinating representation of early life in the Faroe Islands. We also learned all about the sod roofs which can last 50 years if done properly however the grass has to be mowed several times each summer. Someone has to get up on the roof with a weed whacker, although some folks are now using small robot lawn mowers depending on the pitch of the roof. What could go wrong?

    After a quick lunch in Torshavn's busy shopping mall, we headed over to Vestmanna to catch a boat tour of the majestic cliffs. Words can't describe the incredible scenery! Sheer rock cliffs occasionally sprout small patches of grass so sheep have adapted to climbing on nearly vertical surfaces because, of course, hard to reach grass is tastier, but their owners eventually have to scale down 400 meter cliffs on ropes to bring the wayward sheep back to civilization. But these folks are used to it; a related traditional practice is for Faroese men to suspend themselves on ropes along sheer cliffs to scoop up puffin eggs from their rock nests (and occasionally catch puffins to eat, a local delicacy).

    We had a great dinner last night at Aarstova set in a charming old house with lots of character. Tonight we're trying Barbara Fish House, a highly rated restaurant in an old sod roofed house.

    And tomorrow we will try our lighthouse hike again, provided we don't miss the ferry this time.
    [Note: we had an amazing dinner at the restaurant Barbara which combined fresh Faroese seafood with Spanish, Galician and Portuguese culinary touches. Amazing! And it was housed in a charming 16th century house dripping with "hygge" and named after the main character in Jacobsen's Faroese novel Barbara. Wow!]
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  • To the Lighthouse!

    June 22 in Faroe Islands ⋅ 🌧 54 °F

    It's been a long day but we made it!
    We got up early today and crossed through several islands before reaching Klaskvik where we boarded the ferry to Kalso Island. At that point we, along with an international gaggle of hikers, hopped on a local bus to the trail head and then hiked through some of the most breathtaking scenery imaginable before reaching the lighthouse at Kallur.
    It's not possible to convey the magnificence of this site so I'd best direct attention to the attached photos and videos.

    For the James Bond fans out there: part of the last JB movie was filmed at this site, and the film crew donated a monument to his memory here. RIP...

    Tomorrow we leave the Faroes for an overnight in Edinburgh and then to the Channel Islands.
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  • Waterfalls

    June 23 in Faroe Islands ⋅ 🌧 48 °F

    We're winding up our tour of the Faroes today and heading back to Edinburgh. But we did manage to take in one last sight, the iconic Múlafossur Waterfall on the far western side of the country. It was quite misty but we could see the falls quite well after hiking a mile in the rain and mud. We leave with happy memories of this magical place.

    We learned today that the 2 month old, and already highly acclaimed, Torshavn restaurant Paz just received 2 Michelin stars. Cost? Close to $400 for their set menu without wine (add another $323 for wine) and although they will not share the daily menu, they hint that the dried/fermented sheep and fish are likely players in each day's offerings. We're not sorry we missed it.
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  • Guernsey!

    June 24 in England ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    We arrived last night on Guernsey, a charming destination with a long quirky history. Because of my association with the Robert Louis Stevenson Museum in St Helena, I have been affiliated with the Victor Hugo in Guernsey Society and the folks there have welcomed us to their world, which is fascinating. Roy Bisson, who leads this organization, was kind enough to show us highlights of Guernsey and took us to lunch in a local pub before sightseeing with a focus on Victor Hugo sites. Hugo, an exile from France, lived for 15 years on Guernsey where he wrote most of his famous works, including Les Miserables and Toilers of the Sea. Tomorrow, we visit his home, Hauteville House, which is now a museum, before heading over to Jersey for a brief overnight visit.

    I've enjoyed the fairly recent "Guernsey Literary and Potato Peel Pie Society" which provides great background on the German occupation of Guernsey during WWII. Trauffaut's amazing "Adele H." recounts the true story of Hugo's insane daughter, Adele, as she stalked a would-be boyfriend by following him to Nova Scotia despite his rebuffs. She was eventually placed in a French insane assylum for the last 40 years of her life. Both films are highly recommended, as are Victor Hugo's writings.
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  • Left to Right

    June 26 in Guernsey ⋅ 🌬 64 °F

    This morning, we toured Hugo's Guernsey home, Hauteville House. Not only was Hugo a great novelist, poet, and artist, but he literally designed every inch of this fantastic home filled with symbolism relating to his life and political/spiritual beliefs. During his time here the dining room was open once a week to poor children who were fed and given a glass of wine, but they had to listen to Hugo expound on the necessity of reading and learning!

    The pictures attached can't do Hauteville House justice.

    This afternoon, we flew to Jersey (10 minutes away, possibly the shortest flight we've experienced), but it's a different world here. Where Guernsey is progressive, UK oriented, and left leaning, Jersey tends to be very conservative and takes its cues from nearby France----and they have McDonalds and KFC. Our Guernsey acquaintances suggested we not linger long in Jersey. Now that we are here in Jersey, we learn that locals are not terribly fond of the Guernsey folk. We are just here overnight so we won't be Jersey experts although we have learned to avoid picking up Guernsey or Jersey currency: once we get to London, we'll have a hard time ditching either banknotes, although theoretically they are supposed to be accepted everywhere in the UK. We learned that lesson the hard way on the Isle of Man and North Ireland which likewise have their own currencies.

    Tomorrow we head to London for a very different change of scenery.

    [Now that we've been in Jersey for a bit, we've discovered there's a huge Portuguese community here so we are now happily chomping on pasteis de nata in a Portuguese bakery, right outside a Portuguese church. Kevin's on Cloud 9]
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  • A Night at the Opera

    June 28 in England ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    After a leisurely morning in London, we boarded the train to Lewes for a short transfer to the Glyndebourne estate to attend a performance of Handel's "Saul." Glyndebourne is unique in that the opera house is on the grounds of an old estate where fashionably dressed folks converge in the gardens for champagne and smart canapes beforehand. The opera started at 5PM with a long intermission midway to allow time for a lavish dinner or a lavish picnic.

    I have to admit I was dubious about this opera (Handel? Ugh. Bible story? Ugh) but an opera performance depends on many other things, and this was a standout winner---sets, costumes, 600 burning candles, and especially the cast (countertenor Iestyn Davies was amazing) made for one of the most extraordinary opera experiences I've ever had. And the tale of an insane and corrupt ruler dragging his country down into the muck was not lost on us.

    A terrific performance and incredible people watching, followed by a relaxed 1 hour train ride put us downtown shortly after 11. What a great day!

    See one of the reviews at

    https://www.theartsdesk.com/opera/saul-glyndebo…

    And more info on Iestyn---

    https://www.classicfm.com/discover-music/iestyn…

    Today, we are off to Dorking in Surrey to stay with friends before heading home Tuesday, exhausted but happy!

    [And for Janet Fletcher--Sussex cheeses after dinner: 'Sir George of Glyndebourne',Sussex Blue,and Sussex camembert all great with rhubarb tart!!]
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  • JOURNEY'S END

    June 30 in England ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    We exchanged London yesterday for Dorking in Surrey where we're staying with Kevin's friends from Aberdeen college days, Chris and Kate. It's always great fun to see them. Chris took us to Shere, called "the most beautiful village in England." And it was definitely charming, especially since folks had opened up their gardens yesterday for a charity event. Kate, meanwhile, cooked a lovely dinner which we took outdoors in their garden, thanks to global warming. It must have been in the mid 80s, which used to be unlikely but now is not so uncommon.

    David and his wife Maria (more folks from Aberdeen days) came down from London to join us all for Kates' amazing lunch. We walked around their village of Dorking (I didn't want to ask if locals are called "Dorks"...maybe "Dorkonians?"). Lots of very old inns and shops downtown. Dickens wrote "Pickwick Papers" and "Little Dorritt" here according to plaques.

    But our trip ends early tomorrow as we return home with many happy memories. In the meantime, we hope you are all well and safe and enjoying the summer!

    Tom and Kevin
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    Trip end
    July 1, 2025