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Laos, Bhutan & NE India
  • Tom Hixson
  • Kevin Sarmento

Laos, Bhutan & NE India

A 17-day adventure by Tom & Kevin Read more
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  • Trip start
    April 22, 2025
  • Laos, Bhutan & NE India

    Overnight in Bangkok

    April 24 in Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 90 °F

    Just arrived in Bangkok and headed tomorrow to Laos to start our adventure. Stay tuned!

  • Laos, Bhutan & NE India
    Hotel La Residence
    1Bowls with fresh flowersEntertainment at night marketNight market

    Luang Prabang

    April 25 in Laos ⋅ ☀️ 91 °F

    This morning's 2 hour flight from Bangkok delivered us to beautiful Luang Prabang, notable for its remarkable geography (steep mountain peaks divided by the Mekong River) as well as its royal palaces, gilded Buddhist temples, sumptuous textiles and artwork, and incredible cuisine. Tonight we're visiting the night market and then dining at the Little Lao restaurant (https://www.theyumlist.net/2024/11/little-lao-c… author of this article seems like a rather annoying individual, but her descriptions of the food accurately convey the dining experience).
    Dinner at Little Lao was incredible...if this restaurant was in SF or NY you wouldn't be able to book a table for months. Delicious and unusual but some dishes VERY spicy!

    We head tomorrow morning at 5:45 to see the Buddhist monks line up with their alms bowls which are filled each morning with rice cooked by local residents. A tour of the Royal Palace, history museum,and a mountain top temple will complete the day's adventure in time to enjoy our hotel's fabulous pool. And yes, it is HOT here!    Read more

  • Laos, Bhutan & NE India
    Monks' alms procession
    Kevin in the foregroundGolden Buddha in 500 year old templeExterior of Golden Buddha templeTom coping (poorly) with the heat4Manda de Laos restaurant

    Monks, Palaces, Temples

    April 26 in Laos ⋅ ☀️ 90 °F

    The Buddhist monks' alms procession is a daily ritual in Luang Prabang starting around sunrise when it's still cool. Barefoot monks in colorful robes travel single file through the main streets with their alms bowls as residents, sitting on small stools, dispense sticky rice (and sometimes candy bars) to the mendicants. Quite a moving sight in this beautiful UNESCO Heritage town which is characterized by its Laotian architecture with a few French influences.

    A local guide and former monk took us to the Royal Palace (no pictures allowed) which became a museum after the communists took over. Fabulous rooms evoke regal grandeur, Laotian style. The last king was required to endorse the communist regime, which he refused to do, so he and the queen were whisked off to the remote north where they lived in a cave until their deaths.

    There are many Buddhist temples in LP, but we visited one of the finest, a 500 year old building with a gigantic golden Buddha and multitudes of worshipers lighting candles,offering marigolds, and delivering small gifts to the monks.

    The Hmong people make up 10 % of the population of Laos; they are not Buddhist, but they subscribe to spirit worship. Because they helped the US government during the Vietnam era, they were later targeted by the communist government which led to a great dispersal of Hmong to other countries, including French Guiana in South America as well as large colonies in California and Minnesota where families still preserve their traditional culture.

    Tonight we're dining at Manda de Laos which is set around lotus ponds.(https://www.mandadelaos.com/). Laotian cuisine has been a revelation to us for its unique, fresh, and innovative style.

    Tomorrow we head to locally famous waterfalls for a quick swim and then a boat ride up the Mekong River to visit ancient caves filled with Buddhist art.    Read more

  • Laos, Bhutan & NE India
    Hmong host dances and plays instrument
    1Spinning flax1Hmong familyKuang Si Waterfalls1Happy elephant eating sugar caneLull before the cloudburst2Mangosteens for dessert!

    Cloudburst on the Mekong

    April 27 in Laos ⋅ ☁️ 82 °F

    A great day even though things don't always go as planned. We had the same excellent guide as yesterday who took us through the countryside to the Kuang Si waterfalls. But first we stopped in a Hmong village and learned about their lives which haven't changed in hundreds of years (grinding corn with a millstone, hunting wild pigs with cross bows, spinning thread from flax etc). We mentioned that there were Hmong communities in California and our host said, "Oh yeah. Fresno!" with more enthusiasm than Fresno generally elicits.

    The Kuang Si waterfalls were extensive and quite beautiful, but a dip in the enticing swimming pools was quickly marred by multitudes of tiny fish slithering next to us. The guide said they were harmless and just giving us a kiss, but we decided to leave that experience. to the other tourists.

    We had a nice lunch overlooking the Mekong at an elephant camp, which provides a refuge for elephants as well as black bears. From there, we were to board a boat to cross the river to visit the Pak Ou caves containing 14th-century Buddhist paintings, but a sudden and ferocious storm set in. Amidst hail and lightening and an unrelenting downpour, we got soaked, trees blew over, and some fearful folks hid under the dining tables, so the cave trip had to be aborted.

    Tomorrow we leave Luang Prabang wishing we had more time here. Overnight tomorrow in Bangkok and then an early flight the next day to Bhutan, whose government measures Gross Domestic Happiness. And don't we all need a good dose of that these days?    Read more

  • Laos, Bhutan & NE India
    Arrival in Paro
    Welcome scarvesBhutan's Royal Family115th century chain bridgeShrine with prayer wheels.Tiny stupas honor the dead with paper mantras embedded in base.1More stupas inside small shrine.

    Bhutan !!

    April 29 in Bhutan ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    We arrived in Bhutan early this morning and immediately became aware that we were in a special universe, unlike any other place. The mountains are staggeringly gorgeous, and the architecture is uniquely beautiful---the best of Tibet and Switzerland mixed together. Even the humblest buildings feature intricate wood carving and beautiful painted decorations. All men wear long smocks (ghos), and women wear kiras, elaborately embroidered dresses.

    We drove from the beautiful Paro airport to the capital Thimphu and visited a precarious 15th century bridge, high over a swirling river, leading to a grand temple. Nearby was a large cave where saintly hermits occupy the space, one at a time, for 3 years, 3 months, and 3 days as a purification ritual.

    The streets of the main road are adorned with prayer flags and pictures of Bhutan' s king along with photos of the Thai king and queen who just left today after a state visit.

    We're resting this afternoon before starting our tours tomorrow. It's refreshing, for a change, to be in a country that honors tranquility, intelligence, and beauty.

    .    Read more

  • Laos, Bhutan & NE India
    Bhutan's version of a traffic light
    Fun factsFirst view of Cheri MonasteryView from CheriExterior monastery muralsMore muralsMonastery courtyardMonastery tower entranceWe made a canine friend3Fertility Garden, Bhutan's viagraPrayer wheels at Thimpu Chorten

    A long climb up the mountain

    April 30 in Bhutan ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    Today's adventure began with a 90-minute drive into spectacular pine and rhododendron-clad mountains to the trail head for our climb to Chagri Dorjeden Monastery, also called Cheri Monastery. No roads up, so the only way to get there is to hike. We started at 8000 feet and went up to about 9000 feet which doesn't sound so bad, but it was uphill all the way. But what a sight! Built in 1620, it is still a practicing monastery similar to ones in Lhasa , but this one is in such immaculate condition with vibrant murals and gilded woodwork, unlike the somewhat dusty, faded, and poorly maintained ones we saw in Tibet. Unfortunately, we couldn't take interior pictures, but I hope the exterior photos convey some sense of the beauty and grandeur of this magnificent spot.

    The afternoon found us back in Thimphu where we visited the extraordinary textile museum, and a "living village" which featured archery, a national sport, and the Fertility Garden (more on that later), as well as traditional dancing accompanied by salted butter tea refreshments (nasty stuff). We later visited a large stupa (aka a chorten) dedicated to a former king, and finished the day at an extensive produce market which had a lovely selection of dried yak cheese cubes (rolled in sugar) which are truly nauseating, at least to my delicate palate.

    Tired and sore, we're heading off to bed now.    Read more

  • Laos, Bhutan & NE India
    Our group:5 Aussies,1 Brit,4 Yanks
    177 foot Buddha outside ThimpiuKevin aspires to be a deity10000 ft Dochula Pass memorial stupasFlags commemorate the deceased2Murals at today's lunch restaurantStupas at the nunnery1Main stupa at nuneryRiver through Punakha

    Buddhas, a Madman & a Nunnery

    May 1 in Bhutan ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    We left Thimphu this morning and first visited the 177 foot seated Buddha temple. The interior contains an astonishing 120,000 Buddha statues lining the walls with more added all the time.

    We next ascended to the stunning Dochula pass at 10k feet with sweeping views. Clouds obscured the Tibetan Himalayas to the north, but occasional glimpses of snowy peaks gave hope that we'll see them when we go back over this pass Saturday. There are 108 beautiful shrines to honor the deceased at the summit, and the whole atmosphere was spectacularly surreal.

    We then descended to the village of Teoprongchu, and the landscape changed dramatically. It's much warmer down in this valley with blooming jacaranda and bananas everywhere. But the highlight is the 15th-century Temple of Fertility. Let me condense this wild and convoluted tale as best I can. It seems a Tibetan superhero came to this region around 1480 along with his overheated libido. That he liked the ladies is an understatement as he managed to have 5000 children, reportedly. He was given the name of the Divine Madman. When he died, he became a deity of Fertility. A Temple of Fertility was erected here,if you'll forgive the pun, after his death and ever since, couples unable to conceive have come to practice rituals which will help them have a baby. The woman, alone, must wear a cloth sling at her back used to carry children, but instead of a child, she carries an enormous wooden phallus and circumambulates the Temple a prescribed number of times. The Temple monk then lets her know if it will be a boy or a girl, and they choose a name. I asked about the success rate and they showed us books with photos of happy couples and bouncing babies as proof. The whole town is penis crazy and you can buy everything from penis tea towels to key chains to model airplanes with a penis nose.

    Ironically enough, our next stop was at a Buddhist nunnery notable for its incomparable 360 degree view. The interiors of these shrines are indescribable but unfortunately one cannot take photos.

    Finally we descended further to the lovely town of Punakha which is much warmer than Thimphu. We are in a charming hotel along the banks of the river and will be here two nights with more hiking tomorrow.---gearing up for the more challenging Tiger's Nest hike on Sunday!

    In the meantime, "om mane padme hom" as we say in Bhutan.    Read more

  • Laos, Bhutan & NE India
    Words of wisdom
    Panorama from temple towerKhamsuhm Yuelley Temple in background22 old guys at templeStupas at templeSetting up the momos!School of Golden MansourFortress exteriorAdmin building in fortressFortress annex2Scary bridge

    Hikes,Momos,Forts, and Legends

    May 2 in Bhutan ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    Another hike started our hearts racing again today, beginning at the trailhead past a chain suspension bridge and then proceeding through rice, wheat,and chili pepper terraces. A steep climb rewarded our efforts with the Khamsuhm Yuelley Namgyal temple complex with panoramic views of the mountains, river,and valley.

    We later had a lovely picnic lunch featuring momos (Himalayan dumplings which can be perked up with chili paste) next to the river where we witnessed a solemn procession of monks headed to scatter the ashes of a deceased local.

    Our next stop was the fantastic Punakho Fortress complex built in 1620 at a time when this was Bhutan's capital. It's a combination government building and temple compound and was truly amazing, framed by rows of blooming jacaranda. Crossing the bridge to the fortress, we were lucky to see a school of the rare Golden Mansour fish (up to 6 ft) in the waters below us. They now allow international sport fishermen to catch and then release, but one has to wonder why anyone would want to do this.

    Our last stop was the world's longest suspension bridge (foot traffic only). Since I'm leary of crossing a rocking chain contraption with 50 people, I stayed behind but Kevin took some great pictures.

    Bhutanese have lots of folk tales and our guide has regaled us with, perhaps, too many, but we did drive by a 13th century house which is known as the Romeo and Juliet house and here's the story if anyone's still interested. It seems a young couple from rival families fell in love and this Juliet got pregnant. Romeo didn't know as he was on business in another region. Her family was ashamed and kicked her out of the house, so she wandered through the forest sending telepathic messages ("Romeo, get your butt back here pronto") but he didn't get the messages due to slow telepathic connections in those days. Meanwhile Juliet died of starvation and Romeo arrived just in time for her funeral pyre, at which point he jumped into the flames to be with her forever. Juliet's family was cursed to have one deformed child in each subsequent generation. And locals say that is still the case.

    Enough for today, but thanks to those who've stuck to the end.    Read more

  • Laos, Bhutan & NE India
    2
    1Something for (almost) everyonePrayer wheels en route (turn up audio)First view of Tiger's NestPanorama from halfway cafeKevin with temple in background.2Iconic view, but another 30 minutes to go

    Tiger's Nest Conquered

    May 4 in Bhutan ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    We didn't post yesterday because we were driving most of the time, breaking up the trip with visits to an incense factory, a weaving factory, a tapestry store, and a paper factory. Interesting, but might not register as the highlights of this trip.

    We finally got back to Paro. The hotel here is extremely nice so we rested up for our hike to Tiger's Nest, which happened today.

    The trek up and back was about 10 miles and much of it very steep making it very strenuous at times. There are no roads up the sides of these cliffs so you'd better be prepared for a lot of huffing and puffing. But what a dreamlike experience! The pictures just can't do it justice, and we marveled continuously at some of the most beautiful scenery anywhere in the world.

    Tiger's Nest was built in 1692 to honor holy man Guru Rimpoche and celebrate one of his two wives (he turned her into a tiger). Contrary to so many descriptions, it is not a monastery but a temple. Absolutely fantastic and so far the highlight of the trip! Again, the pictures can only capture a fraction of the experience; no photos in the temple were allowed as before.

    On another note, we learned that the King of Bhutan is planning to build a city the size of Singapore in southern Bhutan near the Indian border. What a horrible idea, and the country will never be the same afterwards, so get over here before the country loses its otherworldly magic.
    We drag our weary limbs to Darjeeling tomorrow but the long hikes are mercifully over.    Read more

  • Laos, Bhutan & NE India
    Darjeeling Steam Train
    History of Darjeeling Steam TrainStoking the fires [turn up audio]And we're off! [turn up audio]Gymkhana loungeGymkhana library turned into dining hallAnother Gymkhana loungeTea tasting in DarjeelingElgin Hotel exteriorSitting rooms at Elgin hotel

    Darjeeling:Trains,Tea,& Faded Raj

    May 6 in India ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    We flew from Bhutan yesterday to Bagdogra, India, yesterday and changed planets in 200 miles. Almost instantly, the vibe changed from mountain serenity to high energy chaos and from 55 to over 90 degrees. A driver then took us on the only road to Darjeeling (with its narrow switchbacks and crazy drivers passing on blind curves) as we ascended 6,000 feet into the Himalayas.

    Darjeeling literally clings to the cliffs, and up here, it's cool with lush greenery and misty clouds. Darjeeling's inhabitants are mostly ethnic Nepalese and speak Nepali, although there's a very small Muslim population (and the minaret loudspeakers blast prayers at 4:45 am).

     Ownership of this area has been contested by the nearby Kingdom of Sikkim, Nepal, India, and, of course, colonial Britain. Tea has long been a chief moneymaker,along with tourism, starting with the 19th century Brits who came to escape the heat of Calcutta/Kolkata and drink buckets of tea. These days, most tourists are Indians from other regions--hardly any foreigners visit because of the difficulty getting here.

    This morning, we took the colonial era narrow gauge steam train down to Ghoum and back which was quite an adventure. In the afternoon, we went on a walking tour with a local guide who showed us heritage buildings from the colonial period . Especially interesting was the Darjeeling Gymkhana, a combination social center/gym/dance hall/gaming room and bar for the upper class English stationed here and their wives. Very posh in its day, as is the Windarmere Hotel from the mid 19th century, and it has housed various celebrities and royal personage as well as many Bollywood superstars. Our nearby hotel, the Elgin, is in a similar faded Raj vein, with elaborate sitting rooms and photos of white men displaying tigers they shot, along with various Cooch Behar maharajas and maharinis outfitted in regal splendor. The Raj era ended abruptly when the British departed in 1947.

    We ended the day sampling tea, which involved an elaborate process of steeping and tasting, and we learned that there's a world of distance between great tea and what more commonly passes for tea back home.

    Tomorrow, we head down that dizzying road to catch our flight to Kolkata. We're preparing ourselves for chaos on steroids.    Read more

  • Laos, Bhutan & NE India
    Avartana menu
    2Best egg ever!Entrance to the MotherhouseMother Teresa's Tomb1Summary of Mother Teresa's workJain celebrationMaking gods and goddessesThousands of garlands made every dayViews of flower marketVictoria is not amused by the heat

    Oh, Calcutta!

    May 8 in India ⋅ ⛅ 84 °F

    We traded chilly Darjeeling for Maximum City Kolkata yesterday. Yes, it's hot, but what a trip! Driving in from the airport on a super-flyover, we were impressed with all the greenery and parks and general orderliness. We're right in the center of the old city with its massive Victorian monuments and cricket fields and modern skyscrapers---not what we imagined! And last evening, we took an Uber through the bustling neon-lit streets, much like Manhattan at night, to a fabulous restaurant, Avartana. A very posh venue with a 9 course Southern Indian fusion menu topped off with an incredible dessert-- an "egg" made of fennel pannacotta substituting for the white, mango puree for the yolk, and all encased in a white chocolate shell. The "egg" then nestled in a spun caramel nest! The price for all 9 courses? $33 US. Wow! No wonder Conde Nast rated this place India's best restaurant in 2024.

    It's Thursday and we took an exhilarating tour of Kolkata, starting with a moving tour of Mother Teresa's headquarters, and then visited a fantastic Jain temple. This religion dates to the 9th century BCE and its vegan adherents will not even eat root vegetables for fear of killing the plant. The most devout Jain men wear no clothes whatsoever. At today's temple, folks were crammed around the main altar, singing and working themselves into a frenzy. Next, we visited an elaborate Krishna temple and then visited an alley where artists create Hindu deities out of mud (which are then painted) for the never-ending festivals. A quick trip around Dalhousie Square revealed ornate Raj buildings, including the post office built over the site of the infamous "Black hole of Calcutta."

    We finished today's tour with a walk through the most incredible flower market I've ever seen and concluded our visit with a brief stop at the Victoria Memorial. It was 100 degrees outside with very high humidity. Time to head back to the comfort of our hotel.

    We're certainly not oblivious to the news coming out of Kashmir and Pakistan and hope both sides can reach a resolution soon, but there are no easy answers on this decades old conflict. We will be leaving for Singapore late at night and then on to SF, so tonight's flight paths are in the opposite direction--one less thing to worry about before our 19-hour trip home.

     As our travels end, we especially want to wish you all peace, joy, and serenity in these troubled times. That's it for now.    Read more

    Trip end
    May 8, 2025
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