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Cruising Donkeys to Greece
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Cruising Donkeys to Greece

Et 401-dagers eventyr av Cruising donkeys Les mer
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  • Reisens start
    16. april 2017
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    Prep time

    16. april 2017, Guernsey ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

    Wow only 2weeks till we move out of our house and the adventure begins. Feels like there is still a lot to do but at least the hole in the boat has been fixed😱. Now just got to convince the cats that they like water. I tried to photograph the cats I have their life jackets but they were less than impressed. They didn't wander off as their back legs don't work when wearing the jackets, no idea why.
    Don't forget the ‘Bon voyage’ party on the 23rd April hope to see you all there.
    Hopefully Blog posts will improve as my competency improves I hope.    Les mer

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    1week to go

    24. april 2017, Guernsey ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Thank you to everyone who came to celebrate our imminent departure on Sunday it was great to see you all. We hope you enjoyed yourselves as much as John and I did. Since many of you apparently thought I was kidding in my last post about the hole, here is a picture of the newly repaired hole. Once the interior is looking habitable I will post pictures so you can see just how tough it will be for us 😉 as we head south. The extended forecast isn't great so we may not be going till 3rd. But I will keep you all updated.Les mer

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    So Close

    28. april 2017, Guernsey ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    Well last day at work over, and don't know when I'll be back in an office, wow what a feeling. 😜
    Now we've got to work on clearing the house, thank goodness we are renting it furnished but still got to clear all the nick nicks and 'stuff' before Monday when the tenants move in, hope they like living here as much as we have.
    Wow we are now on the boat full time, Monday was not the ideal day for moving but today was lovely. Sadly still waiting for kit for the boat including important things like the newly serviced life raft, so won't be off till Sunday now
    Cats are adjusting OK, Cartier has almost left the cabin but Cousteau is roaming around and in piccy is doing a Titanic    Les mer

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    Leaving

    6. mai 2017, Guernsey ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    We are off, feels like we have been waiting around for ages but in reality it’s only been a week and the last of the gear only arrived on Thursday. Sorry to anyone we haven't had time to say goodbye to personally, we will miss you all but not yesterdays weather that was pants.
    So the gear is now aboard, the weather forecast is good and the cats haven't jumped ship so we are off. Au revoir tous le monde.    Les mer

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    Foreign France

    8. mai 2017, Frankrike ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    We have made it, sorry for the delay in posting hope no one was worried about us, but this is France and we arrived on a Sunday afternoon and then Monday was a bank holiday and everywhere was closed so no internet till today. Also more importantly for us no showers till now so a bit pongy but as we're in France I don’t suppose anyone but us noticed. Had our first French meal delicious.
    For any boating types following this, the trip took 7hours from St Sampsons harbour to Paimpol harbour, conditions perfect for us no wind at all which was brill as we didn't want to have to use the sails. Saw dolphins and gannets on the way.
    Sadly both cats were seasick and felt very sorry for themselves, but they appear to have got over it now and are talking to us again. Weather is OK but not brill, lovely sunsets but overcast most of the time. No definite next port yet but perhaps Perros Guirec for a night and then Trebuerden, (not sure about spelling).    Les mer

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    Trebeurden

    11. mai 2017, Frankrike ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Well we are now at our second location further west along the french coast, journey took an uneventful 5 3/4 hours 47Nm, cats still do not enjoy the cruising part of the trip lets hope they get used to it. They are both now asleep being exhausted after using lots of nervous energy, shaking. Cousteau nearly stayed in Paimpol, when we started the engine she jumped ship, lept ashore and hid under a car, it took a couple of Dreamies, (cat treats) to get her out and a bit of manhandling to get her back onboard. Now we know to shut them in before we start up. Its a bit gloomy, there was a shower earlier, but dryish now but mustn't complain after all we are on our holidays.Les mer

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    Roscoff old town photos

    14. mai 2017, Frankrike ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Still heading west, we are now in Roscoff, the trip was windier and therefore lumpier than we had hoped for and poor Cartier was sick again as was I. Tomorrow we hope to go for a walk around the Old Town which is meant to be very pretty.
    Oh yes just for info where is says in the Almanac that YOU MUST get authority to enter the marina as you are crossing commercial traffic that doesn't apply at lunchtime when there is no one there 😉    Les mer

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    Aber wrac'h

    17. mai 2017, Frankrike ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    We made it but it wasn't pleasant long rolling waves and a lot of rain, from what little we could see coast looked to have lots of little islands and bays, but we weren't in the mood to appreciate them. Cats were especially miserable huddled on the to step and well I would have taken a photo but I was too busy being sick over the side, got to hope I get proper sea legs soon.
    We were met at marina entrance and escorted to pontoon. Not long after our arrival other boats from Roscoff arrived but as we are moored miles from facilities we might not get to ask about their trip. We do know that most are headed down the Chanel du Four towards Best whereas we are going up river for a couple of nights first, well that’s the plan anyway. Tomorrow should be better weather so hope to take photos but this the harbour from on board    Les mer

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    L'aber wrac'h still

    19. mai 2017, Frankrike ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    OK so sadly we didn't get to Paluden, we took the dinghy up river a little ways but apparently Take Five is to big for the mooring bouys there. Yesterday we took the dinghy around the bay for a nose around after walking up to the shops for supplies, well mostly for milk so we can keep on drinking tea. Bay is large and as tides are neaps the water isn't disappearing which is good but sadly a lot of the little islands appear to be private though we did visit a few anyway as the shutters were closed on the houses there. I picked some winkles as well which I had later as an appetiser. This brought back lovely memories of my Gran who died almost a year ago as when we were younger she took us, Max, Bryony and I, winkle picking she would then cook them and we would all sit around the kitchen table picking winkles, dunking them in vinegar before eating them, happy times. Today, Friday, we decided to go walking West around the bay, we nearly made it to Aber Benoit before we headed back below are some pics, zoom for a better view of bay and Phare de l'ile Vierge. There is also a picture of the ugliest French house we have seen to date.Les mer

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    Camaret sur mer

    21. mai 2017, Frankrike ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Wow lovely day for 'sailing', we don't obviously actually use the sails but as it is a yacht I suppose that is the correct term. So today we went further west then south then east. From l'aber wrac'h along the coast towards the Le four lighthouse and being as this is JVK, we had to do it on the inside passage, and then south through the channel around point St Matieu, I will add photo. Then we crossed the Gullet of Brest going southeast to Camaret. The cats as you can see are happier but not relaxed about the engine. The final photo is the one I should have taken on way into L'aber wrach, it is of Smiley on the bunker who greets you on your way into port, when we arrived however I was not smiling. 😁Les mer

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    Only 8 lives left

    22. mai 2017, Frankrike ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Well woke up this morning and couldn't find Cousteau, panic, we walked up and down pontoons a couple of times even before breakfast, then standing alongside boat talking to John about what might have happened and I hear a truly pitiful wail from under my feet What the?
    OK so we now know where the cat is, under the pontoon, slats, but not how to get to her. We lay down and looked over the side of the pontoon there were a series of floating black squares on either side with 9inch gaps between them all round. So one of us was going to have to get wet and I wasn't sure the cat had long enough for John to get wetsuit ed booted and gloved so me it was. Water was warmer than expected. I had to get under pontoon into middle gap before I could see her looking very wet and sorry for herself, I squeezed between the slats and the floating black squares. To cut a long story short I bundled her into a bucket, that was squeezed between floating black squares to me, she wasn’t sure that was a good idea but I persuaded her and then she and bucket were again squeezed out and back to John. She was very grubby and wet. John did suggest afterwards that I should have taken waterproof camera with me for rescue but sorry at the time I was a bit too worried about the cat. She appears to be OK now.    Les mer

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    L'Aulne, Port Launay and Chataeulin

    25. mai 2017, Frankrike ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    So we got through the gullet of Brest and cruised up the river Aulne our first night was spent anchored just up river from the naval ships graveyard (1) and down river of the Terenez bridge (2), it was so very peaceful only the birds for company. We had thought we might do a bit of sailing but there was no wind at all.
    The next day, Wednesday I gave JVK’s hair a trim, not the pony tail obviously, then we actually cleaned the outside of the boat in the dinghy pulling ourselves round scrubbing as we went. After half tide up we set off further up river to Guili Glaz Lock where we nearly ran into a diver.
    Let me explain, our book says that if the bottom gates are open you can just go in to the lock and tie up and they were so we started to, but then on the shore we are being told to go to 'babord' so we do and only at last minute does someone add.... 'and wait'. There was a sort of holding quay, apparently there was a problem with the top gates and there was a 'swimming man in the water'. We didn't get him, so after waiting for gates to be fixed and chatting with lock keepers wife we carried on to Port Launay (3+4) but it was soo warm 31c. The town hall where we were supposed to pay our mooring fees was closed so we had a drink at the bar, a short walk and then afternoon nap, while Cousteau explored the quay and ate grass for first time in 3weeks. Quite noisy as next to busy road. Thursday we go to Chataeulin (5) further up river we are now in officially uncharted territory, why did we go? you might be wondering well mostly because there is a hypermarket very close to visitors pontoon, which is actually a bit small for us, so we're against the quay but on other side so fairly quiet, usually there is more going on except this afternoon which we have concluded must be a bit of holiday of some sort as tourist office not open and hypermarket closed at lunchtime, fortunately we had done our shopping in the morning bringing it back in the supermarket trolley, it was so close. Back down river tomorrow but either go early 7:00 or late 19:30 to catch lock and falling tide, probably late as we are getting very lazy, it's still 30c today, too hot for effort activities.    Les mer

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    Brest moulin blanc marina

    27. mai 2017, Frankrike ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Hello back in a marina after 4nights alfresco, had hoped to anchor up the river Elorn but with the spring tide and our draft there was nowhere safe. Never mind nice showers and toilets, ah yes that reminds me we did get keys for the facilities at Chateaulin, the place as I said is lovely it reached 32c on Friday, the temperature doubled overnight. But back to the facilities, due to the vandalism earlier this year the loos at Chateaulin look like this, I haven't seen these in years. Next year there will be a new pontoon and toilets etc. We did do a short walk on Thursday and saw these slate deposits, never seen this sort of thing before, l have attached a couple of river scenes as well. Today Saturday has been a more pleasant temperature and after checking in at the marina we were able to walk to Relecq Kerhuon for a coffee, I needed to do some activity. Tomorrow weather looks good so heading round the Pointe du Raz to Audierne if all goes well.Les mer

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    Guilvinec

    29. mai 2017, Frankrike ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    OK so we did go to Audierne but there was no room so ended up anchored at St Evette just outside. The cruise south across Duarnanez Bay and around the Pointe de Raz was very wet, cold and rough in places. John decided not to wait for the tide so for about 5 min we were only going forward at 1 knot but at least it was forward and not back or sideways. The anchorage was fine but we had picked up a mosquito at some point, so I now have 5 bites to John's one. We decided to move on as weather wasn't great, quite foggy so our planned ride back to the Pointe to see it from the top would have been pointless and probably miserable. Instead we headed across the Audierne Bay but although next to no wind there were rollers and we were taking them beam on urgh, the cats were all over the shop sliding on the deck and seats, they insist on being outside whatever the weather. Well I didn't make it all the way but they did so their sea legs are now officially better than mine. Once we cleared the headland we came into Guilvenic. We were a bit unsure about where to moor up but think we're OK. Cousteau jumped ashore as soon as she decided we were close enough. This is a working fishing port but also has a lovely residential area and beaches. Today from about 4:30 till 6:00 fishing boats were coming in to offload their catches, there were about 30boats in and then off to their moorings, juggling the offloading space, John loved it. Here are some photos but I hope to get better ones. Also Cartier looking cuteLes mer

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    Guilvenic

    30. mai 2017, Frankrike ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    OK so harbour master appeared this morning (Tuesday) , his office was closed up yesterday but we did try, he seemed surprised that we wanted to stay 2 nights, but the place is cute and as weather OK we decided to use today to have a ‘formula midi’ a set menu meal, and then ride to Pointe de Penmarc'h, Phare Eckmuhl, as I hadn't really appreciated it much on the way past yesterday. There are actually 3 lighthouses in a row, also Tuesday is market day. Below is photo looking down and then up the 287 steps. Also photos of the boats offloading their catches sadly it was busier yesterday but we didn't know what was going on then so no cameras. Their main catch is langustines, but there are fish and crabs as well that all go to a daily auction. Wednesday we are hoping to go up the river Odet as close to Pomeril as possible so we can visit a whisky distillery where they use buckwheat so it's a bit different.Les mer

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    River Odet

    31. mai 2017, Frankrike ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    We did make it up the river Odet very pretty and peaceful just the birds for company. We ended up borrowing a mooring last night but didn’t get to see the distillery as it was closed but never mind. After a quick stop at Benodet to re-provision, supermarket was close to marina and short stop overs are free, Cousteau had a bit of a shock after she jumped onto the pontoon, and there were 2 spaniels on the boat opposite looking like they couldn't quite believe their luck. She jumped back on quickly. We then headed East to Concarneau as I had been to the little walled city before and John had not, and it is beautiful also we need to get more water on board, do some washing and use the Internet as hoping to visit Les Isles Glenan next. We did go to walled town today but without cameras so will pop back tomorrow for piccies before we leave, but here are photos from the river Odet.
    Hope all is well with everyone.    Les mer

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    Concarneau

    1. juni 2017, Frankrike ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    This a catch up post as I am going through the trip posts and reorganising so they make more sense ready for making into a book. Concarneau the tourist bit is a small walled town, even smaller than the intra murio part of St Malo, but it is very pretty a bit like Dinan. It is on an island where only a few vehicles are allowed, for supplies etc. The more modern part is also nice with some great cafes with views of the walled town. The Marina is a charter, sailing school base and the night we were there was the last before the charter sailors arrived so the captains and teachers were having a party 🎉 not our quietest night.Les mer

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    Port Tudy on L'ile de Groix

    3. juni 2017, Frankrike ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    OK so sorry no original photos of Concarneau we didn't have time to get back into the walled city so I used some from the Internet, I did manage a 30min jog in the morning, at the moment it is much too hot to run in the evening. Then after showers and securing the cats we headed south towards Les Isles de Glenans, we stopped at the one furthest East, Penfret for lunch and a swim. There seemed to be a lot of armed forces personnel around no idea why. We were planning an overnight but the wind started to make, so headed further East instead and decided to come to Isle de Groix. It's only 30km all the way round the edge, that said we only walked the eastern half, there are cliffs and long sandy beaches, we also came across a shack on the headland. We had planned a supermarket stop on way back but lunch time closure was from 12:30-15:00! Back at the harbour and a classic class yacht race was finishing and both harbours were filling up fast, because of the race we were fore and aft moored in the outer harbour and to make it more interesting there are regular large ro-ro side loading ferries coming in and out, we spent rest of the afternoon watching near misses and collisions. The waves are currently 1-2m so not sure about tomorrow (Sunday) as yet we might still be here the cats are not happy though as they like to have a pontoon to jump to but who knows as we are rafted they might go visiting other boats tonight instead.Les mer

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    L'Orient

    5. juni 2017, Frankrike ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Hello again.
    So we did decide to leave the island while we could, from Port Tudy on Isle de Groix we headed back to the mainland and decided on the old L'Orient port rather than one of the newer marinas. The only problem was that we arrived on a Sunday and whereas we could hear on the radio that the other marina staff were there ours was shut and yes you guessed it Monday the 5th was also a holiday so no showers or internet till now. We left Isle de Groix as the forecast per the harbour office wasn't great and we wanted to find some shelter, thank goodness we did wind has been gusting up to a force 8 the last couple of days and is only due to subside a little tomorrow so we will probably be here till Thursday. On Sunday when we arrived we just wandered around the town but Monday we headed out to one of the Commercial Zones and managed to find a Decathlon, we didn't need anything but the shop was open all day and as the weather was shocking it seemed best to be inside. We did manage to find a tarp that we can easily put over the stern boom to provide a little extra external shade without the need to put up the full canopy. Even the few days that we have had this lovely temperature, well I say lovely it was a bit much really. 30C+ is for me, too much when the temperature just doubles I need a gradual increase to get used to it. Not been a problem with this wind though only about 17C with some intense showers. Yesterday it rained solidly for 4hours, fortunately that was after we got back from the shops. Today we followed a short walking trail around downtown L'Orient then visited the sub marine pens and Flore-S645 (a decommissioned submarine) and the Eric Tabarly Marina. As the wind is going to remain a bit too much for me tomorrow we are planning to go to the market and then take a vedette to Port Louis to look around the Citadelle and walk around town just for a change of scenery. We considered moving the boat but this is the most sheltered marina and we don't want to loose this mooring if the ones at Port Louis aren't as good.
    We met French Customs for the first time this morning but all went very well John was a bit disappointed as they only wanted to see the Ships Registry and our passports, they asked about goods to declare and I said 2 cats and some Gin but they weren't interested. John had all the RYA stuff ready, his radio license and competency certificate, the works but no 'have a nice day' and they were off.
    Yet again we forgot the camera but you must be getting a bit fed up of us by now don't worry will take a few tomorrow.
    As noted above we took a trip to Port Louis it was a quaint place almost an island. We walked the ramparts, well the inside of the surrounding wall at in places about 15foot up, obviously as this is France there were no railings and it definitely wasn't built for your average American. I attach a couple of photo's. There is also a picture of the cats in their new travel den, I think they understand that it makes them more stable, as otherwise they, the cats, roll around in the swell.    Les mer

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    Port Haliguen

    8. juni 2017, Frankrike ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Hello so neither me nor the cats have got our sea legs, although the wind was fairly mild, because of the weather over the last few days there was quite a bit of swell. We made it here in 4.5hours pretty good but without using sails. We really do have to try using them more often but to do this we need 2 people to be fully operational not just one. I did try taking tablets but they didn't work, am going to follow Jess's advice and eat ginger biscuits next time. The port is lovely but big we are a 5min walk from services, I used my pushbike to do the washing. Tomorrow, Friday, we plan to ride around the 'island' we thought about going to Carnac but to quote the person next me 'a rock is a rock and we've seen the pictures now', so we won't be going. John would also like people to know that he went through the inside passage at the north end of Quiberon so please make appreciative nods etc. Next update soonLes mer

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    Gulf of morbihan

    12. juni 2017, Frankrike ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    We found a lovely anchorage and stayed 3nights spent the days working on boat sanding and repainting rust here are pictures. Would have been perfect but we lost Cartier last night, she must have fallen overboard during the night. Although we searched the nearby islands and rowed around we found nothing it’s heart breaking.Les mer

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    Croustey - Still here tough decisions

    15. juni 2017, Frankrike ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    The port although huge and originally only on our list because there is a supermarket close to the marina and after anchoring we were short of provisions. The marina is very quiet and Arzon the area is beautiful, and there is a 'tumulus' on headland, it is three dolmens and a German bunker sort of all covered with stones a bit odd. But back to decisions I am bringing Cousteau home she still hates it when engine is on and stays huddled under bikes even when raining, or if we are anchored there is nothing for her to do except prowl the decks at night. She leaps ashore as soon as possible. She does enjoy it when we are on pontoons but then spends all night either ashore or wondering on pontoons and other boats which not everyone appreciates and after what happened to Cartier I spend the nights listening for splashes so although I will miss her I am taking her home. 🙀 I hope she will be able to readjust and make friends with her new home and people.Les mer

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    Guernsey

    16. juni 2017, Guernsey ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    So I am on Condor who have very generously made an exception and allowed me to bring Cousteau back as a foot passenger, usually all animals have to be in cars, we were working on an alternative, and thanks to all those helping with the arrangements, but this is easier. So I was back on the island for 1 night before returning to St Malo and driving with John back to the boat. I am hoping Cousteau settles in her new home with Jess, Chris and Samson they have some fields next door that she will love. I will miss both her and Cartier but at least I will know she is safer and able to do more cat things. She appears to be settling in well. Though she isn't sure about Samson yet, the cat whose house she is moving into, she has snuggled into Jesse's bed OK.
    I'm heading back to St Malo just hoping John didn't get lost on the drive back up from boat. No we made it. Thank you to everyone helping me to get home and making my short stay as nice as possible in the circumstances. XX    Les mer

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