Bolivia

May 2018 - May 2024
An open-ended adventure by Elaine Read more
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  • Salar de Uyuni

    June 1, 2018 in Bolivia

    We organised the tour of the Salar de Uyuni (Salt Flats) in San Pedro de Atacama. We were picked up by a mini bus from our hostel at 7am and drove to the Chilean/Bolivian border which was an hour away. After getting our thirteenth passport stamp of this trip we met our guides for the trip Johnathan and Alfonso. There were eleven of us on the trip so we were split between two 4X4 Toyota Landcruisers. Johnathan was our driven and he spoke a small bit of English. The tour was a three day two night tour ending in Uyuni. On the first day we visited a couple of Lagoons; green lagoon, blue lagoon, white lagoon and the red lagoon. The red lagoon had loads of flamingos walking around in it so made some scenic pictures. The highlight of the first day though was the hot springs. We were freezing cold due to the bitter wind and altitude so when we arrived at the hot springs everyone was delighted to be able to warm up for a little bit. That evening we stayed in a small community home in the desert and were fed a delicious three course meal by the family of the house. There was no heat in the house so we were each given a bed with four duvets on them and a sleeping bag. Unfortunately due to the high altitude and the extreme cold we all had problems breathing that night which made for a very restless cold night.

    Nevertheless the following morning we were all up bright and early to travel further along the tour in our 4x4. We drove mainly through the desert today and learned about the multiple volcanos helped form the colourful rocks in the desert. We stopped at the Arbol del Piedra which is a volcanic rock that appears like a tree statue. That night we stayed in a salt hotel. The foundations of the hotel was made from concrete however the walls, tables, seat and beds were made from salt. It was quite interesting walking around the hostel with salt as all the decoration.

    The following morning we got up at five am to drive to the salt flats in order to watch the sunrise. There had been a small bit of rain the night before so the surface water helped form a stunning reflection of the rising sun. It was still very cold watching the sunrise however it was very scenic. We then headed to an island in the middle of the salt flats which contains hundreds of cactus plants. It was very strange walking around this island looking out onto the sea of salt that extended to the horizon in all directions. We learned that the salt flats was initially the sea in the Pacific Ocean however as the volcanos developed they blocked the flow of water out to the ocean. This water then evaporated leaving behind the salt falts. This salt flats is the largest in the world and the salt is sold within Bolivia for dinner after it has been cleaned.

    After breakfast we got to create the famous pictures on the slat flats. Johnathan got very excited about this part of the tour and was very creative with our photo poses. It was actually quite fun being part of the photo shoot especially when we got to see the end results of the photos and videos. As we headed to Uyuni the final stop was to a train cemetery where the first trains that used to transport minerals and goods from Bolivia to Chile and Argentina now remain. We took some fun photos in the trains and on the old railway lines before saying goodbye to Johnathan and Alfonso after a brilliant tour.
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  • Potosi

    June 4, 2018 in Bolivia ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    While traveling through South America we were told that Bolivia is the real authentic South America and Potosi was the first place we agreed with this statement. We stayed in Potosi mainly to chill after a busy few days on the Salt Flats Tour however it was certainly a place that I actually really loved. We found out that Bolivian people are very relaxed as none of the restaurants opened on Monday for breakfast until after 11:30. Therefore we sat in the main plaza watching the Bolivian people go about their day. We admired the beautiful attire and dresses that the Bolivian women wore and watched in amaze as they carried their children or a pile of food from the market in a shawl wrapped around their back.

    Potosi is a mining town and we decided to go on a tour of this mine which was organised by our hostel. We were given over-clothes, helmet with a light and wellington boots before driving to the mine on the outskirts of the town. On the way we stopped at a small market and were told to buy a present for the miners. We were given a bag containing 98% alcohol, dinomite and cocoa leaves. During the tour we learned that the miners chew on the cocoa leaves to help reduce hungry and tiredness, the 98% alcohol is used the rinse their mouths from all the dirt in the mine and the dinomite is used to blow holes in the mine. It was an odd tour. In one sense it was good to see how the majority of Bolivians work and how a mine runs. However it was horrible seeing the dry dusty and dirty conditions that they work in and the methods that they use to reduce tiredness and hunger. It's easy to see why the life expectancy of these workers are quite low.
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  • Sucre

    June 8, 2018 in Bolivia ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    La Paz is often named as the capital of Bolivia however in reality the capital is Sucre. This is the main thing that I learned during a walking tour of Sucre. Bolivia has four main government departments but three of them are in La Paz including the President's house however Sucre remains as the Capital. It is also a World Heritage Site as it is known as the "White City of South America" since all of the buildings are painted white within city. We walked through the market learning about different fruit and meat that are sold in the large market area. We saw the weaving art that indigenous Bolivian people created and learned about the history of the independence war when the Spanish were finally driven out of Bolivia. The final stop on the tour was to watch the sunsetting over the beautiful city. The tour was actually one of the best walking tours that we have done on our travels not only because of the interesting history of the city or due to the stunning white buildings but also because our tour guide Louis was very enthusiastic about the city he grew up in so made the tour more fun.

    Sucre is also famous for it's chocolate so of course we had to try some. Chocolate Para Ti is the most famous company and I can reveal that their chocolate tasted delicious. We even tried Quinoa chocolate and that tasted great too. Hopefully we can find this chocolate again in other cities along our trip.

    Soccer is the main sport in South America and we hoped to attend a match somewhere along our trip so when we found out from our hostel that their would be a match on during our stay in Sucre we were delighted. We couldn't find any information about this match on the internet so we didn't think that it would be big however when we arrived at the stadium their was thousands of people queuing for tickets. Luckily we managed to buy four tickets (€3 each) and after more queuing we got into the stadium just in time to watch the teams walk out on the pitch. We didn't even know who was playing or who was favourites but we decided to support the reds since we were sitting in their area of the stadium. We learned later that the reds were Wilstermann from Cochabamba while the yellows were The Strongest from La Paz. The supporters of both teams never stopped jumping around and chanting for the full ninety minutes of the game it was funny listening to them trying to be louder than the other supporters. We may have also took part in the chanting even though we didn't know exactly what they were saying as it was all in Spanish but we picked up some words that we knew. It is worth noting that selling alcohol at soccer games in South America is illegal so all of these supporters were sober but they still chanted during the whole game. The match itself wasn't too bad as it ended up 2:2 and three of the goals were scored in the goal we were closest to which was a bonus. After ninety minutes we thought the game was over and were ready to go home however none of the supporters were leaving and we soon realised that the game wasn't over. However instead of extra time it went to penilities which took place in our goal end. I got renewed energy as I have never been to a match with penilities so it was exciting. Unfortunately the penilities were shocking and it took nine penilities from each time to finally decide a winner. Our team the reds (Wilstermann) eventually won so we jumped around as though we were die-hard fans but as Eadaoin put it "Laois don't win much so I'm not used winning anything". We then realised that it was the final of the La Liga de Futbol Profesional Boliviano so Wilstermann lifted the trophy and we laughed about how we managed to go to a soccer game without realising it was a final until the end and our team won. It was the best excitement I think I've ever had at any soccer game. We may start following Bolivian soccer games from now on.
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  • La Paz

    June 12, 2018 in Bolivia ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    After arriving from Sucre on an overnight bus we needed to stretch our legs so did a walking tour of the city with Red Cap Tour Group. The tour started beside the prison which is a working prison but it also used to be a tourist attraction as well. Prisoners used to do a tour of the prison for tourists and tourists could also stay the night in the prison with prisoners too. However as you can imagine this wasn't the safest place for tourists and some tourists were not allowed out of the prison the following day unless they paid the officers hundreds of dollars. Eventually after multiple incidents of this the Government banned tourist tours of the prison. Today it is still used as a prison for prisoners and their families to stay in. We also walked through the witch markets where we heard about the givings they offer to their God, Pacha Mama, when trying to gain better health and wealth. Finally we ended at Saint Francis Church which was the first Catholic church that the Spanish built in Boliva however while we were there there was a large protest against the government for their education programmes. We later heard that the Bolivians don't like their president anymore as he fixed the last election to be able to stay on for his third term at office instead of the maximum two terms. Our guide suspects that when the next elections come round next year if the current president runs and wins again then there will be a civil war in the country.

    We found out that Red Cap Tour Groups also had a food tour of La Paz so we decided to do this tour as well the following day. We drank a corn based drinks in the market and sampled two of their six hundred types of potatoes (not as nice as the Irish Spuds but not too bad). After seven different courses we ended at an international restaurant to eat apple crumble and custard. It was delicious to have food from home however I wish the tour had more market-style Bolivian food to sample.

    The following day while Rob was biking; Una, Eadaoin and I had a girl's day out. We used the cable cars to reach a region on the outskirt of the city: El Alto. La Paz city is in a valley and they are unable to have a metro service as there is too many rivers in the area that could fluid the tunnels. Therefore they built cable cars to reach the towns higher up the mountain side. We learned that to drive to El Alto from the city centre it takes over one hour however by using the cable cars now it only takes ten minutes. This has helped to expand the El Alto community. Now there is the largest outdoor market in South America in El Alto. We walked around the market finding a wide variety of products for sale including food, clothing, electronics and craft work. The market was so big that we didn't get to walk it all before we headed back to the city.

    The next day was the dreaded day to cycle down Death Road with Barracuda. We were picked up at 7:30 and drove to the top of Death Road. This drive was supposed to only take one hour however there was snow on the top of the mountain so the Police had closed the road until the snow had melted. We waited in a queue of cars and trucks to see how long the snow would take to melt. [We found out afterwards that the day before only company cycled Death Road as there was too much snow. This company finished the cycle however they got caught in the snow on the way back to La Paz which resulted in them having to sleep on the van for the night]. Eventually the Police opened the road and let all of the trucks and vans through. At 13:30 we started cycling on the main road first to get used to the bikes and changing gears.

    When we reached the start of Death Road we got a briefing about how we need to be careful on the road and where the tricky parts of the road are. They warned us about on average two cyclists die every year while cycling this road. That was a bit of a shock as we didn't want to be added to this death list. At the start Rob was up at the front with the guide speeding down the mountain while the rest of us took our time at the start. The road itself was a gravel road with some large rocks in the middle after some landslides of the mountain. These large rocks were the hardest things to avoid. Part of the road had a barrier protecting from the drop off the side of the road however most parts didn't so we had to be really careful that we didn't skid over the side of the road and drop off the side of the mountain. We stopped quite regularly to take a break and take photos. Death Road is 24km long and it is amazing how vans can drive down the road as parts of the road is very narrow. Eventually we got into the swing of it as we got used to the bikes and the road and flew down the mountain. It was so much fun as we didn't have to cycle that much just pull the breaks to slow us down as the road as down hill. I didn't anticipate it to be as fun. When we finally arrived at the end everyone gave a cheer as we hadn't added to the Death Road death list. We finally arrived back to La Paz at 22:30 with sore arms and hands from holding the breaks for so long but we survived which was the main thing.
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