Bilbao

Day 9
Short walk, couple of hours. Bilbao is lovely on approach from the hills, and lovely still on arrival! We found a Mass in process in the vastly ornate church dedicated to 'Our Lady of Begoñia' (who?!) on the hill into the city, and I really really wanted to participate, so I just did. It was moving to be able to understand the 'happening', despite not understanding the language, due to the familiar form of Catholic liturgy. I experienced it as a belonging, and a being-at-home. Best of all was the end as I was leaving, when a little old lady whose face was full of light and joy reached out to me and said 'Santiago?', and just kissed my hand. I suppose I represent something to her about loving and following God, and it gave me happy-poignant inexplicable tears. A Camino 'moment'.

There is something about a small city set about a wide river that just feels good, right, homely and professional at the same time. A bit like Basel (where I lived for 6 years in the 90s). A great atmosphere throughout the day, even before the buzzing night life erupts; many locals of all ages contributing to the energy, as well as enough British hen parties to fill a barn.
The cathedral is very special architecturally, an unusual shape, and with attractive stonework, but the guided tour made my brain cloud over like the sky this morning, so I skipped most of it before (so to speak) the rain could spoil anything. The market hall is fabulous (oh dear, I'm recycling all the same words to describe my positive experiences) with meat and fish and fruit stalls. Oh, and the cafes with their pastry/cake/pintxos on offer. Sweet and savoury art on a plate! The offer is far beyond your typical British produce, in both range and quality. Really impressive.
Thai massage ... oh my goodness what a treat after over 150km of walking.

Joy ... "beside me, on my left and on my right" ... I look aslant every now and then, to see what I can see. And pause to listen to what's singing in the trees (Eurasian wrens! Eurasian blackcaps! (I have a birdsong app!)). And let the friendship of Heike and the kindness of strangers touch my heart. That's good. That's really very good.Læs mere