Monday 9th February, Maxwell Hill

Monday morning saw me calling up the Maxwell Hill/ Bukit Larut office once again, having ascertained that it IS possible to be transported up the hill by jeep, the steep 10km, but now only if you have booked a room in one of the 'banglos' (bungalows). This time I was fortunate to have someone on the blower that could both understand English and speak comprehensibly to my ears, AND was keen to help. If we were at the office by 1130am we could have the ride up, with our luggage, and be left there until the next morning; take your own food and towels, but a kitchen is provided. We dashed into a supermarket (always an eye-boggling experience in a new country) and packed our rucsacs to carry just what we needed for a night.
It was the steepest and most windy road ever, turning and turning and turning up and up to the '6mile' location, as one man called it, where the first banglos, built by the colonialists 150 years ago with associated workers' cottages, are situated. Forest on either side, trees and plants I didn't recognise except perhaps 'fern' or 'palm', with fronds anywhere between small (as UK) to gigantinormous, way over our heads. Often no view because of the depth of forestation, but glimpses yes of the vast plain below.
There are several banglos adjacent to each other at this first location, all of which have at least partly been restored sufficiently to be occupied, and the outbuildings nearby made available as toilet-shower block in one case - for visitors, and for the workmen who are currently actively strimming and repairing/painting - or worker cottages. Simple but well cared for, both in and out. Gas ring with a couple of large pans, a kettle, a few mugs, plastic plates and a few pieces of cutlery; unfancy and sufficient. Bedrooms and a bathroom. No aircon, no curtains, just about right. We walked up as far as possible, another couple of miles in total, mostly along these narrow tarmac roads but also through forest tracks close to the top. All the banglos have colonial and malay names; I am using the British names because these would have been familiar in the 1930s: The Nest, Treacher Bungalow, Watson's Rest House, Federal Bungalow, The Hut (which included a cafe), The Cottage, and The Box.Read more