Suances

Day 15
Plodded rather today, realising that tiredness doesn't trump hopes, intentions, plans, but does change how I experience them.
Some special pleasures along the way: bumping into the ItaliansWeiterlesen
Day 15
Plodded rather today, realising that tiredness doesn't trump hopes, intentions, plans, but does change how I experience them.
Some special pleasures along the way: bumping into the Italians again, Fiorella and Sergio (they took the train after a night in Santander and so caught up), so we walked together for an hour or two. They are great fun. Nuts, I think it's called. Probably not literally translatable! I said to Fiorella at the start that I was feeling fragile: “il mio cuore comincia a svuoltarsi” and in the saying of it realized it's the right expression, though it took me by surprise.
Discovering I understand loads of Spanish, gradually getting my ear and my brain in trim. Hooray hooray! But I had to laugh: when trying to use speech translation to understand the menu, it seems I was being offered baby squid stuffed with kangaroos. Didn't bother to find out what it take was though, because I don't like squid in any case. My accent needs improving, that's for sure.
Arriving at my Big Treat For Today: Santa Ana Casa Rurale, an actual hotel! A little off route, but I love the name and isn't that enough reason to choose it? So nice to have private space again after 2 weeks of sharing rooms with 1 other or with 10 or 20. I ate a proper lunchtime meal, slept, painted and wrote and meditated ... and had chocolate cake and read fairy tales in Spanish before bed. Great way to learn.
Good day, almost all alone. Lovely.Weiterlesen
Wanted to reflect on the shift I experienced yesterday, after Güemes. It started so happily. Walking off alone but caught up by the four youngsters who loved my flute-ing, and fell into conversation with Fabio (Italy, Torino/ Nottingham PhD in atom physics/ San Sebastian, daughter Gaia), Daniel (Stuttgart/ grief over unborn child). I separated off when they took a long break to chat with an old friend; French older man (the translator in the pic) talked about Camino starting points in France and the Gîte/food experiences.
Glorious cliffs above thundering waves.
Long, long beach! Rain! Dry with my umbrella, and absolutely content, singing. Childhood songs. Glad that I live, am I. Morning has broken. Antonio, Antonio!
Lois, 30 today.
Boat to Santander, lovely Belgian couple with trolley for breathing apparatus.
Cathedral.
Soup.
I'm loved. Hold my heart open, holding courage to not shut down again. Luca. 31 years.
Tears. Thankyou, strong tree.
Valle verde de Peña. Rockface ... hard, yet crevices permit flowers to grow, and it feels like mutual gratitude. I support you, you adorn me. Sweet.
KyeSoo trudges past, we leapfrog each other; no chat, but our shared smiles encourage me.
Lonnnnng last section ... rather unfriendly reception. Nice rooms, only 5 beds. Stumbled on a step.
Video call with Luca. My husband. He's lonely at weekends. Yeah. I'm glad.
A bit bleak until the French trio comes in and it's all gladness.
Why didn't Jacques offer me wine?!
Pierre, in the dorm: "what does pilgrimage means to you?". He smiles at the question. “C’est spirituel, et c’est le moment present”. Talked little but both sensed the longing and searching as well as the not-like-most-people experience.
Some under-the-duvet tears, and sleep.Weiterlesen
Day 14
Feeling a bit sick. Beautiful day, very very tired.
Let it be what it is... Early bed
ReisenderGlad you've had a good day despite the exhaustion. Hope you sleep well and have an easier day tomorrow, Anna.
Day 13
A hot hot day for the first time, a proper swelter.
The hostel is AWESOME. A long-standing community of/for pilgrims, initiated by Ernesto who now at 86 likes to reminisce (ramble) to the visitors, in Spanish, before dinner; tonight over 50 of us. A real highlight of the trip, unforgettable. It's a 'Donativo' , which means it's free but they invite contributions, of course, and by it's worth a lot more than many commercial offers . A shared meal with wine, loud chatter in lots of languages, a lively, warm buzz ... just like it should be. Reminds me of summer youth camps, and church weeks away. A really happy place. This is how the world should be!Weiterlesen
ReisenderSounds wonderful. Rosemary and Sylvia enjoyed looking at your photos today and both enjoyed the Bluebell Cafe today.
Day 12
Great fun with the French trio; we walked together all the way here, over the hills and down to the beach. At one point I lagged behind to take my fleece off, and as the path was at the side of the A road I decided to get my little fife out and have another go at playing as I walk. (I found playing in the forest too disturbing to the environment). The breathing is hard!
They were apparently completely delighted with me: they stopped, waited, got their phones out and filmed me as I passed! So we continued together the rest of the way, singing and whistling tunes and them letting me in to their in-jokes, all in French don't you know, great fun, great fun.
A hot sun but cold wind on the wide wide beach. Didn't swim. Lazy time, because I wanted to stay at the convent hostel and join in the Mass and Pilgrims' Blessing. Very moving, no particular reason, just something real and raw and poignant for me.
Dunno what's happening in me except that I know that to be here doing this is simple and good. I used to ask “where are you?”, but now it's perhaps “let me stop a moment to see you here”.
The painting is lagging behind, which I'm disappointed about; but it's what is, so there's no point in fussing.Weiterlesen
Day 11
Long long day, too many impressions to note now. Decided to do the Big Hike, up the mountain instead of along the coastal shortcut; and was alone all day. It was glorious. Glorious. GLORIOUS.
Lemon tree by the water fountain in Otañes; I took one to suck on and its sour-sweet made me feel really bright, buzzing, just 'yes!'.
Santullan: stopped for a drink and bite at a bar, got chatting with a local who had studied in the US, met and married a Japanese lady there, two adult children now, etc etc, English teacher ... when I went to pay my bill I found he had already taken care of it!
The woodland after Cerdigo, suddenly wild and rough after hours of made up paths, suddenly pretty, and intriguing, a distinctly ancient feel - tingling, almost - after hours of new towns and buildings and streets; suddenly right at the ocean, vast and really really alive. Perfect, perfect.
What is this? Might this be joy?
Courage to continue, Anna! Welcomed at the hostel with homemade soup and meat and fruit, with only 3 others, French, Jacques Joël, Bernard. For whom I had to translate.
I'm really tired. 39km. Longest ever walk in a day.Weiterlesen
ReisenderReally enjoying catching up with what you’re up to each day. Sleep well
Day 10
Up and out shortly after 7, the city empty and the air mild with the promise of a clear day. Off I go, alone for the first time, excited, and yes, I notice I'm a little nervous. Not of the road or the distance, not of being on my own or the threat of others, but the bed question: if you want to sleep in the public albergues you have to arrive before the last bed gets nabbed by someone else! They don't take bookings. But on the plus side it's dead cheap, either by fixed charge or 'donativo'. You should give apparently something like €10.
Took the east side of the river, a shorter route and all on the flat, so that I would have the strength to go beyond the official stage today (Portugalete) and get to the albergue in Pobeña. I hopped onto the tree-lined grassy verges when I could, so as to avoid constant asphalt; 13 km of riverside industry this side of the river, and then 11km of towns and bypass bridges was a heck of a lot of man-made underfoot. But I enjoyed the views, all of them! Dilapidation and new-build, snazzy-ed up or merely functional, the route was well waymarked and varied. Vast shipbuilding areas made me feel like a midget!
Nipped across from the east to the west side on the ferry, legged it up the steep hillside of Portugalete, took an 'alternative Camino' path so as to find food and drink, stumbled across some (mad?) women (or just happy/excited/hair-down/having fun: it seemed to be a hen-event-cum-pub-crawl for the friends of the mother of the girl getting married, where the fiancée herself sat looking bored to one side)("mother-hen" party?) dancing to a Mexican band, so I joined them, of course, (and accepted a glass of cerveza - just because they offered) ("the Camino provides", they say, and I'm absolutely prepared to let it); found 'rosy garlic' in the hedgerow, so pretty, later found myself walking alongside Andreas from Köln so we finished today's increasingly rural and pretty route together. Back at the seaside!
And I got a bed! Alongside Anna-Maria from Switzerland, with a worryingly bad knee, and Elizabeth from Mannheim whose Camino partner was forced to abandon the trip with bad health so is continuing (nervously) alone. And 20 others, or so.
For me, all is well.
Here there are others from Mexico, Peru, Ireland, Holland, France, Portugal, Spain, Germany... Isn't it great?!Weiterlesen
Day 9
Short walk, couple of hours. Bilbao is lovely on approach from the hills, and lovely still on arrival! We found a Mass in process in the vastly ornate church dedicated to 'Our Lady of Begoñia' (who?!) on the hill into the city, and I really really wanted to participate, so I just did. It was moving to be able to understand the 'happening', despite not understanding the language, due to the familiar form of Catholic liturgy. I experienced it as a belonging, and a being-at-home. Best of all was the end as I was leaving, when a little old lady whose face was full of light and joy reached out to me and said 'Santiago?', and just kissed my hand. I suppose I represent something to her about loving and following God, and it gave me happy-poignant inexplicable tears. A Camino 'moment'.
There is something about a small city set about a wide river that just feels good, right, homely and professional at the same time. A bit like Basel (where I lived for 6 years in the 90s). A great atmosphere throughout the day, even before the buzzing night life erupts; many locals of all ages contributing to the energy, as well as enough British hen parties to fill a barn.
The cathedral is very special architecturally, an unusual shape, and with attractive stonework, but the guided tour made my brain cloud over like the sky this morning, so I skipped most of it before (so to speak) the rain could spoil anything. The market hall is fabulous (oh dear, I'm recycling all the same words to describe my positive experiences) with meat and fish and fruit stalls. Oh, and the cafes with their pastry/cake/pintxos on offer. Sweet and savoury art on a plate! The offer is far beyond your typical British produce, in both range and quality. Really impressive.
Thai massage ... oh my goodness what a treat after over 150km of walking.
Joy ... "beside me, on my left and on my right" ... I look aslant every now and then, to see what I can see. And pause to listen to what's singing in the trees (Eurasian wrens! Eurasian blackcaps! (I have a birdsong app!)). And let the friendship of Heike and the kindness of strangers touch my heart. That's good. That's really very good.Weiterlesen
ReisenderI love reading your words. They are so easy to read. I feel I’m there in the street with you. Keep walking and keep writing my expressive friend. 🩵
Day 8
Philosophical reflection warning!
Wondering about joy.
Perhaps joy is after all there for the seeking and the seeing, or the letting be, the receiving ... is there a choice to be made in my attitude? In openness to what is (around me, and inside me) (which may not be at all the same as what I wish it would be), or in readiness to accept who and what presents itself to my (rather little) field of attention?
It becomes apparent that there probably is a choice.
I have a lifelong tendency to melancholy. What if I were to not (/no longer) let this define me, but instead just let it be there, alongside, say, this joy I wonder about; both holding hands, even, and walking together along the way?
I come back to two words - attention and intention - which have become important to me in my spiritual practice in recent years.
It helped me today to stop occasionally in order to pay attention to something in particular - the silence, the birdsong, a fern, a stream, the mother pony with her twin foals, the local woman and man in conversation, a farmhouse, a fellow walker. And to let the loveliness of whatever it was touch me. There is in fact so much loveliness!
A couple of days ago I wrote about not feeling anything much apart from frustration at not feeling much. In this period, then, let me hold this intention: to practice giving things a bit more of a chance to enter into my awareness, and in that way give joy some space to enter in as well.
I wish for this, to be sure. Verdaderamente, as says my father.
Came across our first goodie table today, such as seen in the movies about the Camino! The lady was obviously looking out for passing trade, and hauled her laden table out to the front of her drive whenever someone approached. Such a delicious 'chocolate caliente', and a tiny pintxos of quince membrillo on top of local cheese with walnuts. It's fabulous when people chatter away unselfconsciously in Spanish and without regard to my understanding! Best way to learn.
Some of the route goes through forests in, erm, active management; that is to say where there are men chainsawing branches and heavy machinery dragging bare trunks up the footpaths, creating ugly deep trenches of slippery mud. Just glad it wasn't raining heavily today.Weiterlesen
Day 7
What a beautiful day! Perfect walking temperature, neither hot nor cold, and constantly changing but always always always pleasant, awe-inspiring, delightful, superb landscape, up and down hills, along the river, through villages, beside churches, through forests, and in and out of cafes!
Nearly 30km/19miles, no great effort. My favourite day so far.
I had thought to not post today, apart from the footprint, but somehow I'm feeling brighter and more at ease today and I'm inclined to make at least these few comments.
Perhaps this has to do with the conversations and friendships of the day. With Heike, in any case, thanks Heike, just doing these days together. And with Adrian, from Ireland/ France, who gave me the gift of a real conversation today; what an unusual - but somehow familiar - chap. Very direct with his questions: "What stops you drowning? Find your joy, it's in your story; tell your joy, that's how you find it! ... I have hope for you”.
Kyesoo called me his angel, after I helped him book accommodation for tonight when he thought there was nothing available for miles.
Igor, Poland, and Luca from Belgium, sent 'happy birthday' to Nico!
George, again, and of course 'our' Italians, Fiorella and Sergio, who we seem to be leapfrogging every day. Great fun.Weiterlesen
anna-being-annaFor the first week I'm walking with my Swiss friend Heike, we are sharing a room in booked accommodation. After that I'll be alone, and using the public hostels. But there are other pilgrims doing the same route and we keep seeing each other as the days go by, overtaking each other on the path or having a coffee or a beer at cafes among the way.
ReisenderThat sounds lovely. Hopefully you will make some new friends along the way.
ReisenderJust catching up with you and your walk, lovely photos! Glad to hear you had some treats yesterday. Love the videos. Can u get a video of you playing your ‘mini flute’ (can’t remember what you called it!) ? Bon Courage et buen peregrinaje Anna!