Japan 2023

9月 2023
Donnettaによる14日間のアドベンチャー もっと詳しく
  • 34足跡
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  • 14日間
  • 411写真
  • 47動画
  • 20.1千キロ
  • 12.2千キロ
  • 日7

    Stepping Back in Time: Tsumago

    2023年9月23日, 日本 ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    We said goodbye to Matsumoto with a breakfast of locally made soba noodles and tempura. Stella prefers her noodles less slippery and struck again at the pastry section of the buffet, pilfering more jam packets for ... well.... later.

    We boarded the morning train to Nakatsugawa, and after missing the connecting bus, took the world's most honest taxi, to Magome. (Noah can tell you the story of the travelling Airbuds: spoiler alert, they were safely returned after being ejected by his Big Boys).

    Magome is a formal postal town that served travellers on the major route between Tokyo and Kyoto during the feudal ages. The town is built on either side of a paved street that weaves up a very steep hill. Poor Paul was carrying our luggage like an absolute beast. I guess life's randomness is what he trains for after all. Thank goodness cos I could barely drag myself up the hill! The tourist information centre was at the top for reasons I still can't understand. This this is where we were leaving our bags to be forwarded on to tonights destination, as we spent the next three hours walking the trail to Tsumago.

    After the number of kilometres we have already walked to date, the 7.5km didn't sound too bad. All in a days work for team Blackford. I mean, I had to retire a pair of shoes already due to stitching coming away.

    Alan our trip planner, described the walk as gentle. Yeah. Nah. We didn't consider it gentle and after 50 mins walking uphill in the searing heat, Alan's popularity was starting to diminish. As the walk progressed however, we entered leafy green forests complete with babbling streams and surprise waterfalls, on the whole, it was a bit like the Bibblumum here at home. Except we don't need to periodically ring bells to scare the drop bears at home. Perhaps they are there to motivate the tourists not to linger, so perhaps that's why it only took us 2.5 hours to get to Tsumago!

    Tsumago was magic; this little village was frozen in time; only open to pedestrians during the day, with hidden power lines and displays of traditional homes from the Edo era. It was a truly immersive experience of what life would have been like decades ago. Time went so fast, just enough to snavel a few souvenirs, our luggage and a quick bite of rice balls and favoured ice.

    24,000 steps, one manic bus ride and three trains later, we arrived at 9pm into Hiroshima. The hotel is well, something. There are knights guarding the entrance of the "Grand Intelligent Hotel" (not a typo. I thought it was International too 😆) plus an oversized plushie in the foyer, which sat at odds against their attempt at opulence. We were thoroughly confused but too tired to care past celebrating the arrival of the rest of our luggage.

    When we walked into our room, initially we thought we had to share two doubles, until we found folded-up mattresses in the cupboard called 'futons'. Paul and I will attempt to share a bed, Stella the other, whilst Noah volunteered to take the floor with the two wafer-thin futons stacked together. The bathroom is set up like the Onsen washing area, where you sit down to shower in front of a mirror. Sitting is good. Sleeping is even better.

    Working the new kettle (which looks like a Dalek) and scoffing more weird snacks rounds out day seven. Tomorrow Noah is absolutely hanging for a skate on his new board, Stella is keen to op-shop and I'm going to try and find a laundromat (as the hotel doesn't wash on a bloody Sunday). 🙄

    Step count to date: 83,000
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  • 日8

    Hiroshima, Here We Come

    2023年9月24日, 日本 ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    We needed the sleep-in today and set intentions of getting our washing sorted, a quick skate and some op-shopping.

    Luck was on our side because not 100m from our hotel was an English-speaking 'Wash and Fold' that could deliver to our hotel. I swear the clouds parted and angels started singing because I thought it would mean spending hours in a coin laundry. We encouraged them to do an industrial wash, using fire if necessary, to which they laughed. Not sure if things got lost in translation, but I'm sure the $60 we paid them is not nearly enough for the job they have ahead. 🤢

    Unburdened of lugging around our washing, we went to brunch at a cafe that I picked off a tourist map (simply because it was near a river and I wanted the view). Well. What a find! Like most places in Hiroshima, they specialise in oysters and OMG 🤤🤤🤤 everything was next-level delicious. I can't cope. I'll never be the same. I'm forming a new religion in its honour. 🙌 (Even as I edit this post-holiday, it was still the best meal we had all trip)

    Next was op-shopping. Stella found some great buys in the cleanest smelling, most organised second-hand shop called 2nd Street. She's been wearing said skirt purchase ever since; it's so fire!

    (I know, I know, be cool mum, don't make a big deal. Not as if it's the first skirt shes worn in recent memory AND she bought two !🕺) Internally, I was screaming as loud as the fanboys at the random female pop troop 😅 Noah was embarrassed for his species. I must confess, it was a bit cringe, but each to their own.

    Hiroshima's shops were so great and we would have loved to spend more time there but Noah was fanging to break in his board, so in the interests of time, we taxied to his skate park.

    Under the duress of waiting for him, we explored a cool little bakery with Earl Grey tea slices and coffee pecan muffins. Agh, well, if we must, it would be rude not to. The bakers went to all this trouble to make these tiny, delicious cakes.

    The purchasing process is the same as all the other bakeries. You grab a tiny basket and using a fresh pair of tongs, gently place the pastries into the basket from the self-serve displays, then the servers then wrap each one in plastic and put it in a paper bag 😬.

    Totally wouldn't work in Australia. Our uncouth lot would be fondling the buns like..... ok, I'll keep it PG... with our grubby little mitts. Stella and I learnt the hard way, after getting shouted down by a zealous shop owner back in Matusomoto when we didn't use the tongs.

    We quickly worked out that the Japanese are big on hygiene. You place the money into a tray, and they return it on the tray. The first day I didn't realise and handed cash directly to the staff member, and I swear it looked like I handed them a dead cat. Lesson learnt.

    Anyway!

    Treats were consumed and a very hot skater boy retrieved before we were off to the train station because we had sake mysteries to solve. The Hiroshima A-Dome will have to wait until tomorrow.
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  • 日8

    The Fine Art of Sake Brewing

    2023年9月24日, 日本 ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    We caught a 40-minute train to the little town of Saijo, the sake brewing capital of Japan, thanks in no small part to its access to pristine spring water. This place is steeped in tradition, and it was lovely to explore the quiet streets.

    We were lucky to meet a fluent English-speaking brewery owner. Their multi-award-winning brewery is one of the oldest in the region, dating back to 1904. Their original head brewer was so renowned that a brewing school was established to ensure more brewers could learn from him.

    Did you know that due to the complexity of its brewing, Sake was only served to those in aristocracy 400 years ago?

    The whole sake brewing process is more complex than wine. We were lucky that the owner offered to take us through to have a look, as tours don't run for the public, and especially not to walk-ins on a Sunday afternoon. I get the sense the owner picked up on my enthusiasm for learning about the process, firing off lots of questions. I couldn't get many photos, but I was thrilled to see the behind-the-scenes of an original sake brewery. I guess the good vibes in no small part due to the consumption of said sake 🥴 🍶 again for science, keeping up the good work.

    More coffee and ice cream were had. The non-melting biscuit cones were delicious and milk-flavoured ice cream is now my new favourite. I know it sounds obvious as ice cream is made of milk, but it was next level!

    We wandered back to the train station, pointing out the red brewery stacks as we went. We were keen to get back on time for the cooking class tonight. as Alan impressed upon us the importance of not being tardy. Here goes nothing!
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  • 日8

    Cooking Okonominyaki

    2023年9月24日, 日本 ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    We've been on the hunt for okonominyaki since we arrived here as Paul's mate Casper said it was a must. Despite enquiring at every eating house we had been at to date, we had had no success. Until we walked up to the venue where our cooking class was being held, and what did we discover we were cooking. You wouldn't read about it.

    Just look at his face! We were cooking Okonomiyaki!

    Alan, you're a wizard.

    As we learnt during the night, Hiroshima and Osaka are THE places to try okonomiyaki but they have different styles. In Osaka, all the ingredients are added into the pancake as it cooks (like an omelette) whereas in Hiroshima, it is assembled progressively in layers (like a lasagne).

    You'll be pleased to know we got there 15 mins early, washed up, obligatory photos and they tried not to tsk-tsk a the tardy Aussie couple that showed up 10 mins late.

    The cooking class was heaps of fun. Its pretty straightforward to do, just with lots of steps. You fry the pancake, add cabbage, onion, tempura and pork belly strips, and flip it! Then when it's cooked, you move it to the side off the hot spot of the grill whilst you cook the noodles separately into a pancake shape. Next, scoop up the cabbage with your flippers and layer onto the noodle pancake. Then finally, you crack an egg, scramble it a bit to create a little pancake, then lift the previous pile onto it, finishing with a final flip. Add sauce and toppings, then tuck in.

    We were chatting away with a couple from Sydney, swapping stories about how much we love Japan. Seems like our experiences have been similar and we all agreed that our favourite part of Japan was the people. Universally respectful, kind and peaceful. Gee, it's going to be a shock coming home.

    With super full tummies, it was a gentle nighttime walk back to our hotel, watching the glittering city as we crossed the river. Our beautifully folded washing was waiting in the hotel foyer, neatly wrapped in plastic bundles within our case. A little envelope contained all the contents of our pockets, including money; I just fell in love with Japan a little bit more then and there.

    After unpacking and repacking our two-day bags, the main cases loaded with sake are being forwarded to Tokyo. Tomorrow, we aim to visit the Hiroshima landmarks before catching the ferry to the Rokyu island.

    Step count; 98,000 to date.
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  • 日9

    A-Bomb Memorial

    2023年9月25日, 日本 ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Determined to see the memorial, we set off early after checking out, waving to the knights and forwarding our luggage to Tokyo.

    About 20 minutes up the road, we gave up trying to hail a taxi and stopped for breakfast at Starbucks instead. It was upstairs in a multi-story building so as we ascended the numerous flights of stairs, the usual apprehension of whether it was *actually* a cafe started to kick in. Akihabara really did a number on us. Thankfully, it was Starbucks, and as a double bonus, it was open despite most shops opening at 10 or 11 am.

    After recharging and mooching some Wi-Fi, we legged the rest of the way and wandered through Peace Park, ground zero for where the bomb was dropped in 1945.

    The original building remains a closely guarded memorial at the front of Peace Park. The beautifully manicured parks and gardens pay respects to those who died and the enduring spirit of the Hiroshima people.

    The Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum, however, was next level.
    Beautifully laid out with panoramic floor-to-ceiling murals, the first room depicted a 180 view of the city before the bomb was dropped. In the next room, a similar format, however, the murals depicting the exact same vista post-bombing. The juxtaposition was so powerful, but the journey was just getting started.

    Room after dimly lit room, we wove through backlit displays that built upon the narrative through numerous personal stories and recounts of events from survivors, told through text, drawings, photos and exhibits of torn clothing, twisted metal and personal items.

    Each item or story was beautifully and respectfully presented with full credit to the museum curators. Despite the fact we were shoulder-to-shoulder with hundreds of people, packed into a relatively small space, there was an air of quiet reverence punctuated by quiet sobs.

    I was in tears, it was gut-wrenching. Photos of burnt babies, peoples faces burnt beyond recognition, people fleeing with burnt skin hanging from their bodies, mother's found perished sheltering children. The radiation affected those who rushed to find loved ones in the rubble, those who volunteered to provide aid and those who were lucky enough to survive the initial blast. Many died horribly days later from radiation sickness or, if they survived, 5-10 years later from cancer.

    A city levelled. 140 000 people died. Multiple generations were affected.
    No words, really.

    We all took the time to read the displays and connect with the stories, Noah most of all. Having only just completed an assignment for school on the Hiroshima bombing a few weeks ago, seeing the narrative through the eyes of survivors really hit differently for him.

    Emerging into the bright light of day, we all stood with wet eyes overlooking the memorial constructed in honour of those who died. The museum we stood in was constructed only 10 years after the bombing; it was one of the first buildings prioritised in Japan's economic recovery to underline their commitment to returning to their roots of kindness, efficiency and peace. The taxi driver who later took us to the train station told us that since the bombing, Japanese people have regained pride in these values and placed kindness and peace above all else.

    These values are definitely what we have experienced so far; it's just such a shame it took the atrocities of war on both sides to reach it.
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  • 日9

    Ryokan in Miyajima

    2023年9月25日, 日本 ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    We dove into the arms of the sushi train to comfort eat the emotional sucker punch that was Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum.

    Are there any differences with an Australian sushi train? Well, yes and no.
    The setup is the same but with a few minor differences. There is a hot water tap in front of patrons for their tea (yeah, I was prepared this time); there is no sushi on the train, just pictures that you grab and show the chefs; and they use a handheld device that scans your stack of plates to calculate your bill. There is no need to sort them into colour-coded piles, so where is the fun in that? Sigh. Japanese efficiency, though, is pretty cool.

    Noah and I shared oyster nigari (because that's what Hiroshima does best) and local red miso soup from the region, which Noah rated as his favourite thus far.

    After the obligatory snack top-up at 7-Eleven, we reserved tomorrow's remaining train tickets (like absolute-boss commuters) and ferried to Miyajima, a little island off the coast akin to Rottnest, just with deer instead of quokkas.

    As we arrived, you could see the massive red O-Torii gates standing in the sea. The gate marks the entrance to the floating Itsukushima Shrine (first built in the 12th century to protect seafarers and the Imperial family) and functions as a border between the mundane and religious, encouraging the individual to transcend into that sacred space.

    After checking in, we wandered down the narrow streets filled with traditional dwellings (much like Tsumago), some bustling with a marketplace vibe of new foods, touristy gift shops and a few very cool niche stores. Built over the water, The Itsukushima Shrine was peaceful to walk through, the sun setting behind the Gate making it a popular selfie spot. The kids took a moment to sit down, legs dangling over the edge to chat and laugh, no doubt at their mum's obsession with taking photos. Paul and I took a moment to offer a donation and pray at the shrine; the energy was really different there. It is difficult to explain but peaceful and expansive, a great meditative space.

    We wandered past monks handwriting blessings for tourists; we sought ours out using what I call the rattle sticks. To receive your fortune, you donate and then pray as you shake the box of sticks. One pops out with a number corresponding to a draw containing your reading.

    If it's good news, receive it humbly. If it's not so good news, you tie the message to a wall of cords, and the monks will pray over it at their next prayer session. 💖

    The walk back through the quiet streets at twilight was my favourite part of the day. Painted lanterns adorned each doorway, each uniquely painted to symbolise the dwelling. The narrow streets wove up and down through a town that breathed a sigh of relief as the last tourists boarded the ferry. We had the place to ourselves and it was magic!

    We had fun pointing out the local deer just chilling in doorways. These Nihonjika ("Japanese deer") were considered messengers of the Gods and therefore fed and respected by the locals. They now use a fear campaign because the kids were more skittish than curious; at one point, they exclaimed in retreat, "It's got horns. It's gonna go us!". The deer, on the other hand, is entirely unmoved. Smart media campaign Bambi, who is your manager? 😜

    We arrived just in time for dinner, so regrettably, we didn't don our kimono PJs and slippers. It was fantastic, though, my goodness! Dinner consisted of a five-course degustation where you cook part of your meal in the broth on the table. The courses kept coming, much to Paul's delight and I found it exciting to try and work out what we were eating. Poor StellaB bravely tried everything but handed over her sashimi whilst Noah quickly snavelled her Miso. It's tough being a parent sometimes.

    Our traditional Ryokan room is, well, sparse. The room is empty save for a table and seats on the floor. You look around and think, "Where do we sleep?" Our futons, pillows, doonas and linen were all folded in the cupboard, so it's a bit like camping but inside.

    I'm trying to keep my chin up as the room (including the hotel hallways) has a strong, musty urine smell. It's a worry when there's a half-used bottle of Febreze in the entryway like the hotel has just capitulated. The floor is made of matting, even in the toilet. I live with two fellas, so I get what they are working with. But come on, the mattresses have the same smell, too. 😵‍💫😩

    Paul's positive attitude is contagious, chalking it up to a unique experience. Although he did have a chuckle when comparing the photos from the website to that of our room, it was like ordering something from Wish 😅🥴

    We finished the night sitting cross-legged around the table, enjoying green tea and Alan's surprise Gelato buffet💗. The view out the window of twinkling lights and the boys in kimonos is just magic. 😁❤️ Life is still great. Just one more quick spray.....
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  • 日10

    Leaving Miyajima

    2023年9月26日, 日本 ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    We had a surprisingly sound sleep. I attribute mine to the Shoucho (a liquor similar to sake) that I affectionately called my Choo-Choo Juice.

    We mobilised to breakfast, albeit Monkey and I were moving like the walking dead 🧟🧟 and making similar noises.

    Breakfast was a multi-course adventure similar to last night with a little cooker on the left to cook our tofu. The main differences were a little grill to our right to grill our fish and much to everyone's relief, a single course. We were all still full from dinner and Gelato!

    Stella and I handed off our poached egg soup to Dad, who said it slipped right down. Noah chugged it also like a champ but was filled with instant regret. Some familiar foods, some not so. Again it's an adventure of "mmmm, what the frick was that?" 😆

    After we checked out, it was off to do a quick bit of shopping and find some momiji manju (the region's local waffle-shaped delicacy) before boarding the ferry back to the mainland.

    So long Miyajima, the island of the gods. 🙌

    Travel day today as we are onto Kyoto via bullet train. 🍶🥢

    We've noticed that we are a lot more relaxed regarding transport having got a feel for what's what.

    We're currently sitting on the first of two bullet trains to Kyoto. If you have a look on the map , we are backtracking inland now, meandering back towards Tokyo over the next few days.

    Allan's red itinerary (aka the travel Bible) has been an absolute godsend. There's no way we could have seen as much as we have without such meticulous, clear planning. 😊👍
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  • 日10

    Oh Kyoto, We're So Tired

    2023年9月26日, 日本 ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Honey. I think we broke the kids.

    We stumbled into our lovely hotel, thrilled to find beds; however, grumbling tummies drove us up and out to find lunch.

    Of course, sushi is where we landed, although Noah, by his own admission, is starting to get over the whole "fish and rice" thing. We were all dragging our feet, disappointed that we didn't pack our bathers in our day bags (the hotel has a pool), and we couldn't find any to buy that would accommodate.

    A spot of opportunistic op-shopping lifted the mood enough to convince the kids to quickly look at the Fushimi Inari Shrine, home of the thousand o-torii gates. At Fushimi, Inari people started donating funds to construct torii gates along the paths from the main shrine's buildings to the top of Mount Inari, to bless their businesses.

    It was so very hectic. Think music festival, shoulder-to-shoulder busy. The sheer volume of people you need to navigate through is one of the aspects of urban Japan that is a downside. People move respectfully and patiently, although it's a massive fray on your senses. And the poor kids were so cooked. 🥺 Noah tripped over a traffic cone, Stella had retreated into her headphones and even I had to admit, as surreal as it was, the 'Tism got the better of us. So, after a few photos and a short walk, we were hailing a taxi back to our cool, quiet hotel. Realising when we got back here, you can rent swimsuits. Double doh.

    Noah didn't move once he kicked off his shoes and collapsed on the bed, and Stella was too tired to swim. Heck, even Paul was too tired to sauna. So, the scheduled Geisha hunt is replaced with room service, a long bath and tucking into a good book.

    Tomorrow, we are forgoing a castle viewing to sleep in and swim in the pool before checking out.

    Steps to date: 126,000 (approx 98-100km)
    The distance from Yallingup to Australind.
    Holy shit. No wonder we are knackered.
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  • 日11

    Trains, Stairs and Bamboo.

    2023年9月27日, 日本 ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    In my opinion, Kyoto set the record for the most amount of stairs and that's saying something, given Japan's building density and perchance for stairs in general.

    Today, we have been mooching around the Kyoto train station, the second largest in the country with 14 floors, a vast 10-story department store complete with skydining and 365 city views.

    We got lost twice trying to find our stowed luggage and departure lines. I'm surprised it was only twice!

    The Great Stairs (or massive staircase you can see in the photo) usually illuminate at night, so we didn't see them lit up, but a quick peek online and I can see their appeal. Visually. Paul and the kids climbed them, you know, for fun. I took the escalator like a sane person.

    With time to kill until our bullet train to Tokyo, we wandered out to the Bamboo Groves via the local line. It was a scorching day so teenage enthusiasm was low after standing on a packed train for 20 mins then walking shoulder to shoulder down crowded streets for another 20 mins. Absolutely fair. They've been quietly obliging to all our sightseeing; its been a frantic few weeks. I couldn't be prouder of how quickly they offer their seats to strangers and take care of each other.

    I'm a bit more sore today, so the walk was slow. That said, I was never tempted to jump into one of those tourist carts or human-powered tuk-tuks. The 'drivers' had to be so fit! Lugging significantly sized tourists up and down steep inclines whilst pleasantly calling out, "excuse me". I was embarrassed for those tourists. What a way to earn a living 🥴.

    Anyway. Bamboo grove in itself? Immersive and I loved it. You could easily get lost in there for hours, although we didn't linger as the kids had no more sightseeing left. Back at the station, I got lost in the homewares section (cue much exclaiming on how cute everything was) whilst PieFace soothed the wait for the bullet train to take us back to where it all began. 🚆
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  • 日11

    Odaiba and Robot Hotels

    2023年9月27日, 日本 ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    After a 2.5 hr bullet and a subway train, we were back to Tokyo and checking into our automated Henna hotel (the name literally translates to Strange Hotel!). It was a bit strange and underwhelming to be honest as I was hoping for actual robots but the rooms were clean and air conditioned and most importantly, separate! So we were all happy.

    After some Freshness Burger goodness, Paulie and I grabbed some whisky and sat in the cool, surprisingly serene rooftop sitting area. For the middle of Toyko, it was pretty quiet; no honking horns or locals yelling. Plus the Sky Tree was a kaleidoscope of beautiful colours. Mesmerising.

    The next day we started with a mixed buffet at the hotel, then shopping locally and around Odaiba, Japan's man-made island in Tokyo Bay. The island has an interesting history; it originated as a set of small man-made forte islands in the late Edo period (1603-1868) to protect Tokyo from marine attacks. In the 1980s, a massive landfill created the island which now functions as a popular shopping and entertainment district.

    The kids wanted to shop and skate so this is what we did!

    Stell found some sweet bargains at her new favourite chain 2nd Street and Noah found half-price Halfcab shoes. Just as well, because his only pair had walked north of 100km by now and were literally falling apart!

    A late lunch at Diver food court of delicious pork tataki and we were onto Teamlabs fora few hours before returning to DiverCity. We wanted to see a few landmarks, including the giant automated robot statue of Gundam lit up and moved to music to celebrate its 40th year.

    Noah popped up to the top floor of the shopping centre for a cheeky skate, then after running up and down rainbow stairs, we walked over to look at the mini Statue of Liberty; a monument in honour of France, placed in such a way in front of the Rainbow Bridge, so it looks to scale.

    The night was clear, bright and the whole feeling was safe and and fun. Its a great final memory to hold of Tokyo.
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