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Japan 2023
  • Donnetta Blackford

Japan 2023

A 14-day adventure by Donnetta Read more
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  • Trip start
    September 17, 2023
  • Donnetta BlackfordJapan 2023Traveler

    Corridor Camping

    September 18, 2023 in Malaysia ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Our connecting flight was delayed 6 hours. :( Now to kill time until 0410hrs. Those benches look pretty comfortable behind a crew dismantling a Chanel display. Noise? What noise? Noah slept right through that AND the gate transfer.Read more

  • Donnetta BlackfordJapan 2023Traveler

    The Emu has Landed

    September 18, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    Thank goodness for extra legroom on the second leg; we were all well an truly over travelling by now. Shrimp and rice for the first breakfast set the tone for things to come, although I slept through the second breakfast which was the first and last pie we'd have for a while.

    The headrest displays showed a view from the bottom of the plane so you could watch the landscape, which was pretty cool. The movies were average, but the kids had the right idea by downloading episodes onto their phones before boarding; impressively organised!

    Narita Airport was predictably busy, but there were so many helpful staff milling around, telling you where to go. Our transfer driver was so pleasant and patient with our weary brains; guiding us to the Currency Exchange and then to his van. He was at least 75 years old, a tiny little fella who moved so nimbly and loaded up all our luggage despite Paul's offers of help. Super impressive. Delirious with 24 hours of travel, we couldn't remember his name as we settled into the cool van complete with water and moist towelettes. It sounded like Pikachu, but not quite. I know, I know. Our cultural sensitivity could be better.    Read more

  • Donnetta BlackfordJapan 2023Traveler

    Not a Capsule Hotel. Close though!

    September 18, 2023 in Japan ⋅ 🌬 29 °C

    An hour to central Tokyo in a cool car with water was so nice. Watching the countryside evolve into a concrete jungle was a treat. Tokyo is enormous; there are so many apartment buildings and at times, like the Sims and not entirely real. Freeways have these curved walls for noise proofing, just thinking about building costs, must go into 100s of millions, although given the proximity of accomodation to freeways, it makes sense. Multistory apartment complexes went on and on and on in all directions. Roads are well signposted in English which I found pleasantly surprising but moreso, drivers are really respectful. For the density of traffic it flows really well, even though there lots of cyclists sharing the road (without helmets no less).

    The hotel is cosy 😆. I think the airplane toilets are larger as the boys barely fit under the shower rose, but bidets are everywhere so it feels like home. Noah says the beds are harder than the benches at the airport and he's not wrong, but we are all too tired to care and grateful to lay flat to sleep, despite weird, coarse lumps in our pillows. I think its rice!?

    Thankfully there was a delish sushi place just around the corner from our hotel. The fish was so fresh and tasted amazing!! Our Japanese is rather average and the locals have this wry smile when we give it a go, but I sense they appreciate us trying.

    A weird snack pillage of the local 711 rounded off the day.    Read more

  • Donnetta BlackfordJapan 2023Traveler

    Asakura Temples

    September 19, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    First on the agenda today was Sensoji Temple of Mercy located right in the heart of Asakura, a few suburbs up from our hotel. After our first Japanese breakfast of fish, rice and condiments-we-struggled-to-identify, we headed out and caught the subway. It was a bit of a baptism of fire working out the ticket machines and finding our way onto the right train but it was all part of the adventure.

    At the temple, Stella received a fortuitous message, and after watching and learning from others, we offered a donation, clapped, bowed and had a quick word with Buddha at the temples main shrine.

    The weather was pretty warm compared to the jumper and long pants weather we came from in Oz, so Noah was on a mission to try all the weird beverages from the vending machines. #stayhydrated

    After grabbing what we thought was mochi but ended up with a fried version that, not going to lie, was pretty delicious, we're off to sort out bullet train tickets for tomorrow at the deport in a neighbouring suburb. Rapidly becoming public transport pros as we try and cram three days worth of sightseeing into two.    Read more

  • Donnetta BlackfordJapan 2023Traveler
    12scramble crossing2Where Paulie can always be foundSixth floor of Tower Records22The trains are so long and clean2

    Scrambling in Shibuya

    September 19, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    We were on our way to the next temple but first things first, sushi for lunch!

    The restaurant had a plastic, life-sized version of the chef welcoming us in the doorway, and we quickly worked out that it was seafood only. My little heart skipped for joy whilst poor Stella bravely tried to find something she could relate to, stumbling across her new favourite thing ever; tempura! A few new words were learned as we navigated ordering and paying. Another few trains later, and we were in Shibuya.

    The scramble (or multi-directional pedestrian) crossing in Shibuya is the largest and most famous in Tokyo, with up to 3000 crossing at any time. We found it twice; once by accident and once after getting lost looking for it because we didn't realise we'd already found it. It was impressive to see the flow of people like currents in the ocean, moving quickly and efficiently; all very on-brand for Japan.

    Adult tantrums due to ambiguous Google maps and sore feet were narrowly avoided. The sheer volume of people, heat and getting lost several times started getting to us. Google Translate and various unsuspecting locals came in clutch; we haven't met anyone less than friendly.

    Unfortunately, the Statue of Hachikō was under redevelopment at the time; I blame that on us getting lost as we were looking out for it as a landmark. It's definitely the dog's fault.... yup, definitely.

    As we wandered up towards our next temple, we came across Tower Records, a six-story record store. The top floor had vintage LPs and CDs of Western music with an entire section for Tori Amos! 😱 #Imdead!! A few essential items were purchased here, whilst across the road, screaming fangirls cheered for a small boy band playing in the window of a store.

    A few km up the road, Noah found a cool new deck in a skate store that did not look like a skate store, but the owner was very chill, and Noah was keen to support the little guy. As the deck stuck out of his backpack, Noah unwittingly whacked poor old father with it as we bunny-hopped from one Starbucks to the next, exploiting the familiar menu, aircon and free WIFI. Iced oat lattes are the new black, although it was then we realised the day was getting away from us.    Read more

  • Donnetta BlackfordJapan 2023Traveler
    12

    A Hidden Oasis: Meiji Shrine

    September 19, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Realising we lost an hour operating on Perth time, we had to hoof the 8 km to get to Meiji Shrine before it closed. Thank goodness we were all caffeinated because it was a power walk for the ages, albeit a beautiful one as part of the journey was through Yoyogi Park, Tokyo's equivalent of Kings Park.

    Within minutes, we were transported from the visual assault that was Shibuya to an oasis akin to rural Japan. It was totally surreal to go from walking shoulder to shoulder with thousands of others to gravel crunching underfoot in leafy tree-lined paths. We really wanted to slow down and take it all in, but there was no time. Stairs were climbed two at a time, photos were taken on the hop and vending machines were pillaged at top speed.

    With a literal minute to spare, we and this cute little shuffling old dude (going top speed at 0.5km an hour) slipped past the guard as he was putting up the closing gates at the temple's entrance. Inside, the mood was serene as we were transported back to a different era. We browsed past the Wishes Board full of traveller's prayers and paid our respects at the shrine. Photos of the shrine are forbidden and they take this very seriously. A guy holding a sign had to politely insert it in front of tourists' camera lenses despite the fact it was impossible to miss. It made us cross to see people deliberately disrespecting Japanese culture; I mean, it wasn't a big ask.

    Wishing we could stay just a few more minutes, we were ushered out to enjoy the 3km walk to the park exit. Wandering out, dreaming of burgers, Noah's feet definitely did not hurt. I mean, he may have mentioned it a few times, but at 19,000 + steps, most of them bloody stairs, I reckon he has good cause to want a little lie-down. Thankfully, the subway station greeted us as we emerged from the park's serenity, and after jumping a few subway trains, we emerged back in our new home suburb for Freshness Burgers (Japan's leading burger chain).

    Noah's rating of his sip of Dad's Asahi was "aghhhhhhhhh". I think we all made similar noises as we crawled into bed that night.    Read more

  • Donnetta BlackfordJapan 2023Traveler
    The "department store" sign.
    There were literally eight floors of these machines!Sure, let's grab a drink....Hmmmm. ...So much suss....It got weirderIts a trap Noah...

    Madness of Akihabara

    September 20, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    So after another fish and rice breakfast tray, we headed out to adventure through Akihabara, the tech district of Tokyo.

    Visually, it lived up to the hype, although it was mostly geared towards anime, which all looks the same to me (shush, Noah, I know what you're thinking; I'm not racist).

    The tone was set when we entered a multi-story tech block, which looked innocuous enough, only to find out it had a certain 'adult slant'. The anime sign out the front held some clues, which we narrowly avoided before pivoting in the doorway... nope, nope, nope. Not child-friendly!

    The trend continued as we tried to find the Stella Cafe on the eighth floor of an anime games building. We began to suspect from the sus game posters lining the stairwell and dark curtains covering the doorways on the fourth and fifth floors that the Stella Cafe was not as innocent as it seemed. We should have listened to our hunch. One hundred steps up, one hundred steps down and 100% trust destroyed for anything above three floors in Japan.

    But we had fun banging drums on level four of a multistory claw machine store. The kids tried their luck at the games to win some sus-looking dolls to no avail, so we bailed for a cold drink/coffee at a ground-floor cafe and regrouped. I was eyeing Travelator sushi as Noah said he missed Gracie, which gave me an idea.    Read more

  • Donnetta BlackfordJapan 2023Traveler
    I can pull that face too pooddles

    Purrfect Pitstop

    September 20, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

    So as a panacea for all the visual noise and smut of Akihabara, we took a chance and checked out a Cat Cafe.

    It's strictly time-limited, but you get a free drink and unlimited pats of the indifferent fluffy staff members. Poor Paulie was such a champ, given his allergies. It was a little quiet oasis that filled our cups and stoked the entrepreneurial fires of "yeah, why don't we open a cafe like this at home?"

    We then headed off on an adventure for more shopping through the markets and scored some cute overalls and silver-tabbed jeans for the kids. These huge markets stretch out in all directions as trains clatter and bang overhead. We saw our first few glimpses of fruit at the market stands. It is interesting that fruits are not more ubiquitous given the healthy eating culture here. We wondered about that as we caught the train direct to Sumo.    Read more

  • Donnetta BlackfordJapan 2023Traveler

    Sumo!

    September 20, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    We made it to watch the last few hours of Sumo. It's a massive stadium with a tiny dirt arena with mats for seating for the immediate ring-side seating.

    Each round involves up to four minutes of preparation before the Sumo's knuckles hit the floor and it's on! When they clash, there's this almighty SLAP! The crowd goes from reverence to loud cheering like an AFL sports match.

    A quick Google explains that a lot of skill is involved. The sumos move surprisingly well for such large lads, and it's only sometimes the big guys win. As you can see in this video, Big Red (or so I called him) had his momentum used against him by his opponent.

    What was especially cute was that after the event, imagine a sea of umbrellas exiting the grounds. Everyone had brought an umbrella except us tourists. The rain was the equivalent of a mist and a welcome reprieve from the heat, so we didn't care. Still, as we entered the orderly crowd of people, without us needing to ask, people of all ages lifted up their umbrellas to shield us from the rain.

    It's one of many examples of politeness and kindness we've seen here. It's almost a pleasure to commute as everyone respects their environment, themselves and others.

    💗    Read more

  • Donnetta BlackfordJapan 2023Traveler
    Breakfast
    Street meatSushi train.Cake heavenNoah's commiseration cake for failing to win Cam a weird jap toy in the claw gameNoah was chuffed he found a bargain modelcar "ha ha tokyo". but then sadness .... it was only partRamen LordRaaaaammmen.

    Tokyo Food Adventures

    September 20, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Here's a day on our plate.

    Breakfast is a concoction of traditional Japanese foods, we had fun learning what they are thanks to our waiter and Google translate. I'm rating them. So fun and fermented.

    There are vending machines at least every 100ms. I'm not exaggerating. Down back alleys, main streets, subways... everywhere! The drinks are cheap and the boys have nearly made their way through most of them. Turns out Boss Coffee is Japanese?!

    On the topic of drinks, the tea is POWDERED. It's the tea version of International Roast, but as gross as that sounds (sorry mum), is pretty nice. Where we had lunch, there's an uncovered hot water tap right on the bench in front of you for the sole purpose of making your tea (or burning your arm). Paulie also had a go at some street meat. Verified fricken delicious by Noah. I'll be verifying tomorrow 😅

    Then, we had our first proper ramen experience. The chef makes the noodles by hand and cooks them right before dropping them into your bowl. There are two types of broth, then you grab your tempura things and boom! Omg. Delicious. Like a big warm hug for your belly.

    Then our evening ritual is to call into 711 to buy some random weird snacks to review; suffice it to say, there are some weird flavour combos!    Read more

  • Donnetta BlackfordJapan 2023Traveler
    Shoulder to shoulder
    So polite and orderly. Stand to the left on the escalator unless overtaking

    Faster than a Speeding Bullet

    September 21, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    We hit the ground running early and said goodbye to the shoebox that was Hotel Belmont. After 35,000 steps in 48 hours, our feet looked forward to the bullet train commute to Matsumoto.

    Navigating Shinjuku station was something. With approximately 3.5 million people passing through it daily, Shinjuku Station holds the Guinness World Record as the world’s busiest train station.

    I know. It was hectic but so well signposted and the lines colour-coded that we found our way to our station with time to spare.

    Unfortunately, we didn't realise the cryptic receipts issued yesterday for the bullet train held our seating numbers. They were on their way to Hiroshima in our other luggage. We had no clue which of the 300 seats were ours. So for the next 2.5 hours, we played musical chairs up and down the train as free seats came up with Noah hobo-ing it between carriages with major main character energy.

    The trains are so clean and deluxe, with charging points and reclining seats, so it was a shame we couldn't relax enough to enjoy it, although as we disembarked, we vowed to reissue our seats from tomorrow!    Read more

  • Donnetta BlackfordJapan 2023Traveler
    Little squid all lined up... aww2Potato salad and coffee jelly with some marinated lettuce wtfSo many random antique stores.. musty big super coolLooking towards the mountainsFor nannyHuuuuge

    Matsumoto

    September 21, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Thankfully, our hotel was only a few blocks from the train station, so after checking in and dropping our luggage at the hotel, we left in search of lunch. As per Noah's request, Macca's was our first stop because one had to investigate the difference, you know, for science. Monkey reviewed the Samurai burger and a mystery Hot Pocket; we are still unsure about the ingredients, but that was mainly the point. Stella played it safe with some fries, however hot off a veritable feast of ramen the night before, the parents had noodles on their, well, noodle. Thankfully, what we needed was just across the road. Deliciousness abounded, including various new unknowns such as a Japanese potato salad and coffee jelly. Stella had fallen in love with tempura and Noah miso soup, so this was obviously added on. Paulie is still trying to find okonomiyaki, a savoury pancake that is simply to die for. We'll just have to keep eating at new places to determine if this is indeed true. 'Tis a thankless task...

    With full tummies, we wandered up to the Matsumoto Castle, stopping off at random shops along the way. Squabbling hit an all-time high between the siblings, with Mum and Dad rethinking their life choices (or whether the castle still had a functioning dungeon).    Read more

  • Donnetta BlackfordJapan 2023Traveler
    Top floor!Shoe lockers at hotel entrance3

    Not Takeshi's Castle

    September 21, 2023 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 24 °C

    With the weather cooling down, we enjoyed exploring a 400-year-old castle in Matsumoto. It was immersive, with seven wooden floors connected by steep, cramped staircases (some at 61 degrees!). Lots of memorabilia with the history of how Muscats were developed and Samurai armour functioned.

    In the war room on the top floor, we were rewarded with 360-degree views of the mountains. The space needed to have unparalleled visibility of the terrain for strategising. I found this, along with other tactical elements of the build, fascinating, including slits in the walls for muscats to fire from and gaps between the floor and wall to drop rocks on enemies scaling the wall.

    I'll never know how they did that in Samurai armour; I could barely scale the steep stairs in shorts and a T-shirt!

    One vending machine raid and 10,000 steps later, we were back at our new posh hotel. We dutifully removed shoes at the entrance (Mum would approve) and tucked them in shoe lockers.

    Upstairs, the rooms are cute with indirect lighting, welcome jellies and powdered teas! The shower cubicles are still small, but this one has a seat and adjustable rose. The kids were thrilled we had separate rooms; my anxiety took a moment to talk down, but then I remembered we were in Japan. After flopping on the bed, none of us moved until pizza cravings drove us out into the humid rain. A short walk and a flight of stairs saw us holed up in a tiny pizzeria called Beans. Yes, Beans; we don't get it either. However, a sweet, older couple delivered surprisingly good pizzas, and we watched Multiverse and played hangman until 7-Eleven sirened us with weird snack energy for dessert.

    Back at the hotel, a soggy team Blackford dripped all over the foyer, mobilising hotel staff to magically appear with towels and unspoken eye-rolling. 'Bloody tourists, where is your umbrella?!' We are now dressed in Kimono PJs and slippers, ready for our Onsen saunas and soaks later. When I say we, I mean it's us adults so as not to emotionally damage our offspring with our nudity.

    PS. I did it! How liberating! 😆👏    Read more

  • Donnetta BlackfordJapan 2023Traveler
    Yum.
    Bloody yum.yum.Yuk. too squishy in middleIts proteinIn honour of Oma. YumOk.Yeah but mehOk. if clinkers had a baby with a chocolate biscuit.Meh. a wafer plus nuts with strawberry chocolate coating mehSo soft!As advertised! I'm suspiciousNo jokes guys. this dubious syrup is Stella's new favourite lifted itemSoftest thickest slices.Too tough and flavourless

    Weird Snacks

    September 21, 2023 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 22 °C

    Each night, we hit up a 7-Eleven for weird snacks. Can't buy the same things twice as a general rule unless they are Meijis or Crunkies. Ok, so we have our favourites now.

  • Donnetta BlackfordJapan 2023Traveler
    Nargano1Inhaled before a photo was taken.. .Melon bun goodness3Cake! one of them translated to "angel fluff"1Vending machine coffee, not badPinky promise not to push me down the step ledge

    Birthday Adventures

    September 22, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Happy Birthday Paulie!

    After big group birthday huggles, a somewhat subdued team Blackford explored a hybrid Japanese/Western buffet at 6.30am. There were so many little bowls of things you wouldn't think to eat for breakfast. Thankfully, there were English labels, and to our credit, we went for the authentic experience before heading off to see the Snow Monkeys.

    We travelled from Matsumoto via Nagano to Yudankana via train. I just loved looking out the window of our reserved seats as the weather is similar to Donnybrook, cool and crisp. Here in Matusomoto, they grow massive apples and manufacture a particular type of Miso. The size of the ranges and the mist on the peaks were hard to capture in photos, but they framed every view of the countryside like we were in a (ramen) bowl. Just so beautiful.

    After a couple of hour-long train rides and a rickety bus transfer, we landed in Yamanouchi National Park to enjoy a beautiful 45-minute walk through the forest. We were all happy to stretch our legs and marvel at the quiet, crisp green foliage as we made our way up to the National Park Reserve.    Read more

  • Donnetta BlackfordJapan 2023Traveler
    Fireworks outside our window

    Monkeying Around

    September 22, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    The snow monkeys were incredible to get up close to. There were hundreds of them wandering past our feet, basking in the sun or grooming each other. The little ones were the cutest, just having a good old rough and tumble until mumma monkey came barreling in to scoop one up and leap away.

    I just wanted to cuddle a monkey, but you know, rabies is not the best colour for me. Plus, touching the monkeys is strictly prohibited, there are signs everywhere saying this. But I guess the monkeys didn't get the memo as Noah and Paul bore witness to some, errr monkey 'self-love' on display, complete with creative recycling of the well... you get the point. I didn't get that on film, and I'm not upset about that 🫣

    So many photos, I had to remember to put down the camera and just take it all in. The walk back to the bus was equally special, all of us buzzing with what we had just witnessed.

    With time to spare, we stopped off for an apple pizza (whilst in Rome right?) for lunch, followed by dinner at a restaurant chain that totally catfished us with photos of rump steak. Poor Paulie didn't get his luscious steak however, at least the kids were happy with some semblance of Western food.

    Paulie kept saying 'it was the best birthday because we were all together'.
    I think it's the best because he's part of our world and we are so grateful for this. Even Matsumoto agreed; fireworks were cracking off in the distance, clearly in his honour! We watched from the hotel window as we ate Family Mart birthday cake and sipped on gin

    💘 Happy birthday, darling boy. We love you so much.

    Enjoy hanging with a bunch of naked strangers in the sauna. Perhaps don't shout "It's my BIRTHDAY!" 🥴🤌

    Step count to date: 59,000 steps, 4 days.    Read more

  • Donnetta BlackfordJapan 2023Traveler

    Next Level Ablutions

    September 23, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    So let's talk about toilets.

    Next Level. ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

    You walk in and the lid pops up automatically. Running water sounds starts playing and the seat is heated. You do your business then select either front and or back wash, followed by a blow dry. Then you stand up and the lid closes and it automatically flushes.

    Like a car wash for your tushie!

    Next Level 🎚️

    Downsides: if the water is set too hot and you can't read Japanese, chances are you're going to make it hotter by pressing all the buttons.

    #Steamedwonton 🥴

    But no lie I haven't come across a dirty public toilet. We've been in tiny towns, shonky hotels, airports and countless train stations, including *the* busiest in the world. They are all at a standard of high end Australia restaurants or hotels. So clean. All dispensers and taps are automatic too.

    You know that hesitation going to public restrooms in Oz? Absolutely NONE here.

    Incredible.

    The absolute shit. 👏💗    Read more

  • Donnetta BlackfordJapan 2023Traveler
    You had to ring bells, placed at regular intervals, to scare off the brewers1TsumagoDad is an amazing packhorse. Each bag is at least 10kgRandom mascot in foyer under chandeliersNot sure where in/on the body these go ... 🥴😅

    Stepping Back in Time: Tsumago

    September 23, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    We said goodbye to Matsumoto with a breakfast of locally made soba noodles and tempura. Stella prefers her noodles less slippery and struck again at the pastry section of the buffet, pilfering more jam packets for ... well.... later.

    We boarded the morning train to Nakatsugawa, and after missing the connecting bus, took the world's most honest taxi, to Magome. (Noah can tell you the story of the travelling Airbuds: spoiler alert, they were safely returned after being ejected by his Big Boys).

    Magome is a formal postal town that served travellers on the major route between Tokyo and Kyoto during the feudal ages. The town is built on either side of a paved street that weaves up a very steep hill. Poor Paul was carrying our luggage like an absolute beast. I guess life's randomness is what he trains for after all. Thank goodness cos I could barely drag myself up the hill! The tourist information centre was at the top for reasons I still can't understand. This this is where we were leaving our bags to be forwarded on to tonights destination, as we spent the next three hours walking the trail to Tsumago.

    After the number of kilometres we have already walked to date, the 7.5km didn't sound too bad. All in a days work for team Blackford. I mean, I had to retire a pair of shoes already due to stitching coming away.

    Alan our trip planner, described the walk as gentle. Yeah. Nah. We didn't consider it gentle and after 50 mins walking uphill in the searing heat, Alan's popularity was starting to diminish. As the walk progressed however, we entered leafy green forests complete with babbling streams and surprise waterfalls, on the whole, it was a bit like the Bibblumum here at home. Except we don't need to periodically ring bells to scare the drop bears at home. Perhaps they are there to motivate the tourists not to linger, so perhaps that's why it only took us 2.5 hours to get to Tsumago!

    Tsumago was magic; this little village was frozen in time; only open to pedestrians during the day, with hidden power lines and displays of traditional homes from the Edo era. It was a truly immersive experience of what life would have been like decades ago. Time went so fast, just enough to snavel a few souvenirs, our luggage and a quick bite of rice balls and favoured ice.

    24,000 steps, one manic bus ride and three trains later, we arrived at 9pm into Hiroshima. The hotel is well, something. There are knights guarding the entrance of the "Grand Intelligent Hotel" (not a typo. I thought it was International too 😆) plus an oversized plushie in the foyer, which sat at odds against their attempt at opulence. We were thoroughly confused but too tired to care past celebrating the arrival of the rest of our luggage.

    When we walked into our room, initially we thought we had to share two doubles, until we found folded-up mattresses in the cupboard called 'futons'. Paul and I will attempt to share a bed, Stella the other, whilst Noah volunteered to take the floor with the two wafer-thin futons stacked together. The bathroom is set up like the Onsen washing area, where you sit down to shower in front of a mirror. Sitting is good. Sleeping is even better.

    Working the new kettle (which looks like a Dalek) and scoffing more weird snacks rounds out day seven. Tomorrow Noah is absolutely hanging for a skate on his new board, Stella is keen to op-shop and I'm going to try and find a laundromat (as the hotel doesn't wash on a bloody Sunday). 🙄

    Step count to date: 83,000    Read more

  • Donnetta BlackfordJapan 2023Traveler
    1Here's me faceShredding in Hiroshima. But Frick its hot! 🥵Bakery goodnessThis was only 50 steps. This is an average sized stairwell.

    Hiroshima, Here We Come

    September 24, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    We needed the sleep-in today and set intentions of getting our washing sorted, a quick skate and some op-shopping.

    Luck was on our side because not 100m from our hotel was an English-speaking 'Wash and Fold' that could deliver to our hotel. I swear the clouds parted and angels started singing because I thought it would mean spending hours in a coin laundry. We encouraged them to do an industrial wash, using fire if necessary, to which they laughed. Not sure if things got lost in translation, but I'm sure the $60 we paid them is not nearly enough for the job they have ahead. 🤢

    Unburdened of lugging around our washing, we went to brunch at a cafe that I picked off a tourist map (simply because it was near a river and I wanted the view). Well. What a find! Like most places in Hiroshima, they specialise in oysters and OMG 🤤🤤🤤 everything was next-level delicious. I can't cope. I'll never be the same. I'm forming a new religion in its honour. 🙌 (Even as I edit this post-holiday, it was still the best meal we had all trip)

    Next was op-shopping. Stella found some great buys in the cleanest smelling, most organised second-hand shop called 2nd Street. She's been wearing said skirt purchase ever since; it's so fire!

    (I know, I know, be cool mum, don't make a big deal. Not as if it's the first skirt shes worn in recent memory AND she bought two !🕺) Internally, I was screaming as loud as the fanboys at the random female pop troop 😅 Noah was embarrassed for his species. I must confess, it was a bit cringe, but each to their own.

    Hiroshima's shops were so great and we would have loved to spend more time there but Noah was fanging to break in his board, so in the interests of time, we taxied to his skate park.

    Under the duress of waiting for him, we explored a cool little bakery with Earl Grey tea slices and coffee pecan muffins. Agh, well, if we must, it would be rude not to. The bakers went to all this trouble to make these tiny, delicious cakes.

    The purchasing process is the same as all the other bakeries. You grab a tiny basket and using a fresh pair of tongs, gently place the pastries into the basket from the self-serve displays, then the servers then wrap each one in plastic and put it in a paper bag 😬.

    Totally wouldn't work in Australia. Our uncouth lot would be fondling the buns like..... ok, I'll keep it PG... with our grubby little mitts. Stella and I learnt the hard way, after getting shouted down by a zealous shop owner back in Matusomoto when we didn't use the tongs.

    We quickly worked out that the Japanese are big on hygiene. You place the money into a tray, and they return it on the tray. The first day I didn't realise and handed cash directly to the staff member, and I swear it looked like I handed them a dead cat. Lesson learnt.

    Anyway!

    Treats were consumed and a very hot skater boy retrieved before we were off to the train station because we had sake mysteries to solve. The Hiroshima A-Dome will have to wait until tomorrow.    Read more

  • Donnetta BlackfordJapan 2023Traveler
    1Inside a house from 1904End of clean clothes fashion. Stella being the exception in her new fitCheck out all the awards!Icecream you scream

    The Fine Art of Sake Brewing

    September 24, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    We caught a 40-minute train to the little town of Saijo, the sake brewing capital of Japan, thanks in no small part to its access to pristine spring water. This place is steeped in tradition, and it was lovely to explore the quiet streets.

    We were lucky to meet a fluent English-speaking brewery owner. Their multi-award-winning brewery is one of the oldest in the region, dating back to 1904. Their original head brewer was so renowned that a brewing school was established to ensure more brewers could learn from him.

    Did you know that due to the complexity of its brewing, Sake was only served to those in aristocracy 400 years ago?

    The whole sake brewing process is more complex than wine. We were lucky that the owner offered to take us through to have a look, as tours don't run for the public, and especially not to walk-ins on a Sunday afternoon. I get the sense the owner picked up on my enthusiasm for learning about the process, firing off lots of questions. I couldn't get many photos, but I was thrilled to see the behind-the-scenes of an original sake brewery. I guess the good vibes in no small part due to the consumption of said sake 🥴 🍶 again for science, keeping up the good work.

    More coffee and ice cream were had. The non-melting biscuit cones were delicious and milk-flavoured ice cream is now my new favourite. I know it sounds obvious as ice cream is made of milk, but it was next level!

    We wandered back to the train station, pointing out the red brewery stacks as we went. We were keen to get back on time for the cooking class tonight. as Alan impressed upon us the importance of not being tardy. Here goes nothing!    Read more

  • Donnetta BlackfordJapan 2023Traveler
    1
    111Back to our weird hotel foyer

    Cooking Okonominyaki

    September 24, 2023 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    We've been on the hunt for okonominyaki since we arrived here as Paul's mate Casper said it was a must. Despite enquiring at every eating house we had been at to date, we had had no success. Until we walked up to the venue where our cooking class was being held, and what did we discover we were cooking. You wouldn't read about it.

    Just look at his face! We were cooking Okonomiyaki!

    Alan, you're a wizard.

    As we learnt during the night, Hiroshima and Osaka are THE places to try okonomiyaki but they have different styles. In Osaka, all the ingredients are added into the pancake as it cooks (like an omelette) whereas in Hiroshima, it is assembled progressively in layers (like a lasagne).

    You'll be pleased to know we got there 15 mins early, washed up, obligatory photos and they tried not to tsk-tsk a the tardy Aussie couple that showed up 10 mins late.

    The cooking class was heaps of fun. Its pretty straightforward to do, just with lots of steps. You fry the pancake, add cabbage, onion, tempura and pork belly strips, and flip it! Then when it's cooked, you move it to the side off the hot spot of the grill whilst you cook the noodles separately into a pancake shape. Next, scoop up the cabbage with your flippers and layer onto the noodle pancake. Then finally, you crack an egg, scramble it a bit to create a little pancake, then lift the previous pile onto it, finishing with a final flip. Add sauce and toppings, then tuck in.

    We were chatting away with a couple from Sydney, swapping stories about how much we love Japan. Seems like our experiences have been similar and we all agreed that our favourite part of Japan was the people. Universally respectful, kind and peaceful. Gee, it's going to be a shock coming home.

    With super full tummies, it was a gentle nighttime walk back to our hotel, watching the glittering city as we crossed the river. Our beautifully folded washing was waiting in the hotel foyer, neatly wrapped in plastic bundles within our case. A little envelope contained all the contents of our pockets, including money; I just fell in love with Japan a little bit more then and there.

    After unpacking and repacking our two-day bags, the main cases loaded with sake are being forwarded to Tokyo. Tomorrow, we aim to visit the Hiroshima landmarks before catching the ferry to the Rokyu island.

    Step count; 98,000 to date.    Read more

  • Donnetta BlackfordJapan 2023Traveler
    The memorial1The muralsThis tree survived the blast. You can see the truck burnt away

    A-Bomb Memorial

    September 25, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Determined to see the memorial, we set off early after checking out, waving to the knights and forwarding our luggage to Tokyo.

    About 20 minutes up the road, we gave up trying to hail a taxi and stopped for breakfast at Starbucks instead. It was upstairs in a multi-story building so as we ascended the numerous flights of stairs, the usual apprehension of whether it was *actually* a cafe started to kick in. Akihabara really did a number on us. Thankfully, it was Starbucks, and as a double bonus, it was open despite most shops opening at 10 or 11 am.

    After recharging and mooching some Wi-Fi, we legged the rest of the way and wandered through Peace Park, ground zero for where the bomb was dropped in 1945.

    The original building remains a closely guarded memorial at the front of Peace Park. The beautifully manicured parks and gardens pay respects to those who died and the enduring spirit of the Hiroshima people.

    The Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum, however, was next level.
    Beautifully laid out with panoramic floor-to-ceiling murals, the first room depicted a 180 view of the city before the bomb was dropped. In the next room, a similar format, however, the murals depicting the exact same vista post-bombing. The juxtaposition was so powerful, but the journey was just getting started.

    Room after dimly lit room, we wove through backlit displays that built upon the narrative through numerous personal stories and recounts of events from survivors, told through text, drawings, photos and exhibits of torn clothing, twisted metal and personal items.

    Each item or story was beautifully and respectfully presented with full credit to the museum curators. Despite the fact we were shoulder-to-shoulder with hundreds of people, packed into a relatively small space, there was an air of quiet reverence punctuated by quiet sobs.

    I was in tears, it was gut-wrenching. Photos of burnt babies, peoples faces burnt beyond recognition, people fleeing with burnt skin hanging from their bodies, mother's found perished sheltering children. The radiation affected those who rushed to find loved ones in the rubble, those who volunteered to provide aid and those who were lucky enough to survive the initial blast. Many died horribly days later from radiation sickness or, if they survived, 5-10 years later from cancer.

    A city levelled. 140 000 people died. Multiple generations were affected.
    No words, really.

    We all took the time to read the displays and connect with the stories, Noah most of all. Having only just completed an assignment for school on the Hiroshima bombing a few weeks ago, seeing the narrative through the eyes of survivors really hit differently for him.

    Emerging into the bright light of day, we all stood with wet eyes overlooking the memorial constructed in honour of those who died. The museum we stood in was constructed only 10 years after the bombing; it was one of the first buildings prioritised in Japan's economic recovery to underline their commitment to returning to their roots of kindness, efficiency and peace. The taxi driver who later took us to the train station told us that since the bombing, Japanese people have regained pride in these values and placed kindness and peace above all else.

    These values are definitely what we have experienced so far; it's just such a shame it took the atrocities of war on both sides to reach it.    Read more

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