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Scotland 2018
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Scotland 2018

Bob and Val are heading to Scotland Baca lagi
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    26 Mei 2018
    Holmes TravelsScotland 2018Holmes Travels

    Fly to Vancouver

    26 Mei 2018, Kanada ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    We flew to Vancouver from Whitehorse and took the Skytrain to Burnaby. We met up with Kim and Myles and headed to Metrotown mall, but didn’t buy much, and then had dinner at Dumpling Dynasty. It was a twelve course extravaganza Chinese meal. After, we drove up Burnaby Mountain and walked around to the Simon Fraser campus. There were lots of nice flowers. We are staying with Kim and Myles tonight.Baca lagi

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  • Holmes TravelsScotland 2018Holmes Travels
    1Piano at Frankfurt airport
    Val on Buchanan StreetGlasgow Coat of Arms2Bob having beer outsideOutdoor food tablesA Scottish taxi

    Arrived in Glasgow

    28 Mei 2018, Scotland ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    We had to wait in Frankfurt for 6 hours, but eventually got on a sweltering hot bus at the gate and drove to the far end of the airport where the Glasgow plane was waiting. The flight was on time. Our bags made it to Scotland which always seems like a miracle. We bused into Glasgow and walked to our hotel, the Citizen M. It’s very boutique-ish. It’s hot here- somewhere in the mid 20’s but about 80% humidity. We had a nice dinner sitting outside. We are now back at the room. We’re both pretty tired having been up about 30 hours.Baca lagi

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  • Holmes TravelsScotland 2018Holmes Travels
    Red sandstone buildings in Glasgow

    Heading to Milngavie

    29 Mei 2018, Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Well, we’re up and had a nice breakfast. We are pretty jet-lagged but I’m sure that will go away in a day or so. This morning we’re heading to Central Station to catch a train to Milngavie, the start of the West Highland Way. It’s pronounced “Mill guy”, which is like a lot of Scottish names that are way off if you say them as they are written. Like, for example, Drymen (a day’s hike away, which is pronounced Drimmen. I’m sure everyone will be snickering at us when we mention place names. It’s grey but not cold today.Baca lagi

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  • Holmes TravelsScotland 2018Holmes Travels
    1Bergenia at train station
    Lots of elderly people in MilngavieBob standing by start of WHW marker

    In Milngavie

    29 Mei 2018, Scotland ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    We got here in the early afternoon. This is the starting point for the West Highland Way. It’s only a twenty minute train ride from Glasgow. Milngavie seems pretty quiet. It has a nice downtown mall with lots of bakeries and tea shops, and what seems like a lot of elderly people. Maybe they’ve retired out here to get away from the city. Bob had an Italian ice cream cone from a shop that’s been selling them since 1928. There is a monument in the downtown square with about 150 names from WW1. That is a lot of people lost from such a small town. We went for a nice dinner that was £30 with drinks. Bob had Highland chicken (likely not caught in the Highlands) stuffed with Haggis, with clapshot mash and Glengoyne whisky sauce. It doesn’t get much more Scottish than that. Tomorrow we start hiking.Baca lagi

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  • Holmes TravelsScotland 2018Holmes Travels
    Bob at start of WHW
    Dumgoyach FarmVal by oak treeGencoyne Distillery1Bacon in a bun for lunchView towards Loch LomondBob heading up a hillVal at the pub in DrymanAshbank B&B where we are stayingWhere we are having dinner

    Milngavie to Dryman

    30 Mei 2018, Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    This leg was 19 km. It started off nice and cool but by the afternoon it was really hot. The first half was mostly through woods alongside streams and fields. At the halfway mark we stopped at Dumgoyne for lunch and had a bacon “bap”, which is back bacon in a bun. We walked past the Glencoyne Distillery, because we really didn’t need to spend £22 for a tour and a dram of whiskey with the heat. The second half of the hike was in more open landscape and some of it along roads that were narrow but not busy. We got into Drymen (pronounced “Drimmon”) at 2 pm and sat down in a pub for drinks. We are staying at the Ashbank B&B. Tommy the owner greeted us. This hotel was once where Eric Liddell lived, who was the quiet Scotsman in Chariots of Fire. He won the 400 m run at the Paris Olympics in 1924. Tonight we are going to the Clachan Inn, which has the oldest licensed pub in Scotland.Baca lagi

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  • Holmes TravelsScotland 2018Holmes Travels
    1Val standing in broom
    In the pine treesNew trees plantedVal with Conic Hill1The islands along the Highland Boundary FaultLoch Lomond viewpointAlong the shore of Loch LomondLoch LomondBob on stairs nearing Rowardennan

    To Rowardennan

    31 Mei 2018, Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We left Drymen around 9 am. It was cool and misty but not raining. The cloud ceiling was pretty low but we could catch glimpses of Loch Lomond in the distance. We walked through quite a few areas of tree replanting and eventually came to Conic Hill, which we had to climb part way up and then head down to Balmaha. At Conic Hill you cross the Highland Boundary fault which divides the highlands from the lowlands and runs from Norway all across Scotland and into Ireland. You could see the line of islands in Loch Lomond that mark the fault. Traces of it are seen in the Appalachian mountains, as Scotland was once connected to North America 150million years ago.We had a yoghurt shake in Balmaha and then walked to Rowardennan which was another 11 km along the Loch. We are staying at the Rowardennan hotel, which was built in the 1600’s. It is at the foot of Ben Lomond. It’s about a five hour hike up to the top and back. Needless to say, we won’t be doing that tomorrow.Baca lagi

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  • Holmes TravelsScotland 2018Holmes Travels
    1Bob by huge pine tree
    Val in pine forestLoch LomondWaterfall along the LochFalls of Inversnaid1Cliffs along LochBob by oak treeLoch Lomond north endDoune Bothy old farmLast views of Loch Lomond

    To Inverarnan

    1 Jun 2018, Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Today started out cool but turned hot later in the day. We hiked along the east shore of Loch Lomond. The first 11 km was fairly straightforward along a well graded trail. The second half was more difficult with lots of rocks and roots along the trail, and very uneven. The midges came out but we didn’t find them too bad. They’re like “no-seeums”, very small and dark. We got to our accommodation, the Beinglas Farm about 4pm after walking for 10 hours with a few stops along the way. We had cider and beer there before checking into our room. It’s was slow going today with the heat and rough trail. There were a few sightings of snow patches on the highest hills, but it will be gone soon.Baca lagi

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  • Holmes TravelsScotland 2018Holmes Travels
    Tunnel under rail line
    Falls of FallochLooking back towards Loch LomondLooking ahead near InverarnanRiver FillanTrail goes under stone bridgeHighland cattleMiles of rock walls along the trailSaint Fillan's Priory

    On to Tyndrum

    2 Jun 2018, Scotland ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    Today we walked from Inverarnan to Tyndrum, which is about 20km. At the Beinglas Farm last night we had to sleep with the windows closed due to a “midges outbreak”. We haven’t found them at all bad, especially if you keep moving and bug dope works fine. Some people are really bitten up though. The trail today was pretty easy but it was very hot at times. There was a “Scottish oasis”, a freezer chest with bottles of drinks along the trail using the honesty system (£1 per bottle). We walked by St Fillan’s priory, which consists of portions of a stone wall and a graveyard. This dates from the 12th century. Later we passed an old lead smelter from 150years ago. We read that the lead mine employed people for a century. There was also a battle site of Robert the Bruce who was attacked by the McDougall clan. He threw his weapons in a small “lochan”, which actually seems an unlikely thing to do. Metal detectors have failed to turn up any metal in the lochan. We arrived at Tyndrum around 2:30, had a drink at a restaurant and then checked into our B&B.Baca lagi

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  • Holmes TravelsScotland 2018Holmes Travels
    At Tyndrum
    1After leaving TyndrumBeinn Dorain (1076 m)Bridge of OrchyBridge of OrchyRiver Orchy

    To Glencoe

    3 Jun 2018, Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    We left Tyndrum at 7:45 so we’d have lots of time to do our leg of 31 km today. It started out coolish and cloudy with mist. As the day went on it got hot and humid. We have been really battling the heat this trip. It has been a very unusual spell of hot dry weather for Scotland. The hike to Bridge of Orchy was fairly flat and on a good road, so we made good time. We had coffee at the Bridge of Orchy. An Australian fellow whom we met several times on the trail ran the distance from Tyndrum, and his wife, who is driving, was there to give him his pack for the rest of the walk. The trail then climbed for nice views of Loch Tula and we dropped down to the Inveroran Hotel. From there the Way climbs steadily on an old military and then commercial road that was roughly cobbled and hard on the feet. It was pretty hot and tiring. We walked through the Rannoch Moor, across some streams with the mountains getting higher and a little snow on them. The highest we got was about 460 meters and then dropped down towards Kings House. It started raining at that point. We took a short diversion to the Glencoe Mountain Resort, which is pretty small. We met the Australian woman there who was waiting for her husband. Because Kings House is under construction, a van picked us up at the Resort and took us into Glencoe village for tonight. It’s very nice here. It’s situated on Loch Leven, which is actually the ocean and joins to Fort William where we will be in two days. First thing we did was head for a beer and cider. We are staying at the Heatherlea B&B. The room is nice but very hot. We have the window open, but if the infamous midges emerge, we’ll have to close it. Nobody here has window screens, but that might be because the midges go through. We think the whole midges issue is overrated, so will I’m sure have our window open tonight. Our feet are sore tonight from the long distance and cobbles and heat.Baca lagi

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  • Holmes TravelsScotland 2018Holmes Travels
    The Stob Dearg a huge pyramid of rock
    A deer in the grassThese signposts have kept us on trackVal heading up Devils StaircaseThe WHW winding down to KinlochlevenBob looking towards north from passHeading dowhillPenstocks and power plantKinlochlevenIce climbing centre

    To Kinlochleven

    4 Jun 2018, Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Today we hiked from the Glen Coe ski centre, past Kings House to Kinlochleven. The trail goes up to around 500 meters elevation, ascending up what is called the Devil’s Staircase, which is essentially just a slog up a steep hill. Once at the top, the views are really stunning. On the way down the trail was rough. We are staying at Kinlochleven which was built in the 1800’s for an aluminum smelter. It’s closed now, but the power station, dam and penstocks are still functioning. In the town there is the UK ice climbing centre, which is a big tourist attraction. It was hot again today but no rain.Baca lagi

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  • Holmes TravelsScotland 2018Holmes Travels
    Leaving Kinlochleven
    Looking down Loch LevenLooking towards Lairigmor mountain passThe abandoned Lairigmor farmChecking out the wildlifeFirst views of Ben NevisBen Nevis 1344 metersHigh street in Fort WilliamThe official finish of the WHWOur B&B for the next 3 nights

    Finish of the West Highland Way

    5 Jun 2018, Scotland ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    We left Kinlochleven after a huge breakfast. Here you can eat porridge or cereal and fruit to start and then a main course afterwards. Bob had scrambled eggs and salmon and toast after the cereal, fruit and yoghurt. We dragged ourselves up the hill at the start. The day was long but not hard. It was cooler too which was nice. There is a lot of old logging scars along the route near the end, which is ugly but certainly opens up the views. When we walked into Ft William we went along the high street which is very busy. We took our picture at the end and then went for snacks. Sitting outside we saw several people whom we’ve been running into throughout the trip. They are all heading off in different directions now. Our B&B is a five minute walk away from the main part of town.Baca lagi

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  • Holmes TravelsScotland 2018Holmes Travels
    Good craft beer here
    Is this real money?On Loch LinnheFrom our B&B

    Just hanging out in Fort William

    6 Jun 2018, Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    This was our “off day” for sleeping in and just hanging out. After breakfast we wandered into town and had a coffee and then visited the shops. It’s a busy town with hikers coming off the West Highland Way with backpacks and poles, regular hill walkers and tourists coming with cars or by bus and train. The locals are very friendly and it doesn’t seem to have been spoiled the way most touristy towns are. We got our bus tickets for the rest of our travels and then went over to Brigham Ellis to look at hiking stuff. Bob bought a new pair of hiking boots (£££) and we picked up a map for tomorrow. We are planning to hike up Ben Nevis tomorrow by the Carn Mor Dearg Arête route. It is supposed to be a long arête crossing to get to the summit plateau but not too hard, and then we’ll come down the Mountain Path that most people use. We have to get a cab to the start but we should be able to walk back from the end.Baca lagi

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  • Holmes TravelsScotland 2018Holmes Travels
    Starting from near Torlundy
    We are heading to left side of arêteBen Nevis north sideMoss campionCIC hut below usOn ridge looking at Carn Mor Dearg

    Hiking Carn Mor Dearg Arête Part 1

    7 Jun 2018, Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Getting to the Ridge
    We wanted to hike up Ben Nevis, but rather than do it the normal way we tried something more interesting. There is an arête, which is the top edge of a big bowl behind Ben Nevis, and we decided to try getting to the top via this route.
    These pictures show the hike from near Torlundy (we took a cab there) to the Arête or ridge along back of the big bowl below the North Face of Ben Nevis. It was a hot sunny day for most of the hike and we slogged our way up the slope 1100 meters to get to the Carn Mor Dearg, which is the 9th highest Munro at 1220 meters. We saw very few people along the route.    Baca lagi

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  • Holmes TravelsScotland 2018Holmes Travels
    Cairn along the ArêteNorth Face of Ben Nevis3The last haul up boulders 220 meters to summitThe ruins of the old weather observatoryCairns and view at the topSome snow still left on Ben NevisA nice section of the Ben Nevis path

    Hiking Carn Mor Dearg Arête Part 3

    7 Jun 2018, Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Arriving on Ben Nevis
    It was quite a slog getting onto Ben Nevis from the arête. It was about 220 meters of boulder clambering. When we got to the top at 1344 meters we had our second Munro of the day. There were hoards of people up top. We slowly made our way back on the tourist track which involved descending 1340 meters. When we got to the bottom we grabbed a coke and then walked 3 km into town where we had dinner and drinks and then went back to our B&B to get ready for tomorrowBaca lagi

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  • Holmes TravelsScotland 2018Holmes Travels
    At the start of the Great Glen Way in Fort William
    Looking back at Fort WilliamNeptune StaircaseStretching our legsTypical scene along canal2On the walk to Spean BridgeThe Commando Monument

    On the Great Glen Way to Spean Bridge

    8 Jun 2018, Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    We left Fort William this morning to start our hike along the Great Glen Way to Inverness. This route follows a huge geologic fault that can be traced to Newfoundland from when Scotland and Newfoundland were connected before the Atlantic Ocean opened up. It is a lot easier and flatter than the West Highland Way but they have made some alternate routes that go higher above Loch Ness. So we’ll see. We walked 17 km km to Gairlochy where we watched a lock flood and raise a boat up. Then we walked 5 km to the B&B in Spean Bridge. We passed the Commando monument, dedicated to the commandos who trained here for WW2. We stopped and had drinks at Spean Bridge before checking into our accommodation. That seems to be the trend. Every day has been hot and humid so far. Bob bought new Scarpa boots in Fort William and wore them all day to break them in.Baca lagi

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