Bornova: EÜ Ethnography Museum

This morning, the three siblings and Mui met up at the Lozan entrance to Kültürpark. Not to explore it, mind you. Rather, we would be using the park as a shortcut to get to the Basmane District, from where we hopped on the metro to Bornova, another district of İzmir.

On our agenda were three different museums. But before we got where we planned to go, a sign pointing to the Ege University Ethnography Museum caused us to make a detour. None of us knew this museum, founded under the auspices of the university, even existed. It turned out to be a hidden gem.

The museum is housed in a stone house that dates back to the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Known as the Sirkehane [vinegar factory], the original owners of the house are unknown. The indoor well, apparently a known feature of the Levantine homes of the time, points to it likely being owned by a Levantine family. In any event, because the owners could not be identified, the property was taken over by the National Treasury in 1943. After being used for a variety of purposes, it was given to the university and eventually restored as the museum that we visited today,

The items on display are housed in two separate buildings. In the main building (the house) is a collection of traditional costumes and accessories from Anatolia, Thrace, and the Balkan countries. Also in this building is the kitchen that would have been used back in the day by the family who lived in the house.

In another section of the house, are the “wedding house” exhibits. One room features the traditional pre-wedding henna ceremony. Another room features the documenting of the dowry. As the young woman who works at the museum explained, it was tradition to make a list of every item the bride brought with her and the wedding gifts … complete with valuation of the items. In the event of the dissolution of the marriage due to death or other reasons, the documented items would then be returned to the woman. Very forward thinking considering the times.

The second building held a collection of musical instruments from Türkiye as well as from around the world. We also found a number of small rooms on the perimeter of the courtyard where dioramas represented traditional industries, such as shoe making, tailoring, copper and tin working.

We all enjoyed our whirlwind visit to the museum. My only complaint? The glass cases in which almost everything was displayed. You’ll notice the glare in the photos that accompany this footprint. Taking photos was challenging and, after a while, I gave up. I understand that the cases are essential for protecting the items. That doesn’t mean I have to like them.

All that said, a brochure we picked up at the Ethnography Museum lists 14 museums under the auspices of Ege University. Not sure if we will be able to visit them all, however. Time will tell!Read more