Budapest: Hospital in the Rock

Or more accurately, Szıklakórház Atombunker … Hospital in the Rock Nuclear Bunker. Though it has never been decommissioned, it is a museum since 2007. This was our destination after we left the Central Market Hall.

Getting off tram #2 near the Rinda, we dropped off a few things in our cabin before making our way across the Chain Bridge on foot. A hike through a park-like setting took us to the top of Castle Hill. Then we made our way to the Árpád Tóth Promenade and found the elevator that takes visitors down to the entrance of what was once a hospital-turned-nuclear-bunker … located literally under the Buda Castle District.

To visit the hospital, one must take a tour. Arriving at 3:01p, we barely missed the start of the English-language tour. The woman at the desk checked to see if she could squeeze us in, but the tour was already maxed out. So, she offered us two choices … wait for the 4:00p English tour; or join the Hungarian tour that was about to leave … with audio guides provided gratis so that we could listen to the commentary in English. We opted for the latter.

It was a fascinating tour, with wax figures depicting hospital scenes from back in the day. The audio guide gave us plenty of information at each stop we made along the tour route.

The Hospital in the Rock was built in a 6-mile long natural cave system that was used for various reasons as far back as the Middle Ages. Construction of what was intended to be a fully-functioning emergency hospital and air raid shelter began in 1939 and the facility was completed in 1944.

Initially, the purpose was to provide care for civilians. Later, medical services were extended to soldiers as well. There was no consideration of gender, race, religion, or ethnicity here. Anyone who needed medical treatment — including German soldiers — were provided care by the staff … which consisted of 40 doctors, nurses, and aides. The hospital had the best equipment available at the time … and generators allowed the staff to use them even when hospitals above ground were unable to function.

A facility that was intended to treat 60-70 people saw a major increase in patients during the Siege of Budapest in 1944-45. Records show that at one point more than 600 wounded soldiers were treated … the staff aided by volunteers and Hungarian and International Red Cross personnel. This increase put a strain on food and medicine … to the point that medical supplies were recycled by taking them from corpses, sterilizing and reusing them. Conditions were challenging, but the hospital continued to provide treatment and care.

The hospital closed its doors to patients after WWII. For a while, it was used to produce typhus vaccines. In 1956, at the start of the revolution against Soviet rule, it re-opened as a functioning hospital. A few years later, the facilities were expanded and upgraded to serve as a nuclear bunker … designed to survive a nuclear or chemical attack even while continuing to function as a hospital.

As I noted above, it was a fascinating tour. No photos, alas … not allowed. But I did pick-up a few postcards — not the best quality — to scan and include with the words in this footprint.Read more