• St Saphorin: Château de Chillon

    10. august 2025, Schweiz ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    After enjoying breakfast on the balcony — the scenery dominated by the misty pastels of the lake and sky above us and the deep green of the vineyards below us — we set off for Veytaux … located south of Montreaux … and home to Château de Chillon, which overlooks Lake Geneva.

    The château, which excavations have led scientists to believe that the site has been occupied since the Bronze Age, is a popular place. This was evident from the moment we arrived to find the ‘free-for-three-hours parking’ along the lakeshore already crowded with cars, vans, and coaches. Mui’s ’parking luck’ held, however, and we found a spot. Setting the little clock placard that came with our rental to show our arrival time, we placed it on the dash and went off to explore the grand edifice.

    The château’s website describes the castle as follows: “The rocky island on which the castle sits was both a form of natural protection and a strategic position to control passage from the north to the south of Europe. The castle took on the oval shape of the genuine island upon which it was built. It is approximately 100m long and 50m wide. It also took its name from the rock; the word ‘Chillon’ meant ‘rocky platform’ in an ancient language.”

    The waterside cháteau, which is surrounded by a moat, has a history that dates back to 12th century … its name first appeared in written documents in 1150. In addition to its defensive purpose, it served as a royal residence, growing and changing through the centuries. Rather than going into all that detail, I’m going to link to the website for those interested in more information … https://www.chillon.ch/en/castle/.

    After purchasing our admission, we set off on a self-guided tour … starting in the underground rooms … built for storage but later used as a dungeon … its most famous occupant Bonivard, who was immortalized in Lord Byron’s poem, “The Prisoner of Chillon.” Then crossing one of the many courtyards, we made our way inside to wander through the great halls; explore the halls and rooms, including the plainly-decorated Bernese bedroom … that boasted an en suite bathroom and even running later … true luxuries of the period; climb the keep; and stroll along the sentry walks rimming the defensive walls of the château.

    My favorites of all the rooms we saw were (1) the Camera Domini (the lord’s bedroom), its walls decorated with 14th century murals of animals … info panels encouraging visitors to look for the faint depictions of a griffon and a dragon; and (2) the Chapel, considered a rarity in that it escaped “the iconoclastic zeal of the Reformation” … though it was used as first a granary and later as a powder room during the time known as the Bernese Period, the 19th century saw it revert to a place of worship for prisoners when the château was used as a prison by the Canton of Vaud.

    We ended up spending more time at Château de Chillon than we anticipated, so we scrapped the rest of our sightseeing ideas for the day. Instead, we went on a stroll along the lakeshore to enjoy views of the place from different vantage points. Returning to the cháteau, we decided to enjoy a light meal at the eatery on the grounds … Café Byron … named for the poet who is often thought to have been the one who was the “Prisoner of Chillon,” though that was never the case.

    Eventually, returning to The Nest, we wrapped up our day with wine and snacks on the balcony, enjoying the setting sun, which bathed the scenery in golden hues.

    Tomorrow, we return to Geneva … though we are considering spending the day in Annecy, France — as suggested by my brother — before we head to our hotel at the airport for an overnight stay before we fly to London on the 12th!
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