After eight years of being away from the polar regions, we will be scratching our "Ice Itch" with a Quark Expeditions voyage that will take us into the Canadian High Arctic. もっと詳しく

国のリスト

  • グリーンランド
  • カナダ
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カテゴリ
クルーズ船、自然、と 荒野
  • 10.0千マイル旅行
輸送手段
  • 飛行6,601キロ
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  • 88足跡
  • 20日間
  • 337写真
  • 412いいね
  • Ilulissat Ice Cruising

    2022年8月5日, Davis Strait ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    Back onboard after our trek in Ilulissat, we grabbed a quick bite to eat in the dining room while Ultramarine repositioned for our afternoon zodiac cruise amongst the ice.

    There is simply too much ice in the Icefjord to safely cruise there. No problem, however, cruising around the bergs that have left the fjord to begin their journey to wherever the currents take them. Some of these bergs, which head into the North Atlantic eventually, have been observed as far as 2,000 miles away from their place of birth.

    Fabrice, who is one of our biologists on this expedition, took us on a fantastic cruise around the ice. His years of experience in the polar regions allowed him to go where others might not have dared. He knew how to read the ice, staying away from some of the bergs and approaching others … always at a safe distance. In fact, one of the bergs he said we should only appreciate from a distance gave us a good sized calving when one side fell completely apart.

    The group size for zodiac cruises are kept to 8 passengers or less. On this cruise, however, we had one extra person … Dave, our expedition photographer. Thanks to him, we have a wonderful memory-shot by which to forever remember this outing.
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  • There Be Whales!

    2022年8月5日, Davis Strait ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    As the ship was positioning from Ilulissat to the nearby ice for our zodiac cruise, Mui and I spotted two humpback whales feeding near some bergs. They were too far away to photograph, so we enjoyed the sighting with our binoculars until they disappeared.

    Little did I know then that we’d have a another encounter with whales on the way back to the ship after Fabrice called time on our cruise. I don’t know if they were the same whales, but once again there were two of them. And this time they were close … like right by the zodiac close.

    Needless to say, we did take the time to enjoy their company until they disappeared into the depths of the sea once again.

    What a great way to wrap up our day in and around Ilulissat.
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  • Back South to Sisimiut

    2022年8月6日, グリーンランド ⋅ ☁️ 41 °F

    Remember how I said there are only two places around here where we can top off the ship´s fuel tanks? Well, that’s what brought us back south … to Sisimiut, Greenland’s second largest community. Although we’re still north of the Arctic Circle, this town — with a population of little more than 5,000 — is considered the island’s northernmost ice-free harbor in the winter.

    Once Ultramarine was docked — yes, no zodiac landing today — off we went for a wander around Sisimiut. Quark had arranged for a tour with local guides and a “tasting of Greenlandic delicacies” … that included crab and shrimp, but also whale blubber and seal. Since we had done both the tour and the tasting in 2013, Mui and I decided to take off on our own this time.

    (The story of our 2013 visit — in words and images (including the delicacies Mui tasted) — is at this link: http://2totravel.blogspot.com/2014/01/sisimiut-….)

    Our wander first took us further into town … to places where the locals live and shop. People were going about their daily business and it just didn’t feel right to take photograph of them doing so. No photos, I’m afraid. I did, nonetheless, get plenty of memory-shots of the colorful houses dotting the landscape. And when the overcast, foggy conditions gave way to short-lived blue skies … well, all bets were off and the phone clicked away, creating new memories.

    We had planned to have coffee and pastries at a cafe recommended by one of our expedition guides. By the time we arrived, however, the place was packed with locals. Nowhere to sit. Plus, we didn’t want to intrude. Time to retrace our steps.

    On our way back to the ship, we stopped at the museum, which we visited in 2013 as well. Quark had once again pre-paid the admission for us, so we wandered around the buildings, checking out the various exhibits.

    Once we returned to Ultramarine, there was a surprise in store for us all. While we watched from the ship, a local man demonstrated his kayak skills … essential to living and hunting in this part of the world. How he did not get a brain freeze as he rolled his kayak over and over again is beyond me. (No video this time, but there is a short gif file in the link I inserted above.)

    An excellent time in Greenland — unexpected in terms of some of the places we visited — has now wrapped up. Ultramarine has been “fed” … the fuel tanks are topped off. Time to head west across the Davis Strait.
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  • Crossing the Davis Strait

    2022年8月6日, Davis Strait ⋅ ⛅ 39 °F

    On arrival in Sisimiut, Ultramarine’s Master had docked with the ship’s bow facing out to the sea. Thus, when the time came to leave our berth, it was just a matter of letting the lines go. And off we went into the fog … with blue skies giving us hope that the heavy mist might burn off in time.

    It wasn’t meant to be. Within a short while, the fog was as thick as could be. No hope of seeing anything — wildlife or otherwise. In other words, a good time to rest up a bit.

    When we went down to the Ambassadors Theater later for the daily recap and briefing, there was one big question on our minds. Where are we going? OK, two questions. When will we get there being the second one.

    Christian, our Expedition Leader, was ready with ice, wind, and sea charts. He didn’t have to say much. The ice in the south and middle coast of Baffin Island was still problematic. So, instead of a short crossing due west and then north along the coast of Baffin, we’d be taking a longer route, heading north and around the ice … fingers crossed.

    The sea and wind conditions are expected to be kind to us. If that holds true, we should be where we want to go early on the 8th. That means we’ll have a day at sea tomorrow before we begin “expeditioning” anew.
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  • Baffin Bay … Crossing to Arctic Canada

    2022年8月7日, Baffin Bay ⋅ ☁️ 34 °F

    Our day was spent at sea, cruising through Baffin Bay … making the crossing from Greenland to Canada. We haven’t entered Canadian waters yet, however. Maybe later tonight or tomorrow morning.

    Just because we spent the day at sea doesn’t mean that we had a slow day. Not by any means.

    We got up at 7:00a to thick fog and northern fulmars flying around the ship. Since I’ve given up carrying a DSLR with a heavy, fast lens, I didn’t even attempt to photograph the birds. Just enjoyed their presence before heading down to breakfast.

    After our morning meal, I did something I’ve never done while on an expedition before. I went to the ship’s spa for a hot stone massage. I can easily say that it was the best I’ve had anywhere … on ship or on land. Mui was equally pleased with his treatment later in the day. Thank you, Desiree.

    Totally relaxed, I was ready for the rest of the day, which included a number of lectures — “Footsteps of Franklin: Into the Frozen Ice” … by historian Ken; “Permafrost: Frozen but Fragile” by glaciologist Jodie.

    The daily recap & briefing consisted of a number of mini-lectures — why penguins are found only in the Southern Hemisphere (with the Galapagos Penguin the only species straddling the Equator … by ornithologist Adrian; the building blocks of the Arctic … by marine biologist Sam; zooplankton … by biologist Sylvia, who brought the house down with her description of how barnacles mate.

    Christian, our Expedition Leader, wrapped up by saying that we changed course this afternoon to get closer to the edge of the sea ice. Later, during dinner, plates of broken up sea ice began banging against the hull as Ultramarine gently pushed them out of our way. Needless to say, we rushed through our meal to spend time on the outside decks to enjoy the experience that is always a highlight of polar voyages.

    Tomorrow is planned as an expedition day. What that means is that we don’t know yet what we will be doing. Our progress overnight and weather conditions tomorrow will determine what activities will be in store for us.
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  • Back in Baffin Bay Sea Ice

    2022年8月8日, Baffin Bay ⋅ ☁️ 34 °F

    Heard some banging and clanging overnight, so obviously we came across more sea ice. It has slowed down our progress a bit.

    When we woke up this morning, we were still in Greenland waters … in the ice once more … slowly making our way through the broken up pans … the more distant ones veiled from our eyes by fog. We enjoyed the experience from our veranda for a while, then went off to grab breakfast.

    After our meal, we wandered the outside decks, checking out the ice views in every direction. We even caught sight of a distant but readily identifiable glimpse of a ringed seal, the favorite prey of the top predator of the Arctic … the polar bear. (I’ve attached an iPhone video of the encounter though it isn’t of the greatest quality.)

    The planned lectures luckily came up on the schedule after we left the ice behind. They filled up the rest of our morning at sea. First, “Photography 102: Modes for Capturing the Arctic” … by expedition photographer Dave. Next, “Frankly Speaking” … designed to introduce us to Sir John Franklin … by guest lecturer/historian Laurie.

    Our day remains fluid. Will we get to have an off-ship activity this afternoon or will we be attending more lectures? Still TBD. Mother Nature has not given us a hint of what she will allow us to do.

    In the meantime, time to grab lunch in the Balena Restaurant.
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  • Baffin Bay Ice Cruising

    2022年8月8日, Baffin Bay ⋅ ☁️ 36 °F

    Mother Nature decided to give us a break this afternoon.

    At 2:00p, Christian, our Expedition Leader, came on the P/A system to announce a zodiac cruise amongst the sea ice littering the water around us. Yes! Time to bundle up with our woolens, fleece, and wet gear and head off the ship.

    Juani, who hails from South Africa, was our zodiac driver. Mui jokingly suggested that landing on an ice floe would earn her extra points. Dont’cha know? She found us a solid piece of sea ice, revved the engine, and thrusted the bow of the zodiac onto the ice! Seeing us, other zodiacs followed suit, finding their own landing spots.

    Once we resumed our cruise, we weaved in and out of the eroded bergs and ice pans, enjoying the amazing color of the ice … and the water. We even came upon a ringed seal amongst the ice. Juani, turned off the engine, so that we could quietly approach the animal without stressing it out. Great encounter.

    So happy that we managed to get off Ultramarine, if only for a short zodiac cruise.

    Tomorrow, if all goes well, we will be making land … in Canada.
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  • N Baffin: Welcome to Arctic Canada

    2022年8月9日, Northwest Passage ⋅ ☀️ 41 °F

    We have arrived in Canadian waters. Ultramarine is sailing through Pond Inlet, a waterway that lies between Baffin Island and Bylot Island. We have yet to step foot on Canadian soil, however. We have to clear customs and immigration before that can happen. The formalities will be taken care of later when the officials come aboard the ship.

    In the meantime, here is the brief story of our morning thus far.

    When I awoke at 5:15a, I felt quite rested … thanks to the extra hour we gained overnight. Even with the curtains drawn, the cabin seemed brighter. Aha! The sun must be out. And it was. What a joy. I tried to step out on the veranda, but …the door wouldn’t budge! The wind was so strong that I couldn’t push the heavy door open. Oh, oh! Was this going to keep us on the ship for another day?

    There were lectures on the schedule this morning to continue our education in all things Arctic. I stayed in the cabin to watch the live-stream broadcast on the TV so I could keep an eye out for when land views replaced the ocean views.

    The first lecture went ahead as planned; the second one was postponed so that we could all go out on deck to enjoy the views. We were now at the mouth of Pond Inlet … making our way to Eclipse Sound.

    Luckily, by this time, the wind had died down so we could get out there and view the mountain landscape on either side of the ship … with glaciers streaming down the sides … jagged peaks reaching up towards the blue sky.

    Beautiful!

    Time for lunch and then … well, it all depends on the formalities to clear us for entry into Canada.
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  • Welcome to Pond Inlet … Nunavut, Canada

    2022年8月9日, カナダ ⋅ ☀️ 46 °F

    Shortly after lunch, we arrived at our anchorage overlooking Pond Inlet — an 1800-strong Inuit hamlet that is known as Mittimatalik in the Inuktitut language. Names in the indigenous language are meant to be descriptive of the place. This one means “the place where the landing place is.”

    First up, clearing the ship and the passengers for entry into Canada. We had all completed our ArriveCAN apps and our passports were in the hands of the purser’s office. Thus, no action was required on our part. Alex, our Assistant Expedition Leader, went ashore with the zodiac and brought back the authorities. I understand each passport was reviewed and stamped as part of the process.

    At 3:00p, the announcement was made to say that the zodiacs were going into the water. The Fram group was advised to head to the ready room to get ready. And off we went. On the landing beach, we were warmly greeted by the local community members. After our names were checked off a manifest, we joined one of the many locals who would be acting as guides and escorting us around the hamlet.

    Our first stop was at a sod-house still under construction. Here, one of the women had prepared tea, using Arctic willow to build her fire. The fragrant smell had added a smoky flavor to the tea … interesting; would take some getting used to.

    Next we headed to the library where several locals had set up tables where they were selling their handmade wares. Inside the building was also a small museum with exhibits about hunting in the Arctic.

    Our walk continued through the village to a hilltop for views of the mountains on Bylot Island across the waterway of Pond Inlet. And then onward we went to the supermarket … more like a Walmart … very well provisioned. Chatting with one of the locals, we learned that fresh goods are shipped up several times a week and other goods are replenished with once-weekly shipments.

    The highlight of our visit was the stop we made at the community center. Here we were treated to a very special performance … a mini Inuit Games, if you will. These games consist of sport and cultural events. The participants are the circumpolar people who reside in communities/countries that border the Arctic Ocean. The games are intended to showcase activities that build endurance to survive the rigors of living in the harsh Arctic.

    (More info here … https://indigenouspeoplesatlasofcanada.ca/artic….)

    After the performance, we made our way back through the hamlet to the landing beach. Bidding “Tavvauvutit” [goodbye] to the friendly locals, we hopped back into the zodiacs and returned to the ship to wrap up our first day in the northern reaches of Baffin Island.

    We'll be continuing to play around the North Baffin area tomorrow.
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  • Welcome to Navy Board Inlet

    2022年8月10日, Northwest Passage ⋅ ⛅ 39 °F

    An L-shaped series of named waterways separate Bylot Island from Baffin Island.

    Yesterday, we entered the area through the bottom arm of the “L” via Pond Inlet and made our way to Eclipse Sound, visiting the Inuit community of Pond Inlet along the way.

    Overnight, we transited Eclipse Sound and entered the upright arm of the “L” to arrive in Navy Board Inlet. We’ll be continuing up to the mouth of this inlet to eventually enter Lancaster Sound to get to Resolute on the 17th … stopping in places where the Franklin Expedition left its footprints in the mid 1800s.

    But first, we’ll be playing around a bit in this area. Before we head off for our hike on Baffin Island, a quick glimpse of the scenery we beheld from the ship at breakfast this morning.
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