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In the Footsteps of FranklinIn the Footsteps of Franklin
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In the Footsteps of Franklin

luglio - agosto 2022
After eight years of being away from the polar regions, we will be scratching our "Ice Itch" with a Quark Expeditions voyage that will take us into the Canadian High Arctic. Leggi altro

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  • Two to TravelIn the Footsteps of Franklin

    Tundra Hike @ Low Point

    10 agosto 2022, Canada ⋅ ☁️ 41 °F

    Our first tundra hike in Arctic Canada came with a set of new rules. Basically, no meandering off on our own like we did in Greenland. No perimeter hiking here. Have to go with an armed guard/guide trained in safe-handling of guns. Polar bears don’t you know!

    At yesterday’s briefing, Christian (our Expedition Leader) had explained that we’d be going ashore with different groups if the landing involved hiking in the wilderness. The groups would be … chargers, medium-fast walkers, medium slow walkers; contemplative walkers. The goal of the first group would be to go as high and as far as possible. The remaining groups … well, their names pretty much say it all. We would be called down to the ready room by these groups as well, so we needed to decide which group we wanted to go with before we left the ship.

    We like to stop and “smell the tundra” when we are out and about, so a slower pace is optimum. But what if the medium-slow was too slow? We’ve had that happen before. So, we went ashore when the medium-fast group was called to get a better sense of the hiking plan and terrain. After talking with the group leader, we decided that there wouldn’t be enough stops for photos and such, so we waited for the medium slow group to form and joined them instead. Turns out that even that pace on this hike was too fast.

    Normally, once you set off with your group, you can’t jump ship, so to speak. We lucked out, however. When we reached the 500-year old fox traps dating back to the Thule people, the forefathers of today’s Inuit, we found the contemplaters dallying about. After listening to Laurie, who was standing by to explain how the traps worked, we advised our guide that we were leaving to join the slowest group.

    I’m so happy we did, as we had more opportunities to explore as we made our way back to the beach … took more tundra detail-photos. And even found the skeleton of a juvenile reindeer … which we had walked past on the way up … never even seeing it where it lay on the ground.

    A fantastic two-hour hike ashore!

    —————————————

    By the way, I’m very happy that Laurie was ashore to point out the fox traps. Without him standing where he was to tell us how they worked, we would have passed by without recognizing the open-top cairns as being fox traps. Apparently, the design of the trap — narrow with an opening at the top and a very wide base at the bottom made it impossible for the fox to get out once it fell inside … lured there by the meat used to bait the trap.    Leggi altro

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  • Two to TravelIn the Footsteps of Franklin

    Zodiac Cruise @ the Grounded Bergs

    10 agosto 2022, Canada ⋅ ☁️ 41 °F

    After our hike at Low Point, we hopped on a zodiac for the promised closer look at the grounded bergs that had been tantalizing us with their presence.

    Our zodiac driver, Lauritz (glaciologist/geologist), had already been out to the bergs and knew when and where to capture the “money shot.” I opted to take a video as that moment approached to make sure I didn’t miss my chance.Leggi altro

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  • Two to TravelIn the Footsteps of Franklin

    There Be Orcas in Navy Board Inlet

    10 agosto 2022, Northwest Passage ⋅ ⛅ 41 °F

    Back on the ship, we had some time to while away before we got to our next anchorage.

    After watching Ultramarine skirt the grounded bergs to continue north in Navy Board Inlet, we grabbed some lunch and then settled down in the cabin to watch the live-stream of Laurie’s previously postponed presentation … the “Polar Bridge.” We listened and watched in amazement as he related the story of the 91-day long joint Soviet-Canadian expedition in which he participated in 1988. The goal of the expedition? To ski across the frozen Arctic Ocean from Siberia to Ellesmere, Canada … via the North Pole. Oh WOW!

    (More on the expedition at this link: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soviet–Canadian_1…)

    We were whiling away the time after the presentation, when a call went out over the P/A. Not for the expected zodiac cruise, but for ORCAS! WOW! WOW! WOW!

    Orcas have only recently been showing up in these latitudes due to the warming of the Arctic waters. They come up to hunt narwhals and belugas. Their presence, of course, is tipping the balance of nature up here since they are not a native predator of the region. Sam, our resident marine biologist, identified them as North Atlantic Orcas and estimated that there were somewhere around 40 individuals in the transient pod that was arrayed all around us. They were heading in the same direction that we were, so we got to enjoy their presence for quite a while.

    WOW again. What an encounter!    Leggi altro

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  • Two to TravelIn the Footsteps of Franklin

    Zodiac Cruising @ Cape York

    10 agosto 2022, Canada ⋅ ☁️ 39 °F

    Once we left the orcas behind, Ultramarine continued towards the north mouth of Navy Pond Inlet where it connects to Lancaster Sound.

    The plan? To do a zodiac cruise. “Christian has selected an odd place for a zodiac operation,” I thought to myself. Except for four distant bergs, there wasn’t much to see in the area. The water was quite choppy. And it was drizzling. Nonetheless, when the Fram group was called, off we went to see what we could see.

    We returned to the ship around 6:00p, removed our layers, and hurried off to the daily recap and briefing. Here we got some more news that I found odd.

    Instead of heading further up into Lancaster Sound locations, the plan for the day will keep us in the northern reaches of Baffin Island. Perhaps the heavier winds we’ve been told to expect tomorrow has something to do with this. Or the fact that we need to pick-up some modern-day explorers who will be hitching a ride with us across the sound to Devon Island are impacting the plans. Anyway, the plan is what it is and we’ll go along with it.    Leggi altro

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  • Two to TravelIn the Footsteps of Franklin

    Colorful Formations in Admiralty Inlet

    11 agosto 2022, Northwest Passage ⋅ ⛅ 48 °F

    We woke up to another overcast day … with on and off drizzle. Not unlike yesterday. But with a few differences in the conditions. The wind was much stronger. And even protected by the cliffs rising 1,000 to 1,500 feet on either side of Admiralty Inlet, the sea was considerably choppier.

    Landscape-wise, the area was very different … but in a good way. Colorful formations — red and orange dominant — added cheer to the scenery.

    The plan was to continue deep into the inlet to find calmer waters for zodiac operations. So, we bided our time, enjoying the scenery first from our veranda, and then by bundling up to go to the port side to check out the views there.    Leggi altro

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  • Two to TravelIn the Footsteps of Franklin

    We Make a Mistake

    11 agosto 2022, Northwest Passage ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    When we reached Adams Sound, one of the many waterways that radiates out from the the sides of Admiralty Inlet, the call went out to prepare for a zodiac cruise.

    Mui and I had already checked the conditions outside. The water was still very choppy. The wind was blustery. And there was nothing to see outside … except for the views we’d already enjoyed as Ultramarine transited Admiralty Inlet to Adams Sound … and which we’d be seeing again when the ship retraced its route back out.

    Doing a zodiac cruise here made no sense whatsoever. We shook our heads, but decided to be good soldiers and participate in the outing anyway. After all, it looked like the sun was trying to break out. Perhaps conditions would improve. And thus the mistake we made. We definitely should have skipped this zodiac cruise.

    With Wayne — the Inuit guide who is one of the members of the expedition team — at the helm, off we went on a bone-jarringly rough ride in choppy waters, getting splashed repeatedly. The wind was blowing so strong that we had to squint to see anything. Needless to say, our cameras remained in the dry bag and we used our hands to hang onto the rope on the pontoon to keep our balance.

    Wayne tried to give us as smooth a ride as possible, but his efforts were to no avail. When he suggested we cut our ride short, we all agreed wholeheartedly that it was time to return to the ship.

    It was a cold, wet ride … and one that we deeply regret … especially considering what has come to light since our return to the ship.    Leggi altro

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  • Two to TravelIn the Footsteps of Franklin

    And Just Like That … Everything Changes

    11 agosto 2022, Canada ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    It was only 10:30a when we returned from our bone-jarring, cold, and wet zodiac ride. Yes, the wet gear had done its job and we were dry under our layers of clothing. But my back was killing me.

    So, I decided to see if Desiree was free for a hot stone massage. Aaahhh! So relaxing. My aches diminished and my body warmed up as she worked her magic.

    While I was being soothed, blissfully unaware of what was going on outside the treatment room, Mui was attending a mandatory meeting. It wasn’t one that had been on the schedule for the day.

    I left the spa and went to find Mui. The ship was eerily quiet. People were huddled together here and there … whispering … some gesticulating wildly. Hmmm … something was up. But what? Mui filled me in when I found him eating lunch at the Balena Restaurant.

    I’ll cut to the chase and just say that we are NOT going to be following “In the Footsteps of Franklin” after all. In fact, we are not going to be exploring much more of Arctic Canada … maybe one more day in the region and that’s it. After that we’ll be hightailing it back to Greenland as we will need about three days to get back to Kangerlussuaq.

    Why are we going back? It’s not ice blocking the way to Resolute, our original point of disembarkation. It’s not an issue with the ship. Nor is there some kind of medical emergency. A worldwide disaster is not the predicament either. The problem is the charter flight that is supposed to return us from Resolute to Toronto on the 16th.

    Only specially-equipped aircraft can land on the short, gravel runway at Resolute. These planes are smaller in size. We need two of them to fly everyone back to Toronto. One of these planes is now apparently down for a couple of weeks due to mechanical issues. There aren’t many carriers that operate this type of aircraft, so another charter from Resolute is not possible. We’re heading back to Greenland because the runway at the Kangerlussuaq Airport is paved … and can accommodate a wider variety of planes.

    Christian, our Expedition Leader, apparently got word of a potential problem yesterday — or maybe it was the day before. That just might answer why we’ve been dawdling in this area instead of heading across Lancaster Sound. Anyway, he was waiting to hear what the resolution was going to be before breaking the bad news to a shipful of passengers who came up to these latitudes with the “hope” of visiting some of the places in the annals of exploration history.

    This was depressing news, but hey … what can you do? Nothing. Got to go with the flow. We have some decent offers from Quark to make up for our troubles. Which offer will we take? That is TBD … we have some thinking to do.

    In the meantime, here’s why we’re regretting this morning’s outing. Had we not gone on the “zodiac-outing-that-made-no-sense,” we would have jumped at the chance this afternoon to go ashore at the Inuit community of Arctic Bay (Ikpiarjuk in Inuktitut … meaning "the pocket" … probably a reference to the hamlet’s location overlooking a wide bay). Hindsight and all that.

    As it is, we’re both drained … physically, and in light of the changes announced, mentally as well. My back is still achy. I just couldn’t face a rough-ish ride ashore. Missed opportunity for sure, but hopefully fellow-passengers will share some of their experiences for the expedition photo journal.

    Now to take a couple of pain killers, get a cup of hot chocolate — laced with a tiny bit of Baileys or Amarula perhaps — and relax so we can be ready for whatever tomorrow has in store for us.    Leggi altro

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  • Two to TravelIn the Footsteps of Franklin

    Into the Storm!

    11 agosto 2022, Northwest Passage ⋅ 🌧 43 °F

    Once we left Arctic Bay and headed out of the calm-ish waters of Adams Sound for the Admiralty Inlet, it didn’t take long for us to encounter rough seas and high winds! The waves looked like they were at least 13 feet high. The winds … well, who knows … but going outside wasn’t the smartest thing to do.

    Ultramarine is handling the waters well. And since we’ve experienced worse conditions, we’re doing OK. However, I hope things calm down overnight or tomorrow’s plan for a landing at Beechey Island — an important Franklin Expedition site where three of the men who died early on are buried — is going to go down the drain.    Leggi altro

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  • Two to TravelIn the Footsteps of Franklin

    Modern-Day Polar Explorers

    11 agosto 2022, Northwest Passage ⋅ 🌧 43 °F

    Most of the post-dinner activities on the ship have been bar talks and the like where an expedition team member regales passengers with stories. We’ve not been attending them. For two reasons. One, we use the time to rest up for the next day. Two, gathering in large groups in an enclosed space for a couple of hours when COVID-19 can still rear its ugly head is not something we want to risk.

    (You might say that we gather in large groups for the lectures, so what’s the difference? There is no eating and drinking in the Ambassadors Theater most of the time, so people are more prone to keeping their masks on then.)

    Tonight, however, there were special guests onboard and they were going to give a presentation. So, we headed to the Ambassadors Lounge to be regaled by their story.

    Our guests: Borge Ousland and Vincent Colliard, a pair of modern-day polar explorers.

    The Topic at Hand: Borge’s winter crossing in the Arctic … entirely in the dark.

    Borge is the first person to solo to the North Pole … and he also did a solo crossing of Antarctica via the South Pole. He and Vincent are in the midst of their latest quest … to ski across the 20 largest glaciers around the world as part of an expedition called the Ice Legacy Project.

    In their words … “Glaciers are in fast decline due to rising temperatures, causing threat of long-term sea level rise. They are crucial as a fresh water source for millions of people worldwide. This is why glaciers need to be better known and protected. The world needs to find technical and political solutions to the environmental crisis. This long-term expedition is meant to be an incubator to that process, a visual example and a window to what is happening.” ~~ from the http://www.icelegacy.com/ website.

    Christian had convinced Borge and Vincent to join us at our first scheduled stop in South Baffin Island. Well, we all know how that turned out. Instead, we picked them up in Arctic Bay this afternoon and will drop them off in Dundas Harbor on Devon Island tomorrow. From there … well their plan is to ski across the Devon Ice Cap. We wish them good luck!    Leggi altro

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  • Two to TravelIn the Footsteps of Franklin

    Beechey in Presentation Only

    12 agosto 2022, Northwest Passage ⋅ ☁️ 41 °F

    WOW! We certainly rock n’ rolled last night.

    In his wake-up announcement at 7:15a, Christian, our Expedition Leader, said that the waves overnight were in the 15 to 20 feet range … with winds topping out at about 70 knots. He went on to say that the swells were not too bad this morning … the wind, however, was still a-blowing … at sustained speeds of 40-47 knots.

    Christian’s next words came as no surprise. There would be no off-ship operations this morning. No kidding! Nor would we be going to Beechey Island as planned. I had figured this out for myself. After all, when I checked the ship tracker on the TV earlier, it was showing Ultramarine on the east end of Devon Island … nowhere near Beechey on the west side. C’est La Vie.

    The plan now was to ride out the storm until the wind dropped to levels that would allow the captain to turn the ship around so that we could seek shelter in an inlet.

    What to do in the meantime? Going out on deck 5 to walk around the ship wasn’t an option. Not much of a scenery outside to entertain us either. A good time to write and download photos between listening to a fascinating lecture? Sounded good to me.

    I haven’t been writing much about the various lectures we’ve been attending on the ship. I’m going to make an exception in this case as the topic was directly related to what we’d had planned for today.

    The presentation by Ken, our expedition historian, was entitled “Frozen in Ice.” He was to have given this lecture after our proposed landing at Beechey Island … after we’d seen for ourselves the graves of three of the men from the Franklin Expedition. Instead, he brought history to life in words and images.

    The presentation, which came with the warning that there would be images of the dead, was based on a book in which the author, Owen Beattie, writes about how he and his team exhumed the bodies in an effort to determine the cause of death for the men … men who died well before the expedition met trouble … men whose remarkably well-preserved bodies allowed for scientific study after their families gave permission.

    I’d read the book, “Frozen In Time.” Ken’s presentation solidified what I remembered was Beattie’s conclusion. These three men had died from pneumonia and tuberculosis, which was common back in the mid-1800s. But there was also high levels of lead in the three bodies … lead that was suspected to have come from the tinned food with which the expedition was partially provisioned.

    Yes, these men died in the quest of Arctic exploration. Yes, that is tragic. But at least they did not have to endure the long-term sufferings of their shipmates … who eventually met their demise as well. The bones of those shipmates have been scattered across the Arctic tundra. These three men were carefully buried when they died. In fact, many books refer to them as “the lucky ones.”    Leggi altro

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