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Bordeaux & Girona Sept 2024
  • Jo-Lynne Sutherland

Bordeaux & Girona Sept 2024

Fun adventures & great biking in Bordeaux & Girona. もっと詳しく
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  • 旅行の開始
    2024年9月1日
    Jo-Lynne SutherlandBordeaux & Girona Sept 2024旅行者
    Our fav hotel when in GDG airport
    Lots of police patrolling the airportTrains - didn't realize our train was at the north endHome for the next 2 weeksSpacious and quirkyStrange shaped kitchen, but everything works wellDelighted it was still open - most tender chicken I've ever had

    Day 1 Paris & Bordeaux

    2024年9月1日, フランス ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Saturday August 31 we headed off to Paris. Took the UP express, got there in good time, boarded super quickly as Peter told them about the “pain in his butt” and they let us board with the wheelchairs. Great technique. Really should get a note from his doctor so we can pull this off every time. 😉

    We boarded quickly and all was fine until the announcement said the software system was down so they were for checking in the luggage manually. 1.5 hours later we took off.

    Fortunately we had lots of time in Paris on Sunday before our train to Bordeaux, so we headed to our fav hotel at the airport - Sheraton Airport. There we relaxed, had lunch, checked that my European SIM card was working - it was 😀- then went to the train station to try to reserve seats from Bordeaux to Girona. I couldn’t do it online as I’d identified a Spanish line, not French. Using my “ best” French, - they didn’t grimace too much - I was able to change it to a French train and pay for it there. All was fine.

    No problems boarding the train with our reserved seats. It arrived in Bordeaux a bit late, though, but Annie & Daniel, our hosts, were there to meet us and explain how things worked in their home. All sounded super simple - at least on the surface. Getting used to using different appliances is always a challenge. . . .

    Having not slept last night or had any dinner - and it was now about 10pm - we ventured out to find food. Note to self - dont’ travel on Sundays and arrive late as there are very few restaurants open.

    Fortunately we found a great one - Brasserie Le Noailles - never had such tender chicken.

    It was great to hit the sack about midnight.    もっと詳しく

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  • Jo-Lynne SutherlandBordeaux & Girona Sept 2024旅行者
    Ériu tiny restaurant with a lot of charm
    Our new best friend Peppy from AustraliaFerris wheel in Esplanade de QuinoconcesMonument aux Girondins

    Day 2 in Bordeaux

    2024年9月2日, フランス ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Our AirBnB was super quiet & dark so we both slept in - really needed that after being awake all night before.

    After looking at the maps they’d left, we ventured out. It was super simple to get down to the heart of the city - a short walk. On route down we stopped for breakfast at Ériu, a tiny spot with good food. A gregarious Australian, Peppy, greeted us and we got into a good conversation - heard all about his life - been there 4 years, divorced from his French wife, a musician, dancer, who was identifying & promoting new « talent ». Told us the place to go was Market Tavern on Wed evenings. OK will try that.

    Wandering towards the tourist office in Quinconces, we came across the historical Monument aux Girondins - in memory of the Girondin politicians who were killed in the French Revolution 1793-94. Quite spectacular.

    Next stop was the tourist office for more maps & info. We then decided to rent bikes to tour along La Garonne river - not a good idea. This is when the « problems » began.

    At the kiosk we did what we thought we should do - inserted our Visa card - yes we had to leave a deposit of 140 euros, but it would be returned when we brought the bikes back. The problem was - the bikes would not unlock - and they now had our 140 euros ( $209.25). Not good.

    We waited in line at TBM (Transport Bordeaux Metropolitan) office forever - queue was crazy long with students purchasing passes - so left. Oh well, will have to solve that problem tomorrow.

    On route home we stopped at Carrefour and stocked up on groceries.
    Making dinner that night was a real challenge. It’s always hard settling into a new place- but as this is their home - they’d moved to their « cottage » on the Bay of Biscay - there was too much of everything - pots, pans, utensils, etc,etc. Then there was the challenge of the induction stove, weird oven etc etc. By 10pm I had our lovely salmon dinner ready. Note to self - on day 2 just heat up a pizza.    もっと詳しく

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  • Jo-Lynne SutherlandBordeaux & Girona Sept 2024旅行者
    Porte Dijeaux, in Place Gambetta
    Pierre Qui Roule - best bikes we've ever rented.Lovely lady in the bike shopTour Pey-Berland at Cathédral St-AndréCrowded St Catherine's StreetSt André Cathedral

    Day 3 Finding Bikes

    2024年9月3日, フランス ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    First stop was to wander down to the TBM office to try to cancel the 140 Euros. Again the queue was horrendous, but a young guy came down the line and helped us out.

    Seems this office was only for those buying passes, so I had to file a claim on line. So glad he helped me with that. Now we just have to wait and see. . . . .

    Next stop was to find real bikes - with no hassle. The tourist office gave us several suggestions and we chose Pierre Qui Roule. Not only was it situated in Place Gambetta, with a lot of charm, but the lovely lady there was sweet and helpful. We’ve now lined up 2 new, good bikes for tomorrow - Wed & Thursday. Happiness is . . . .

    The rest of the day we walked about and tried to get a real sense of the city.
    Making dinner that night was easier than last night.    もっと詳しく

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  • Jo-Lynne SutherlandBordeaux & Girona Sept 2024旅行者
    St Andre Cathedral
    At André CathédralArches encourging sports, and framing Port CailhauWorkout at Parc des SportsMiroir d'eau - one of the world's largest reflecting poolLot of naked little ones running about - so sweetPont Jacques Chaban - DelmasPause for a delish Lebanese lunchSunset in Marché des ChartronsDinner in Chartrons

    Day 4 Biking About

    2024年9月4日, フランス ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    We picked up our bikes about 10am and headed off. Soooo much to see. Bordeaux is the most bike friendly city we’ve ever been in - lovely long paths along each side of La Garonne River, tons of walking streets, large separate lanes for bikes, other lanes for bikes & busses. On occasion you have to go down the tram tracks - being careful not to get caught in the tracks - but if a tram comes, it stops and you can quickly get over.

    Sooo many pics today as we biked about - around the river, over the bridges, & through many parts of town. Parks, statues & monuments everywhere - lots of people running, scooting, biking, and working out & playing in the parks. Loved it.

    As our « new best friend » Peppy had told us to go to Market Tavern Wed night, we wandered down to the Marché des Chartrons area for dinner first, then to the Tavern. Dinner was good but unfortunately the Tavern was not our scene - packed with young folks and loud screaming live music. We didn’t last long there.    もっと詳しく

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  • Jo-Lynne SutherlandBordeaux & Girona Sept 2024旅行者
    Aesthetic ping pong tables all along the water
    Lovely bike path heading south towards St ÉmilionBike path heading south eastGot as far as Sadirac - about 20 KPause for a quick late lunch at a converted old train stop.Murals being painted around Fleshe (arrow) St-MicheleSuch talentLots of room to store our bikes insideArtists at work

    Day 5 biking in the countryside

    2024年9月5日, フランス ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    We headed off to explore some of the bike routes outside the city today. They’re lovely - expansive and well maintained. There are parks everywhere, work out stations for adults, playgrounds for kids, basketball courts, even a huge patch of sand with volleyball nets. Loved the aesthetic ping pong tables set up along the paths - lots being used. People here seem active and super fit.

    Our bike route took us south east of Bordeaux along the Garonne River, then through lovely forests - so peaceful. We got as far as Sadirac, about 20 K, then turned back. 2:40 we paused for lunch at an old converted train station - problem being, they stop serving lunch at 2:30pm. So crazy . . . . we’ve been caught like this before so should have known. Fortunately, they agreed to bring us either an omelette or Caesar salad. We ordered both and they were delish .

    Heading back into to town we searched out Basilique St Michele and it’s adjoining Flèche (arrow). It was crowded with people, plus lots of artists painting murals on the barricade around La Flèche as it’s being renovated.

    We also checked out Gare St. Jean, where we arrived, and Marche des Capucins, where we’ll go Sunday.

    All in all a great day - went about 50 K by the time we got home.

    Oh, an email from TBM said they won’t reimburse our 140 Euros for 2-4 weeks. Lesson learned - do not use the kiosks when renting city bikes in France. We also had a problem when we were in Nice . . . . should have learned . . .    もっと詳しく

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  • Jo-Lynne SutherlandBordeaux & Girona Sept 2024旅行者
    Cité du Vin
    Selection of free wines for today. Chose Bordeaux Sainte-Foy. Peter chose Bordeaux Francs CotesView from the 6th floor wrap around deckVariety of grapesProcessShould have been stamping on the grapesDigital dinnerTesting Peter's sense of smellMenu we selected and our paired wine choices. Not bad.

    Day 6 Citè du Vin

    2024年9月6日, フランス ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    A rainy day today and we’d returned our bikes, so decided to see how the trams work and visit Cité du Vin.

    Trams are modern, efficient and easy to use - just purchase a ticket at a kiosk - 1.8 euros for 1 hour or 5 E for 24 hours - take the ticket, get on and tap the white machine. Must say, like in TO, most people didn’t seem to be tapping, but perhaps they have annual passes.

    Citè du Vin is well worth the visit. It’s not cheap - E22 - but is modern, aesthetic, and has a large wrap around deck on the 6th floor where you can sip your free glass of wine while overlooking the city. There are lots of choices and knowledgeable people to describe each one in detail.

    The 2nd floor has the main exhibit. Using headphones, and tapping at each station, they describe in detail everything you may want to know about wine. Wish I could remember 1/10 of what I heard and saw. There are also stations where you can test your sense of smell, and plan a menu selecting the appropriate wines. Yes, also a room that recreates digitally an elegant dinner - wish I’d taken more pics of that - and funny clips from new & old films focussing on wine, plus so much more.

    Heading home we took the trams to the main square, Esplanade des Quinconces, and walked home from there. Dinner at home again - must say I’m finally getting more efficient in the kitchen.    もっと詳しく

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  • Jo-Lynne SutherlandBordeaux & Girona Sept 2024旅行者
    Cathedral St - André on route out of the city
    Tai Chi performance - one of many different shows going on.Univerisité de BordeauxSmall market next to the University promoting sportsOld Église du Prieure de CayakThere was an art exhibit insideOne of many protests here, this one pro PalestineAfternoon beers back at Cathedral St-Andrè1

    Day 7 Biking Boucle des Châteaux

    2024年9月7日, フランス ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    We ventured out today trying to use All Trails to find the 31 K route called Boucle des Châteaux - so frustrating. I had downloaded the map and gave my phone to Peter to follow the route, but the phone kept shutting down & we kept heading off in the wrong direction.

    We did see some interesting sites on route though - old church in Cayak, Bordeaux University, small markets, etc. We finally gave up on All Trails and used Google maps to get us back to Pont St Jean. From there we knew our way home.

    Being about 5:30 now, without lunch, it was time for a pause. We found a sunny table at Cathedral St Andrè and enjoyed the beer and people watching.

    We have the bikes now until Tuesday morning - just hope the weather cooperates. It’s been quite rainy & cold so far.    もっと詳しく

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  • Jo-Lynne SutherlandBordeaux & Girona Sept 2024旅行者
    Not open, a private event happening.
    Posing in the Public ParkKids park - carousel, climbing structures and mist fountain that the kids love.Public Park - so tranquil and quietMilitary tanks & antique car show in Esplanade des QuinconcesAll kinds of antique cars - our old Honda Prelude would have fit in just fineSanna - 7 foot sculpture by Jaume Plensa built in 2014Break dancer performing for the crowdThe scene on Sunday afternoonSwing dancers - have a great video but can only post 1 video - tough choiceYoung hip hop dancers having fun

    Day 8 Sunday Exploring About

    2024年9月8日, フランス ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Peter wasn’t feeling well, so I ventured out alone.

    Was hoping to get to Marché des Capucins, but it was only open 5:30 - 2:00 pm - a no go for me. Instead I ventured out on my bike in search of a nearby cultural centre, then headed down to the public park, then to the heart of the city to see what was happening there.

    The place was hopping - antique car show, swing dancers, break dancer / gymnast, young hip hop dancers, tons of people milling about. The pics and video say more than words.    もっと詳しく

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  • Jo-Lynne SutherlandBordeaux & Girona Sept 2024旅行者
    Bordeaux Nord Private Clinic
    Checking in - shocked at the priceBus 9 to the public hospital Chu PelegrínChecking inThe sceneGetting back home on Tram A then D

    Day 9 Not what we planned

    2024年9月9日, フランス ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Such a weird day. As Peter wasn’t feeling well yesterday - pains in his chest - we decided to have it checked out. We contacted our host who suggested a nearby private clinic.

    We walked there - half an hour- and were quickly and politely received. When Peter told his symptoms, they quickly calculated what it would be a minimum of $800 euros- $1,200 Cdn. YIKES - that was a no go.

    They said we could go to the public hospital - Chu Pelligrin - and it would be free. Right? ???? They gave us directions to the tram, which we couldn’t find, we then ended up taking bus 9 there. Another new experience. 😉

    We arrived at 5:15pm and were quickly checked in - they didn’t ask the reason why. We then waited until 6:15 until a nurse came and asked what the symptoms were. By 6:30 we were still waiting, so Peter decided enough was enough and we left. He was feeling OK, and we saw others being called in before he was.

    Interesting to check out other medical systems. Here there’s obviously public and private systems. As we had checked into emergency in both, we noticed that the public system had lots of ambulance staff standing round with their patients - like in TO. Such a waste of time & money. Surely there are qualified hospital staff who could take over once the patient arrives. . . .

    Heading home was easy - found tram line A then transferred to D. We’re getting to be old hands at this public transit stuff.

    Bottom line - Peter feels fine now. He’ll check out this episode when we get home.    もっと詳しく

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  • Jo-Lynne SutherlandBordeaux & Girona Sept 2024旅行者
    Heading off from Gare St Jean
    Vineyards everywhere heavy with grapesPlace du Clocher - heart of the cityBottles as big as they get.Lovely winding streetsPaused for lunch - tiniest bathroom ever. I could barely fit inLe Cloître des CordeliersQuick cat nap at La Porte BrunetLooking down on the lower town where we paused for a glass of wine - had to do that.View while sipping local wine

    Day 10 St Emilion

    2024年9月10日, フランス ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    Beautiful sunny day here at last, so we decided to take the train to St Émilion, a world heritage site nearby known for its fine wines. So many friends had recommended it, we thought we should go.

    We got up early, dropped our bikes off by 9:30 am, then took tram D to the train station. Must say, we’re starting to figure out the tram systems and are super impressed - clean, efficient & work well.

    We decided not to use 1 day from our 5 day rail pass as St Émilion is super close. Using the kiosk, we quickly booked our tickets - 34 euros for 2 - and headed off. There was no reserved seating, but we easily found a seat.

    Arriving at St Emilion, it was a good 15 minute walk uphill to the lower town, with lovely vineyards everywhere. We then headed up a super steep cobblestone path to the upper town. Once up, the view from Place du Clocher down to the lower town and surrounding area was amazing.

    Our problem, though, is that it seemed too touristy- swarms of people following shouting tour guides holding large signs. Not our scene. Although the town is steeped in history, charming & aesthetic, we were glad we chose to spend 2 weeks in Bordeaux and experience « La vraie vie » rather than stay here.

    Heading back to Bordeaux at 5:00pm, there were tons of people waiting on the platform, so I had to spread my elbows and be assertive. Seeing no free seats, finally in my «  best » French I explained to a young French guy that my husband really needed a seat - and he kindly obliged. Really have to play this « elderly card » as much as possible. 😉

    Interesting - on the train there and back, no one checked our tickets. Even on Tram D heading home we sat next to the entrance and noted that only half the people paid - those not paying were mostly young men.

    All in all a great day.    もっと詳しく

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  • Jo-Lynne SutherlandBordeaux & Girona Sept 2024旅行者
    Active carousel even on a rainy day
    1866 Statue in Charles Gruet squareSpecial places for dropping off bottlesWeird washer & dryer. Quite the challenge figuring them outSize of coffee cups and wine glasses here at our AirBnBOur hosts left us with a box of chocolates from here - delishAmazing selection. Cocoa beans come from abroad, but chocolates are made hereSource of the beansWhere we shop each & every dayMonument aux Girondins - impressive even in the rain.Fun video that I couldn't upload earlier as I can only post 1 per day

    Day 11 - Relax & Reflect

    2024年9月11日, フランス ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Not being able to watch the Harris -Trump debate yesterday - 3:00 am here - and being a cool rainy day - it was perfect for watching the whole debate a day later, and reflecting a bit.

    Debate : Must say Kamala aced it - smart, articulate, warm, positive. She knew how to push Trump’s buttons and he reacted instantly & angrily showing his true colours. Hope lots of undecided Americans were watching.

    Reflecting: It’s so interesting seeing the small - yet significant - differences between Canada & France - at least here in Bordeaux . Here bikers and pedestrians rule supreme. There are bike lanes everywhere. When one enters a crosswalk on bike or on foot - cars stop.

    Appliances - washers & dryers take forever. 2 hours for a wash, another 2 to dry, and the machines are weird. When opening them, one is faced with a huge drum. You have to roll it about and figure out how to open it. Coffee & wine glasses are tiny - perhaps why the French are so lean.

    Garbage: garbage is picked up twice a week, recycle is picked up once, and glass bottles have to be taken to a special bin. It actually makes sense.

    They love their “vin, fromage et chocolat” - shops everywhere. Our host kindly left us the French essentials - full box of Nespresso capsules, chocolates from a boutique shop, Hasnaá, bottled water and fresh orange juice. Happiness is . . . .

    A few pics on a rainy day - the place was hopping - busy outdoor cafés, kids on carousels, people walking, scooting, biking about.

    Still have to get pics of some of our fav places near by - boulangerie, poissonnerie, etc etc    もっと詳しく

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  • Jo-Lynne SutherlandBordeaux & Girona Sept 2024旅行者
    Train to Arcachon leaving at 10:04 - on time
    Bike rental shop - reasonable prices, good bikesFirst view of the Atlantic OceanLoved the bright red benches everywhere.Peter always finds a work out stationSteps down to the Dunes du PilatOnce down, a carpet leading to the base of the dunesPause for lunch overlooking the oceanCouldn't resist the red benches - they were everywhereIf all the boat owners live in Arcachon, there are tons of people

    Day 12 Arcachon on the Atlantic Ocean

    2024年9月12日, フランス ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Such a great day. Being so close to the Atlantic Ocean we thought we should check it out.

    Turns out getting there was super simple. Used 1 day from our Eurorail pass, down loaded the tickets onto my phone, and we headed off. Can’t imagine how I would function without a European SIM card. Only $35 and it’s good for the whole month.

    Tram D took us to the station in about 30 minutes - in good time for our train to Arcachon. No trouble finding a seat - chose the upper level.

    At the tourist office we asked about renting bikes. They suggested several places, so we chose the closest - 2 Roule Loc. For E$ 13 each for the day, we were good to go.

    Arcachon is charming - 200K of bike paths, aesthetic shops & restaurants, miles of sandy beaches. We could easily spend several days here - perhaps a couple of weeks.

    We took the bike path to La Dune du Pilat - largest sand dune in Europe - pausing along the way for pics etc, and about 1.5 hours later arrived at a look out point. We weren’t sure we were at the right place, but saw a long set of stairs heading down, so wandered down.

    Turns out, while the cars & buses are routed to the top of the dunes, we cyclists, after walking down the stairs, were at the bottom. This was much better - gave such a good perspective on the enormity of the dunes.

    Must say, though, having lived in Saudi and having spent numerous weekends in the huge dunes there, we weren’t quite as impressed as perhaps others are.

    Heading back we paused for lunch at a lovely spot overlooking the ocean, then biked from there through town as far as the bike path went - which was extensive.

    We caught the 5:00 pm train back - and for the first time since we’ve arrived, they actually checked our tickets. Fortunately I could quickly pull up our Digital Eurail passes so all was fine.

    All in all a great day.    もっと詳しく

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  • Jo-Lynne SutherlandBordeaux & Girona Sept 2024旅行者
    Wine - always a key shop in French markets
    Huge variety of fishCouldn't resist this cute cow.Miroir d'eau - a memorable landmarkView when we paused for lunchVan Gogh - total immersion1 of the 50 Dutch artists - not sure whoLooking from Pont Jacques ChabanFlea markets pop up somewhere most daysMy 77th and feeling good

    Day 13 My 77th Birthday

    2024年9月13日, フランス ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    77, happy & feeling fine. 🤩

    It’s great having a B-Day in September because we’re often travelling. Would be fun to pull together all those pics and see where all we’ve been.

    The sun was shining as we headed off on our bikes to hit some of the spots in Bordeaux we hadn’t seen as yet - Marché des Capucines and Bassins des Lumières.

    The market was an wonderful mix of colours, smells, sights & sounds. The pics say more than words.

    Bassins des Lumieres is unique - a huge German submarine bunker that was left there after WWII that’s been turned into an immersive digital arts centre. This presentation was the Dutch Masters - Vermeer to Van Gogh. It was amazing - powerful music, huge walls and ever changing images totally surrounding us.

    We’ve seen similar Van Gogh presentations - in a cave at Baux-de-Provence, (incredible) in Avignon and in Toronto. This exhibition was unique, though, due to its setting and the inclusion of 325 artworks by 50 different Dutch painters. I got a little carried away taking pics & videos.

    The night ended with a birthday dinner at Brasserie Le Noailles - the same restaurant we’d found the first night we arrived. Lovely ambiance, excellent food & wine.

    I was delighted to get so many warm birthday wishes from all our girls and many friends.    もっと詳しく

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  • Jo-Lynne SutherlandBordeaux & Girona Sept 2024旅行者
    Landmark Ferris wheel - lovely in the sun
    Darwin eco - centreLots of NGOsMaking organic chocolate60% - 90 % chocolate. Whatever you wishEven local organic beerNative rightsCute posterPont Jacques Chaban Delmas rising to let a cruise ship throughPark with tons of sand for beach volleyballSuper active skate park. Loved seeing the younger ones there

    Day 14 Last day in Bordeau

    2024年9月14日, フランス ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Our last day was exactly what we’d wished for - sunny & warm. Our plan - head off on our bikes and visit places we hadn’t discovered as yet.

    Stop one - Darwin Eco-Centre, an abandoned military barracks on the right bank that was redeveloped in 2011 to focus on environmental issues. The pics say more than I could. Love how they redevelop places that could have negative vibes and make them into positive experiences.

    Other stops were to « people watch » - always good fun. Bordeaux brags about becoming the skateboard capitol of Europe. Loved seeing all the little ones there. Plus there were the bikers, runners, beach volley ball players, and lots of people strolling along the river and around town.

    Other highlights included seeing all the cruise ships docked there - amazing how they get down the small Garonne river from the Atlantic. There were also smaller river cruise ships, which make more sense.

    Interesting watching the Pont Jacques Chaban bridge open to let the huge boats pass - the whole middle section rose up, and slowly came back down again.

    Bottom line - Bordeaux is well worth a visit. They seem to be doing everything right to make it a vibrant liveable city and keep their people active & heathy. In 2020 they had 27K of connected bike paths. 2024, they now have 40.5 K, plus more in the plans. Certainly our kind of place.

    Tomorrow we head off to Spain - a whole new experience.    もっと詳しく

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  • Jo-Lynne SutherlandBordeaux & Girona Sept 2024旅行者
    We passed through Toulouse on route to Gironda
    Stopped in NarbonnePaused for drinks & dinner in NarbonneScene in Narbonne near our restaurantNarbonne also is steeped in historyView of the Mediterranean from the trainWalkway towards our "new" home - on the left under the arch1Home for the next 2 weeks - bright & airyView towards the kitchen

    Day 15 Girona Spain

    2024年9月15日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Today was a travel day. We checked out about 11am, taking Tram D we got to the train station in good time. Our train was to Narbonne France - but getting from there to Girona Spain was a problem.

    The train I wanted was a Spanish high speed train AVI but I couldn’t reserve a seat - seems it’s not part of the Eurail pass. ☹️

    OK plan B. I was able to book seats on a French TGV train, but it meant we had a 3 hour layover on Narbonne.

    No worries. We wandered our way to the heart of the city and found a good spot for drinks and dinner - which actually worked out well because once again we were travelling on a Sunday - what not to do- and chances are, nothing would be open when we arrived.

    Our AirBnB host Sara met us there and showed us around. Seems we chose well - our place is aesthetic and well located.    もっと詳しく

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  • Jo-Lynne SutherlandBordeaux & Girona Sept 2024旅行者
    View from the living room in the morning
    Red Bridge (Pont de Les Peixateries Velles) designed by Eiffel before he built the Eiffel Tower5 different bins for garbageLooking from the Eiffel bridgeLove the colourful buildingsTypical street near our placeThe nearby cathedralEnjoying a mega beer in Plaça de la Independència, the main squareMain street on the Onyar RiverSeen from our window in the late afternoon

    Day 16 Exploring Girona

    2024年9月16日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Today was a wandering exploring day.

    Must say Girona is soooo picturesque- 6 bridges, colour buildings along the water and historical buildings everywhere.

    Our place is located in the old town, in a small plaza near all the historical sites but hidden away and super quiet. Spanish families come with their kids in the late afternoon - there’s a play structure there and very few other play areas that we saw for kids, but by 8:00 pm all is quiet.

    So many beautiful buildings and so much history.    もっと詳しく

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  • Jo-Lynne SutherlandBordeaux & Girona Sept 2024旅行者
    Path along the walls encircling the old town
    Spiral staircases heading up to amazing views1View from the topIncredible views of the old cityHeading back down along the wallLots of city bikesLioness beside the Basilica de Sant Felix - you're supposed to kiss its "ass" for good luckMet up with Peter on his route back1Peter's 45 K bike ride

    Day 17 Walking the wall around the city

    2024年9月17日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Today Peter checked out the bike paths, and I wandered along the wall encircling the old city.

    Loved my day - from the cathedral I was able to find the walking path along the ancient walls encircling the old town. Was delighted that there very few people along the route so I could really enjoy it.

    The pics & video tell most of the story, so I won’t say more. Such spectacular views from on high.

    I was able to find my way back home from the end of the path, stopping to grocery shop on route back, then headed over to the West Bank to check out the huge Parc de la Devesa. Heading back I got a bit lost, but eventually found my way back to meet Peter.

    Meanwhile, Peter had had a lovely 45 K bike tour along the water, through the same large park I’d visited, then he’d headed outside the city. I’m glad he scouted it out so I’ll join him later this week.

    Must say I was shocked at the price for renting bikes here. Yes it’s a bikers «  heaven » but they’re certainly capitalizing on it. In Bordeaux we paid 14 euros a day, in Arcachon 12 euros. Here they’re charging 30 minimum for a city bike plus 5 for a helmet. YIKES for 2 of us that’s 70 euros a day- $95. That’s crazy. Must say that’s part of the reason why I didn’t bike today.    もっと詳しく

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  • Jo-Lynne SutherlandBordeaux & Girona Sept 2024旅行者
    1Street around the corner from our place
    Another view of the path along the wallGreat place for lunch1How healthy is that - except perhaps for my beerWalking through the Jewish QuarterHome in the Jewish quarterArab BathsDescription of the bathsClimbing up to a separate section of the wallLovely blue benches here - red in Arcachon

    Day 18 Exploring about

    2024年9月18日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Today was a big walking day.

    Peter hadn’t walked the wall, so we started there. We didn’t take the same route I’d taken yesterday - interesting how many different paths there are up there.

    Although it wasn’t as sunny as yesterday, there were still lovely views, and very few people. A couple of hours later, we paused for lunch at Bolj - super choice - healthy keto choices as shown in the pic.

    From there we wandered through the Jewish section - to be honest I couldn’t figure out how it was different - then went to the Arab Baths - so interesting.

    We’d seen the Roman Baths in Bath England, so were curious to see how they compared. The Roman baths, built between 60 and 70 AD, are much larger and more elaborate. These were built in 1194, carved into the rocks and much smaller - only 5 rooms, each with a specific function - vestibule, cold room, warm room, bathing room, sauna. Interesting that they were able to create all that way back then - for men only, mind you. 😣

    For Game of Thrones followers - we are not - season 6 was filmed in Girona, including these Baths.

    From there we scouted out a whole new section of the wall to walk - totally separate from the main wall, with almost no one there. Lots of climbing up & down narrow paths & staircases. Pics tell it all.

    12,126 steps later we arrived back “home” happy to relax, sip our beers, search out adventures for tomorrow, and have dinner.    もっと詳しく

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  • Jo-Lynne SutherlandBordeaux & Girona Sept 2024旅行者
    View heading over the bridge by our place
    My mountain bike, Peter's cruiserHeading through a huge beautiful park - Jardin de la DevesaPeter always finds a work out stationCame across kayakers having good fun.Paused for pizza & beers at a super tiny place in BonmatíHeading back into town under the railway tracks - needed our rain jackets41.5 K mostly along lovely bike pathsBack in Girona looking at the Eiffel bridge from the west sideAbsolutely love the view from the Eiffel bridgeSuch fun

    Day 19 - Biking Adventure

    2024年9月19日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Today was a biking day. Peter had scouted out a good ride the other day, so we decided to head that way again.

    He’d tried to book bikes the night before, but RBC complicated the process and his payment didn’t go through. Arriving at Cycle Tours about 10 am there were only large men’s bikes available. There was no way I could get my old inflexible legs over that high bar. 🙁 l ended up on a extra small mountain bike and loved it - great suspension and the fat tires made it seem super safe.

    We headed off through a lovely huge park - Jardin de la Devesa - then out of the city. The bike path was well marked, so even we couldn’t get lost. We followed the river and chanced upon a group of kayakers having good fun. See pics.

    Pausing for pizza & beers at a tiny place in Bonmartí, we couldn’t believe how cheap it was compared to Girona.

    After trying to find a different route back, we finally gave up. Must confess, I purchased AllTrails, plus downloaded Ride with GPS, but both apps totally confuse me. Really have to spend some time trying to figure them out - would eliminate a lot of stress 😉

    Heading back we were caught in the rain, but fortunately had our rain jackets. Rather than head back through the park, we went another way and ended up seeing sooooo much more of the city. Must say, bikes are the way to go - fast, efficient, and really let you see and appreciate your surroundings.

    Couldn’t resist taking a few more pics of the lovely bridges and colourful houses while walking back home.

    All in all a great day. 😀    もっと詳しく

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  • Jo-Lynne SutherlandBordeaux & Girona Sept 2024旅行者
    Place de la Independènci - heart of the city
    Monument to the defenders of Girona against sieges by the French in 1808 - 1809Bikers pausing for drinksBikers heading back into townFav grocery store near the Eiffel bridge - there almost every dayLove the reflections in the Onyar RiverTrying to show how close our place is to the Basilica de Sant Felui - through the arc at the endFriday night- active with young familiesYes, even here they're on cell phones - but only brieflyScene from our window - honing their soccer skills

    Day 20 Relax & Plan

    2024年9月20日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    A bit rainy today, so a good day to relax & plan.

    Was able to book several trips - Girona to Barcelona this Sunday, and here to Gare du Lyon in Paris next Sunday.

    Must say I’m getting more comfortable using Rail Planner to book trains using our Eurail pass, plus find trains we can pay for directly. My problem is that for most longer rides, you have to reserve seats, and AVE, the Spanish rapid transit train line, doesn’t seem to be part of the Eurail system ☹️

    Also, when reserving seats, they want a hard copy. I was able to print out most of our seat reservations prior to leaving, but for Girona back to Paris I’ll have to go to the station to get print outs.

    Mission accomplished on the bookings, I wandered out to explore more - pics say more than words.

    Some observations:
    Garbage - is not collected. You have to take it to a nearby drop off place that has 5 colored bins - good luck figuring out what goes where. I bundled up 2 of our 4 bins - paper & metal - and headed out. Trust I put them in the right bins.

    Music - what’s missing here, at least for me, is music. There are no live bands or entertainment in the various squares - unlike Bordeaux, or San Miguel de Allende where there’s live music & dancing everywhere.

    Berries & fresh fish - so difficult to find - when you see them, buy them. We’ve been buying a lot of frozen fish.

    Bikers - this is bikers « heaven ». Seems the serious Tour de France bikers train here. Also seems we’ve come during the most popular month - Sept - so bikes are scarcer and prices are higher. I keep seeing pelotons of serious bikers passing by - but haven’t been able to get any good pics yet, hopefully later.

    Must say I love the view from our window. The small square is obviously a local meeting place for young families - especially on Friday nights & weekends. Enjoy seeing so many Dad’s playing with their kids and the kids so active - a glimpse into local life here.    もっと詳しく

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  • Jo-Lynne SutherlandBordeaux & Girona Sept 2024旅行者
    UEA girl in biking gear with her headscarf under her helmet
    Saturday market in Devesa ParkMy kind of workout station - some serious biking????Artist with his hand made designs - Love my little coin purseSea Otter Europe - bike races & exhibitionPeter chatting with one of the organizers100 K mostly uphillExhibition grounds - sooo many high end productsLots of high end bikesBike created in Canada but now owed by a Dutch companySome of the famous bikers from this regionBikes locked up ready for tomorrow's raceBikers into the final 1K of a 100K routeDownpour - not fun riding in that.

    Day 21 Sea Otter Bike Festival

    2024年9月21日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Little did we know, but Girona was hosting the Sea Otter Europe Bike Races & Festival Sept 20-22. That explains why we’ve seen so many bikers here all in the same outfits.

    I especially liked seeing several girls with UAE shirts (United Arab Emirates) all decked out in high quality biking gear, but with head scarves under their helmets. Good on them.

    We headed out early morning to La Commune, a breakfast / lunch place around the corner that’s a fav for bikers. It was packed, but we managed to find seats and breakfast was delish.

    From there we headed to the train station - I’d successfully booked our train tickets from here to Gare du Lyon in Paris for next Sunday, and reserved our seats, but it said we had to print out the seat reservations. Such a pain - who carries a printer with them ☹️.

    At the train station they said they couldn’t print the tickets and sent us to a nearby shop. The grouchy man there said it would cost 30. I assumed 30 euros - YIKES $45 😖. I quickly checked my Visa card and realized it was $1.50 - obviously lost in translation. . . . Don’t understand why the email showing QR codes for our booked seats wasn’t enough. Oh well. ..

    From there we searched out the Saturday market in the park - colourful & active per usual - and found a work out station that was my kind of place - open air & easy. While there we heard lots of noise coming from across the water, but didn’t know why.

    Heading back, we noticed market stalls set up on the bridges. One shop caught my eye - small bags with unique designs. Fortunately the artist spoke English so we had a delightful conversation with him as he explained how & why he created each of his designs. I rarely purchase anything, but bought a tiny pouch to hold coins - great memento.

    Next stop was a local bike shop called 21 and another fun conversation ensued. Seems this young British girl had come here 4 years ago with her bike and never left. She’s now married to a Gironian and was a wonderful source of info about the city and all the bike trails.

    She was the one who told us about Sea Otter Europe, the 8th annual biking festival in Girona - 6000+ participants and races for both competitive and amateur bikers, also a huge exhibition with the best biking brands on the market. It was quite the scene.

    The major race was 100K uphill - the winners did it in 4 hours. As they’d started at 10 and we arrived there about 2:00, we were able to see some of the front runners passing by.

    As luck would have it, we’d unintentionally wandered onto the biking path, so I got some pics of the bikers heading into their final 1 K. One of the organizers, hustled us off the path, but also explained more about the event. The pics & video capture is better than I can explain.

    Heading home we paused for beers at Indépendance Square, then searched Sunset Jazz Club around the corner from our place - will check that out next week.

    Another GREAT day    もっと詳しく

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  • Jo-Lynne SutherlandBordeaux & Girona Sept 2024旅行者
    Overlooking the city from the Miramar stop
    Parc de l'EspanyaFace of Barcelona by Roy LichtensteinPlaça de Catalina's - pigeons everywhereSagrada Familia - my favModel of Sagrada Familia- brown spirals are yet to be builtLoved these little go carsKids amusement park on one of the main streetsView from Pont de Sant Feliu, GironaBasilíca & Catedral at nightRestaurant next to the BasilicaCharming restaurant in "our" courtyardCombo wine store, book shop & tapas

    Day 22 Barcelona

    2024年9月22日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Being so close to Barcelona, we decided it was a “must see” so used one of our travel days.

    It was well worth the the trip. Barcelona is huge, the train station itself is overwhelming. You can’t even exit it without showing your ticket / QR code.

    The frustrating part was there’s no tourist office there or anywhere nearby, so we had to Google map the closest one. What did we do before cell phones?? When we finally found one, it was nothing but a booth selling tickets for the hop on hop off bus. When we asked, she said there were no tourist buildings per say just these booths - seriously . . . . 🤨.

    Having limited time, and wanting to get an overview of the city we hopped on the bus. The red & blue routes took us to all the key landmarks - all 30 of them.
    The highlight for me was Sagrada Familia, the largest unfinished Catholic church in the world. It was designed by Antoni Gaudi, and at the time of his death in 1926 was only 1/4 finished. Funded through private donations, it continues to be built and is expected to be completed by 2026, complete with 18 spirals.

    Heading back “home” the Cathedral & Basilica near our place were lit up beautifully. Being late, we popped into the restaurant in “our” courtyard - Somia Vins I Llibres. It’s charming - a combo of wine shop, book store and tapas. Will definitely be going back.    もっと詳しく

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  • Jo-Lynne SutherlandBordeaux & Girona Sept 2024旅行者
    Another entry to Parc de la Devesa
    Workout stations, like in Bordeaux, are well usedWhile Peter was stretching suddenly a whole group of school kids arrivedA rush of school kidsArches through the wallAmazing architecturePic says it allPause to stretch & meditatePeter's artsy shot - Caption: Bowed but not broken - just like me. 😉Wandering through the old townFun encounter with young university studentsPeter rarely takes pics - had to capture thisLots of fun t-shirts hereHad to pause for beers in front of the Catedral - great people watchingFly on the wall near our placeGirona loves their flies - long history behind it

    Day 23 Learning more about Girona

    2024年9月23日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We were hoping to bike today, but the forecast said rain - totally wrong, it was a lovely day.

    We headed off first to Cycle Tours to book bikes for Wed & Thurs, then to our fav nearby park - Devesa. The workout stations here, like in Bordeaux, are well used. Wish I’d taken a video of the amazing « tricks » the guys were doing here.

    From there we wandered along the outside of the wall, then stopped at the base of the Catedral for drinks and people watching.

    A group of young university students approached us. Seems they were on a type of scavenger hunt. With our broken Spanish, and their limited English, and lots of laughs, they said they’d give us a paper clip in exchange for something we had. The only thing we could quickly find was a straw from the cafe. They seemed delighted, took pics of us and headed off. I, of course, got pics of them - a fun encounter.

    Although I’ve been taking pics of the street leading to our place, and we’ve seen lots of guided tours there, I didn’t realize the significance of it. It seems that flies are revered here, and have an historical significance. Right next to our place is Hotel Museu Llegendes de Girona and Salvador Dali Museum, with a huge fly on the wall. Around the corner is a street called Cerrer De Les Mosques (flies)

    Researching a bit it seems that Girona has been attacked 25 times and captured at least 7 times. During the French siege in 1286, soldiers ransacked the entire city including the churches. They tore open the tomb of Saint Narcis and a swarm of flies flew out of the tomb and attached the French causing them to retreat. There’s a festival every Oct 29 to celebrate this.

    According to the myths here, if we kiss the “ass” of the lioness, and touch one of the Sant Narcis flies we will be granted “miracles” . . . . Stay tuned . . .    もっと詳しく

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  • Jo-Lynne SutherlandBordeaux & Girona Sept 2024旅行者
    Fun sketch in Somia restaurant - yes to flies
    Idle Hands Cafe another bikers favCan't resist pics from the bridgesSteep stairs everywhereStairs to somewhere newInteresting links between buildingsGirona University - Education, Psychology DepartmentsCourtyard in the UniversityStudents in the courtyardJewish History Museum - on our "to do" listJewish museum - was told not to take picsInteresting images everywhereCity HallCity Hall - air quality and how to deal with the fliesWalking through here I thought I was being attacked - was only acorns falling from the treesAcorn I thought was attacking me 🤪Delighted to finally find some Spanish street music

    Day 24 More Discoveries

    2024年9月24日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    It was supposed to rain all day, but turned out to be beautiful - warm & sunny. So much for weather forecasts here. . . .

    We started off at “our” courtyard cafe, Somia, for delish coffee & croissants, then Peter headed off to rent bikes for Friday, and I wandered the city.

    There are no end of places to discover here - every steep staircase takes you somewhere different. I just kept heading up . . .

    My highlights were finally finding some live street music - not great but entertaining - plus discovering new sites - Idle Hands, a bikers fav that’s hidden away, Jewish History Museum, City Hall, University, Municipal Theatre - plus couldn’t resist taking more pics from the bridges.

    It’s a place even I can’t get lost in. The Onyar River dissects the city with the old section on the east and new on the west. There are 4 rivers that converge here, but in the heart of the city there’s only the Onyar. The wall encircles the old town, and is a good 1.5 hour walk along the major section.

    On route back home, wandering near the Basilica, I thought I was being attached - loud crashing sounds all around me. There was a huge gust of wind and it turns out the noise was from acorns falling on the cars parked along the route. A lovely British lady explained what was happening and we picked up some of the acorns Another new experience . . .

    Meanwhile, Peter had headed to Eat, Sleep, Cycle to rent city bikes for Friday, then went on a super long walk along the river on the west side.

    We met up near our place for drinks and to swap stories.    もっと詳しく

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  • Jo-Lynne SutherlandBordeaux & Girona Sept 2024旅行者
    52 K ride to the coast
    In the middle of nowhereSant Feliu de Guixois on the Costa BravaPaused for well deserved beers and delish seafood lunchLots of wind surfers enjoying the strong windsMiles & miles of beachHouses built into the hillsBeautiful scenes everywhere you lookEven real kayaks -Peter's kind of placeSo many boatsAlso historical buildings hereGirona at nightStunning

    Day 25 Biking 52K to the Costa Brava

    2024年9月25日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    What a great day. We picked up our bikes about 10am and headed off to Sant Felix de Guixois. The guys at Cycle Tours said it was super easy to find the route out of town - take the path under the train tracks then turn left. 🤨

    Not so simple - after lots of dipsy doodling about for about 30 minutes we finally found it. Lessons learned - as always. . . . . I’d downloaded the route on Ride with GPS, but didn’t know if I turned the volume up the “sweet” lady would actually talk to me. Once we found the route, I figured this out so we were good to go.

    The route itself was great - through 3 or 4 towns, where we amazingly didn’t get lost - then through various terrains from lush trees to barren fields. The guys in the bike shop said it was mostly downhill. Not true . . . . the last bit was down hill, but the rest was not and the wind was pretty strong.

    We were delighted when we finally sighted water. By this time it was about 3:00pm and we were worried they wouldn’t be serving food. Fortunately they were, plus we really needed some nice cold beers. Estrella seems to be the only beer on tap in most places, but that suits me fine - light and cold. We, of course, ordered seafood - calamares and grilled clams - delish

    The scene there was amazing - as the pics show - so I won’t say much more. Fortunately we’d arranged to be picked up there, rather than bike back - good decision. Being late now, we headed to our fav restaurant in « our » courtyard and have a lovely meal accompanied by their specialty wines.

    Being a warm beautiful night I headed out to get some night pics. Girona is amazing in the evening. Have only posted a couple of pics here, will add more tomorrow.    もっと詳しく

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