• Jo-Lynne Sutherland

European Adventures 2022

Celebrating our milestone birthdays in Switzerland, Italy & France in 2022 Read more
  • Day 26 Have bikes will travel

    September 26, 2022 in France ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Another beautiful sunny day - but a bit cooler in the morning.

    About 9:30 we hiked over to the bike shop we’d found yesterday and rented bikes for 6 days. The same friendly lady was there - we had a good chat about bikes, kids & Canada. Our French seems to be getting a bit better - either that or she was “super nice.”

    The bikes are great - only 7 gears, but smooth & comfortable. After touring around a bit we paused for coffee & croissants. So French.

    Agde is actually 3 different cities - Agde, the old city that’s further inland, Cap d’Agde a tourist’s playground where we are, and Le Grau Agde a traditional fishing village with miles of sandy beaches.

    As we’d wandered around the Cap yesterday, we decided to explore Le Grau this morning, then head east in the afternoon. We decided to be “reasonable” and not explore all 3 cities in one day. Needless to say we weren’t reasonable and didn’t get home until 6:30pm - 17,300 steps / peddles later.

    Again, we managed to get totally lost, ending up in Marseillan Plage, 13 K away, and coming back against wind gusts of 45 K. Fortunately the paths were relatively flat.

    Overall impression - there are lovely well maintained bike paths everywhere, and sandy beaches & promenades that go on for miles. We rarely hear English and the locals are friendly.

    Some highlights were beach resorts with palm trees, biking along L’Hérault peer, ultra modern Tourism Office & commercial complex, watching a boule competition - totally boring but obviously a serious pastime - circling a huge aquatic centre, (Archipel La Cité de L’eau), trying to visit Village Naturiste but being locked out, and heading past the Centre International de Tennis - 30 tennis courts, no pickelball . . .

    All in all another fun, energetic day.
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  • Day 27 Biking to the old city of Agde

    September 27, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    A bit cooler today - fall is coming, even here. We actually donned wind breakers for the first time and were glad we did.

    Our destination was the old city of Agde about 11K away. It was a super easy route - mostly a flat bike path to l’ Hérault River, then north along another flat bike path into the heart of Agde.

    The winds were strong - not like the Mistrell we experienced in Avignon where I was hanging onto a bridge so my bike & I wouldn’t fly away - but pretty close.

    Along the way we saw some serious huge fishing boats - but surprisingly no shops selling fresh fish. Reaching Agde about 1:30 I was ready for lunch, but Peter was not. He finally succumbed to eating a few slices of pizza.

    From there we headed to Écluse du Ronde, a circular structure built from volcanic basalt in 1675 to allow boats from Canal du Midi and l’Hérault river to pass. There are 3 different water levels. Our timing was good as a tourist boat was heading into 1 of the locks.

    Overall impression of Agde - quiet narrow streets, few tourists, many historic buildings and houses built with black volcanic rock - peaceful & quiet.

    Heading home, fortunately we had the wind at our backs so got home in reasonable time. We then googled and found a shop nearby selling fresh fish - Peter headed out and chose daurade - sea bass - it was delish.
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  • Day 28 biking to Mont Saint-Loup & Agde

    September 28, 2022 in France ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Another energetic, unexpected adventure. Weather forecast said rain, but we only got a couple of sprinkles. We’ve been amazingly lucky with the weather.

    Our destination was Mont Saint Loup, a former volcano high in the hills over looking Agde - all 3 cities. Once again we got totally lost. Can’t believe it - using a real map, AllTrails map & Google maps, we still got lost - but saw lots of interesting sites along the way.

    A highlight was heading over the upper paths connecting the new commercial centre, tourist centre and routes on the other side. The wind was so strong I thought I was going to be blown off. See video.

    After giving up on that destination, we decided to head to the train station in Agde to see if we can lock our bikes up there when we venture further afield by train later this week. The answer was yes.

    Coming back to Cap d’Agde we got lost again - the plus was Peter noticed a sign pointing to Mont Saint Loup - our original destination. The negative was the steep climb straight up. I biked about half of it, and pushed my super heavy bike up the other half. Loved it when a tourist train came by and a group of ladies all cheered me on. Great views & pics of Agde from on high.

    Heading back down we got lost again - ended up on a goat trail by passing the humongous golf course, and finally got back on track.

    A quick trip to our local Carrfour for dinner supplies, and we’re now sipping Lagavette, a wine from this Languedoc region, and enjoying brie cheese. Have calm French music playing - life is good.
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  • Day 29 Biking to Marseillan

    September 29, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Great day - we almost made it through the day without getting lost - but not quite.

    We biked easily to Marseillan, 13 K north east of here - lovely bike paths almost the whole way. We’d been to Marseillan Beach on the Mediterranean a few days ago, so knew the route - more or less.

    The city of Marseillan is further north on Étang de Thau, a huge lagoon we passed coming here by train, and saw from our climb up Mount Saint- Loop yesterday. It’s at the southern entry point of the 240K Canal du Midi - so lots boats plus a lighthouse marking the entry point. So picturesque.

    Loved the broad promenades lined with boats & restaurants. Peter found a place at the port that rents kayaks & canoes - actually only 1 of each - but could be another adventure for next week. We didn’t have time to explore the old town, but I read it was a fortified village until the 18C and there haven’t been any new buildings constructed since the 17C.

    As we’d made it there so easily, I was sure the route home would be equally direct - but no, we headed off in the wrong exit from a roundabout and ended up who knows where. Relying on our maps, and general intuition, we finally make it back about 6:00. We then popped into a nearby poissonnerie - that only one around - and picked up some salmon - soooo fresh & good.

    Looking forward to what tomorrow will bring.
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  • Day 30 Train to Montpellier

    September 30, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Today went extremely smoothly, except for a little “side trip” biking home.

    Biking to the train station in Agde went amazing well. We’ve finally found 2 routes - and this newest one got us there in about 45 minutes. The train originated in Narbonne, so was packed when it arrived. I found a seat - Peter finally found one after the stop in Séte.

    Montpellier is a big vibrant city - totally different from Agde. So many historic buildings, lovely parks, sculptures, and of course the essential carousel in the heart of the city. I read that the population is 468,000 and 80,000 are students. That was evident as we wandered around.

    Some highlights were the oldest medical university in the world, their Arc de Triomphe, headless statues in Esplanade de Corum, and the multicoloured trams.

    Coming back, the train was totally packed once again. I found a seat, but Peter stood the whole way. Trains in France are something else - super efficient, reliable, but they just keep selling tickets so it becomes a free for all getting on & off. You’ll find dogs, cats, bikes, scooters, all kinds of luggage. They rarely check for tickets - impossible to make it through the crowds.

    Arriving back, rather than take the 2 bikes trails we know, the “royal we” decided to try a new route . . . . we didn’t get lost - just couldn’t access the bridge we needed to cross so had to backtrack. Finally, at 7:00 pm we arrived home.

    So glad we decided to go - definitely worth a visit.
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  • Day 31 Saturday market & beach walk

    October 1, 2022 in France ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Our timing was great - hit 2 Saturday markets while here. Love them - amazing colours, smells, sounds - great vibe. The one by our place closed last Saturday, but the one in front of the new commercial complex is even more active & picturesque.

    We picked up enough fresh fruits & veggies for our final week here, then Peter went to the local Carrefour and picked up veggie couscous - so dinner was simple & delish.

    After lunch we headed to our bike shop - La Ballade des Gens Heureux - in Le Grau d’Agde to extend our rentals for 3 more days. Biking is really the way to go - so much more mobility and a chance to pause anywhere - plus get lost and explore more than you intended.

    We were curious to know if the bridge we couldn’t cross yesterday was accessible from the sea side, so biked back along l’Hérault river. Simple answer - no. Content we’d solved that mystery, we headed to the beach.

    The beaches at Le Grau d’Agde are by far the best we’ve seen - miles & miles of sand and few people. Perhaps Saïd’s beau frére was right when he said buy now - Agde, although not part of the Côte d’Azur, will soon be “ the place to be.”

    Walking along the beach for about 2 hours, we saw a couple of lovely homes - no doubt more to come. We paused for drinks on the promenade, then biked back in relatively timely good time - for us.

    A nice change of pace from our long bike rides.
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  • Day 32 Lovely bike path to Séte

    October 2, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We found an amazing bike path today - here to Séte. Having been to Marseillan Beach a few times, we finally aced the route this time. From there, it was another 15K or so to Séte. In total it was about 50K return, but lovely because it was flat & picturesque, with the Mediterranean Sea on one side and Étang du Thau on the other.

    We didn’t venture far into Séte as the route was super crowded, but went far enough to see some humungous boats, and smaller ones parked 3 stories high. We watched a boat being hauled out of the water and hoisted up, but didn’t capture it in pics or videos.

    Rather than pause in Séte for drinks, we went back to a nearby beach resort and enjoyed the calm ambience - and good people watching.

    On route back, I insisted we stop again at the Palais des Congrès so I could video the amazing circular walkway between it and the Casino. Absolutely love the architecture - so simple & aesthetic. It was designed in 2019 by A+ Architecture, a French company, with artist Hervé di Rosa from Séte designing the white metal sculpture that covers the 2 buildings. Hope my video & pics capture a bit of it’s beauty.

    We were home in good time to enjoy the fish Peter had picked up this morning, Felton. Reverso tells me is halibut, flounder, turbot - whatever it was, a simple pan fry with cherry tomatoes and it was delish.

    Heading into our final few days and wanting to make the most of it.
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  • Day 33 Biking to Béziers

    October 3, 2022 in France ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    Quite the adventure today. We ended up logging in 75K - not what we’d intended.

    The route from the Cap to Agde was fine - we knew that one. From there we headed west to Béziers. We went from reasonable bike path to road to trail to getting way off track because the signage disappeared - and finally getting back along the Canal du Midi.

    Approaching Béziers we found a place that looked like it might serve food - but NO it was 3:15 and they stop serving food at 3. Where else but in France ……. We ventured on. Thinking we were now super close, we came to a sign saying “Deviation.” Fortunately, a German couple directed us to an alternative route and finally at about 4pm we reached Béziers.

    By chance I spotted a small sign saying Brasserie and we ventured in. What a find. Totally cool. Not only were they brewing beer, but it had a great vibe - and hilarious signage. See pics. We couldn’t resist buying a bottle of La Gorge Fraiche, Blonde Artisanale. Hope it’s a good as what we drank there.

    Fortified and back on the trail, we actually found the path by Canal du Midi to Agde, then back to the Cap. I lost Peter at one point, but fortunately my SIM card was still working so I found my way back home - albeit at 7:15, close to dusk.

    Tomorrow is Peter’s BIG 80. His choice of activities. Curious to see what he’ll choose- no doubt something active.
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  • Day 34 Peter’s 80th - his choices

    October 4, 2022 in France ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    How to celebrate an 80th??

    Peter’s choice - bike to Marseillan - about an hour - then paddle 2.5 hours on Étang de Thau and along Canal du Midi, and bike back.

    Arriving at 12:01pm we were lucky the shop was open - and the owner was “sympathique.” He was proud to show us his “Canadian” canoe - large & plastic, but stable. He hosed it down, and dropped it into the lake between 2 boats. By stepping on the stern of one, we were able to get in.

    Étang de Thau is huge - 21 K long & 8K across - and linked by the Canal du Midi to Bordeaux via Toulouse. Being so vast, we weren’t sure where to go. First, we ventured out to the middle, then headed down the Canal - more action there.

    The weather was amazing and everything went smoothly except . …
    After about 1.5 hours of paddling, Peter hopped out of the boat for a pit stop along the Canal. Getting back in, and after paddling about 15 minutes upstream, he noticed his phone was not in his pocket. Convinced it had fallen out, we canoed back, and actually found the exact spot - but no phone. EUREKA - after checking his bags thoroughly again - le voilá - there it was. A total déjà vu of when we flew out of Pearson. . . . .

    Happily back on track, we got to the landing at 3:05 - meaning no lunch for us, just beer. It never ceases to amaze us how they get away with this . . . . .

    Having to return our bikes before 5, we took the route back we knew. We stopped on the way at our fav poisonnerie - he chose salmon. Must say, after 9 days of biking, walking home from the bike shop seemed soooo slow.

    We’re winding down after a delish dinner. Peter’s enjoying all his birthday wishes by phone and email.

    Last day tomorrow - have to make the most of it.
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  • Day 35 Last day in Agde

    October 5, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Unfortunately our final day has arrived. Cap d’Agde has worked out surprisingly well for us, but without bikes we decided to do our own things today.

    My choice - I walked to Palais des Congrès hoping to go inside, but all the doors were locked tight. There was a sign with a number to call, but my SIM card has expired so I was out of luck.

    I headed next door to the Casino. The “guard” was super serious - asked for my ID, can’t imagine why, and said photos are “strictement interdict.” I didn’t want to mess with him, hence no pics.

    I rarely go into Casinos so don’t have much to compare this one to, but it was lovely - ultra modern, light jazz playing - my fav - and about 30 people seriously focussed on their slot machines. There was an adjoining restaurant with the same aesthetic design and an enclosed room for smokers - looked pretty serious inside.

    From there I wandered past the Centre International de Tennis hoping to see if PB had reached this far afield, but it was locked up tight - either that or I didn’t venture far enough to find the right entrance. Seems lots of places close down in Sept/Oct - but having very few tourists is a real plus as far as I’m concerned.

    From there my destination was Musée d’Éphebe - must say I was impressed. It’s an archaeological & maritime museum with statues from the Roman/Greek period - most notably L’Ephèbe d’Agde, an ancient bronze sculpture discovered in 1964 in the Hérault river near Agde - hence the name of the museum. It also has ancient artifacts dating back 2,000 years, and lots of videos of scuba divers and their finds. Unfortunately, I couldn’t stay long as we only had 1 set of keys and Peter was waiting for his excursion out. On the way back I meandered along the Promenade for one last look.

    As I wandered about, I noticed a certain branding everywhere - white on white- so lovely.

    Peter’s final tour was more practical - checked out the bus stop for tomorrow, disposed of our bottles - lots of wine & beer - and searched out where & why we got lost a few days ago - seems we missed a critical tunnel. He also happened upon Agd’Aventure, a totally natural fun park for kids. The grandkids would love it.

    Everywhere we’ve been in France there have been great parks for kids, especially here in Agde - huge water slides, amusement parks, nature parks like Peter found. Wish we had more of these back home.

    Tomorrow we head to Paris for 2 days then home. Loving our time here and realizing it’s more fun to bop about from place to place, we’ve planned a few more adventures - San Miguel March 2 - 18, Tucson March 19 - April 1, then possibly Florida . . . . .

    Now that we’ve hit our golden 75th & 80th, we’ve decided we have to continue to enjoy each moment - and keep on trekking. 🏃🏼🏃‍♀️🚴‍♀️ 🚴🚣 🚣‍♂️ 🤩🤩
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  • Day 36 Cap d’ Agde to Paris

    October 6, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Today was a travel day. We were up relatively early - at least for me - because Saida and her husband were coming to collect the keys to the apartment. Although she said she’s an English teacher, we ended up chatting in French. Hope that means we’ve make some progress while here.

    They kindly drove us to the train station - although we did pay them - but at
    least it was better than taking the bus for 45 minutes. Our TGV train was 25 minutes late - most unusual, but they said it was due to water & an animal on the track. As we had reserved seats, there was no stress.

    We’ve decided that trains are the way to go in Europe. The Eurail pass is great. If you’re making several stops in different countries it takes time to set up in advance, but it works beautifully.

    The other thing I’ve learned - and love - is having a new SIM card. It was only $33 for a month and worked well in all 3 countries. Unfortunately it expired Oct 1 - really missed it today when we arrived at Gare du Lyon in Paris and had to find our way to the hotel. From now on I’ll buy 2 cards if we’re away for more than a month.

    Not having a map or SIM card, we finally found our hotel. I had taken a screen shot of the directions, but we went down Avenue de Bercy not Boulevard de Bercy, and ended up at a dead end. We finally found our hotel - but it was thanks to a sweet young university student who walked us all the way there. Couldn’t thank her enough - also another great op to practice my French.

    After checking in, we explored about and found a good restaurant nearby. French Bordeaux & Chardonnay, good food - a lovely way to end the day.

    Didn’t take many pics - more to come tomorrow.
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  • Day 37 Final day of our fab holiday

    October 7, 2022 in France ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

    We only had 1 full day in Paris, so made the most of it. What a day - clear blue sky & perfect walking temperature. We hit our absolute record - 42,244 steps or 28.9 K according to my Fitbit. Good thing we both have comfy shoes.

    Wish I’d tracked our exact path - we were everywhere. Breakfast at our restaurant in Bercy, lunch at Saint- Germain- des-Prés, drinks at Place l’Opera, dinner back in Bercy .

    In between we scouted out places we wanted to revisit. Peter was hoping to have lunch at Les Deux Magots or Café des Flore - where deep thinkers like Jean Paul Sartre etc met over the years - but the queues were horrendous. We found a good - we thought better - restaurant nearby and enjoyed the scene.

    Drinks at Cafe de la Paix at Place l’Opera were also “obligatoire.” Word has it if you sit there long enough you’ll see someone you know. Didn’t happen to us - but the people watching was good fun.

    Another key stop was Place Vendome - back in the 60s Peter picked up his mail & money there when he was hitchhiking around Europe & the Middle East. Lots of other shops there now - but no BMO.

    We, of course, had to wander down the Champs Élysées for old time sake - it’s looking much better than when we were last here - plus see the Louvre, Arc de Triomph, Notre Dame Cathedral - lots of scaffolding & barricades, Élysées Palace - lots of police surrounding it. I wanted pics but was hesitant. There were tons more churches & sculptures - can’t remember them all.

    Overall impression - Paris is a beautiful fascinating city, so much to see and do - always worth another trip back.

    Drat - have to pack now. Will reflect more on the whole adventure once we get home tomorrow.
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  • Day 38 Heading home

    October 8, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    It’s been an amazing celebration of our 75/80 B-Days. Chatting on the way home, we decided we wouldn’t have done anything differently.

    Our 3 destinations - Switzerland, Italy & France were quite different - making interesting comparisons. Train connections worked well- Eurail pass is great. Highly recommend it.

    Overall we chose well with our accommodations - Sils & Lac Como were quite spacious and nicely decorated. Riomaggiore was our fave - aesthetic & well located. Nice was super tiny & noisy at night, but aesthetic. Agde was the most spacious, which was good as we spent 13 days there - but we had to clean it up a bit.

    Luckily we were healthy - so super active. Hiking in Sils Maria with Madeline & John was a highlight, as was our biking in and around Agde. Aside from Peter thinking he’d lost his phone twice, there really were no major hitches - amazing . . . .

    As for the 3 countries, true to stereotypes, Switzerland seemed super clean & efficient - trains running on time, accommodations neat & aesthetic. Italy seemed more chaotic - trains packed, noise & a bit of chaos everywhere. France, at least on the Côte d’Azure, seemed more refined - lovely outdoor cafes, large wide promenades, people “chilling.” Paris was more vibrant - people walking & talking faster, noise from sirens, street cars, busses.

    This was a new type of trip for us- bopping around so much, and fortunately it worked well. It’s nice to be home now, though, with more physical and personal space. Some of our AirBnBs were super small, and being together 24/7 for 38 days was a new experience for us both. I’m amazed it worked out so well.

    We’ve really got the travel bug now - next up San Miguel & Tucson this March, perhaps some skiing and other destinations.

    At 75 / 80 we’re not getting any younger - have to enjoy life to the fullest now.
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    Trip end
    October 8, 2022