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Chile to Antarctica
  • Lorna Spaas
  • Paul Spaas
oct. – nov. 2024

Chile to Antarctica

Chile to Argentina and Antarctica. The start of an adventure! En savoir plus
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  • Chile to Antarctica

    Heading to Livingston Island

    29 octobre 2024, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ☁️ -2 °C

    It was a hectic night for Paul - there was a lot of sea ice and the ship made slow progress. He ended up having to call the Captain around 1pm to make some decisions because the ice was really bad.

    I didn't have a great night myself. There was a lot of motion with the ocean and the ship rocked quite a lot with the swell. The stabilisers couldn't be put out because of the swell, and also noise of the ship's engines to manoeuvre the ship around very hard ice or away from bergs.

    What a sight to behold when people woke up and looked outside their window. Ice surrounding the ship: icebergs, plate ice and ice from melted snow on the water that immediately froze that caused a very thin frozen film on top of the water. It was incredibly beautiful.

    We were due to head to Two Hummock Island, with an proposed landing expedition on the island to see a colony of Gentoo penguins and a bit of a hill walk included. Due to the slow progress the ship made through the ice, it was decided that we might as well head towards Livingstone Island instead - which was were the proposed afternoon zodiac cruise would take place.
    So, with a change in today's plans to skip the landing expedition, guests on board had a few hours to kill, watching the sea ice surrounding the ship, and seeing passing icebergs. A talk thrown in by a Marine Biologist which some people attended but a lot of guests decided to look at the sea ice.

    It is amazing, beautiful and magical. We must never take life for granted.

    Some of the photographs Paul took (from the Bridge with the ship's spotlight) and early morning view of the bow of the ship.    En savoir plus

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  • Chile to Antarctica

    Livingston Island - Zodiac Cruise

    29 octobre 2024, Antarctique ⋅ ☁️ -1 °C

    Paul woke up soon after 10:30am so he got up and we went to the Bow Lounge before heading to the Colonnade for an early lunch. By this time the ship had arrived at more or less it's scheduled stop, for the zodiac cruise.

    Paul was awake enough to come with me for the zodiac ride, away from the ship towards Livingston Island, and along it's cliff-line. It was a bit foggy but visibility was reasonable. The sea ice was interesting to see from very close up. We also saw interesting ice bergs, cormorants and petrels, as well as a seagull. There was an interesting needle like basalt column and we had time to take a few photographs.

    On the way back we got close to a sea cave that was being carved out by winds and waves. And then the fog came and we couldn't see much. The zodiac pilot had to rely on a navigator to get back to the ship. If that failed, the expedition guide/pilot would have called the ship's Bridge for guidance and they would have used a location beacon on the zodiac to ping its whereabouts and then guide the zodiac towards the ship. Fortunately it wasn't needed. Also, Paul had his phone with him and saw exactly where we were on Find Penguins app which relies on satellite to track us, so in need - he would have helped out, no doubt! Out of the gloom we saw the ship ahead of us.

    Sadly photographs from our Nikon camera have not come out very well so I apologise for the quality of them. I found that my phone's camera is a lot better so I have used some of them here.

    Once back on board, we had a welcome hot chocolate to warm us up and the Paul headed to bed.

    I attended the recap session, and briefing about tomorrow. One lady gave a very passionate talk about krill and its importance to the ecosystem. There are only 2 protected areas for krill in Antarctica at the moment where no fishing is allowed.. Russia and and China recently vetoed (again) 2 planned conservation areas for krill. Krill is used for omega-3 supplements, it is used in pet food, food ingredient for aquaculture, as bait it in sport fishing, and more. Krill is being overfished but it is the lifeblood of the oceans. Without it marine mammals and birds will not survive. Here is a news article I found about Russia and China's veto: https://news.mongabay.com/2024/10/more-krill-fi…    En savoir plus

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  • Chile to Antarctica

    Cuverville Island & Gentoo Penguins (1)

    30 octobre 2024, Antarctique ⋅ 🌫 -2 °C

    Each guest is assigned a colour for groups to go out on expeditions and each group is allocated a time to go out. Groups are rotated so that each gets a turn to go out late or early.

    This morning Blue was given a 10am start rather than a 7:30am start, so it meant I could sleep in late. I wish! I woke up around 7:30am when the announcements were made for the first groups to go out. Eventually I got up and worked on my blog. Paul was soundly sleeping, and by the time my colour group was called, he was still asleep so I didn’t wake him when I went out.

    The groups started to run half an hour late so it was after 10:30 by the time I left the ship to go to Cuverville Island. Although the weather had closed in and snow was falling, it was well worth the zodiac ride to the island. There were lots of penguins. And I could see why the zodiacs were running behind time. The landing was difficult with a steep run onto a small area of rocky, pebbly ‘beach’ and staff had to help guests get into and off the zodiacs safely.

    The ship has arrived in time to see penguins arriving for the nesting season. I believe the earlier groups didn’t see as many penguins as the last few groups. There were lots of these gentle, bumbling creatures. We had to keep a respectful distance from them, and we sometimes found ourselves having to wait quite a while before crossing their walking path because of a traffic jam of penguins walking from one part of the peninsula, along the coastline to more nesting sites further along. It was really wonderful.

    We were allowed to walk up to the shoulder of a hill to look out towards the sea, in one direction, with penguins coming in, and also looking into the bay where we landed, where more penguins were coming in. Then we could walk along the coastline (away from the penguins but in the same direction) and then up to a viewpoint on a hill where there were more penguins. It was interesting to see the ‘March of the Penguins’. Sometimes they walked, sometimes they rested, a couple glided along on their bellies. It was sweet.    En savoir plus

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  • Chile to Antarctica

    Cuverville Island & Gentoo Penguins (2)

    30 octobre 2024, Antarctique ⋅ 🌫 -2 °C

    While walking, against a rocky slope there was a small patch without snow and, looking carefully, there was most southernmost flowering plant: the Deschampsia Antarctica. Fortunately one of the expedition guides, an avid botanist, had seen it and was standing by to show people. It is trying hard to make a living and is very slow growing.

    At the viewpoint a penguin couple was going through a dance, being re-united with each other; but other similar dances were seen too. One penguin was nesting already – an egg had been spotted under it’s tummy. Egg laying takes place between October and November, and we might get to see checks towards the end of November and in December! Egg incubation is about 34 to 37 days.

    It was soon time to head back to the ship but guests got interrupted by the penguin highway when trying to cross it to get to the zodiacs, so there was a bit of a delay again. But it was lovely.    En savoir plus

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  • Chile to Antarctica

    Cuverville Island & Gentoo Penguins (3)

    30 octobre 2024, Antarctique ⋅ 🌫 -2 °C

    When I got back to the ship, Paul had gone to a meeting so I went for a hot chocolate and by the time I got back to the cabin, he had returned. So we went for lunch. After lunch we went out on deck and saw Snowy Sheathbills near the swimming pool and hot tubs, eyeballing the water. One or two birds attempted to bathe by sitting on the drainage slats of the hot tub and putting it's head into the warm water and trying to shake the warm water over it's head and wings. Sweet!

    With a bit of the delay back to the ship from the Cuvervill Island, the zodiac cruises are delayed a bit. It looks like we are going a bit further south within the Errera channel rather than continuing into Andvord Bay because, as per another expedition ship which passed by the Pursuit, the bay was blocked by ice.

    Errera Channel Zodiac cruises started about half an hour later due to the delay earlier this morning. By the time it was my group’s turn at 3:45pm, Paul (who was still awake), and I decided not to go out. The wind had got up and it was snowing a lot. We felt that we wouldn’t be able to see much on the water.

    Just as well we didn’t go because about 45 minutes later the zodiacs were recalled back to the ship. The winds had taken a turn for the worse and icebergs were moving fast and getting to close to the ship for comfort. The ship had to take avoidance measures. Paul went to the Bridge for a bit and we saw the zodiacs from the last groups coming back. The captain also decided it was in our best interest to continue south through the Errera Channel and into the Gerlache Strait, and then up north in the Gerlache strait to our next possible landing tomorrow. This was instead of heading through the icebergs, northwards out of the Channel and back into Gerlache Strait to our next destination. A bit of a longer route but safer.

    It was an interesting time!    En savoir plus

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  • Chile to Antarctica

    Portal Point, Charlotte Bay, Antarctica

    31 octobre 2024, Antarctique ⋅ ☁️ -2 °C

    Paul was awake when my blue group was called to go ashore. I’m glad he was because it was a beautiful and sunny day!

    We managed to touch a rock of mainland Antarctica, not just an island in Antarctica. Wow!

    We had a lovely walk up the peninsula hill with a nice 350° view of the bay and mountains. There was also 2 sleeping seals in the far distance. At first they look like oblong rocks but one of the moved, and the snow between the two seals had been disturbed.

    Staff absolutely loved the snow and it was heart-warming to see them having fun, more so for those who have never seen snow in their lives! They work so hard, and I am just grateful that they are allowed off the ship, in between duties, to relax and enjoy themselves.    En savoir plus

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  • Chile to Antarctica

    Sea Ice Walk

    31 octobre 2024, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ⛅ -4 °C

    In the afternoon the Captain managed to pilot the ship into a shelf of sea ice off the mainland coast. During the first attempt, large cracks formed in the ice and a huge piece broke off. It took 2 or three goes before the ice was hard enough to withstand the force of the ship barging its way through, until there was enough distance past the gangway towards the back of the ship.

    Once that was done, someone was sent to test the ice, to see more or less how thick it was and how deep the snow was – for safety purposes. Then a small group of expedition team members set off carefully through the snow, from the gangway towards the bow of the ship and just beyond. They had a rope attached to the first person – in case he/she fell through the ice. But all was good, so the rest of the team set about trying to form a path through the snow that guests could walk through.

    Well, it didn’t quite work because we walked through slushy snow, often breaking through the top powdery layer and going through down to our needs to a harder layer of snow.

    Each colour group went out in turn, and even the staff got off. It was a fantastic time for everyone, to walk on a thick plate of ice. Crew set up a rope from the bow of the ship and people took turns to have a photograph of themselves ‘pulling’ the ship.

    Once everyone was on board, the Captain reversed the ship out of the ice sheet and we headed back out into the channel.    En savoir plus

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  • Chile to Antarctica

    Polar Plunge, Gerlache Strait

    31 octobre 2024, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ⛅ -4 °C

    Very soon afterward the ice walk, the ship was stopped so that guests could do the polar plunge.

    A team of staff were in 2 or 3 zodiacs on the water for backup and a zodiac was tied up next to the ship. One by one, guests disrobed in the boot room and a belt harness was wrapped around their waists, and then once on the zodiac, a rope was attached for safety and the guests could jump into the icy sea. A stiff drink was offered afterwards! There was a jolly atmosphere, music played, and all the staff were having a great time and the medical staff were to hand, watching but waiting in case of emergency, with an AED to hand. Paul slept through it all so I did the polar plunge without ‘backup’. It didn’t matter. I still enjoyed it! Unfortunately the lady trying to take my plunge didn't manage to. She got a photo of me with my back, being hooked up to a rope but that was it. It doesn't matter though.

    Unfortunately time was running out and the ship had to leave in time to reach her next destination, so staff didn’t have time to go for the polar plunge. Hopefully they will get an opportunity over the next few weeks/months that the ship is in Antarctica.

    Once everyone was on board, it was time for a recap and a briefing for tomorrow. I managed to have a very quick shower and dashed down to the Expedition Lounge – only to discover that I hadn’t washed the conditioner out of my hair. So I ended up having another shower. But I didn’t mind. The lovely warm water….    En savoir plus

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  • Chile to Antarctica

    Deception Island - Whalers Bay

    1 novembre 2024, Antarctique ⋅ ❄️ 0 °C

    The weather hadn’t been good during the night with icy conditions and strong winds, so the ship was a bit behind with her arrival for Whalers Bay in Deception Island.

    The passage through the Bellows (the opening into the volcano caldera) wasn't great as there was snowy conditions and fog.

    Paul had to go to a meeting so I went ashore on my own. It wasn’t nice outside – windy and snowy.

    Deception Island is a horseshoe shaped island which is the caldera of an active volcano. We were able to take a zodiac to the black volcanic sand shore and take a walk to see the remains of whalebones, boats, buildings, rendering pots, tanks and a warehouse; a stark reminder of early 20th century whaling and sealing operations. Most of the area was blanketed by snow and we could only imagine the harsh conditions people had to work and live in.

    We saw small groups of penguins as we walked along the coastline. The coastline steamed from sea water below being warmed from the depths below.

    I was quite glad to get back to the ship - I was feeling a bit chilled and wet from the driving wind and rain. Walking through snow can be hard as well, if you are not used to it.    En savoir plus

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  • Chile to Antarctica

    Deception Island: Telefon Bay

    1 novembre 2024, Antarctique ⋅ ❄️ 0 °C

    At noon the ship made its way out of Whalers Bay, into the main caldera, and up towards Telefon Bay.

    Paul had gone back to sleep after his meeting but woke up in time to come ashore with me at around 3:30pm. Guests had the opportunity to walk up to the ridge of a volcano (within the walls of the massive Deception Island caldera), and take in the views.

    The weather was a bit better by then, without the snow blowing into our faces.

    Well… there was snow and more snow but the backdrop of black volcanic walls against the snow was very pretty. It has been hoped that guests could do a 3.5km circular (but challenging) walk but with the snowy conditions, it was too slippery and dangerous so we could only walk as far as it was safe to do so before the slopes got steep. Back near the black sandy beach there were 3 seals. One had a suckling cub, but it was more a ‘teenager’ than a total youngster. A few Gentoo penguins also joined them.

    Tomorrow is another day but we will be sailing through Drake Passage to Ushuaia, a 2-day crossing.    En savoir plus

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  • Chile to Antarctica

    Farewell to guests & arrival in Ushuaia

    3 novembre 2024, Argentine ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Yesterday was a sea day as we cross the Drake Passage towards Ushuaia. There was quite a bit of motion of the ocean and I thought it best that I rest and catch up with myself a bit. Paul has been catching up on sleep from his night shifts so I had a bit of sleepy company.

    Today the sea was calmer. Paul caught up on more sleep and I caught up a bit on my blog.

    Around 5pm there was a farewell reception for guests, and a final staff 'goodbye'. They all came out in full force to say goodbye, after which a video of the journey was played. The camera team had captured things beautifully and so well.

    The Pursuit arrived in Ushuaia ahead of schedule. We were supposed to dock tomorrow morning but sea conditions were our favour and, as there was a berth available for the ship, we arrived around 6pm, and that meant guests and crew could go ashore for dinner or hit the bars.

    We will stay overnight here and in the morning guests will disembark and head home.

    Our next journey to Antarctica will begin tomorrow evening.    En savoir plus

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  • Chile to Antarctica

    Greenland Sea

    28 juillet, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

    It is a sea day today.

    It has been overcast and raining most of the time. There were a few people who didn't make it past their cabin doors, feeling a bit green with the rocking and rolling.

    We got issued with our rubber boots and went to a few lectures.

    Tomorrow, we shall reach Greenland!    En savoir plus

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    Fin du voyage
    3 novembre 2024