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Chile to Antarctica
  • Lorna Spaas
  • Paul Spaas
  • Lorna Spaas
  • Paul Spaas

Chile to Antarctica

Chile to Argentina and Antarctica. The start of an adventure! Read more
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  • Trip start
    October 18, 2024
    Chile to Antarctica

    Schiphol Airport

    October 18, 2024 in the Netherlands ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Flying to Puerto Montt, Chile, via Madrid and Santiago. We have about 45 minutes until the check-in desk opens.

  • Chile to Antarctica

    Madrid Airport Terminal 4S

    October 18, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Paul got his boarding pass for Amsterdam to Madrid at the check-in desk, but not onwards to Chile. I got mine strangely enough. So it was the start of our first stress, not knowing things.

    Our flight from Amsterdam was almost an hour late because the airline was trying to load all the luggage, so that added more stress.

    We had to catch a metro shuttle to Terminal 4S and then go through passport control. It was a passport recognition system for EU citizens, and we thought it would be OK with my French residency card. Nope, it didn't work. Ground staff spoke no English but saw my distress and helped me get to see a passport control officer.

    We raced to the gate with a bit of time to spare. Paul got his boarding pass printed by one of the ground stewardesses. I mentioned to them about my seat being different to that which I chose and booked. Paul's was ok. She didn't know what happened but couldn't give me another seat because the flight is fully booked. We might try to claim a refund...

    Off to Santiago now.    Read more

  • Chile to Antarctica

    Santiago Airport

    October 19, 2024 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Nice enough flight, but we didn't get too much sleep. Something disagreed with our stomachs, and we spent quite a bit of time in "toilet class", but Paul was a lot worse. The lady on the isle seat was a Saint with getting up so I could access the loo. She spoke Spanish only, so I tried my best to explain by swishing my hands around my belly and down.

    Paul had to go separately through immigration as he had a ship representative to take him through as a seaman. He was done quickly, but it took longer for me.

    Fortunately, all our luggage arrived at the carousel, so we picked it up and took it to luggage drop-off for the next flight.

    We are now waiting for our domestic flight to Puerto Montt.    Read more

  • Chile to Antarctica

    Puerto Montt Airport

    October 19, 2024 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Arrived at the local airport after an uneventful flight. The scenery we flew over was beautiful - snowcapped mountains, lakes, and rivers.

    We are being picked up by a taxi to take us to the port.

  • Chile to Antarctica

    Puerto Montt - zodiac to the Pursuit

    October 19, 2024 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    The taxi driver was waiting for us and drove us to the port. We weren't expected, according to port security gate officials. They took our passports and Paul's assignment letter, and a phone call soon sorted things out.

    The ship wasn't in port, so we had a zodiac ride with our luggage to the anchored ship.    Read more

  • Chile to Antarctica

    On board the Venture

    October 19, 2024 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    It was nice to be on the ship and get rid our rucksacks. We had been carrying extra clothes each in case our luggage got lost. We had heard of nightmare stories at Puerto Montt’s airport where luggage didn’t turn up.

    We were so glad to have a much needed shower.

    We are in a crew cabin on level 3. The cabin is basic and comfortable. We are not complaining though. I believe that we might be moved to a guest cabin in a few days' time, depending on capacity. At the moment, the ship is fully booked for this current cruise.

    I think we will have an early night tonight!    Read more

  • Chile to Antarctica

    Sea Day

    October 20, 2024, South Pacific Ocean ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    We had hoped to sleep late but woke up around 6am. We had almost slept around the clock so we can’t complain.

    We went to check out the Bridge and later met the Captain.

    I tried to have a nap and Paul went to a quiet area of the ship to work on a IAATO (International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators) course.

    We went to the 6pm briefing for tomorrow: what is planned and what to expect. After that a few expedition staff gave short talks which were interesting. Remember, an expedition cruise is all about learning. One talk was a brief history of Puerto Montt. He was a very good and accomplished speaker.

    Afterwards we went to The Club for sushi. Someone played the piano and guitar as we relaxed. It was a nice atmosphere.    Read more

  • Chile to Antarctica

    Caleta Tortel

    October 21, 2024 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    Guests took a zodiac ride to the village and were able to watch a cultural show or spend time visiting the area.

    Paul and I decided to go for a walk along the wooden promenade along the shore. It was pretty. We met a friendly dog or two along the way. We took a different route back but it barely existed in places! There were lots of missing planks and it took a while to get back to the town.

    We walked in the opposite direction, along the pier, towards the main town but got waylaid by a ginger cat sunbathing on the steps of someone's house. It was the highlight of our morning, and by the time we had finished taking photographs, it was time to head back to the ship.    Read more

  • Chile to Antarctica

    Caleta Tortel

    October 21, 2024 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    There was supposed to have been river zodiac cruises in the afternoon
    but they were cancelled this afternoon because of strong winds. A guided hike, birdwatching or beachcombing was offered around Calet Tortel instead, but Paul had a course to attend, and I was still jet-lagged and ended up having a nap.

    Later on we went to the Bridge and then it was time for the recap and discussion of tomorrow's event, as well as a few short talks.    Read more

  • Chile to Antarctica

    Pio XI Glacier

    October 22, 2024, South Pacific Ocean ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Paul had a meeting to attend so I went with a group of guests on a zodiac cruise towards and along the front of the glacier. We had to keep a good distance away from it for safety reasons.

    It was still beautiful to see, with caves at its base, dark blue compacted ice, and jagged ridges. There was quite a bit of calving off the face of the glacier. One would hear a bang and then see almost an avalanche of ice as a chunk gave way and fell into the sea. The force of nature is wonderful!

    Later on there was a recap of the day, a few short talks and then it was time for dinner.

    We had a lovely meal with the medical team: a South African doctor and his wife (they both had a fantastic sense of humour), a South African nurse and an American nurse. We enjoyed their company tremendously.    Read more

  • Chile to Antarctica

    El Brujo & sailing towards Punta Arenas

    October 23, 2024 in Chile ⋅ 🌫 7 °C

    Heading towards Punta Arenas.

    Before we left the glacier, there was a sail-away on the bow with caviar and champagne but unfortunately it was a bit of a washout because the rain came, so people moved indoors to the bow lounge. In the afternoon we were allowed to go visit the submarine garages and see a submarine. It seats 6 people, 3 on each side of the submarine in moveable chairs, and 1 pilot. The Perspex windows are about 9cm thick. They can go down to a maximum of 300 metres and if the pilot tries to go any deeper, the on-board computer system overrides the pilot to bring the submarine to the surface.

    It would be nice to go in the submarine in Antarctica if the crew are invited for a test dive. We shall see!

    Afterwards Paul and I did a bit of a tour of the ship to see the marshalling area, the laundry room, the tailor's room, and a few other places before the next recap and daily briefing.

    Our next stop is Punta Arenas tomorrow.    Read more

  • Chile to Antarctica

    Punta Arenas

    October 24, 2024 in Chile ⋅ 🌬 6 °C

    Paul had to attend a meeting so it was around 10am that we finally got off the ship for a wander around Punta Arenas. It was chilly and windy so we decided not to stay out for too long. We ended up being out for about 3.5 hours and by then the wind was up. It was fairly strong and chilly.

    We ended up having a hot chocolate in order to defrost!

    The rest of the day was spent relaxing a bit.    Read more

  • Chile to Antarctica

    Punta Arenas Day 2

    October 25, 2024 in Chile ⋅ 🌬 6 °C

    Excursion: Punta Arenas on Foot Experience

    We woke up to find a small expedition ship docked opposite us, the Magellan Explorer. We realised that our port window was at eye level with the pier, and for any delivery vehicles stopping next to the ship, so we had to pull the curtains closed when we got dressed.

    The wind was blowing and it was also quite miserable outside but I was booked on a tour and decided to go because there were probably areas that I didn't see when I was out walking with Paul yesterday.

    A group of 22 people whittled its way down to 8 guests by the time the walking tour was finished. The weather wasn't great so I don't blame them!

    We walked along the waterfront, saw a historic pier that exists but doesn't as there were lots of planks missing. At the end of it there were cormorants sitting on it, but you couldn't see them clearly - they were in the distance.

    Next we stopped at the Ancund Monument which is dedicated to a schooner that carried settlers to Punta Arenas in 1843. Unfortunately a lot what our guide was saying was lost because I couldn't hear her very well. It didn't matter - at least I got outdoors for a bit.

    We walked along the Colón Avenue where there were neoclassical mansions, the municipal theatre, the Union Club, The Sarah Braun Palace, and the Menéndez museum.

    We climbed a lot of steps up to the Cerro de la Cruz observation deck for views of the city, and then headed back into town, past the Cathedral and to Plaza de Armas to see a monument to Fernández Magellan.

    At the plaza, the rest of the guests disbursed and the guide, an expedition leader, an Australian guest and I were the only ones who walked back to the port.    Read more

  • Chile to Antarctica

    Punta Arenas Day 2 Continued

    October 25, 2024 in Chile ⋅ 🌬 5 °C

    I was quite chilled and therefore glad to get back to the ship and have a nice hot chocolate in the Seabourn Square with Paul, who I found hard at work on his laptop.

    Later in the afternoon a receptionist approached us and advised that a guest cabin was ready for us to move in. The Service Engineer who was using the room disembarked today, so as soon as the room was cleaned, we were able to move, and someone else was assigned the staff cabin we had been in. We now have a balcony cabin on deck 6 next to the Bow Lounge. The crew cabin was in a quiet area for any crew on shifts, an absolute blessing! We hope the guest cabin we are in will be fairly quiet. We are right at the end of the corridor. There is a crew door leading to the staircase right opposite us, and also a public entrance to the Bow Lounge. There is a guest cabin directly next to us. We shall see!

    Later on there was a recap talk and a briefing about tomorrow's activities; and a few short talks as well.

    Departure is a bit later than expected because the engineers working on the radars hadn't finished.    Read more

  • Chile to Antarctica

    Drake Passage, heading to Antarctica

    October 26, 2024, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌬 8 °C

    This morning everyone was called, group at a time, to go to the Landing Zone on deck 3 to visit the boot room and get sized for boots that we will be wearing in Antarctica. Paul couldn't attend because he was in a meeting so I got his for him (Paul told me the size to get but I forgot and used his usual shoe size, which was one size smaller than the size he wanted. Fortunately they did fit when he tried them on later.)

    Getting my boot size was a bit more difficult. I've got the smallest feet on board (EU34, UK2, US4) ! Initially I was given an EU38 but the expedition team vowed to look for a smaller pair for me as they thought there was at least a pair one size smaller. Later on I got a call from reception to say that a smaller pair of boots had been found and that they were in my boot cubicle. I could try them on for size. They are an EU37, UK4, at least 2 sizes too big for me but they are a better fit and I can put extra socks on to take up the space.

    Paul was still in meetings and attending a crew drill during the morning so I went to listen to the mandatory IAATO (International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators) briefing to highlight actions all visitors must take to make their visit safe and environmentally responsible in order to safeguard Antarctica for future generations. It was a very interesting talk, along with a video presentation.

    The rest of the day was spent relaxing and trying to catch up on some of my blogs.    Read more

  • Chile to Antarctica

    Drake Passage, Day 2

    October 27, 2024, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ☁️ -1 °C

    We attended a lecture in the morning about different types of seals, particularly those we might see in Antarctica. We learned about their survival skills, diving skills and more. It was interesting.

    In the afternoon we listened to a talk "Fifty Shades of Blue Ice". It was interesting enough but it was a bit 'all over the show' and not put together particularly well. It happens sometimes, depending on the speaker.

    At some stage we took our outdoor clothes for inspection by the Expedition team. Hats, gloves, anything with velcro on it, outer coats and outer trousers were inspected for mud and particles that might contaminate Antarctica. They used tweezers if necessary to remove particles from velcro, vacuumed and brushed/cleaned items. Everyone had to go through the process.

    In the early evening I attended a recap and briefing for tomorrow. We are arriving in the Southern Shetland Islands tomorrow (not to be confused with Scotland's Shetland Islands), and hope to do a landing at Yankee Harbour and then do a cruise near Edinburgh Hill.

    Paul had a bit of a nap after the lectures. He's starting his ice shift at 9pm tonight.    Read more

  • Chile to Antarctica

    Arrival at Yankee Harbour

    October 28, 2024 in Antarctica ⋅ 🌬 -1 °C

    Snow, wind, and ice. It is -2C outside, but the wind chill has brought the temperature down to -11C. Brrr.

    Paul is back from his shift and had an hour's sleep before waking up. I think he might come outside with me to visit Yankee Harbour and then go back to sleep later.

    We are waiting for the announcements as to when we get off. I'm in the Blue group, which will be one of the first groups to go. Which is also nice for Paul this time as he has the rest of the day to sleep 😴.    Read more

  • Chile to Antarctica

    Yankee Harbour - Visiting the Penguins!

    October 28, 2024 in Antarctica ⋅ 🌬 -1 °C

    The strong winds, coupled with a choppy ride and snow made for an interesting ride from the ship to shore. We got thoroughly soaked as the zodiac hit the waves - a baptism from the sea! Sometimes the water droplets froze immediately and came down on us like small stones, and then melted quickly.

    We couldn't go all the way inside the natural harbour because of sea ice but the expedition guides had found a place at the entrance of the harbour, right at the end of the spit.

    If we wanted to see penguins, we had to walk along the spit, through snow, following coloured poles, to the mainland island and saw a colony of penguins. Despite the driving wind, frozen faces and lips, we got to see the Gentoo penguins. They were delightful to look at. Some were sleeping, a few standing, others walking. At one point 2 penguins came towards us where our group was standing (a rope demarcated a safe distance barrier, not to be crossed in order to observe the penguins from a respectful distance). We had to walk back, away from the penguins in order to maintain a good no-contact distance. They were really sweet.

    After a while, rather frozen, we headed back to the zodiac for a ride back to the ship. Hot chocolate afterwards came in handy!

    Paul is heading back to bed now for the rest of the day, and I'm going to relax and wait until this afternoon's zodiac ride to Edinburgh Hill (an ancient basalt volcanic plug) that is on Varna Peninsula, Livingston Island, south Shetland Islands.    Read more

  • Chile to Antarctica

    Edinburgh Hill, Livingstone Island

    October 28, 2024 in Antarctica ⋅ ☁️ -1 °C

    Paul was sleeping nicely at around lunch time so I didn't disturb him when my group was called to go for a zodic cruise to see Edinburgh Hill, a volcanic basalt plug/column.

    It was still cold but the wind had died down a bit and made the ride a bit more pleasant.

    The column was impressive with its hexagonal shaped columned slopes. On one side there was a bit of algae. Melting ice formed lovely artwork on the lower cliffs.

    Penguins were spotted - Gentoo penguins, and a Chinstrap penguin was seen but I find it difficult to see with iced up glasses. I think we will get a pair of snow goggles when we dock in Ushuaia!

    As we headed back to the ship, we passed a beautiful iceberg with a blue base. Unfortunately my telephone's battery died so I couldn't take any more photographs!

    After a hot chocolate and de-frost session, chatting to another couple in the bow lounge, I went back to the cabin to find that Paul had disappeared. It turned out that he had to go to a meeting on the bridge so got rudely awakened.

    He stayed awake long enough to have dinner in the crew mess with me before heading back to bed.

    I went to the recap meeting and briefing on tomorrow's expected landing and zodiac cruise. We were shown an ice chart that showed us the sea ice in relation to the places that we hope to visit. It was interesting. The short lectures afterwards were extremely interesting, including a story about Tom Crean, an Irish sailor who joined Robert Scott on an expedition to Antarctica, and also Ernest Shackleton's to Antarctica. You can read more about him and his interesting life (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tom_Crean_(explorer) ).    Read more

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