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Ushuaia, Antarctica, Ushuaia
  • Lorna Spaas
  • Paul Spaas

Ushuaia, Antarctica, Ushuaia

Round trip with 7 days in Antarctica. More adventures! Read more
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  • Trip start
    November 4, 2024
    Ushuaia, Antarctica, Ushuaia

    Ushuaia and Departure for Antarctica

    November 4, 2024 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Today guests disembarked as did some crew. Paul and I went into town to look for snow googles. Sunglasses in Antarctica helped in a big way but I found that wind blowing the snow behind my sunglasses was uncomfortable. The snow crystals hurt my eyes, a bit like a sharp pinprick to the eyeball, so we thought it would be a good idea to protect our eyes a bit more on a bad, windy, snowy day. Everything is so expensive in Ushuaia so we had to watch the pennies. We found reasonably priced snow goggles after going into quite a few shops and wearing the soles of our shoes thin!

    I also bought a base layer thermal set as my current set is falling apart from being washed so much. The prices were hefty, men and women's, but in the end I found a children's set which was half the price of that of a pair of adult's thermal leggings or top on its own! (E.g. about €58 euros for the children's set compared to over €100 for say just a pair of adult leggings or top base layer.) So we were pleased.

    When we got back to the ship we looked at the label, which was a European based price label. We actually paid over 20 euros more than what was actually on the European label, vs the Argentinian price label (bearing in mind the official exchange rate when we calculated it). Never mind. We supported the economy....

    New guests are on the ship and at around 4pm we all had to attend a mandatory lifeboat briefing and then a briefing about what to expect over the next few days. Guests will have to also watch a t.v. presentation about what to do in an emergency, and won't be able to access any t.v. programmes until they have done so.

    The Pursuit has now set sail to Antarctica. Paul is already on the Bridge. His shift has changed to crewing circumstances for the time being. So his shift is 6pm until midnight and then around 12 noon until 4pm. At least he can get some kip in the later evenings rather than having to go through the night and then try to sleep during the day. We shall see how things go!    Read more

  • Ushuaia, Antarctica, Ushuaia

    Turning Around, Crew Member Sick

    November 5, 2024, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ⛅ 3 °C

    Paul spent the better part of the morning catching up on sleep after his shift finished at 2am.

    Just after lunch, an announcement was made that the ship was heading back to Ushuaia. A crew member was very sick. (It is usually best not to go to Antarctica when sick because there is no quick way to get someone airlifted to hospital.)

    Soon after the announcement I went to the Bridge for a bit. You can see photographs of the screen which shows depth readings taken by different ships. Red is for shallower areas. White areas have still yet to be depth recorded or it is too deep. The ship does have a depth sounder, which helps and will also record and add to the data available to ships. And you can see the image of the sea floor.

    On another screen, you can see the track we have made and the turn around point to head back towards Ushuaia.

    We arrived at the pilot station sometime after 9pm and the crew member was offloaded onto a pilot boat and will be taken to hospital.

    In the meantime the ship has now turned around and is heading back to antarctica. She has picked up speed so we should make up some lost time and should hopefully arrive on time at the scheduled destination on 7th November.    Read more

  • Ushuaia, Antarctica, Ushuaia

    Drake Passage, Sea Day 2

    November 6, 2024, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌬 -4 °C

    It has been a quiet day and I've been catching up on a bit of sleep. The motion of the ocean certainly does its job well.

    The ship is making good progress and we are certainly making up for lost time. We should arrive on time tomorrow at Half Moon Island.

    After a briefing about what is going to happen tomorrow, I had a bath and am now ready to have an early night. I'm very tired....    Read more

  • Ushuaia, Antarctica, Ushuaia

    Half Moon Island, South Shetland Islands

    November 7, 2024 in Antarctica ⋅ ☁️ -4 °C

    There were no more hiccups during the crossing and we arrived in Half Moon Island on time for the first group of guests to head out in zodiacs at 7:30am.

    Paul was awake in time to come to the island me but we were delayed getting off. A gentleman was brought back to shore with the medical team and we were ushered back up the steps to the boot room so that the stretcher team could get him off. A woman next to us started crying and a guest asked her if she was ok. She was the gentleman's wife and apparently he had fainted shoreside for no obvious reason. She was naturally upset and worried.

    After a short time, we were allowed to continue to the zodiac.

    Not far from the landing site there was a seal and her youngster, relaxing. We had a nice walk up to the crest of a hill to a colony Chinstrap Penguins, and had nice views of the bay on the other side of the island. Kayakers were in the water. The scenery was beautiful. We took a walk over the crest of the hill and down to the other side of the island to a short peninsula. Earlier there had been a colony of seals but we didn't see them. We saw Gentoo penguins swimming in the water near us though.

    Walking through the snow was quite hard and by the time we got back to the crest of the hill, we were hot and tired.

    Once back on board the ship, we had hot chocolate to warm up and then went to have an early lunch in the crew mess. Paul had to be back on the Bridge by 12 noon. I read for a bit in the Bow Lounge until the housekeepers had cleaned our room.

    I was going to go out on a zodiac cruise to Edinburgh Hill - a basalt plug that I had cruised around last week. In the end I didn't go. I was feeling very cold and tired, and ended up having a nap. I know I shouldn't miss opportunities to get out but my sleep was a main priority - I was shattered.    Read more

  • Ushuaia, Antarctica, Ushuaia

    Davis Island Zodiac Cruise

    November 8, 2024 in Antarctica ⋅ ☀️ -6 °C

    This morning was perfect on arrival. Sunny, glassy sea, different sized ice bergs, growlers (smaller ice bergs), , bergy bits, and sea ice. It was lovely. My group had an early departure and Paul was still sleeping so I crept around trying not to make any noise as I got dressed.

    The zodiac cruise was nice, however the group of people I was with kept wanting to have selfies taken so we didn’t do much exploring!    Read more

  • Ushuaia, Antarctica, Ushuaia

    Palaver Point/Two Hummock Island

    November 8, 2024 in Antarctica ⋅ ☁️ -3 °C

    This afternoon there were delays in getting to the island because the expedition team found it difficult to find a landing spot due to snow. They had to cut steps into ice and snow, and then stake out a path for guests to follow. The groups were running half an hour late to start with, but then my group was only 15 minutes later than scheduled.

    Paul was till on the Bridge by the time I left to go ashore.

    I had a pleasant walk up the hill to a viewpoint. There were good views of the bay down to the ship. There were 2 other viewing points to see the penguins lower down so I visited them on my way back to the zodiacs.

    Paul was having a nap when I got back to the ship so I had a hot chocolate and then sat quietly in another section of the room until he woke up.    Read more

  • Ushuaia, Antarctica, Ushuaia

    Cuverville Island

    November 9, 2024 in Antarctica ⋅ ☁️ -4 °C

    Paul was asleep when my alarm went off at 7:00. I was tired but decided I must get up.

    The landing was in a bit of a different spot, and the walk up the hill was different too, but there were still lovely views. The viewpoint wasn't as close to the penguin colony at the top as last time, but the walk along the coast was the same and the penguin colonies have become larger now. Stopping points to view the colonies at either end of the walk along the shoreline had markers so guests didn't get too close to the penguins.

    I got cross with a guest, because he was hellbent on walking fast to get to a penguin colony to take pictures. But he didn't give way and give a wide berth to a penguin that was near where he was walking. The poor penguin got a fright and had to move out of the way quickly. When the same guy came walking back fast, a penguin was crossing our walking path and I had to shout at him to slow down and stop to allow the penguin to cross. It amazes me about the ignorance of people that we are in nature's territory and that we have to respect that. But nope, some humans are very selfish.

    We are now sailing towards Von Beneden Head where we will do zodiac cruises this afternoon.    Read more

  • Ushuaia, Antarctica, Ushuaia

    Von Beneden Head

    November 9, 2024 in Antarctica ⋅ ⛅ -2 °C

    After lunch Paul had to go back on the Bridge for a few hours and therefore couldn’t come on the zodiac cruise with me.

    It was a breathtaking cruise while the ship went up the channel. We saw a seal relaxing on some rocks. Icebergs, sculptured by nature, were picture perfect and photographs cannot do it justice. I felt emotional by the beauty of the surrounds and am grateful to be alive!

    When I got back there were some snowy sheathbills on the bow of the ship and one of them looked as if it wanted to come inside the door. Sweet.

    The ship is now heading towards Lemaire Channel and hopefully we will be able to pass through the channel if it isn't too iced up. Our destination is Petermann Island.    Read more

  • Ushuaia, Antarctica, Ushuaia

    Booth Island, Port Charcot

    November 10, 2024 in Antarctica ⋅ ☁️ -3 °C

    Paul was awake this morning when we were woken up by announcements overriding the ‘silent’ switch that is in the cabin. There was a change in plan. Lemaire Channel was full of ice and it wasn’t possible to go through it to Petermann Island.

    So ‘Plan B’ came into force. We were near Port Charcot, Booth Island, so it was the best option for the morning to do a landing. Paul was quite wide awake and decided to get up with me and head ashore.

    It was overcast but not windy, so it was pleasant although cold. We took a walk up to a cairn, dedicated to the French explorer, Jean-Baptiste Charcot. It’s comprised of a wooden column and a plaque inscribed with the names of the first French Antarctic expedition led by Jean-Baptiste E. A. Charcot.

    Due to quite a walk involved, about a 3 km round trip, Paul and I decided to go up to the cairn first and then seen the penguins afterwards, but by the time we got near the penguin colonies, it was time to head back to the ship so we didn’t go there, however we did see some penguins on our way down, in small groups.

    Three types of penguins can be found on the island: Gentoo, Chinstrap and Adelie penguins. We did see small groups of penguins as we walked up to the monument and back down to the ship. They are so sweet.

    On the way back to the ship, our zodiac driver decided to give us a quick tour to see some penguins near the shoreline, on the island, before heading back to the ship. There were a few penguins wanting to go into the water but were hesitant. As we sailed back to the ship, we saw groups of penguins porpoising to where their friends were on the rocks, and it was interesting to see some of them shooting out of the water onto the rocks!    Read more

  • Ushuaia, Antarctica, Ushuaia

    Pleneau Bay Zodiac Cruise

    November 10, 2024 in Antarctica ⋅ ⛅ -2 °C

    Just around the corner of Booth Island is Pleneau Bay/Iceberg Graveyard, which is where the expedition team decided to do the zodiac tour this afternoon. Skies were clear and blue. It turned out to be a beautiful afternoon.

    I had the expedition team leader, Juan, as our guide today, and he was excellent in having a knack of where to go to show us interesting bergs.

    As we headed back to the ship, he cut the zodiac’s engines and we had a minute’s silence, listening to the sounds of nature in Antarctica. He asked another zodiac driver, who was nearby, to cut her engine too. It was peaceful and surreal. My heart is filled with love for this place.

    Unfortunately Paul was unable to join me because he had to work. The poor chap got an earful of how the zodiac cruise went, when we eventually met up.

    In the evening I was invited by 4 Australian guests to join them for dinner. They were very good company and it was a nice night.    Read more

  • Ushuaia, Antarctica, Ushuaia

    Port Lochroy Zodiac Cruise

    November 11, 2024 in Antarctica ⋅ ⛅ -2 °C

    We couldn’t get into Paradise Bay because it was blocked with ice so ‘Plan B’ came to fruition and a zodiac ride was organised instead, just off the Neumeyer channel, in Port Lochroy off Goudier Island.

    It was a nice morning to start off with and the first groups started their zodiac cruise around nearby Doumer Island and bay, and the ship sailed nearby. The zodiacs returned to the ship for the next group of guests and continued around to and around Boogie island while the ship turned around and made her way back to Port Lochroy.

    I was in one of the last groups to go out to complete the circumnavigation of the island that the zodiacs had done. It was chilly and overcast but nice enough until we rounded the corner into the channel. The wind was quite strong and the further up the channel we got, it was not quite so pleasant.

    In the middle of the cruise one of the zodiac drivers made a mayday call to the other zodiacs nearby. Wolfgang had lost steering and was unable to steer the zodiac. Nearby zodiacs went to his aid including our zodiac. Ben tied up to the zodiac as did another expedition team member so we made a small floating raft. We headed up the channel a bit, tied together but in the end it was difficult to make much speed because of the strong wind and choppy seas. To make it lighter, some guests were offloaded to our zodiac, and to the other zodiac on the other side of the stricken zodiac. In the end 4 were guests were left with Wolfgang. Another team member came alongside with a zodiac, near the bow of Wolfgang's zodiac, and tied a tow rope. Once everything was in place, we unhitched from the zodiac and continued up the channel but keeping near towed zodiacs. It was fantastic to see the teams pulling together to ensure the guests were safe and that the zodiac in question was safe. By then the wind was worse and waves kept hitting the bow of the zodiac. Those at the front got very wet and were quite cold too. I missed most of getting wet because I moved sideways into the boat from my forward position, so that I sat on a box by the bow but I was sightly more sheltered, except if I faced into the wind and waves, and got a face full of water!

    We eventually rounded the corner and saw the ship. We sighed with relief, especially those who were very wet. Once Ben dropped us off, he headed back to the stricken zodiac, which wasn’t far behind us, and collected the rest of the guests so that the zodiac could be brought alongside the ship and hitched up out of the water straight away. It was too risky to offload the guests ship-side while it was still in tow.

    I headed straight for the Colonnade for a hot chocolate to defrost. It was so good!    Read more

  • Ushuaia, Antarctica, Ushuaia
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    Port Lochroy Polar Plunge

    November 11, 2024 in Antarctica ⋅ ☁️ -1 °C

    The ship remained in her position and after lunch guests did the polar plunge. I went in too! Like the last polar plunge, the excitement amongst those doing the plunge was electric. And staff were having a wonderful time in the landing zone, listening and bopping to the music, encouraging guests and psyching them up. We were offered spirits or hot chocolate after the plunge. I had hot chocolate laced with rum.

    This time there was plenty of time for staff to have a dip too. I didn’t stay to watch because by then I was having a nice hot shower!

    In the evening I joined a group of eight guests for dinner. Paul wasn’t able to make it but it was kind of the Australians to invite me. Three couples were Australians, another couple were from the US.

    After dinner I saw some people coming in off the bow of the ship. We had reached the morning's destination, an ice shelf, and had put the ship's nose in briefly to test it. It seemed favourable so we are going to stay in the area now. It was snowing but I went outside (without a jacket on) to take a few photographs despite the dim light. I wasn't as cold as I thought I would be but a guest wanted to give me her jacket but I refused as I didn't feel too cold. I did head indoors though, when I got cold!    Read more

  • Ushuaia, Antarctica, Ushuaia

    Wilhelmina Bay & Portal Point

    November 12, 2024, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌫 -3 °C

    In Wilhelmina Bay the Captain managed to settle the ship in the ice plate but it took quite a few goes before the ice stopped breaking. As we didn't go up to the Bridge nor the bow of the ship, we took photos from our balcony, and the t.v. showing scenes from the bow camera.

    The route plotted for the ice walk was shorter than the previous walk because of cracks in the nice near the bow of the ship but they didn't get any larger and staff were on high alert in case it 'zipped' open a channel. Zodiacs were on the edge of the ice with their drivers waiting and watching just in case. Those that went on the ice enjoyed themselves.

    Paul and I decided not to go. The weather wasn't that great and also Paul had to be on the bridge so it would have been too rushed for him.

    After a morning of fun for guests, the ship sailed to Portal Point where zodiacs took them ashore. By the time it was my group's turn to go ashore, the weather was miserable outside so I decided not to go.    Read more

  • Ushuaia, Antarctica, Ushuaia

    Deception Island, Whalers & Telefon Bays

    November 13, 2024 in Antarctica ⋅ ☁️ 0 °C

    Paul and I went out for a bit in the morning to see the former whaling station. It was a pleasant walk along the beach to see some old boats, and then back along the beach to see the processing pots and former buildings. The snow has receded a bit since last week. There was a lot more penguin guano and we had to scrub our boots before we got inside the zodiac. We also had to do this when we got inside the ship, to get rid of any residue.

    In the afternoon Paul had to got to work so he couldn't go ashore in Telefon Bay. I was looking forward to going ashore and going to the crater rim, but by the time my group was called, the weather turned, and it became raining and sleety, and we couldn't see much outside. It is a pity! I know that the ship will come here another time, so hopefully there will be a nice opportunity to go ashore again.    Read more

  • Ushuaia, Antarctica, Ushuaia

    2 Days at Sea & Arrival in Ushuaia

    November 15, 2024 in Argentina ⋅ 🌬 6 °C

    We have had almost two days at sea and arrived early this evening in Ushuaia rather than tomorrow morning. It is nice because staff can get off the ship for a few hours and enjoy a bit of down time. Guests were also allowed to go ashore too, for a meal or to explore the town.

     Paul had to be on the Bridge for arrival but he was able to get to dinner in time just as the menu orders were being taken. We joined 8 guests for a meal and had a lovely evening with them, There were 6 Australians and 2 Americans.

    Our table was the last to finish - we had all been enjoying ourselves!    Read more

    Trip end
    November 15, 2024
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