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Venture: Iceland & Greenland
  • Lorna Spaas
  • Paul Spaas

Venture: Iceland & Greenland

A 29-day adventure by Lorna & Paul Read more
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  • Trip start
    July 12, 2025
    Venture: Iceland & Greenland

    Schiphol International Airport

    July 12 in the Netherlands ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Our adventures begin. We are flying to Iceland!

    On our way to the airport, we missed the train from Zoetermeer by seconds. We ended up catching 2 trams and a train to the airport.

    At one of the tram stations, there was a lovely ginger car sunning itself on the platform!Read more

  • Venture: Iceland & Greenland

    Arrival in Reykjavik

    July 12 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    We are safely in Reykjavik.

    Unfortunately, during the flight, the person behind me didn't like me lowering the back of my seat. I kept getting bangs and jiggles for a good 15 minutes to half an hour. I was tired and wanted to sleep, so I managed to ignore it.

    There was a 15 minute wait for our luggage at carousel 5 but then the notification of the luggage from our flight disappeared but no other notification as to where it would go. We walked over to carousel number 6, and yes, it was being loaded there.

    The taxi driver turned out to be the same chap who brought us to our hotel in May. It's nice to see familiar faces.

    We are staying at a different hotel, the Sandholt, in the middle of town. We have been given a room up near the roof eaves. It's lovely.    Read more

  • Venture: Iceland & Greenland

    Reykjavik, Seabourn Venture

    July 13 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    I had a bad night again, not sleeping well, and ranging from hot to cold. Paul has also caught whatever I have got and is feeling unwell, too.

    Our driver picked us up and took us to the old port, not far from town. We could have probably walked to the ship, but we are glad we didn't. It rained on and off.

    We had to wait for a while in the Seabourn Square before I could get my cabin key but in the meantime, we had to avoid being in close proximity to anyone in case we passed on our germs.

    There are quite a few familiar faces amongst the staff and expedition team, so it is like home from home.

    Once we got my cabin key, we went to the cabin and stayed there until we had to see immigration and then go to the safety briefing.

    This was followed by what to expect on board, meeting the team, and what we can expect tomorrow and the next few days.

    We sat well away from everyone and couldn't wait to get back to the "safety" of our cabin.    Read more

  • Venture: Iceland & Greenland
    112 ways to say "wind" in Icelandic

    Grundarfjordor, Iceland

    July 13 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Paul and I had an early night. Fortunately, we did because we were woken up at 7am by announcements that we had arrived in Grundarfjordor. We were still tired, though.

    I think the back of the virus is broken, and we seem to have more of a cold now. But climbing any stairs feels like climbing Mt Everest.

    Paul had to go briefly for an induction for newly embarked crew - lifeboats, life jackets, etc.

    Towards midday, when most gusts had left the ship to go on excursions, Paul and I stepped off the ship for an hour or so to walk around the small town that is set in stunning surroundings. We needed to get some proper fresh air into our lungs and a bit of exercise. We met a fluffy calico cat along the way - very friendly and purring away while settling in the sun next to a flower pot.

    I had been disappointed that we missed out on a lovely 7 hour tour. We didn’t put our names on the tour list to go because it would not be fair on guests if we "kindly" passed on our germs.

    As soon as we got back to the ship, we headed back to the cabin and have spent the rest of the day resting.    Read more

  • Venture: Iceland & Greenland

    Sea day, heading to Greenland

    July 15, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    Paul was called at around 11pm during the night for fog and ice watch. His hours, under the current captain, are 9pm to 4am if required.

    As it is a sea day, we slept in late, and announcements didn't start until later.

    Paul and I got our Bog boots and stored them in a designated cubby hole in the mud room. I had to go and attend a mandatory AECO briefing about what we can and cannot do in the Arctic regions we are visiting. Respecting nature and its surroundings as well as those who live in these areas.

    Paul sat in the bow lounge, and I joined him for a short time while waiting for our room to be serviced and then headed back for more rest.

    Although we are feeling much better, we still have a cough, and we feel it is better to stay away from guests as much as possible.

    Tomorrow, we will reach Scoresbysund and will hopefully do our first zodiac cruise if the weather and ice are favourable.    Read more

  • Venture: Iceland & Greenland

    Scoresbysund zodiac cruise

    July 16 in Greenland ⋅ ☀️ 3 °C

    Paul was called during the night for ice duty and came back sometime after 5am. He got a photograph of the sunset, but the sun didn't set.

    I was awake around 8.30am but not wanting to wake Paul up, relaxed in bed for a while until he woke up. Unfortunately I missed a lecture at 9.30am but we watched a later lecture from our t.v. screen about the Greenlandic people. It was a nice talk given by a woman from Greenland about their culture and way of life.

    We arrived at Scoresbysund around lunchtime, and we joined guests for a zodiac cruise amongst bergy bits and to sea ice onto which Meryl, our driver, beached the zodiac. We got out and stood in a demarkated area on the frozen sea. Meanwhile, there was a bear guard keeping watch.

    We had to use another zodiac to get back to the ship because the one we left the ship in started to cut out when we went fast towards the sea ice. Meryl radio'd the Bridge that there was a problem despite checking the fuel supply line and other things. A member of the expedition team came across to us on the sea ice in an empty zodiac, and Meryl requisitioned it, and the wayward zodiac was taken back to the ship.

    We got back to the ship without any further hiccups.    Read more

  • Venture: Iceland & Greenland

    Ittoqqortoormiit

    July 17 in Greenland ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Paul wasn't called during the night for ice duty, fortunately.

    Overnight, we slowly crossed Scoresbysund in a northerly direction at a speed of only 5 knots as per guidelines for sailing in this area.

    The sun was out, there were blue skies, and it was a beautiful day when we arrived just off the coast of Ittoqqortoormiit, a remote Greenland settlement.

    Paul and I were here last year, so we decided to join expedition staff and guests for a walk to Walrus Bay rather than taking a walk around town.

    We took a zodiac ashore and met up with 3 expedition staff and a local chap. They each had a rifle in case any bears were encountered. But the first line of action would be to fire a flare to frighten a bear and only shooting if absolutely necessary.

    The walk took us through town and along a coastal track to a sandy bay and back again. During the 5.5km walk, there were plenty of stops to talk about the life of those living in Ittoqqortoormiit. We also passed packs of dogs who would be used in autumn, winter, and spring to pull sledges across snow and frozen seas. I was sad to see the dogs tied up, unable to run or exercise. They just sit there day after day in the same spot. I felt awful for them. At least they are well fed, though.

    There was plenty of snow on the ground still, but we were overdressed for the walk in our ski trousers, Bogs boots, and jackets. I had a t- shirt on under the jackets, so I was able to take off some layers.

    The roads are unpaved and got a little dusty when a quad bike or utility vehicles passed our walking group.

    At least we got out and made the most of a beautiful morning.

    The group got back to the zodiacs a bit later than planned, but we were soon whisked back to the ship for a late lunch.

    The ship was going to go up a fijord this afternoon for some scenic cruising, but there was too much ice.

    We shall see what tomorrow brings.    Read more

  • Venture: Iceland & Greenland

    Sydkap/Nordostbugt

    July 18 in Greenland ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    After plowing through ice during the early evening, we got through it to sea-ice free open water of the sund.

    Paul was called at 10pm for ice duty and didn’t come to bed until after 4am this morning.

    When my alarm went off at 7am, I shut it down quickly, not wanting to wake Paul up.

    My colour group for the morning's landing was the first to go at 7.30am.

    Stepping ashore, there was a massive welcoming committee of mosquitoes. They feasted on any bit of skin available. Most people wore hat nets, but I didn't have one. At least my sunhat protected my ears, and my sunglasses helped to keep the mozzies from my face. They made a beeline for the rest of my face and uncovered wrists, so I had to jam my hands deep into my coat pockets and keep pursing my lips to blow the mozzies from my face. I have a thick chin from some bites and swollen wrists.

    Seeing the tundra of mosses, tiny plants, and flowers was a far cry from the seemingly barren and rocky Ittoqqortoormiit yesterday. There were rocky outcrops in Nordostbugt, but there was life. There were some musk oxen skulls, butterflies, Arctic terns... We were able to see the ruins of a former Greenlandic house - made of stones but caved in. Across the side of the bay were hunting lodges where the Tunumiit stay during hunting expeditions.

    I was very glad to get back to the ship, away from the mosquitoes. Unfortunately, they settled on us even when the zodiac driver went quite fast, so everyone was patting each other's backs and arms to get rid of any clinging mosquitoes so we didn't carry them back into the ship.

    Paul was still asleep when I got back to the cabin, so I read for a bit.

    I am going to see if the onboard shop has hat nets as they will be needed again in other areas where we are going to.    Read more

  • Venture: Iceland & Greenland

    Greenland National Park

    July 18 in Greenland ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    After lunch, Paul and I took a walk past the onboard shop and bought a head net. It was very expensive for a small bit of circular netting that goes over a hat. I think we could have got them cheaper on land, but we didn't want to wait, just in case.

    This afternoon, we have been sailing further up Scoresbysund and in the northwest channel, which is fjord-like and narrow, and goes into Greenland National Park.

    There are lots of glaciers coming from high up in the mountains. There have been lots of very large icebergs, too.

    Paul and I sat on the cabin balcony, enjoying the scenery and warm sun.

    At around 8 p.m., the Venture will turn around and start heading back the same way that she sailed.    Read more

  • Venture: Iceland & Greenland

    Bear Islands

    July 19 in Greenland ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

    We sailed back through the narrow fijord during the night and arrived at a series of islands in Scoresbysund.

    The weather was so nice that the zodiac cruises this morning took longer than expected.

    The zodiac cruise around one of the islands was interesting. The beatifil rocky formations, high peaks of the islands, lots of interesting icebergs, and bergy bits. We saw a seal in the water - a curious chap which kept its distance.

    We were late back for lunch, so hurried to get our gear off.

    The polar plunge is going to start later because the zodiacs were back later.    Read more

  • Venture: Iceland & Greenland

    Polar plunge, Scoresbysund

    July 19 in Greenland ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

    During lunchtime, the Venture left the Bear Islands archipelago and started her journey back through Scoresbysund towards Greenland's coast. She eventually came to a stop so that the polar plunge could take place.

    I decided not to do the plunge because I've still got a cough, so we decided to sit in one of the hot tubs for a bit instead. We could see what was happening from the 9th floor, and I took a photograph or two. It was nice to relax in the hot tub - no pressure at all.

    The polar plunge didn't last long. Only 37 guests jumped out of nearly 200 people. It's a pity, but not everyone is fond of the cold, and this group is mainly from Australia! Go figure!    Read more

  • Venture: Iceland & Greenland

    Denmark Strait

    July 20 in Greenland ⋅ ☁️ 1 °C

    This morning, there was a very early morning zodiac cruise between 2 islands off the east Greenland coast. Sadly, I didn't go because I slept in. I also knew that by setting the alarm clock early - it would have woken Paul up. He had got to bed after 4am. this morning.

    Many lucky guests got to see a polar bear and her cub. This was spotted by the Captain. He got the prize for being the first person to spot a polar bear on this cruise. The prize? Big bar of Toblerone chocolate!

    The ship set sail again, just after 9am and we have been heading in a north easterly direction through a "window of opportunity" in the ice rather than sailing quite a bit south to get around it.

    Progress has been slow at times as we zigzagged through sea ice sheets, sometimes down to 1 knot or less in speed. Once or twice, we were stopped by very thick ice until a path opened up, or an alternative direction around the ice was found, or we plowed through and knocked the ice sheets. We will eventually head south once we have got through the band of ice.

    Visibility hasn't been good either - fog and more fog.    Read more

  • Venture: Iceland & Greenland

    Denmark Strait - sea day

    July 21, Denmark Strait ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    We had a relaxing day, reading or listening to interesting lectures given by members of the expedition team.

    Fin whales were spotted, as was a blue whale, and some pilot whales. Every time they were seen, the ship slowed down and very slowly went in their direction for a better look. There were many happy guests!Read more

  • Venture: Iceland & Greenland

    Akureyri, Iceland

    July 22 in Iceland ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    Wonders of Lake Mývatn excursion.

    We are back in Iceland again, having sailed down Iceland's longest fijord, Eyjafjordur, to Akureyri.

    The Volendam is in Port today. It was good to see her again.

    We did a tour, so it was good to get off the ship and explore.

    We left town and crossed the Fjord via a bridge and followed the Fjord road for a while. We went up the Vikurskard Pass and could see Fnjoskadalur Valley, where geological remains of glacial and post-glacial times be seen.

    From there, we headed to the Godafoss Waterfalls, which were quite pretty. The Skjalfandafljot River falls from a height of 36 feet over a breadth of 100 feet. The waterfalls were in a slight horseshoe formation.

    From there, we visited Lake Mývatn with its small pseudo-craters, the Skutustadir Craters. The area is full of flies, so we wore headnets during our walk. The lake is quite shallow and, therefore, warms up very easily, and there is a lot of algae growth on the lake bottom. There are many duck species and swans that feed on the algae, fly larvae, and the flies themselves.

    We had a lovely but simple fish lunch at the nearby Lake Mývatn Hotel.

    After lunch, we headed to Dimmeuborgir lava labyrinth, where we walked on paved paths around some volcanoe lava formations.

    As the tour drew to a close, we did one last stop in the Jardbodin or Mývatn Nature Baths, which are filled withgeothermal water. After a thorough wash with soap, we could enter the milky blue warm sulphur-smelling water. There was lava gravel underfoot. The baths were about 1m deep only - quite shallow. One area was warmer than the other, and there was a pool bar that one could purchase drinks from.

    Why shower before entering the baths? They are natural and not chlorinated. The water comes from a hot spring, which feeds the baths and seeps away.

    It was sad to see quite a few, mainly female visitors (not from our ship) clutching their mobile phones, holding them above the water. Why, oh, why can't they leave their mobile phones in their lockers. They were glued to them! I know some places ban the use of phones in spas and baths.

    After nearly 2 hours, we headed back to Akureyri but first went around the rest of Lake Mývatn. Instead of going back over the pass, we went through a 7km tunnel through the mountains back to Akureyri.    Read more

  • Venture: Iceland & Greenland

    Húsavík

    July 23 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Paul and I took a walk into town and noticed tendering operations going on. The Volendam is at anchor, just on the other side of the harbour wall!

    We stopped where the Volendam tenders were docking and had a chat with the Chief Security Officer and another staff member who recognised us. As we were about to continue our walk, we also met Debbie, the Shore Excursions Manager, whom we have known for a long time. It was lovely to catch up briefly.

    We continued into town and made our way along the coastal road to the post office and then continued on a road out of town until we got to a path that took us back into town via a river and park. It was a pretty walk, but we were glad to have rain suits on because of drizzle and foliage being wet. My hiking shoes were soaked through within minutes and were wheezing every time I took a step.

    On the way back to the ship, we visited the Whale Museum, which was rather interesting.

    While waiting our turn to enter, there was a couple having a meltdown and letting off steam with a museum staff member. I gathered they booked a whale watching tour and were given clothes/suits prior to the tour. Apparently, they said that when they booked the tour, they were not told that they had to wear the suits they were given - otherwise, they wouldn't have booked the tour. Because she didn't want to wear the suit, she didn't go on the whale watching tour. Oh boy... those suits are a necessity when you are on the water. They are almost like survival gear for this part of the world. The poor museum chap... We didn't hear the outcome because we presented our ship cards to the museum chap's colleague and went into the museum

    After the museum we went to the local supermarket to look for liquorice ice cream, but the supermarket was very small. We should have gone to Netto near the post office. It's not the end of the world.

    We had a pleasant walk back to the ship where I was very happy to take my wet hiking shoes and socks off where they are now drying in a warm cupboard with a heater.    Read more

  • Venture: Iceland & Greenland

    Seyðisfjörður

    July 24 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Paul and I took a lovely walk to the base of a waterfall not far from the ship.

    From there, we walked along a track on the side of a valley, past houses, and out of town. The track took us to the main road, which we followed back into town.

    There wasn't much in town to see, but it was a pretty place, and locals were friendly. We went past the church and past a few gift shops. We popped into the local supermarket, hoping to get liquorice ice cream, but there wasn't any. One of the shop staff surprised us with her very British accent. We should have asked how she ended up living in Iceland!

    Having wandered around the tiny town, we wandered back to the ship.

    We have set sail towards our next port, Heimay. We went to the hot tub to watch the beautiful scenery of the fijord. As we got to the open sea, the wind got up, and the fog set in. It was time to leave the hot tub as, by then, we were well bubbled out.    Read more

  • Venture: Iceland & Greenland

    Heimaey, Westman Islands, Iceland

    July 25 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Paul had a short callout for fog duty during the night, but it was short-lived, and he was back just over half an hour later.

    The winds have been stronger overnight and seas rougher, too, so we have been rocking and rolling a bit.

    Once we reached the narrow but stunning entrance into Heimaey this morning, we were sheltered.

    Unfortunately, it was raining on arrival, and it was pretty much like that all day. Sometimes a light drizzle, sometimes relentless rain.

    While there was a light drizzle, we decided to get off the ship for a walk and followed a coastal path for quite a while. The path took us through lava fields, and at one point, the path disappeared due to a dirt road construction to the sea. The sides of the road were too steep to climb down, so we managed to find an alternative route down. When we found the track on the other side of the road, it was steep, and the loose lava was tricky to climb up. We made it, though, and continued following the path through the lava fields until we reached a tarred road.

    We could follow the road back into town or visit a volcano or follow tracks back to town. Despite rain gear, we were wet - the quality of the rain trousers are not good, and our trousers started to feel damp due to leaks through the rain trousers. My hiking shoes and socks were soaked through, too. The steepness of the volcano track and the relentless rain made us rethink about the rest of the walk. We decided to follow tracks to town. Unfortunately, quarrying had covered the paths that we were meant to follow, so we had to navigate our way across it until we hit a dirt road that that we would have met up with in the end. We followed it in the pouring rain and were glad we had chosen not to climb up to the volcano - visibility would have been severely limited at the top due to rain.

    The dirt road ended, and we followed a track back to town. No sooner had we got into town, the rain eased to a light drizzle. Sod's law!

    We made our way back to the ship, my hiking shoes wheezing with every step.

    It was good to get back on board the ship to dry off. Our clothes are in a warm wardrobe with a heater in it, drying off now.

    Departure on the way out of port was pretty as we sailed back out of the narrow entrance into open waters.

    We are heading to Reykjavik.    Read more

  • Venture: Iceland & Greenland

    Reykjavik

    July 26 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Today was a turnaround day. Guests left the ship, and a new lot came on board.

    Paul and I had to move to another cabin. Only NEXT DOOR!🙄 Fortunately, it was next door.

    Guests had to vacate their cabins by 8am, and, out of curiosity, Paul put his nose around the corner to see if we could move in. Not only was it empty, but also the housekeepers had already cleaned and made the room for us. Wow! We quickly moved our stuff and then went back to strip the linen off the bed and put the towels and bathroom floor mats with the linen - just to help the housekeepers out.

    A bit later, we had a wander around town, getting some liquorice ice cream (yummy) and walking to a church, and then headed back to the ship via various shops. I managed to pick up a pair of children's pure wool socks for myself, UK size 2; merino wool thermals and a nice sweater - which looks like one of Paul's!

    Back on the ship, I got a new key card for the new room.

    The ship is now heading back to Heimaey for this new cruise. More of our itinerary will follow as I write my daily blogs.    Read more

  • Venture: Iceland & Greenland

    Haimaey, Iceland

    July 27 in Iceland ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    We arrived at Heimaey at around 7am with a view to doing scenic zodiac cruising off the island and some small islands close by. Unfortunately, the winds were too strong to set the zodiacs in the water, so there was a change of plan.

    The ship itself did a bit of scenic cruising along the island coastline, and the strong powerful camera on board panned to the cliffs so we could see puffins and other birds nesting on the cliffs. The cliffs themselves were impressive.

    We were due to dock at a different pier because another cruise ship was going to be in port. They cancelled because the wind was too strong, so we were able to use the same berth as we used 2 days ago.

    The weather was absolutely gorgeous, so we were able to make the most of the good weather to walk up Eldfell volcano, which erupted in 1973. The wind up at the top was horrendous so we had to be careful we didn't get blown off.

    After climbing down, we had enough energy to walk up an older, extinct volcano, Helgafell. The path was steeper than that going up Eldfell. The path we took down was even worse with very loose lava gravel, so we had to make our way down very slowly. We were able to walk around the rim of this crater, and the views were well worth the climb.

     We continued our walk through a bit of a residential area and then along the outskirts of the very beautiful and scenic Vestmannaeyjavöllur golf course, and past a monument to the members of the church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints (Mormons) on the island who moved to Utah.

    We passed 2 viking dwellings on the far side of the golf course and then wandered back through town to ship. To congratulate ourselves on our hike up the 2 volcanoes, we treated ourselves to a mug of hot chocolate.

    The ship is now heading towards Greenland, a day's sailing from here.    Read more

  • Venture: Iceland & Greenland

    Umivik Bay, Greenland

    July 29 in Greenland ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    There wasn't much hope for being able to get into Umivik Bay today, but as we got closer to Greenland late afternoon, the ice cleared.

    The weather had improved as we entered the bay, but sod's law, it started to rain as we did a zodiac cruise in the bay.

    We will be doing a bit of scenic cruising more into the bay this afternoon and this evening.    Read more

  • Venture: Iceland & Greenland

    Skjoldungen Fjord - walk

    July 30 in Greenland ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C

    Despite Paul being up all night, he was awake in time to come ashore with me for a walk.

    We opted for the longer hike, and fortunately, we put on head nets because as soon as we got close to land in the zodiac, mosquitoes came to welcome us with open arms. They tried to find any available patch of exposed skin.

    The first expedition staff member set off at a blistering pace as we walked cross tundra above the waterline for a while. We then met up with another expedition staff member who took us for the rest of the walk, armed with a rifle and flares to frighten any polar bears that we could potentially come across.

    Fortunately, the chap's pace was a lot better! We walked a bit up a beautiful valley, parallel to a river. The scenery was stunning.

    Overall, our walk was a good 1 hour and 45 minutes. Paul and I were totally over-dressed, and despite removing a layer or two, we had to keep something long sleeved on to prevent a mozzie attack. We were stewing when we got back to the zodiacs, and my feet were steaming in the Bogs boots.

    At least no mozzies had bitten through.

    Just before we got back to the ship, everyone patted each other's backs to get rid of any mosquitoes that had hitched a ride.    Read more

  • Venture: Iceland & Greenland

    Skjoldungen Fjord - Polar Plunge

    July 30 in Greenland ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C

    We sailed a little bit further through the fjord, and the ship was stopped near a glacier for the polar plunge. It was perfect weather for it with beautiful surroundings.

    After a nice drink of the alcoholic kind, I met up with Paul, and we sat in one of the hot tubs for a while as the ship continued her journey through the fijord.Read more

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