On this platform, my “footprints” are postcards to my friends. My home is the country I am in! I am committed to learning its language, and as much as possible about it, while maintaining great curiosity, a sense of humor and increasing acceptance. Message
  • May26

    Three Oaxaca Afternoons

    May 26 in Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Oaxaca and environs have so much variety to offer! I enjoy such rich stimulation—especially with the very low numbers of COVID cases right now. To give you an idea of what there is to do, I highlight three afternoons for you.

    The first, Sunday May 15th, Enrique and I went to the Arts Center in the town of San Augustin, Etla. Etla is a “districto”—county—to the west of the city of Oaxaca, and San Augustin is one of many “municipios”—towns—in that county. The Arts Center is an old textile factory, now housing printing and paper making workshops, as well as two large gallery spaces. We visited the galleries first, and as admittance to the workshops wasn’t allowed, we explored the impressive plantings outside. We lunched in a family home converted to a restaurant, and for dessert we had a conversation with the grandmother about life in San Agustin.

    Two Sundays later on May 23rd, we were back in the Sierra Norte in the hamlet of El Punto for more walking—from 8200 to 6500 feet and back. This was a very slow four-hour hike, in which we examined every bromeliad-covered tree along the way. Before the hike we ate barbequed mutton on black bean-smothered thick corn tortillas, dressed with green, red, and avocado salsas. This was in a 5-table outdoor restaurant with a precipitous mountain view. After the hike we returned to the restaurant, and had “agua de zarzamora,” blackberry juice thinned to a delicious liter of icy fruited water, and a tiny blade of blackberry cheesecake.

    Finally, on May 25, we walked from Enrique’s house to “Cuchillos Aragón,” workshop of Guillermo Aragón, a “metalistero.” This is an invented word, indicating an artist of metal, but he is actually an artist of forging blades for work or decoration: knives, daggers, swords, machetes, scythes, etc. His family goes back to six generations of artisans. Here is a link to a history of their work: https://fahho-mx.translate.goog/los-cuchillos-d….

    There, my treasured Misono professional chef’s knife was re-shaped and sharpened by the master himself. He is also a gentleman of the older generations of Mexican society, “un gran caballero.”

    On the way back, we stopped to admire the Wednesday afternoon “Danzón in the Zócalo.” Danzón is a formal dance originating in Cuba. Perhaps after seeing the video I took, you might want more information! https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Danzón#Mex…

    I do so love living here! And I hope you enjoy the photos which illustrate this description.
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    Splendid photograph. [Judith]


    Wonderful life! You look terrific Doree!



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  • May12

    A Weekend in the Sierra Norte

    May 12 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Hello Everyone! It’s been 13 months since I wrote my first post in my new home of Oaxaca. I’ve found that International Living takes a lot of psychic energy. It is as different from traveling as listening to violin playing is from actually playing the violin. In other words, I’ve been busy learning how to BE in Mexico. Now I’m ready to write about it.

    I manage my own apartment, first rented as an Airbnb property from hosts Paulina and Julián. In April 2021 I became an actual renter, separate from Airbnb, and have remained so. I now have friends, a team of doctors and a dentist for my every need, markets and shops to patronize, a Mexican bank account, a “Circle of Mexican Literature” which I formed, and most importantly, a dear Mexican pareja named Enrique.

    Enrique and I have been a couple since March 2021. We started traveling together last year. Now, as I restart writing in this blog, I feature our latest excursion to the Sierra Norte, to Ixtlán, about two hours and 400 curves into the mountains from Oaxaca. With us were my great friend Vicky and her daughter Estefanía. I hope you enjoy the photos!
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    I'm so happy you are loving life in Oaxaca, Dorée. I hope you will continue this blog, and include pictures of yourself, as well. Since I don't know Spanish, I had to look up "pareja" and read that it means "couple." The way you used it doesn't make sense to me. In other news, perhaps you have seen my FB posts. My son Mikel and I have a sweet German Shepherd puppy named Leopold, now 8 months old. I continue to teach violin online, plus a girl who plays viola and comes to my house. Her school teacher was a student of mine years ago! Time marches on. [Lorraine]


    Great to know you're travelling again, and to a little known part of the country. Keep it up! James. [James C]


    As intrepid a traveler as ever, dear Doree. Love seeing your ever-fascinating journey as it unfolds. Kapkhunkaa for sharing your view from another corner of the world. Victoria XXX [Victoria Vorreiter]

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  • Apr15

    I Have a New Home!

    April 15, 2021 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Hello Everyone, and welcome back to my Experiment in International Living. After a very long gap in communication, I would like to catch you up.

    As with every single one of us, the pandemic has changed our lives significantly. In
    my case, I have stopped living in different countries for three or more months at a time, and
    have stayed in Oaxaca, Mexico, which is, naturally, still “being abroad.”

    A week ago I returned from a trip to the US—Alexandria, Virginia—to get both of my Pfizer vaccines, see dear friends, take care of my taxes, and initiate a big change in my life. I first arranged with the Mexican Consulate in Washington D.C. to obtain a visa to become a permanent resident in Mexico. To do this, I had to be retired, or over 62 years of age, and prove that I wouldn’t be a financial burden on the country. I was able to receive this visa, and three days after I returned to Oaxaca, on April 9, 2021, I received the crucial card to become a Permanent Resident.


    What does this mean? It means that I can do everything that a Mexican can do except vote. (Never mind, I shall continue to do that in the US.) I can work, move about the country, and come and go as I please, internationally. I am an honorary citizen, which I consider a significant honor. I have loved Mexico all my life—its states, its cultures, and above all, Mexicans themselves. Here, I feel that my sentiments are reciprocated fully and warmly. I have indeed “come home.”

    I am in the process of sorting out my life here—mostly doing what I did before my trip to the States. Since I was the polyglot winner of my latest Fluent in 3 Months language challenge, I decided to keep up with my Thai and Chinese studies, as well as to review Japanese, French, and Japanese in casual ways. We don’t know when international travel can safely begin again, and I don’t anticipate it will be as free as it once was for years. So, here’s to my International Life in Oaxaca!
    Here are links to my Fluent in 3 Months “winning” conversations:
    Thai: https://youtu.be/nNGCAM94qNo
    Chinese: https://youtu.be/LI7WGA6kxk0

    There is so much to learn here in Oaxaca, and in Mexico! I need another couple of lifetimes.

    Anyway, love to you all, and please leave your name if you care to leave a message.
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    Congrats on having a new home! My sister Eileen has been happy in Mexico the past 20 years, and we are visiting her next month in La Manzanita— can’t wait. Love Oaxaca, a good choice of landing point (except during annual teacher strike!) Michelr


    Well done for making the move and I'm sure you won't regret it. Wahaca is one of my favourite cities in Mexico! James. [James]


    Congratulations on becoming a permanent resident! Emily and we’re supposed to go to Merida over a year ago and we are still on hold. Clive (my 15-year-old grandson) and I were supposed to go to Panama last summer. That didn’t happen either. Instead the four of us (Emily, Clive, Peter and I) are planning a road trip to Santa Fe this July. That’s it for adventure! Enjoy Oaxaca. Such a wonderful place. Love, carol stern [Carol Stern]


    hi Dorée, you sound happily settled in Oaxaca. When and if , Emily and I get to travel to Mexico, we will go to Merida. We are tentatively planning for January. Our "great road trip" was quite exciting. we took a few mini road trips, first in December to Falling Water and Pittsburgh , and then a few weeks ago to Savannah, Georgia. Clive (now 16) and I are going to Costa Rica with Road Scholar in July. Don't make us wait so long for another post. love, Carol Stern [carol stern]

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  • Day183

    Second Quarantine—in Oaxaca, Mexico

    September 13, 2020 in Mexico ⋅ 🌧 21 °C

    I chose to come to Oaxaca because the state and city (same name) seemed to be handling the COVID virus better than many states in Mexico, and because I’ve stayed here two times before.

    I even am staying in the same AirBnb apartment. My hosts, Paulina and Julian, picked me up at the airport, and brought me back to my very familiar surroundings for another 14-day self-quarantine—something that is not required by the city or state government. Comfort! Space! Solitude! After six and a half months of living together with others, I am finally alone again.

    The quarantine was not difficult. The apartment is long—24 strides—so I walked a brisk 3-4 miles daily, as well as 250 steps every hour. The “cure” for the “Sitter’s Thick Torso” is to walk quickly for at least 10 minutes at a time, 3 times a day. Oh, and to avoid sugar and excess food! Paulina—totally by her own wishes—brought me some “almuerzo,” lunch, at around 5 pm daily—lunch is late here in Oaxaca—see the photos to see what came. She also did my shopping for me. A lovely person.

    And of course, my language studies continued, with the same full schedule as before. Thai, Chinese, Japanese, Italian, French, and now Spanish, of course. The new addition to my schedule is hosting two “Language Parties,” in Italian and Japanese. These are hour-long opportunities to practice speaking, joined by members of my language-learning community.

    On September 10th the quarantine ended, and I was FREE! Free to walk outside the apartment, on to the streets of Oaxaca. But I want to emphasize something important. My being here isn’t a “fun adventure trip” “on the road again” type of circumstance. Oaxaca is hushed with fear, and 80% of the businesses are locked up. Nothing is going on. I am just happy and grateful to be able to be in comfortable surroundings, with kind people, living my life as optimistically as possible.

    Love to you all!
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    Hi Doree---glad to know it's working out OK. Take care! James.


    Greetings Doree--Must be nice to sway from Trump's USA. Enjoy. John


    Flora Brown — Hi Doree, glad to learn you’re safe and enjoying your time in Oaxaca. How wonderful that you’re staying with friendly former hosts and you’ve found a way to exercise and eat healthy meals. Most of all, congratulations on living as optimistically as possible. [Flora Brown]

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  • Day164

    Score: Homestay 99.99%, USA 10%

    August 25, 2020 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    A serene and pleasant home stay here in Laurel, Maryland is coming to an end. The imperfection of the score of this blog post title is due to the one person whose mask fell below her nose at a local supermarket, and an unwilling mask-wearer who made fun of me at a gas station. Nothing to do with my home stay, actually, except that the unpleasant violation of Maryland’s COVID safety rules took place in the neighborhood. Otherwise, we have been safe.

    I have spent the last two months with old friends, in a lovely big home in a quiet and friendly suburban neighborhood. I have been able to keep up my language studies—adding Chinese to the mix—with lessons, conversations, “language parties,” and interactions with other learners every day. I’ve also been able to see my local Maryland friends, either with online calls, or even in person once or twice.

    Despite daily exercise consisting of 60 minutes of walking outside, 30 minutes of yoga alternating with weight training, and 250+ steps per hour, my sedentary life has caused “The Sitter’s Fat Torso.” Damn! I shall have to up my movement game—and perhaps lower my sedentary time and a bit of my food intake—in my next location.

    My wonderful hosts have made me feel comfortable and welcome, and have enabled me to continue with my life in this worldwide emergency. I have a keen awareness of how difficult it is for a family to adjust to an “other” who comes to live with them: all are driven by circumstance, but still must deal with an unbalancing factor to lives already stressed by the ever-changing exigencies of the pandemic. Here, my hosts treated this factor with open communication and grace, for which I shall be ever grateful.

    So, on to the continuation of this “interim of the unknown” in Oaxaca, Mexico. I’ll be back in my apartment from last year, with Paulina and Julian, my hospitable Airbnb hosts. I’ll talk to you soon from there!
    Love to all,

    Here are a few photos, videos, and other “curiosities.” If you leave a comment, please leave your first name as well.
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    I can relate more to this photo than the outdoor ones! I spend all my time indoors now—practicing, cooking, and teaching all my students online. I can relate to your complaints about weight gain, but unlike you, I won't do anything about it. Ha! Your adherence to discipline has served you well during this strange time. Stay well, and I hope we meet again in the post COVID world. —Lorraine [Lorraine]


    I, too, am suffering from pandemic patootie, COVID culo (for the the Italianisti). In fact, I am definitely a super spreader in that area.

    Speak, World

    A great riposte. VERY funny.

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  • Day95

    Three and a Half Months and Counting

    June 17, 2020 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    I hope that this “postcard” finds all you doing well under these extraordinary circumstances. I think of you, and know that I’m way overdue in sending you a blog. I apologize for the delay.

    Although I’m sure that my story of sheltering in place and lockdown is mostly the same as all of you, I have been working hard at being my usual eccentric self. I am still with my sister and brother-in-law in Altadena, California, but in the time of my daily life, I have been living in——

    Thailand, France, Mexico, Japan, Chile, and Italy! My 3-month multi-language challenge, AKA “Fluent in Three Months Polyglot Challenge” is just ending. It has been a remarkably cheerful and exhilarating experience. My original purpose was to resurrect a few of my “better” long-lost languages, i.e., those that I spoke fairly well in the past. As you can imagine, “serial monogamy” doesn’t work well for languages, and continually leaving one language for another over a forty-year period left a string of nine abandoned and forgotten loves.

    Enter POLYGLOTISM! I took Thai, my newest language, and introduced three others: Italian, Japanese, and French for the Challenge. What I had to do was straightforward: prepare a video each week in the language(s) of my choice, and discover how to improve. As an independent learner, I had the moral support of other challengers, but only a few hints regarding what to do.

    I found tutors for Japanese, French, and Italian, kept my group of Thai teachers and language exchange partners, and studied all of these languages every day—50% of my time to Thai, 20% to Japanese and Italian, and 10% to French, which was the “easiest.”

    So , after reading horrific reports about COVID-19 in the newspapers every morning, I went into my study, and for the rest of the day, lived in The World. There’s really too much to tell, but if you’re interested, here are links to what I think are my “most interesting” videos. There are also a few photos below those links which are unrelated to language learning.

    Love to you all! (And if you leave a comment, please be sure to sign your first name.)

    LINKS to Polyglot Videos—which all have SUBTITLES in English!
    1. Day Zero Video: Thai plus Three Abandoned Loves: In Thai, Italian, French and Japanese

    2. Week 8: What I learned from Japan and Thailand —50 years apart: In Japanese and Thai

    3. Week 9:Gardening (in Thai) and a horrible experience in French usage (in French)

    4.Week 10: Speaking 5 languages, switching every 30 seconds, telling my life history in 4 minutes!

    5. Day 90 Videos—15+ minutes conversations with native speakers
    Thai—about our parents’ professions (secrets revealed herein):

    Japanese—did my life and my teacher’s run parallel? (More secrets revealed):

    Italian—what professions did we choose? https://youtu.be/2Gv1OwntKcE

    French—our lives as readers: https://youtu.be/hh5fGtYEA68
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    Beautiful!! Bet the scent is magnificent!! All the roses in Mexico don’t have scent 😕


    You are so lucky to have such a wonderful garden we only have pots on the balcony which Ella has filled with succulents - no veggies!! I’m still restricted to bed for another 3 weeks with my cracked left hip but Pula is keeping me company now - she got hit by a car last Sunday and broke her 2 front legs with multiple lacerations!! So we are both on my bone healing herbal mix! And she is also not allowed to walk on them for 3 weeks! 😖🥺love from all in Mexico Susan ❤️💜🤗😘♥️🇲🇽


    Thank you for the new installment, Dorée! See you in about 3 years, I hope. Stay well. [Lorraine]

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  • This is not Morocco

    March 5, 2020 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    The threat of the corona virus, COVID-19, caused Morocco to close its borders to all incoming flights today—including mine—so I was forced to do what is probably the smartest choice of all at this time: stay put. So, where am I? I left Chiang Mai on March 5, changed planes in Taipei, Taiwan, and landed at Los Angeles International Airport on the afternoon of the same day. From there, I went to my sister’s house in Altadena, California, and that’s where “put” is.

    I spent a week with Michelle and Jim, which was tense with increasingly foreboding news about the spread of the virus and the closing down of borders and public life in country after country. It was also a delightful week—with a last splash of public activity: a marmalade-and-bread-making party with Michelle’s writing students from UCLA (University of California at Los Angeles), a reading at UCLA of young writers and poets, trips to markets and coffee shops, and visits from friends.

    At 3 AM on the morning of March 15th, Morocco shut down its borders, and there went my plans for the next three months. I had been thinking that waiting out the pandemic in Morocco might be interesting, but reality finally gave me the scare I needed to be sensible. So, flights and lodging were cancelled, and I am very lucky to be safe, in a beautiful place, and with my family. The governor of California told all of us who are over 65 to stay at home and cook. (Hmmm...) So now we’re hunkered down together—dog and cat included. I am extremely grateful to my sister and brother-in-law for their kindness.

    As luck would have it, a few weeks ago I decided to join the Fluent in Three Months Challenge as a polyglot challenger. From March 16th on, I shall be trying to improve my Thai, French, and Italian—with servings of Spanish and Japanese on the side. Moroccan Arabic will unfortunately have to wait.

    I hope all of you are keeping safe. Do stay in touch. If you leave a comment here on this blog, please leave your first name. Love to you all, Dorée
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    I'm glad you posted this! I've been wondering about you lately, and I'm glad you're safe. —Lorraine


    So glad you landed in a place with family- Lynne


    Glad to know yo are safe with family. We are very worried, as we come into the extremely high risk categories on all counts. Not only that, but work for free lance musicians will be extremely bleak for Ian, as things close. On a beautiful sunny day it seems almost impossible that things have come to such a pass. I'm in London at the moment getting ready to go for a check up at Guys. Let's hope that there aren't too many of those and I can retreat to Suffolk. Love to you and your family. Keep safe! Rosemary

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  • Day262

    Ayutthaya Redux

    February 18, 2020 in Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    I decided to return to the ancient capital of Ayutthaya, almost a year after my first visit. (See this site, the trip “Thailand Challenge,” footprint “My Heart Remains in Ayutthaya.”) I wanted to stay at my former Airbnb property, with Nick, the brilliant cook, and Tom, her Russian husband, and Thai language expert—to catch up, get ideas for my studies, and roam around in a relaxed manner.

    I enjoyed biking to the beautiful ruins again, mourning the destruction of what must have been a sumptuous capital. Those awful Burmese—they just wouldn’t stop invading and conquering kingdoms in Thailand—Sukhothai, Lanna, Ayutthaya.

    There are two National Museums in Ayutthaya. This year I went to the smaller of the two, which features a very precious collection of antiquities donated by Mr. Praya Botan Rajatanin, housed in what was formally a residence for royalty traveling to Ayutthaya in the late 19th century. I enjoyed it, as it was a very understated royal residence, as such things go, and the collection of Buddhist statues, religious relics, and other historical items was small and well-chosen.

    I was told by Tom to go visit the Phananchoen Temple, in the southeast corner of the historic area—a Chinese temple with an enormous gold Buddha and an excellent library of ancient Buddhist texts. It took me two days to find it, as I let myself be led astray to walk wherever my curiosity led me, but finally, there I was. Yes, indeed there was a truly giant Buddha, shining in gold, and very impressive. But where was the library? I asked four people, then a fifth and a sixth—but no one knew. Finally a kind monk visiting from Bangkok asked someone for me, and the answer was, “It’s under repair,” and that was the end of that. But not quite. The monk sent me an article and a YouTube clip showing the demise of the library in a terrible fire in April, 2012. The news was barely mentioned at the time, and now seems completely forgotten. An unimaginable tragedy. Here is link to the video of the fire: https://youtu.be/pighMrD9UAg

    Ayutthaya offered me many opportunities to really practice my Thai. I took my breakfasts and dinners at Tom and Nick’s restaurant, and Tom kindly steered some of his regular Thai customers to my table to sit down and have a chat! And of course my street shenanigans never stopped. All in all, it was a very very pleasant stay.

    I was horrified when my plane descended into the black smoke and pollution covering Chiang Mai, but hey! I was home, and glad to get back to my routine.

    I hope you like the pictures, and please remember to sign your first name if you leave a comment.
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    Glad you had an enjoyable break - looking forward to the next exiting episode! Ian is in America with ASMF and I am helping babysit! . Love Rosemary


    How wonderful that you continue to enjoy your "retirement". You inspire me to continue following my idea of "retirement" too. I'm finishing up the last two days of publishing an article each day of February to celebrate a different trailblazer or changemaker for Black History Month. It took longer than I expected for the research and information-gathering since I was set on choosing people who aren't the well-known ones that are rolled out every year as the achievers and notables. It was my form of traveling since I was going through history and many life adventures of some curious, high achieving, and brave folks. After tomorrow, I'll be back to planning my online course. Sending love and hugs, Flora


    Those are some burly turtles! Love the cat. --Michelle

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  • Day254

    Chainat? Why not?

    February 10, 2020 in Thailand ⋅ 🌙 30 °C

    Although I’m on a perpetual vacation called “Retirement,” I decided that before leaving Thailand this year, I really needed a vacation from Chiang Mai and my 6-month-long study regimen there. So I looked carefully at the central region of Thailand where the standard Thai dialect is spoken, and found a small city that is really not famous for anything. Why? Because I didn’t want to run into tourists and other foreigners—to be in the “real” THAILAND—and just speak Thai.

    I flew to the huge domestic airport in Bangkok, Dom Mueang, took a bus to the northern bus terminal, Mochit, and from there rode for four hours to Chainat, capital of the province of Chainat. It is an ancient place, having more success in beating off the Burmese invaders in the Ayutthaya Period than Ayutthaya itself (13th and 14th centuries) , but now is unfortunately very low in the United Nations Human Development Program for Thailand: 75th out of 77 provinces—yikes! However, for me it ranks very highly because of sparse population, MUCH cleaner air, very friendly and hospitable people, and much bird life.

    I went on my first day to see the town’s big feature, the “Bird Park,” which has a water park , an aquarium, an “Egg Museum,” and a giant aviary, among other features. With my binoculars, I entered the aviary—the only person there. What a strange place! There were dozens of herons perched on the outside netting, looking to get in, while the “residents” of the aviary seemed quite contented to be there, although there were gaping holes in some places where they could leave if they wished. No matter, the entire area attracts bird life, so there were nests in the nearby trees, as well as in the enclosure. I spotted some small “hiiwa,” the giant water lizards (Asian water monitor) of the area, as well as ancient and very large iguanas—definitely brought in from the Americas. At any rate, I have been bereft of wildlife for seven months, so it was an utterly absorbing and fascinating few hours.

    The following day, I went walking—first in the morning around and down to the Chao Phraya River, and then into town—a total of eleven miles—24 kilometers. I walked, I chatted, I looked, I stopped to study Thai—just a normal day of wandering. Except that the temperature heated up to 100 F, 38 C, so as I walked I “showered myself” as is normal in Thailand. (Did you get the “shower myself?” It means with sweat. But oh, that wonderful REAL shower at the end of the day—such a relief!!)

    My last full day was more of the same, but with more studying Thai and striking up conversations with the residents. I am not as enthusiastic about the “cold conversations” as I used to be, as I’m sensitive to the fact that if people are working, I will be bothering them. Yet it is with the unexpected conversations that the real improvisation of speaking, using my vocabulary, listening to peoples’ stories, and getting used to the spoken language occurs. Regrettably, I feel I have gone backward with my speaking, while forward with my reading and writing.

    So, at a café, as I studied my new Thai speaking exercise about anonymous benevolence, I noticed some young college students next to me, so I started a conversation with one of them. She was eighteen, very pretty, very articulate, and encouragingly friendly. When I showed her my current exercise, she said, “If you stop reading that, and only speak with people like me, you will really know Thai.” I fell into an instant depression at hearing that: how could it be that 68-year-old me could speak with 18-year-olds like her? Or with anyone? I’m just a retired person, and everyone is busy. What’s the use? May as well give it all up. Besides, it’s hellishly HOT!

    I continued feeling low, as I walked around the town at high noon, finally finding a secluded place behind a hotel, sitting down in breezy shade to have a nap before my next bout of studying. Before walking home, I went to a large outdoor market, and chatted with vendors, taking pictures. At one stall, a woman started asking me lots of questions—rather like an interrogation: where are you from, why do you speak Thai, how long have you been studying, why did you come here to Chainat, what do you like about it, where are you going next, etc. People gathered around to hear my answers, until I felt like a country preacher. When she finally stopped with the questions, everyone smiled, laughed, and praised me, and I moved on, feeling much better about it all. Another chapter in my Experiment in International Living.

    I hope you enjoy the pictures, and please don’t forget to leave your first name if you write a comment.
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    Fascinating, Dorée! How much longer will you be in Thailand? And what will you do after you leave? —Lorraine


    More great pictures, Dorée. Hope you have fully bounced back after yyyou


    Sorry, mistake - after your depression! Rosemary

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