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At Home in Oaxaca

April 2021 - December 2042
A new era begins! Read more
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  • Speak, WorldAt Home in Oaxaca
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    I Have a New Home!

    April 15, 2021 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Hello Everyone, and welcome back to my Experiment in International Living. After a very long gap in communication, I would like to catch you up.

    As with every single one of us, the pandemic has changed our lives significantly. In
    my case, I have stopped living in different countries for three or more months at a time, and
    have stayed in Oaxaca, Mexico, which is, naturally, still “being abroad.”

    A week ago I returned from a trip to the US—Alexandria, Virginia—to get both of my Pfizer vaccines, see dear friends, take care of my taxes, and initiate a big change in my life. I first arranged with the Mexican Consulate in Washington D.C. to obtain a visa to become a permanent resident in Mexico. To do this, I had to be retired, or over 62 years of age, and prove that I wouldn’t be a financial burden on the country. I was able to receive this visa, and three days after I returned to Oaxaca, on April 9, 2021, I received the crucial card to become a Permanent Resident.

    Jubilation!

    What does this mean? It means that I can do everything that a Mexican can do except vote. (Never mind, I shall continue to do that in the US.) I can work, move about the country, and come and go as I please, internationally. I am an honorary citizen, which I consider a significant honor. I have loved Mexico all my life—its states, its cultures, and above all, Mexicans themselves. Here, I feel that my sentiments are reciprocated fully and warmly. I have indeed “come home.”

    I am in the process of sorting out my life here—mostly doing what I did before my trip to the States. Since I was the polyglot winner of my latest Fluent in 3 Months language challenge, I decided to keep up with my Thai and Chinese studies, as well as to review Japanese, French, and Japanese in casual ways. We don’t know when international travel can safely begin again, and I don’t anticipate it will be as free as it once was for years. So, here’s to my International Life in Oaxaca!
    Here are links to my Fluent in 3 Months “winning” conversations:
    Thai: https://youtu.be/nNGCAM94qNo
    Chinese: https://youtu.be/LI7WGA6kxk0

    There is so much to learn here in Oaxaca, and in Mexico! I need another couple of lifetimes.

    Anyway, love to you all, and please leave your name if you care to leave a message.    Read more

  • Speak, WorldAt Home in Oaxaca

    A Weekend in the Sierra Norte

    May 12, 2022 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Hello Everyone! It’s been 13 months since I wrote my first post in my new home of Oaxaca. I’ve found that International Living takes a lot of psychic energy. It is as different from traveling as listening to violin playing is from actually playing the violin. In other words, I’ve been busy learning how to BE in Mexico. Now I’m ready to write about it.

    I manage my own apartment, first rented as an Airbnb property from hosts Paulina and Julián. In April 2021 I became an actual renter, separate from Airbnb, and have remained so. I now have friends, a team of doctors and a dentist for my every need, markets and shops to patronize, a Mexican bank account, a “Circle of Mexican Literature” which I formed, and most importantly, a dear Mexican pareja named Enrique.

    Enrique and I have been a couple since March 2021. We started traveling together last year. Now, as I restart writing in this blog, I feature our latest excursion to the Sierra Norte, to Ixtlán, about two hours and 400 curves into the mountains from Oaxaca. With us were my great friend Vicky and her daughter Estefanía. I hope you enjoy the photos!    Read more

  • Speak, WorldAt Home in Oaxaca
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    Three Oaxaca Afternoons

    May 26, 2022 in Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Oaxaca and environs have so much variety to offer! I enjoy such rich stimulation—especially with the very low numbers of COVID cases right now. To give you an idea of what there is to do, I highlight three afternoons for you.

    The first, Sunday May 15th, Enrique and I went to the Arts Center in the town of San Augustin, Etla. Etla is a “districto”—county—to the west of the city of Oaxaca, and San Augustin is one of many “municipios”—towns—in that county. The Arts Center is an old textile factory, now housing printing and paper making workshops, as well as two large gallery spaces. We visited the galleries first, and as admittance to the workshops wasn’t allowed, we explored the impressive plantings outside. We lunched in a family home converted to a restaurant, and for dessert we had a conversation with the grandmother about life in San Agustin.

    Two Sundays later on May 23rd, we were back in the Sierra Norte in the hamlet of El Punto for more walking—from 8200 to 6500 feet and back. This was a very slow four-hour hike, in which we examined every bromeliad-covered tree along the way. Before the hike we ate barbequed mutton on black bean-smothered thick corn tortillas, dressed with green, red, and avocado salsas. This was in a 5-table outdoor restaurant with a precipitous mountain view. After the hike we returned to the restaurant, and had “agua de zarzamora,” blackberry juice thinned to a delicious liter of icy fruited water, and a tiny blade of blackberry cheesecake.

    Finally, on May 25, we walked from Enrique’s house to “Cuchillos Aragón,” workshop of Guillermo Aragón, a “metalistero.” This is an invented word, indicating an artist of metal, but he is actually an artist of forging blades for work or decoration: knives, daggers, swords, machetes, scythes, etc. His family goes back to six generations of artisans. Here is a link to a history of their work: https://fahho-mx.translate.goog/los-cuchillos-d….

    There, my treasured Misono professional chef’s knife was re-shaped and sharpened by the master himself. He is also a gentleman of the older generations of Mexican society, “un gran caballero.”

    On the way back, we stopped to admire the Wednesday afternoon “Danzón in the Zócalo.” Danzón is a formal dance originating in Cuba. Perhaps after seeing the video I took, you might want more information! https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Danzón#Mex…

    I do so love living here! And I hope you enjoy the photos which illustrate this description.    Read more

  • Speak, WorldAt Home in Oaxaca
    11

    JANUARY 2023: The Family Pays a Visit

    January 18, 2023 in Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    In my previous blog about my trip to northern Chile, I frequently received remarks like, “How wonderful that you’re traveling again!” This was strange to me, because every single day I’m in Oaxaca, I feel that I’m in the midst of a different kind of “travel:” that of traveling into the depths of a culture and my own soul. This is the fourth time in my life I’ve taken such a trip. The first was 1969-71 in Matsumoto, Japan; the second from 1980-86 in London, England, and the third from 1986-87 in Cairo, Egypt. But now, since August 2020, I’ve been on the journey of a lifetime—combining and using all of the knowledge of my 71 years, and learning utterly new things in depth as well.

    So I have decided to take you along on a monthly blog of this deeper-than-touristic voyage so you can see what it means to me. We’ll start with January.

    My pareja Enrique Suárez Murcio is one of four siblings: oldest brother Marco Antonio, deceased from COVID; older sister Rosalina—“Lina,” and younger brother Rafael. Lina and Rafael came to Oaxaca for the first time since their childhood visits: 36 years later! The purpose was to help out with a legal issue regarding the family home (write your wills NOW, everyone!) but it was also celebratory. After a day in Family Court, we spent the rest of the time enjoying each other’s company in various places. I am thrilled to be in the midst of Family, and equally grateful to be warmly accepted by them.

    The month rounds out with a few other bits and pieces: scenes from Oaxaca, two Oaxacan artists, some street scenes, a Sunday “dry season” outing in the hills to the north of the city, and the stressed-out neighbor’s cat sleeping off his relegation to “decidedly not so important” after the birth of his family’s first child.

    January!    Read more

  • Speak, WorldAt Home in Oaxaca

    FEBRUARY 2023: Outings and Carnival!

    February 28, 2023 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    OUTINGS AND CARNIVAL! FEBRUARY 2023

    First, a moment of memory and affection for my friend and neighbor Roger Bobo. I call him the Jascha Heifetz of tuba players. He also also taught the world through his many distinguished students that the tuba is a beautiful instrument. Please listen!

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1txIgL8-2xY

    We started February with a Sunday excursion to the town of Cuilápam to see the ex-convento there. Twenty years after Spain’s conquest of Mexico in 1521, it is astonishing how many such gargantuan religious edifices were built. (Or maybe not “astonishing,” as the Mesoamerican peoples were forced to tear down their own buildings and use the same stones to build the Spaniards’ religious edifices.)

    At the ex-convent it was not only the day of a marriage, a baptism, and a quinceañera, but also Culiápam’s saint’s day, so there was much action in this ancient place. Enrique and I went for a walk in the surrounding farmed areas, and bought just-harvested black beans and peanuts from a local owner. And as always, there was a delicious meal in the market. Since we arrived late, we were served the last remaining dish: beef “panzita” in a tomato-y broth. It’s the only kind of tripe that Enrique can stomach.

     The following Sunday we went to the town of Ocotlán, home of the artist Rodolfo Morales. We visited the museum which his family’s Foundation is running to display his works in rotation. There are murals of his in churches in the Central Valley of Oaxaca, and in other places as well. Search for “Roberto Morales Ocotlán” for beautiful images. The market was quite a highlight—full of activity, color, noise, and so much to buy!

    Our third outing was to Mitla, which is famous for its Zapotec ruins and beautiful weavings. We saw the ruins first (of course all buildings were devastated by the conquering Spaniards, who forced the rightful owners to destroy their own buildings etc., etc.) Then we our market lunch, and a fascinating conversation with our hostess. She lived and worked as far north as Baja California, but made her way home south to Oaxaca twenty-odd years later. Finally, we bought lovely tablecloth “clothing” for Enrique’s and my dining tables.

     Carnival! It is a time for happy pre-Lenten celebrations, with many many devils. The highlight was a parade of the best of carnival from neighboring villages here in the Valle Central de Oaxaca.

    And oh! Of course there was Valentine’s Day.

    Please enjoy the photos.    Read more

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