2 people, 6 days, 34 kilos, 68 kilometres もっと詳しく
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  • 日5

    Day Five - Kia Ora to Bert Nichols

    4月19日, オーストラリア ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    Last night's hint of clear skies rang true this morning and we applauded the arrival of another beautiful day. Cathedral Mountain was glistening in the dawn light, our packs/food were free of mouse holes, and we knew today was Waterfall Day - what a treat.

    Today's walk is another fairly short one, made longer, however, with the addition of the short side trips to see the falls. While I was set on doing these, we also had An Issue. Staying at Kia Ora (the hut we were departing from this morning) was a group of 5 stragglers that belonged to the collection of walkers who set out from Cradle the day before our group. Roughly 32 walkers depart each day, and mostly stay together the entire week, unless some people double up some days or take a rest day. This is allowed, as there is no time limit on when you have to end your walk. I appreciate this flexibility, HOWEVER. What it also means, unavoidably, is that you may arrive at a hut to find a number of beds already taken, forcing members of the arriving group to go without. Now, luckily, between the number of beds at Kia Ora and the number of our group who chose to camp anyway, no one went without. Our concern came for the night ahead of us, which was to be spent at Bert Nichols Hut, an older hut that has less beds (24), while our group numbered 29 + these 5 stragglers. Audience, I can humbly tell you that Dylan and I would ROT before we handed up beds to these people. Once more, the race was on.

    In all seriousness, we do think PWS would be wise to implement a fairness system addressing this. A solution, should they call on me for consultation, could be as follows. Walkers may stray from the traditional daily schedule as they wish, however, if they are to spend a night at a hut that isn't the traditionally scheduled hut for that night of their trip, they must camp. This still allows for freedom and flexibility, but doesn't rob anyone of a bed who is simply doing the walk as prescribed. The group of 5 in question were having a rest day at Kia Ora (no I was NOT eavesdropping) and so had already got their night indoors - if you wanna stay another, go outside. I am known for my kindness.

    Anyway, we weren't too worried, as we'd established ourselves by this point to be some of the fastest walkers, and if it came to fisticuffs, I was ready. Off we went.

    The falls today were a trio, D'Alton, Fergusson, and Hartnett. The first two were coupled together, reached by descending like a mountain goat down a slope for about 1km, where the path branched off, D'Alton to the left and Fergusson to the right. I can confidently say that D'Alton is one of the COOLEST WATERFALLS I've ever seen. Dylan practically had to drag me away from the cliff edge from where we stood to view it, muttering "okay danger queen, that's enough" as I jumped and jived with joy. Scale: immense. Water: thundering. Rock pools: aplenty. Forest mermaids: hiding I'm sure. I was torn between throwing myself down into it and selling my soul to a tree sprite so I could live there forever as its mystical and mossy guardian. But alas, we had to go.

    Loving some punishment, we sped our way back up the slope, heads down poles out, hiking with a vengeance back up to the main track. Continuing on, we came across another turn off, for Hartnett. Oh. I had forgotten this one, I thought we had seen them all back down the previous track. Hm. While I very much wished to go bananas over another stream of water, Dylan pointed out that the 5 packs strewn around the track junction indicated that The Stragglers were down there. This was our chance. With some regret involved, we soldiered on. Next time Hartnett, next time.
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  • 日5

    Bert Nichols Hut

    4月19日, オーストラリア ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    Readers, we beat The Stragglers. We were, in fact, the very first ones here. Thank you, thank you, I know.

    We weren't sure what to expect at this hut, it being one of the older ones, and therefore not likely to follow the layout we've gotten used to. It turned out to be one of our favourites. A great portion of this, in hindsight, was simply the weather we had here. The couple of other days we've spent hanging around the huts after short walk legs have been somewhat boring. Cold and rainy outside, and not much space or comfort inside. Yes I UNDERSTAND why they don't provide couches or simply cushions, but would've loved one. Anyway, here we received such sunshine and warmth that it turned our hut experience into something completely new and wonderful. The hour or so I spent laying face down outside on the sunny helipad was a joy I can only imagine rivals how lizards feel on rocks. It was sublime. I couldn't believe the luxury of warmth on my body and birdsong in my ears.

    The joy continued as, bolstered by the sunlight, we partook in some of the only socialising we did on the trip (introverts unite), as we joined a group sitting around together out on one of the wooden tent platforms. Soaking up the sunshine together, laying around like cats, we discussed all the various nicknames we've each bestowed upon each other; what our packs weighed; what we wished we'd brought (mainly more snacks); and what the first thing we were looking forward to doing was when we finished. Everyone had great curiosity about what it was the Elite Athletes did in their personal lives to achieve this status. Dylan got the great satisfaction of being able to simply say he was a runner, to much oohs, ahhs, general understanding and head nodding. Anyone who also plays roller derby and has had to explain that fact to someone will intuitively understand that I was not afforded the same response. It was accepted however, with less enthusiastic and slightly confused head nodding. Hannah, of The Girls, shared her lollies and I even ended up being the recipient of a snack sized Picnic bar, to my obscene delight. It was truly lovely (the socialising, not just the chocolate) and I'm very glad we joined in.

    We eventually tucked ourselves into bed on the large communal bunk platforms (imagine a ground platform and then one above it, both able to fit about 8 people across). Blessedly, Dylan and I were the only people on our top platform, and there were only two people below us on the bottom. Having successfully avoided being sardines (ALWAYS go for the most furthest away room) we were quite chuffed at being able to snuggle up next to each other for night. Snuggling is actually impossible when your sleeping mats slide away from under you and you're in separate sleeping bags, but it was nice in spirit.

    We awoke at 5am, and were on the way by 6am - hoofing it through to catch the 9.30am ferry from Narcissus Hut (we'd skip staying the night here) back to Lake St Clair. This was a lightly stressful realisation we'd come to partway through the trip: I'd booked the ferry (for some unknown reason) too early on our last day. Therefore, we either had to double up and do our last two days together, staying at Narcissus instead of Bert Nichols so we would already be there for the ferry the next morning, or, as we decided on, get up early enough to complete the walk there in time.

    This all worked out splendidly and we made it. Back at Lake St Clair though, guess who found out that it wasn't actually 9.30am SATURDAY she'd booked the ferry (which had been the confusing factor, why had I done that and not given us enough time??) but 9.30am Sunday, which would've allowed us time to complete the last walk at leisure and stay the night at Narcissus Hut......... Not me, that's for sure.
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  • 日6

    Day Six - Bert Nichols to Lake St Clair

    4月20日, オーストラリア ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Imagine the joy, when, after just finally drifting off into proper sleep for the night around 4am, our alarm (a near silent buzz buzz from Dylan's watch, we're not animals) went off. 5am. My favourite time to get up.

    In all fairness, this was the only morning of the trip that getting out of 'bed' was hard. All other mornings we've happily sprung up for a trip to the loo as soon as even a hint of daylight made it through the window. I think it was the distinct lack of any light at all that made this one a bit grating. Still, we had business to attend to.

    With levels of efficiency that would've got us hired by a Grand Prix pit crew, we readied ourselves for the day ahead and stowed away our gear. Off we went into the dark, guided by head torches and the ever-nearing promise of a burger.

    The walk today was dull. No views, STILL no wombats (I'd like to have a word to someone about this), and the mud/tree roots had far overstayed their welcome at this point. I had enjoyed neither breakfast NOR coffee, and, crucially, had no lollies left to munch on from my hip pocket. Morale was low. The Stumbles, Mumbles, and Grumbles we'd been warned about started to appear, as, according to our watch distance, we should be there by now - where the F is this hut???

    Spirits were boosted (mine, anyway) at the arrival of the suspension bridge. As loved ones will know, anything I can venture out onto and bounce around on above thin air is a great time for me. Also, we knew from this point that Narcissus was not far away.

    We got there, quickly got very cold, and sat around for a torturous snack-less half hour before it was time for the ferry. The ferry ride ended up being markedly beautiful, clear skies, sparkling water, and grand mountains surrounding us on every side. My mind was firmly, single-mindedly, resolutely, fixed on a shower and a burger at this point though, and so these regal vistas barely registered. Sorry mountains.

    We arrived, and after some stern words to the man at the lodge desk who claimed I had not paid for the ferry booking and now, in fact, needed to (please sir kindly check through your receipt book and CLEARLY FIND MINE), we made a frenzied beeline to the showers.

    I simply cannot say enough about this shower. Did I see God, yes, yes I did. Did it change my life, undoubtedly. Did I literally laugh out loud in joy for its entire 5 minute duration, I think I did, yes. What a fucking blessing hot water can be. I emerged truly euphoric, wrapped up in clean cozy clothes that we had left ourselves in the car.

    Sitting in the lodge eating area, I stumbled my way through the onslaught of notifications phone reception had afforded me, and manically drained an excellent strong flat white. Then, it was time. The prophecy unfolded before us. Heavens gates swung open. The burgers had arrived.

    The euphoria awakened earlier by the shower was back with gusto, I could barely chew and swallow through the drooling, dazed smile that was plastered on my face. It was absolutely incredible.

    After the haze lifted enough for me to gain control of my motor functions, we strolled down to the lake's edge. We sat in the sun, we got pictures at the sign, we got our passes stamped at the visitor centre like children, we treated ourselves to dessert, and we met up with The Girls, who had been on the next ferry after us, and all bid each other friendly goodbyes.

    Finally, we got in the car. A journey come to an end. How strange it felt. How bizarre to suddenly be ripping kilometres away at, seemingly, the speed of light. After a long journey home, we arrived, unpacked our bags, and, as any sane person would do, ordered pizza and coke.
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  • 日12

    Wrap it up

    4月26日, オーストラリア ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    We leave you with a cute pic of two little grubs; happy, bundled, and very glad to have completed this adventure. Thank you for reading along, mwah xoxo