Off to London

April 2019
After 3 months in Victoria, I'm headed for a short stay in London for a few days to visit the sights and eat some Indian food. Read more
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  • Getting ready for my trip to London

    April 17, 2019 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    While I can say I have visited London before, it was on a 7-hour layover in 1991 on my way back from Kenya. It was mostly a blur. This time I will have 4 days to see the sights. It is the Easter weekend so there will be lots to see and do. I've booked my tickets to Kensington Palace, the Tate Modern museum, the Tower of London among other things. I'm also planning on using bikeshare to get to Buckingham Palace! Maybe I'll see the Queen. Maybe Harry and Meghan will have their baby while I'm there! Can't wait.Read more

  • Day 2

    Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens

    April 19, 2019 in England ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    What a glorious day! I started out in my nice hotel that boasts a kitchenette and free phone! No, I mean an honest to God Smartphone that I can take with me for navigation, web searches, and to make international calls all gratis! I’ve never heard of that! After my not too bad overnight flight, I took the non-express train (UnderGround) in from the airport. The subway cars are so tiny. I couldn’t really stand in the middle with my bag without bumping into someone’s knees. The system works really well, but I have to say, the schematic transit map they have is less than useless. It doesn’t have any sense of geography and scale. It was like that when I lived in New York - I knew which stops came next but not where they actually were located in relation to one another. Anyhow, I digress.

    My hotel sits a couple of convenient blocks north of Hyde Park, so I walked to visit Kensington Palace. The gardens were exquisite. They have 50 gardeners to keep the place magnificent. I took a tour that was entertaining and quite informative on the history of the Stuart and Hanover families who have lived there since the late 1700s. William and Kate and their three children live there now as had Harry and Meghan until just recently. Princess Diana’s hand and fashion were highlighted. While it is a “palace” with all the pomp and tradition that comes with that word, I was not overwhelmed by the public rooms. The oak staircase leading to the Queen’s quarters were beautiful but spoke more of showing off (look how much expensive oak we can waste on a staircase) instead of fine art. Ceilings were painted to look like they were elaborately carved domes but in reality are an optical illusion. Interesting. Few of the furniture or decorative pieces used (or even substituted) were displayed.

    But oh, the tiaras. Brazil nut-sized emeralds adorned earrings, necklace and tiara. A spectacular show of wealth and jewelry making. Three displayed in a large glass case jiggled every time someone walked about the room. It is an old house.

    Hyde Park feels like New York’s Central Park with strolling locals, their families, joggers, tourists, lovers holding hands, and young people gathering in clumps on the grass. Song birds sang strong and clear doing their best to entertain. I don’t have a bird book (or app) that covers London so I’ve been taking pictures for later identification. The Robin doesn’t much look like an American Robin. I loved the unmanicured look of the fields and trees knowing that it was a deliberate and exacting plan to get it to look this way.

    I went in search of the Princess Diana Memorial Fountain. What a joyful thing it is! People are encouraged to wade and splash and have fun in the water. It was such a contrast to the formal Kensington Gardens. I loved them both.

    Two small spaces, theSpencer Gallery and the Spencer Sackler Gallery, host installations and modern art. Like much of modern art, I can’t say why it moves me when it does or doesn’t. I just know that when I come away feeling that the artist captured a spirit and transmitted that to me - that is the essence of art.

    I capped off the day with a delicious Indian restaurant called Dishoom. It is wildly popular and for good reason. I had one lamb chop that was deeply spiced and cooked just right, chicken tikka - no sauce to hide the tandoori flavors, a bowl of green veggies in chili and lime, and their signature black daal dish. I couldn’t finish so I have some for another day, if I don’t continue to eat my way through London.

    I made it to nearly 10pm London time. Trying to beat jet lag.
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  • Day 3

    More Sightseeing, Some by Accident

    April 20, 2019 in England ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Started early to St. Paul’s Cathedral. I climbed to the top which made the day end with 27 flights of stairs on my iPhone app. Legs are protesting. The Cathedral was allowed to include styles from all around Europe - France and Italy in particular - which made this Non-Catholic church incredibly beautiful.

    One of the best parts was that they don’t allow photos inside. It made the experience completely different. Everyone could focus and look instead of searching for that great shot. In the museums, people run around taking photos and not even looking at the work.

    I walked across the Thames on the pedestrian bridge to the Tate Modern. Pretty cool. Unfortunately, my ticket for the Van Gogh exhibition was at the Tate Britain. I hopped on the riverboat bus/ferry with its amazing city views.

    Van Gogh paintings sound a deep and emotional response in me. The energy, color, texture, enervates my spirit. The exhibit was packed, but I was able to absorb it. I found a yellow Van Gogh tote bag to replace my Rome leather knock-off bag which is falling apart. Now I can carry his painting around with me every day.

    After the museum, I needed to stretch my legs so I walked over to the House of Parliament and bumped into the climate change demonstration - one of the five sites they have across London. It was peaceful with lots of police and people who have glued themselves to the pavement. The woman I spoke with seemed determined and somewhat hopeful that they could make a difference.

    I took the Underground to a gin tasting place that was sadly closed even though the website said they would be opened. Instead I went to a bar around the corner from my hotel that had decent reviews. I at least wanted to get a couple of G&Ts on my London journey. Mission Accomplished! Good tonic. Delicious gin. Although Aviation in Portland is as good. Too bad the bar I started at served me a raw burger. It had a gorgeously seared outside and lukewarm inside. It was free. I went to another spot nearby and had another yummy drink. I’ll need to continue my gin exploration.
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  • Day 4

    British Museum, National Galleries plus

    April 21, 2019 in England ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    It was a jam-packed and fun- filled day. Did you know that London still has telephone booths? I like that. I got to the famous British Museum and took their highlights (audio) tour. The Rosetta Stone is located just inside. I honestly didn’t understand what the big deal was about the stone. I didn’t realized it had the same text in a language that was already known/understood as the hieroglyphics written above it. Aha!

    As I walked around the ruins and artifacts, I annoyingly saw them as, “hey, look what the British Empire stole from around the globe”. Chunks of the Parthenon, Egyptian mummies (which creep me out - they are dead people who thought that they would not be dug up and on display), Chinese pottery (how on earth did these delicate items survive?), Buddhist statutes, a feast of history, culture and symbology. After two hours of wandering around, I was full up.

    I walked to Covent Gardens. Mr. Sunny has been working overtime here so the market was bustling with tons of people. It was fun. It is nice to be here on a holiday weekend. It brings out the crowds but it’s fun to see everyone out enjoying their city.

    Next stop was the National Portrait Gallery. The last 70 years of portraits present such a hodgepodge of people who have influenced British society, politics and culture. Elton John, Twiggy, Nelson Mandela as a middle-aged man, Winston Churchill destroyed his official portrait so they only had a study, Margaret Thatcher, and of course, Queen Elizabeth with one of her corgis were all there. The rest of the halls were all white men. And since I’m not well schooled in many British dignitaries, I skipped them.

    I passed by the Royal Opera House and flirted with getting a ticket but I just couldn’t do it - I’m just a bit too jet lagged. Trafalgar Square was my next stop. A giant stone square with fountains and lots of statues. I went in to the National Gallery right on the square. Their highlights audio tour included 80 paintings - mercifully a good 20 of them were not on display. I dutifully went to all of them and started with the exquisite art pieces from the 13th, 14th and 15th centuries. I find that I love the learning as much as the looking. I was chased out at 5:30pm.

    A cozy French restaurant drew me in for a three course meal and a glass of Cote du Rhône. The creme caramel was a creamy, sweet end to my day.

    I’m tired.
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  • Day 5

    Biking Around to the Sights

    April 22, 2019 in England ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

    I love biking around a new city. Of course they have bike share: Santander. The station nearest had two bikes but both were broken. This was how it was going to be with me transportation-wise for the day. Got on at another station and pedaled through Hyde Park. It was beautiful. As I rode into the park, lo and behold, there were about 50 nattily uniformed men on horseback - the Queen’s horses, to be exact. They were out for a spin for the birthday celebration (even though it was yesterday). She’s the Queen! She can declare any day she wants to celebrate.

    My plan was to ride by Buckingham Palace. There were huge crowds waiting for the changing of the guard, I guess. I got a great view of the palace from my bicycle seat right in the middle of the street.

    From here I needed to get over to Westminster Abbey. Nothing here is a grid. I made a zillion wrong turns and streets might just decide to call themselves something entirely different in the next block or just not go through. I made it in time to stand in a long but quick line to get in.

    What a beautiful church. It was busy but with a ticket, I went up to the gallery which gave me a view of things from above away from the crowds.

    I usually feel a little weird in a church. It isn’t my place, and I can’t imagine how I would feel if thousands of people who aren’t Jewish stomped through my synagogue. I enjoyed it anyway - all the tombs and palace intrigue.

    I had my lunch (and Victoria sponge cake with strawberries and cream filling) in a dungeon of a spot under the Abbey.

    Out in the warm and sunny day (again) I picked up another bike and rode along the bike superhighway (that’s what the call it) to the Tower of London and the Crown Jewels.

    Again, so much history dating back to the dark ages and times when Oliver Cromwell destroyed the monarchy and all its trapping. Eleven years later, the royal family was back in business.

    As it is the very beginning of or really before tourism season, it felt like the staff most places still had their cheerful spirit and patience. I was thankful that I got to ask my stupid questions without getting “the face”.

    At 5:30pm I decided I might take the boat part of the way back before hopping on the train. The boat was a bit of a wait so I said I would take the Underground. I was told the city uses “bank holidays” to fix things so my train option was out. I decided to get in one more bike ride.

    What a great idea. The streets were mostly deserted of cars and there were so many families and friends out along the water and in the parks. The flowers and the ponds and birds. What a great way to end the day and a whirlwind four days of London.
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