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  • Day 13

    San Juan de Ortega to Burgos

    May 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Burgos is a large and thriving city and at the core of the city is a a medieval town and the walls enclose vibrant tourism, one of the largest cathedrals in Spain. Burgos is also well known for a museum of human evolution. About 1/3 of the way to Burgos we passed the nearby town of Atapuerca which has been a town since 750 when it was a small Christian settlement and in the 13th century became an important military town and also a town to serve pilgrims. It is in Atapuerca where archeological remains of the Atapuercan civilization from 1.2 million years ago have been discovered and excavated.

    Today's 27 km walk was still a bit cool, and I kept my long sleeves and raincoat and long pants on most of the day. But it was not raining, but a bit windy. But all in a good day for walking. The first 13 km of the walk were largely flat except for a small climb and descent (my definition of small is changing). The later 13 km were largely entering the greater limits of Burgos, so passing along an airport, freeways, industrial areas. About 10 km before reaching the centre of the city and the medieval walls where my hotel is located, we walked mostly along a roadway through residential areas and the closer we got to the inner medieval city, the more robust the tourism with shopping, cafes, etc.

    Today, I walked mostly with Theresa ( also travelling alone and from Toronto). We joined here and there, Bernadette, Victoria and Deanna ( Australian), and then came into the city proper with Sherri and Robert (Summerland, BC)...It was nice to have company the majority of today's walk since navigating the city was a bit more challenging.

    The number of pilgrims has noticeably decreased and this may be due to the fact that this segment of the Camino (particularly the last 3 days), there has been more or less roadways, busy intersections to cross, not consistently beautiful and quiet country side. Although, even in some of the earlier days when the Camino is in the countryside, very often the nearby motorway can be seen or heard. It is not a surprise that the trek for the pilgrims of the 13th century passed through what are now important towns and cities, and, of course, a network of roads to connect them all.

    I am happy to report that my feet are holding up ok..the duct tape seems to be working and my feet are at least not getting worse, and walking today at a good pace and not limping along is refreshing. I have a full day in Burgos tomorrow to do some sightseeing. In fact, I am in this hotel for 3 nights in a row! Tonight because I walked here, tomorrow is a rest day, and the third night, I will have walked away from Burgos but will be taxied back to this city to stay the night...the accommodation problem is ongoing. I am very thankful to have a bed every night without worry.

    The Camino for me is beginning to take on a life of its own for me now. I unpack, and pack again with ease at each hotel. I have a method of organizing my back pack. I am comfortable finding what I need in these towns and cities. I am comfortable each morning waking up knowing that I have 25km or so ahead of me, but it no longer feels unmanageable. I am just shy of two weeks on the trail and have covered approximately 230 km. When before this seemed epic, now it feels comfortable and normal. Of course, meeting new friends, having conversations and adapting to the way of life on the Camino, sharing our aches and pains and later a glass or two or three of wine, the Camino is beginning to feel like the Camino I am came here for.

    But I still do miss you all! Love seeing pictures from home. Don't forget to send them.
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