Villavante to Astorga

Astorga marks the end of the meseta and entry in Galicia, a more mountainous and varied terrain. Three of the highest peaks on the Camino are in this third section, also often considered an emotional challenge for on this section, as we climb and descent pilgrims become more able to leave behind that which has inhibited the spiritual rewards of the Camino.

Near the village of Hospital de Orbigo we cross a bridge Puente del Paso Honroso with its 19 arches. In 1434 Knight Don Suero over a period of two weeks defeated 300 opponents during the jousting festival. Having been scorned in love, he announced a jousting tournament, and having broken the lances of 300 opponents, he announced that he was freed from the burden of unrequited love and then completed the Camino Santiago to be finally and forever released from the bonds of love.

Astorga, about 12 km from this famous bridge and jousting tournament, is actually built on the top of a Roman one. I have attached a picture of a section of the old Roman town that is displayed for public viewing. It is believed to be in part the residence of a prosperous person because there is a private roman bath in the dwelling.

Astorga is also famous for its chocolate. In fact, there is a whole museum devoted to the history of chocolate making in Spain. When I walked in my hotel room, little bite sized peices of chocolate were waiting!

Astorga also marks the part where Camino Frances ( the one that I am travelling) and Via de la Plata Camino intersect each on the final stretch to Santiago. The Via de la Plata originates in the south of Spain. In the 12th century, Astorga had 21 pilgrim hospices!

The best part of the day, though, was actually about 5 km outside of Astorga where after a climb to a peak, a rest stop has been established, and it appears to be operated through the generosity of others. A young man appeared to be in charge and laid out on the tables were a selection of breads, fruit, meat and cheese, some eggs, jars of jams and jellies. Pilgrims were welcomed to this spot to enjoy a bit of food and companionship. Also on this site were a few hammocks, rough beds in lean to, shelters for pilgrims who find themselves stopping here overnight. It appeared to be completely operated on donations, as pilgrims could leave a donation on the table, but also presumably grocery shops donated flats of fruit etc. Diana and I stopped here for a bit, where Diana took a candid picture of me eating an apricot. I am actually quite content eating my apricot even if I do look a bit out of sorts!

There have been a few of these resting places along the way, but this one was remarkable, and, I feel, really is a testament to what the Camino is, not a hike, not a holiday, but a coming together of people and their motivations, their courage, their troubles and their faith.Read more